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View Full Version : Pigmented (Micro/Semi-Aniline) - How to Remove Urine from Semi-Aniline Leather Cushions?



Jermaine
01-11-2010, 11:48 AM
Inside foam has already been cleaned & sanitized.


#1
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10002.jpg


#2
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10003.jpg


#3
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10004.jpg


#4
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10005.jpg


#5
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10008.jpg

Roger Koh
01-11-2010, 01:13 PM
Like to see the reverse side of the stain:

Leather Identification comes first - to confirm whether it's Aniline, Semi-Aniline or Pigmented to prepare the posibility of refinishing if necessary.

And also to know the depth of penetration.

It is also much easier to work from the reverse side to reduce physical damages to the leather finishes.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

Jermaine
01-11-2010, 01:30 PM
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10012.jpg

http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/1-12-10013.jpg

Roger Koh
01-11-2010, 04:26 PM
Leather Identification:

This is an aniline dye-through leather.

It could be micro-pigmented follows with micro-topcoat or it could be just be a standard aniline.

Picture #4 convinces me that this is more likely be a standard aniline because of the depth-of-hue due to topcoat transparency more than the micro-pigment opacity.


Suppleness Test:

Is the urine stain area stiffer than the surrounding?



Refinishing System:

So standby refinishing system for this leather type is standard aniline and product require would be Aniline T’parent-27 plus Topcoat Aniline-79G.

When we decontaminate the leather with delicate care we may save the redyeing process, but Topcoating might be necessary as the existing topcoat may have to shave off due to deterioration.

We will like to decontaminate the leather structure and reactivate the dyestuff at the same time by the hydrating process with Hydrator-3.3.


Sanitize Vs Sterilize:

Use a bactericide to kill off the existing bacteria from the cushion too – with d’Bacteria-3.7.


Visual Inspection:

The white residue you see on picture #4 is probably the leach out “Fatliquor” (an indication of diminishing fatliquor as the alkaline of the stain breaks bond between the protein fiber and the fatliquor molecule).

The black residue you see on picture #5 is probably the leach out “Chrome-Tanning Agent” (a sign of leather denaturing from the urine turning alkaline).


pH Sensitivity:

The Alkalinity from the urine contamination slowly revert the protein fiber from cationic (+) to anionic (-). As all the leather constituents (fatliquor, tanning agent, and preservatives) are anionic too - the principle of "like poles repels" works against the leather. The main concern is to work on the acid side of the pH scale to recharge the protein fiber cationic again to save the leather from further denaturing.



The process of Urine Decontamination:

Step 1.
To remove the Protein component of the urine stain:
Spray d’Protein-11.0 to saturate through the leather from both sides.
Use detail leatherBrush-1 on the finished side agitates and extract.
Use detail suedeBrush-3 on the suede side agitates and rag extract.
Follows with hand-scudding with a plastic card and wet vacuum off the contamination from the suede side avoid spreading it.

Step 2.
To neutralize the ammonia and alkaline phosphorus salt found in urine from “reverse-tanning” the leather:
Spray d’Urine-2.2 and follows through as in Step 1.

Step 3.
Optional Deodorizing the Obnoxious Odors:
Spray d’Odor-4.5 on both side and extract accordingly.

Step 4.
To clean off all residues with Cleaner-3.8 accordingly.

Step 5
To rinse off all residue with Rinse-3.0 accordingly and check for a squeaky feel (indicates that the leather is normal).

Step 6
If the surface on both sides still feels sticky or slimy, step 2 was not adequate.
Apply Acidifier-2.0 and rinse until the leather on both sides returns to a healthy squeaky feel.

Step 7
To Hydrate:
Soak the leather wet from the reverse side and make sure the finished side is evenly wet out.
Wrapped it up with plastic sheet to prevent evaporation and dwell over night.
This process is to help reactivate the dyestuff and moves the suspended contamination to resurface through the wicking process.
An additional benefit is to trap the contamination off the leather surface by having a layer of tissue paper especially to trap the urine urea chrome (color).
The now leather finishes has to be separate by absorbent white towels and additional tissue skin tight if possible directly on the stain areas.
Caution as not to cause lamination between the finish sides of the leather.

Step 8
After the overnight dwell remove the plastic sheet and check the tissue paper (picture please) to see the wicking effect.
Check the inside tissue paper and towel too.

Step 9
Replace the inside towel and leave for slow natural drying out through the suede side.

Step 10
When the suede side is crispy dry – erase with nubuck Eraser-5 follows with suede Brush-3.

Step 11
Check the leather finish side – what we really want to see is that the stain is gone!

Maybe by now you should have some pictures to show us the progress before instruction.

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®

Jermaine
02-05-2010, 11:16 AM
These are pictures after hydrating.
1.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10037.jpg
2.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10038.jpg
3.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10039.jpg

Using nubuck eraser.
4.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10062.jpg

Using suede brush.
5.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10063.jpg

Leather looks, feels, & smells good. What steps should be done to finish this job?
6.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10040.jpg
7.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10041.jpg
8.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10042.jpg
9.
http://i876.photobucket.com/albums/ab324/jermaine_050/2-5-10043.jpg

Roger Koh
02-06-2010, 03:03 PM
Leather looks, feels, & smells good. What steps should be done to finish this job?
6.



What do you think need to be done to make it better?

Is the urine stain all gone?

Can you detect any urine smell?

Is the stain area as supple as the non-urine affected areas?

Does the d’Protein-11.0 > d'Urine-2.1 > works to your satisfaction?

Did you sterilize with d’Bacteria-3.7?

Are the stain area and the non-stain area now even out and color looks natural?

Is the topcoat damaged?

Have you Fatliquor it after Hydrating?

Did you apply Leather Scent-B?

Are you satisfied with what you have accomplished?

Roger Koh
Leather Doctor®