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Eqgoddess
03-31-2019, 09:08 AM
The pad is not used. But a curious puppy managed to bite off a hunk of the wool. (See first pic). I've traced the missing piece, found color to match and now have to attach (pic2).
I would imagine I can use leather glue cement (I have Fiebings) but not sure if I should or can stitch. Since bottom is finished (pic3).
I normally work in stirrup leathers, etc. So straight leather work, but never in shearling.
Help

Bonnie Wnenkowski
Equine Goddesd

Roger Koh
03-31-2019, 12:13 PM
>>> I would imagine I can use leather glue cement (I have Fiebings)

Tips - Caution!
1- Any glue that contains solvent will dry up the leather, thus producing a stiffer repair.
2- Stiffness with constant flexing will develop cracks.
3- Glue content has the tendency to age, and loose its bonds.

Working with Leather Doctor Bond-3D
1- Bond-3D is a water-based glue, that does not dries up leather fatliquor (fat and oil).
2- Does not dry up stiff but remains soft and flexible.
3- Becomes part of leather when dry.


>>> but not sure if I should or can stitch. Since bottom is finished (pic3).

Stitching create weak potential points for rips and tears when stitching becomes too closed, when too far apart create opening and buckles from side views. Working with Bond-3D ensures no gapping alone the edges. Edging may be further work with Bond-7A to smooth up or remove for realigning.

Bond-3D
9264
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/bond-3d/

Bond-7A
9265
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/bond-7a/


9266
Roger Koh
Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

Roger Koh
03-31-2019, 12:55 PM
1- Both sides need to be well prepared.
2- Damaged surface need to be free of wool, probably skive (To skive is to shave off the top surface of leather to make it less thick.) down.
3- The donor piece would also preferred to be skive (so that half of each sides makes the same thickness as original.
4- The donor piece looks stiff and should be relax with Hydrator-3.3
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/
> Fatliquor-5.0
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/
> Hydrator-3.3
before bonding.
5- Make sure that the wool of both sides are straight up so that there is no gap when the wool is lay back.


>>> Do I spread on entire piece or just along outside and a spot in the middle?

1- A one-quarter inches larger all round of the donor piece is preferred to work on.
2- Bonding from the middle and allowing to dry and cure with strength is the 1st-Step.
3- When all the sides can be pull without off centering, start with center to edge in opposite direction so that the donor piece is flat and the meeting edge is trim off accordingly.
4- The bonding from opposite edge is repeated until the bonding is completed.

I recommend you do a practice before the actual work to experience out my recommendation.

Roger Koh
Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]