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View Full Version : Pigmented (Two-Tone Molted) - semi aniline sofa cushion cracking throughout, for: "Beeker"



chet
02-25-2015, 01:24 PM
46024601460346044605

chet
02-25-2015, 01:29 PM
I ordered antique-27 let me know if it should be something else,

chet
02-25-2015, 01:36 PM
Want to clean cushion tomorrow. This cushion feels very weak. Feel it might fall apart ehen it gets wet. How should I proceed?

Roger Koh
02-25-2015, 03:14 PM
>>> Feel it might fall apart when it gets wet.

It is the getting it drying back where the weakness lies.


Caution is to allow only “one” drying cycle and only after Fatliquor-5.0 is full replenished up to 14% increase in weight when dry.

Two ways of doing it . . .
1 – Predetermine the exact amount of Fatliquor-5.0 will be require to increase its weight and apply that entire amount through a few almost drying cycle or closed to 25% before allowing it to dry.

2 – “Guestimation” is by applying at each almost drying condition and let the leather soak up till saturated before allowing it to dry.

Note:
If the fatliquor content is below its tensile-strength threshold there is a chance that the leather will still remain weak and subject to rip or tear when not handle carefully.
Another tip is to gently massage the leather at between 14% - 25% moisture levels until dry to impart greater tensile strength.
You may need two times the amount of Hydrator-3.3 to open up the stick together fibers and dwelling to swell the leather is a vital preconditioning it prior to fatliquor replenishing it.
Much of the refinishing preparation is best done during the wet processes and removing of existing deteriorated finishing is done with Razor-60 and fine sanding.
Removing of foreign contamination is done with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0 to strengthen the pH chemistry integrity of the leather.
Check for tackiness during the acidification rinsing or during the hydrating process and is best protonated with Acidifier-2.0 until the leather revert to a healthy squeaky feel.
Impregnator-26 for strengthening the leather structure is recommended from the suede side after dry from fatliquoring process.

chet
02-26-2015, 04:24 AM
We can work form both sides.
Should we Hydrate and fatliquore from suede side before we do any cleaning? If so we will hydrate and fatliquore for several days so we can go through several almost dry cycles?
After dry from above steps we then should Degreaser2.2 and follow up with Acidifier 2.0?
If this sequence is correct, will we need any more hydrator or fatliquore after cleaning?

Roger Koh
02-26-2015, 09:09 AM
Sequence of Process:
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 without breaking these “wet processes”.

Once the degreasing-rinsing system is completed from the front, hydrating and fatliquoring system can continue from the suede side.

chet
02-26-2015, 03:16 PM
After cleaning several times with Degrease 2.2 and allowing to dwell for several hours, re cleaned with Degrease2.2 until towels were showing clean.
We then rinsed with acidifier and extracted with towels several times till squeaky.

We then saturated front and back with Hydrator (as much as it would adsorb. Then placed in an air tight plastic bag.



4622
After 4 hours we applied a little more hydrator to the front and back to insure it was saturated. I gently massaged it in by hand and also used a plastic squeegee.

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massaged it in by hand

4623
Applied Fatliquor to front and back until it was saturated, again massaged it in gently and used a plastic squeegee to help.

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More fatliquor

4627
I did place a few dry terry towels flat against the pigment side while it is inside out. I then folded it suede against suede so the fatliquor should thoroughly saturate the leather. I then placed it in an air tight plastic bag. Where it will stay overnight.

Roger Koh
02-26-2015, 08:46 PM
>>> Applied Fatliquor to front and back until it was saturated, again massaged it in gently and used a plastic squeegee to help.

It would be more effective to allow Hydrator-3.3 to dwell overnight or up to 72hrs to swell the stick together fiber and relax the “mud cracking” effect prior to Fatliquor-5.0.

It is OK if it is place in an airtight plastic bag.
By tomorrow the milky appearance should disappear into the leather structure.
Take a look at the surface “mud cracking” effect again if it looks less drastic.
Access water from the exhausted fatliquor may be removed and replace with Hydrator-3.3 until the mud cracking improves.
With satisfaction Fatliquor-5.0 may again applied until fully saturated.
This time where the leather appearance improves of the “mud cracking” the leather may be let to natural slow drying. Further application of Fatliquor-5.0 may continue if the leather is still absorbent.

Note:
Slow drying will produce softer leather and is less prone to stiffness that leads to cracking.
Lightly massaging or flexing the leather while between 14% and 25% until dry will improve suppleness and strength.
If the leather is over dry, mist spray with Hydrator-3.3 and work to soften it.
Extra strength with Impregnator-26 is applied from the suede side.

Roger Koh
02-27-2015, 12:06 PM
Tips:

Post #7 picture #1

Deteriorated finishes are easily shaved off entire from seam to seam - makes refinishing more even textured and easier to work with appropriate repair materials

chet
03-02-2015, 06:14 AM
Going to begin drying sequence. I placed the leather back on the cushion and left a plastic bag over the cushion so the moisture would have to evaporate through the top grain, pigment side. The leather looks and feels better. I sprayed surface with Hydrator and gently extracted with towels, I'm still getting soil, so I will repeat misting on hydrator and extracting with towels periodically while it dries.

I can only massage so much while the cushion is put together, is it better to remove it from cushion or leave it the way it is?

4646
Wet leather placed back on cushion

4647
close up of Mud cracked area

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closer photo of cracked area while still wet

Roger Koh
03-02-2015, 09:32 AM
>>> I sprayed surface with Hydrator and gently extracted with towels, I'm still getting soil, so I will repeat misting on hydrator and extracting with towels periodically while it dries.

Use horsehair Brush-1 or equivalent for agitation with Hydrator-3.3 prior to towel extraction is more effective from the groves and cracks.


>>> I can only massage so much while the cushion is put together, is it better to remove it from cushion or leave it the way it is?

It is safer to put back the cushion while the leather is still wet to prevent from any cracking.


Tips:

When no more soiling is pick up from Hydrator-3.3 > Brush-1 > Towel processes – Repairs begins.

Internal Repairs:
While still damp at 25% range Impregnator-26 can start to apply into these cracks, as the inter-fibrillary system still remains very open at this stage for easier penetration and distribution. Surface remnants are wipe away to prevent surface built-up. Application is repeated until fully saturated with help of horsehair Brush-1.

Surface Repairs:
Surface repairs is done with Bond-3D or + Bond-5C + coloring to fill the cracks and gaps using a plastic card to level it off. Again surface remnants are wiped off carefully using a strong paper towel by the edge of a plastic card.

Surface Dry Preparation:
Sanding off old existing finishes without removing the leather crust prepare the surface for Adhesor-73 follows with the appropriate coloring system.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant

chet
03-02-2015, 10:59 AM
It is nearly dry now, I have been carefully cleaning from the pigment side. I looked inside to see how thin the leather is in this area. I can see a little daylight through the thinnest and most worn spots.

I plan on using Impreganator next and following the procedure you describe here.

I will need to reinforce this cushion because it is already paper thin. What glue should I use to apply the linen subpatch? I plan on re-enforcing the entire seat cushion side.

I have taken the leather off the cushion again so I can easily work from the suede side. There was still some fiberfill clinging to the suede so I very carefully scraped some of it off with Razor and then to get the rest off I used the suede brush very gently in a circular motion. It seemed to soften the leather and I now have all the fiber fill off.
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I am finishing the drying with an airmover gently blowing into the covers and gently massaging the leather during this phase. I have applied fatliquor several more times.
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Roger Koh
03-02-2015, 11:46 AM
>>> I will need to reinforce this cushion because it is already paper thin. What glue should I use to apply the linen subpatch? I plan on re-enforcing the entire seat cushion side.

Use Bond-3D and scrape the suede as donor fiber with the Razor-60. This repairs technique is permanent where the repairing material becomes part of the leather structure without deteriorating in comparison with other methods or products.

Like to see some pictures of your process and let me know how it looks through against light.

chet
03-02-2015, 01:55 PM
I should repair these thin areas with donor suede fibers and 3D prior to using impregnator to the entire area?
I'm still going to reinforce with thin linin cloth afterwards for insurance purposes. what kind of glue would be good to use? I'm covering a 2' x2' area.

Roger Koh
03-04-2015, 09:16 AM
>>> I should repair these thin areas with donor suede fibers and 3D prior to using impregnator to the entire area?

Impregnator-26 comes first for internal below surface repairs.
Bond-3D with donor suede fibers from surrounding areas or of similar color follows next.


>>> I'm still going to reinforce with thin linin cloth afterwards for insurance purposes.

Not sure your “insurance” means and does it needs to be shown as prove of work?
If your insurance is to ensure that it will take the stress back to normal use then the finish side has to be both follow the Impregnator-26 > Bond-3D process as well to level up the cracks with Bond-3D.


>>> what kind of glue would be good to use? I'm covering a 2' x2' area.

Bond-3D can be used with the toughest material available and we have work with aluminum mosquito mesh the ultimate repairs without any effect on stress and dimensional instability for the surface seat areas. This quality of works carries a warranty of 5 years and the customer pays accordingly.

Here are examples of bonding process with a choice of mesh fiber or metallic.

#1
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Applying Bond-3D with a plastic card onto a aluminum mosquito mesh.


#2
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Heat blow-drying and the edges are held on by duct tape.


#3
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Finish


#4
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Fabric sub-patch mesh

Roger Koh
[email protected]

chet
03-04-2015, 11:39 AM
Roger, let me know if this sequence was correct?

4683
Applied Impregnator 3 times and gently worked in with a squeegee to help tighten the grain and strengthen the leather. It really seemed to tighten up the leather (it was quite loose).

4684
I mixed 3D with suede fibers

4685
I used suede/ 3D mixture to fill in very thin areas. I gently used a spatula to smooth out and insure there were no voids.

4686
I then used 3D without suede to do a final smoothing of this area. Gently smoothing with a plastic spatula.

4687
Now working from the grain side. We applied Impregnator to damaged areas, and wiped excess off the smooth leather.

4688
to build up missing finish, we are now using 3D and gently scaping off excess with a spatula.

4689
Shows the wet 3D in the low areas.

Next we plan on adding color to tint the 3D glue for final building up of finish.

Roger Koh
03-04-2015, 12:31 PM
>>> Applied Impregnator 3 times and gently worked in with a squeegee to help tighten the grain and strengthen the leather. It really seemed to tighten up the leather (it was quite loose).

Correct!


>>> I mixed 3D with suede fibers

Skip this step - unnecessary


>>> I used suede/ 3D mixture to fill in very thin areas. I gently used a spatula to smooth out and insure there were no voids.

The fiber is wasted in the mix and not maximizing it.
What I practice is applying the Bond-3D directly onto the repair areas and fiber is then adds and compressed down over a wax paper with the lightest round headed hammer for better impact or compact. Repairs don/t stick to the wax paper with continuous adding of the donor fiber and sufficient Bond-3D to cement it.


>>> I then used 3D without suede to do a final smoothing of this area. Gently smoothing with a plastic spatula.

Correct!


>>> Now working from the grain side. We applied Impregnator to damaged areas, and wiped excess off the smooth leather.

Correct!


>>> to build up missing finish, we are now using 3D and gently scaping off excess with a spatula.

Correct!


>>> Shows the wet 3D in the low areas. Next we plan on adding color to tint the 3D glue for final building up of finish.

The final 25% fill up with color will look better thus avoiding unnecessary build up of color that may look too plastiky.


Continue to show pictures help me to help you better!