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View Full Version : Aniline (Wax Pull-Up) - Restoration Hardware - Top coat damage - help!



ckelly33
02-18-2015, 07:40 AM
12 years ago I splurged and bought a leather chair/ottoman from Restoration Hardware on the day I finished grad school - so it is special to me. I noticed it had began to get a 'scaly' feel to it and my clothing would even snag a little on it so I became reluctant to sit on it. A few months ago, I asked a "leather specialist" what to do about it. We corresponded a few times and I sent him several pictures of what I wanted to restore. He told me to get very fine sandpaper and go over the rough areas and I did. I then cleaned and conditioned it. When it is still moist from the leather conditioner, it looks great but when it dries, it has a matte look - no more shine in those areas that I sanded. I have learned since that there is a 'topcoat' to leather furniture and I suspect that I have damaged the topcoat.

Is there anything that I can do to restore my chair to it's former glory?

Thanks. I appreciate any help.

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Roger Koh
02-20-2015, 04:52 PM
>>> I noticed it had begun to get a 'scaly' feel to it and my clothing would even snag a little on it so I became reluctant to sit on it.

What you described is a compound problem. One failure leads to another, first is the drying up of the original fatliquor and the wax effect, second is the friction rubs that wears out the topcoat and into the leather crust. The ‘scaly’ feel is quite similar to mud cracking when observed under magnifying glass.


>>> A few months ago, I asked a "leather specialist" what to do about it. We corresponded a few times and I sent him several pictures of what I wanted to restore. He told me to get very fine sandpaper and go over the rough areas and I did. I then cleaned and conditioned it. When it is still moist from the leather conditioner, it looks great but when it dries, it has a matte look - no more shine in those areas that I sanded.

Sanding the leather crust makes the leather coarser rather sanding to the finishes instead.
Any alkaline cleaner used without pH neutralizing it thereafter will further weakens the ionic bonding between the amphoteric leather protein fiber and its non-amphoteric leather constituents and in this case the original fatliquor leaches out. Leather fatliquor content is measureable with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter. An Aniline Wax Pull-up should be above 14% when fresh from the tannery. Take a reading and top-up the differences will solves the scaly problem to a degree.


>>> I have learned since that there is a 'topcoat' to leather furniture and I suspect that I have damaged the topcoat.

There is the urethane gloss topcoat like AnilineTop-21G or 76G (heavy duty) that is originally coated over the wax effect like WaxEffect-8.6. The wax effect does two function, first to impart a pull-up effect that lightens when pull or stretch and secondly it imparts a coat of fine wax crystalline that when activate with a heat blower or hair dryer turns into a natural waxy shine. WaxEffect-8.6 is used to correct the distress appearance of this leather type on a periodic interval and Protector-D+ or D is used to maintain its appearance on a routine basis. AnilineTop-21G or 76G is used on a restorative or corrective basis and it is far overdue.


>>> Is there anything that I can do to restore my chair to its former glory?

A holistic restoration should include:

1st - The leather pH chemistry integrity of the leather by increasing its ionic attraction between the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) with its other ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor. A wet finger test of any tacky feeling on the body contact areas would suggest the denaturing of the leather. Using a low pH products will Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 besides degreasing will revert the leather to a healthy squeaky feel.

2nd – Aniline dyestuff are subject to UV fading and the light overexpose areas may be lighter in color saturation when compared with hidden unused areas. Dormant dyestuff within the thickness of the leather between 1 and 1.5mm when activated with Hydrator-3.3 moves and redistributed to the surface to a degree improves and contributes to the saturation. Any matching color dyestuff like Aniline-21 if desired is dyed at this stage and Hydrator-3.3 will work out any blotchiness encounter prior to Fatliquor-5.0.

3rd – The suppleness of the leather with softness and strength is contributed by the percentage of fatliquor in relation to its weight and measurable with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent wood moisture meter (note that moisture meter will measure any liquid content within the leather structure and we need to differentiate out the fatliquor content). Any difference from the tannery standard of 14% is top-up.

4th – The fashion pull-up effect after these long years is completely gone and is replenished accordingly with WaxEffect-8.6 both for the effect and the natural waxy sheen.

5th – Additional topcoat like AnilineTop-21G or 76G adds extra gloss to satisfaction and this is where the finishes is fine sanded with 1500/2000grit sandpaper in between dried coatings.

6th – The finishing top-up is an application of Protector-D+ leather scented or scentless Protector-D. Any minor scuff is then routine maintained at tip-top condition.

Let me know what you think of the process.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant


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Use this Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference.


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http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw7-cl-aniline-wax-pull-up-leather-dye-refinishing-kit/