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Questions!
08-26-2014, 09:38 AM
I am very keen to purchase the item but I am unable to find a website or product list.

My problem is very similar to the one in the link below:

http://www.autopia.org/forum/topic/117633-leather-doctor-leather-ink-dye-stain-removal-kit-review/

Please find attached the image showing the Brown staining of a leather belt on an Aston Martin cream truffle seat (off-white).


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#2
3734

Roger Koh
08-26-2014, 10:17 AM
This is the latest version of the leather belt stain removal Kit Ap7.di: from this on-line store: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/the-293/Leather-Doctor-Kit-Ap7.di/Detail

You may view this thread how “reverse transfer” technique works without physical stress to the color finishing, in this belt transfer case the constant rubbing may also wears out the topcoat or damaged into the colorcoat only reveal after the stain is “reverse transfer” onto this special paper towel. So any physical agitation is limited to only using horsehair Brush-1 and towel extraction by blotting without rubbing. When color is intact, it is recommended that matching topcoat be reapplied to give extra protection for future potential leather belt rubbings. This preventive care avoids the need for color repairs. Protector-B+ with its rub-resistant buttery-feel reduces friction rubs thus prolongs the wear of the color finishing.

Examples:
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?11788-2013-BMW-Ivory-White-Leather-Seats-a-2-or-3-months-leather-belt-and-fabric-dye-2-stains

http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?10384-2011-Honda-Ridgeline-with-Light-Gray-Leather-Seats-has-Dye-Transfer-from-Black-Belt!



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Leather Doctor Kit Ap7.di – Auto Pigmented (perforated) Leather Dye / Ink Stain Removal Kit
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/the-293/Leather-Doctor-Kit-Ap7.di/Detail
Leather Doctor® Kit Ap7.di, auto pigmented (perforated) leathers dye and ink remover kit is an innovative concept of removing blue jeans dye and ink stains featuring a “reverse transfer” technique utilizing a paper towel over the dwelling Prep-7.7. Prep-7.7. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the stains on dwell time and the paper towel reverse absorb the stain instantaneously from the leather. Prior failed attempt with set-in stains may require the help of Bleach-9.9 as booster to the Prep-7.7 to remove the residual stains. Sticky residue is clean with Cleaner-3.8, rinsed with Rinse-3.0 and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 when Bleach-9.9 is cooperated. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates the leather structure with softness and suppleness when dry. MicroTop-54D is an option for renewing the topcoat from friction wear. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe dye and ink stain removal system.

Instruction:

Testing with Prep-7.7
1. Cut out a piece of paper towel from the kit not bigger than our thumb size and soak it with Prep-7.7.
2. Test it on the worst stains area and inspect every 24 hours with fresh application until the stain is gone.
3. Observe if there is sign of stain removal, if it does, the stain will eventually be removes with repeat application.
4. To secure the test patch from dislodging wrapped it over with see through cling wrap.
5. When stain is removed with satisfaction, clean off the sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 until a squeaky-feel.
6. The lack of a healthy squeaky feel may be the result of worn out topcoat, reapplication with MicroTop-54M is recommended.
7. Apply a soak out paper towel with Acidifier-2.0 over the area until dry to strengthen the finish prior to topcoat application.
8. When test after 72 hours shows poor response, Bleach-9.9 may be used to boost the Prep-7.7.

Mixing Ratio (1: 2: 2)
1. A mixing ratio guide by weight is 1 part Bleach-9.9: 2 parts Prep-7.7: 2 parts Hot water.
2. From the mixing bottle, a small test portion Bleach-9.9 is first added into the bottle follow with Prep-7.7 adding and stirring into a paste.
3. Hot water is dripped into the bottle using the pipette to activate the bleach and stirring into a creamy paste.

Testing with Bleach-9.9
1. Apply onto an inconspicuous or hidden area and leave it for a 12 hours inspection for discoloration.
2. Remove residue with damp wiping and cleaning sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.
3. Cut out a paper towel, soak with Acidifier-2.0 and place on the test spot until naturally dry to neutralize the alkalinity.

Note
If testing with Bleach-9.9 bleach shows side effect, abandon and continue only with Prep-7.7.

Actual Application
Repeat testing successes to the actual application.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]

Roger Koh
09-16-2014, 02:52 PM
>>> Dear Roger, Hope all is well. I have received the kit today and started the first step which was cleaning the seat from dust and then liberally applying prep 7.7 (chose not to do the bleach method). i attach a photo of the seat as it currently looks for your reference.


However, I need some further clarification on the next steps and would appreciate your input, mainly the following:
1- I did not use the horsehair brush yet, i applied prep 7.7. to the paper towel directly and placed it. Will I need to use it at any stage?
2- I understand that once the dye has been successfully removed after 24-72 hours of constant application of prep 7.7, i will have to clean the whole area with with Cleaner-3.8 followed by with Rinse-3.0, how long should i wait before I apply Acidifier 2.0, or will I not need to use it if no bleach was applied?
3- Is the next step then to use Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0? and is there a time needed in between these 2?
4- Finally what does last is it Protector B or MicroTip 54? again is there a time needed in between these 2?

As you can see i am mostly confused on the order of items to be used and if there is a necessary time between these items. I really appreciate all your help to get the best results possible.

3829


This is a quick reply!

The white I see on the towel are air bubbles and they should be squeeze out with the horsehair Brush-1 with a stretch so that the paper towel will cling tight.

Please show if you are doing it right. Otherwise it will have a blotchy effect with those air bubbles and you may have to do it all over which is not recommended.

Roger Koh
09-17-2014, 01:36 PM
>>> 1- I did not use the horsehair brush yet, i applied Prep-7.7. to the paper towel directly and placed it. Will I need to use it at any stage?

You may use it to stretch out any air spaces so that the paper saturated with Prep-7.7 has a direct contact for the stain to reverse transfer (Any air spaces thus becomes non-working surfaces).


>>> 2- I understand that once the dye has been successfully removed after 24-72 hours of constant application of Prep 7.7, I will have to clean the whole area with Clean-3.8 followed by with Rinse-3.0, how long should i wait before I apply Acidifier 2.0, or will I not need to use it if no bleach was applied?

The sequence is correct Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0.
Cleaning, rinsing and pH balancing is a continuous process.
Clean-3.8 is to remove the remaining sticky residue of Prep-7.7.
Rinse-3.0 is to remove all remaining residue from continuous working in the present of moisture content from the atmosphere to a healthy squeaky feel.
Acidifier-2.0 comes to help to ensure the leather is non sticky or tacky from possible prior unknown alkaline overexposure of any sort to a healthy squeaky clean.
When treating with Acidifier-2.0 still feels tacky, the topcoat have deteriorated and may need 10% Crosslinker-25 into the Topcoat to stop the topcoat tackiness (seldom happens but a holistic solution to any leather problem).


>>> 3- Is the next step then to use Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0? and is there a time needed in between these 2?

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system is for below surface leather structure and the Hydrator-3.3 have first to penetrate through the existing finishes coating before it reaches in the cross section of the leather structure. Do a test using a cotton face pad and leave over existing finishes and see if it darkens, a sign of penetration through micro crazing of the finishes. If there is no sign of any penetration this leather rejuvenating process may cease in those areas that are impervious. Work only along the stitching rows where the cross section is exposed and where the fatliquor evaporates from there, replenishing to prevent the loss of tensile strength. A weak needle holes when stress elongated and eventually cracks and when the cracks joins up the leather is easily ripped. See below about fatliquoring.


>>> 4- Finally what does last is it Protector B or MicroTip 54? again is there a time needed in between these 2?

Optional is MicroTop-54, it restoring the original topcoat from wear, we may only see a luster difference if we can catch it from light reflection. Always test if the luster matches at a hidden corner otherwise use matching luster from 4 levels, gloss, satin, matte or dull.
Protctor-B+ or B (without the leather scent) is highly recommended to reduce friction rubs besides squeaky noises and sticky soiling. Protector-B+ should be used on a routine basis to protect the cleanability of the finishes and prolong wear to the leather finishes.
Always remember to use Protctor-B+ last as it impart a non-stick surface, which also means that
MicroTop-54 is applied onto cleaned dried surface with one or two coats between dry with lint-free towel or foam brush, professional results is by varnishing brushes or airbrushing.
Only when dried and satisfied that Protector-B+ is applied to provides a non-stick surface, besides other benefits.


Further readings:

Fatliquoring:
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks; creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fibers. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.
Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor:
The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up to 14% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure.
Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows:
If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%.
By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates.
In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0.
It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up to 14% fatliquor content.
Instruction:
1 Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
2 Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
3 Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
4 Allow natural drying for extra softness.
Tips:
1 When crispy dry, prior surface contaminations/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.
2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.
3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Questions!
09-18-2014, 12:14 PM
Dear Roger,

Thank you for the detailed response, appreciate the time you are taking to assist with the process.

Yes, I did go back to reduce the air bubbles that same night and also added some more of Prep 7.7. I had then left the paper and prep 7.7 on for a total period of 48 hours. The paper had dried out in most spots but remained sticky int the center portion of the seat and at the side creases. I had then liberally cleaned the seat with Cleaner 3.8 and then Rinse 3.0. Good news is almost all of the leather belt dye staining has been removed! However, the surface remains slightly sticky after 2 sessions of clear 3.8 and rinse 3.0.

Now a slightly odd issue seemed to have come up which is that with some lighting you can see some odd discoloring that is uneven. Do you have any ideas/views on what I should do next? Reapply Prep7.7 to achieve a more even tone? (Picture below)


3832

Roger Koh
09-18-2014, 12:42 PM
>>> The paper had dried out in most spots but remained sticky in the center portion of the seat and at the side creases. I had then liberally cleaned the seat with Clean-3.8 and then Rinse-3.0. Good news is almost all of the leather belt dye staining has been removed! However, the surface remains slightly sticky after 2 sessions of clear 3.8 and rinse 3.0.

Have you used horsehair Brush-1 with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 follows with terry towel extraction?


>>> However, the surface remains slightly sticky after 2 sessions of clear 3.8 and rinse 3.0.

Use Acidifier-2.0 spray, brush with Brush-1, towel extract residue (lather or foam) if any.
Place paper towel over the area and saturate out the paper towel and leave it to natural dry and inspect for any “stickiness” with wet fingers.

If wet fingers can detect any tackiness, then the topcoat has wears off leaving only the color coats that is vulnerable to cleaning and accelerated wears. Remember your belts may have a good rubbing that has wear out the “clear” topcoat is the most likely possibility resulting in presence b) susceptible to tactile sensation such as tackiness; condition.

For your readings:
MicroTop-54 clear topcoat is design to seals the pigment basecoat and decides its desired luster that ranges from dull, matte, satin to gloss. Gloss is the strongest of the four and may be used as the initial coating prior adjusting the luster to satin or matte. These topcoats are intermixable to match the original luster. Pigment coloring alone without a sealing topcoat would be: a) poor in aesthetics; b) susceptible to tactile sensation such as tackiness; c) poor physical properties such as wet rub, sweat resistant and scuff resistant; d) poor in ageing properties such as soil resistant and wet cleaning resistant.


>>> Now a slightly odd issue seemed to have come up which is that with some lighting you can see some odd discoloring that is uneven. Do you have any ideas/views on what I should do next? Reapply Prep7.7 to achieve a more even tone?

This is exactly what I have alerted you when I see airspace. It may also due to the uneven drying up of the Prep-7.7 that result in this unevenness.
Yes! Reapply Prep-7.7 to the affected areas and feather out to achieve an even appearance.
Use gentle brush agitation and blotting action when use towel extraction (no rubbing) especially on areas with suspect topcoat wears.