>>> Can you tell me what kind of leather the couch and chair are
From pictures, all these three leathers finishes are transparent “Aniline” dyed with a gloss to satin topcoat. Use the Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference.
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>>> Both are showing some staining from hair oil, skin oils, general dirt and, on the right side couch arm, dog saliva. (I guess if saliva is on the arm, then something else might be on the seat...?)
Dog Saliva:
This is protein-based stain that tends to coagulate and would require a specialty leather protein stain remover like d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 as the first step and this applies to the “something else might be on the seat” as well.
Hair Oil, Skin Oils and Sweat:
Most of these contamination are penetrated as well and will require Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system with further help from the Hydrator-3.3 to wick out the contamination.
General Dirt:
A preparatory cleaning both surface and penetrated contamination is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 for bleeding control, follows by leather rejuvenating with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.
>>> Neither piece has any damage, although some wear is clear.
All whitish mud cracking and scratches reveal topcoat damages and deteriorated topcoat is recommended to be stripped chemically with Stripper-2.3 and physically with Eraser-4, Razor-60 and 2000grit Sanding. Leather surface grain wear that can be detected with fingertips is repair by using Adhesor-73.
>>> I would like to clean them up and, more important, recolor them to match the new room they are moving into. The couch and ottoman are a teal and I'd like to make it a navy or royal blue or, if that can't be done, then a brown. The chair is burgundy or maroon that I'd like to color a darker brown.
Working with transparent dyestuff is different from opaque coloring. In opaque or pigment coloring “what you see is what you get” – that is painting a blue over a red result in blue. Working with transparent dyestuff dyeing blue over red result in purple. Moreover the intensity of the color depends on layers and can range from light to dark. The method of dyes distribution and application will also determine the end result. In general it is easier to dye to the dark range using “coating” dyestuff like Anilne-76 > AnilineTop-76 with 9 basic color to choose from (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/the-Dye-Coating-%E2%80%93-Aniline-dsh-76/Categories) . Recommend having practice prior to actual application.
Mentioned products are found in these kits and individual as add-on are also available on-line:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront
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Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
Leather DoctorŽ Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or show signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
Email
[email protected] for a color matching services.
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Leather Doctor Kit A5.ps – Aniline Leather Protein-Stain Remover Kit
Leather DoctorŽ Kit A5.ps, aniline leather protein stain remover kit is designed to remove protein based stains that tends to coagulated. d’Protein-10 is developed to deflocculates coagulating protein stains such as blood, body-discharge, milk, cream, ice cream, egg, meat juices, vomit, perspiration, urine and other protein based stains. Moreover, any staining that comes from a living animal or person will probably need this product in the removing process. Acidifier-2.0 is a leather pH stabilizer that is used to rinse and neutralize to its desired neutral pH of 3 - 5 simultaneously and ensures that the leather retain its healthy squeaky feel with a wet finger testing. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leather and reduces surface tension prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing rejuvenates the leather structure for softness and suppleness when dry. Protector-B+ enhances a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing protein based stains from auto-perforated leathers.
>>> (And, I guess, also how much of the products I will need to order.)
Suggest to order the closest kit and add individual products to it (example add d’Protein-10 to Kit A7.cl), do some practice and order refills thereafter.
Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com