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View Full Version : Aniline (Sauvage) - Multiple Leather Problems - Ink/Unknown substance/super glue/can't color match the color



apolastre
08-17-2013, 02:27 PM
I bought this leather sectional about 2 years ago and my 3 kids have pretty much destroyed it. I'm hoping you can help me restore this leather couch. The first picture, my 3 year old created a master piece with a pen. I tried to color match it, with a cognac color (my couch is a Catarina Cognac Leather sectional), but the color was way too dark, and I just lived with it. The other picture (with the darker half of the section and a dark spot towards to the bottom), started out with a large dark spot (which no one admitted to spilling something on it). I tried to put corn starch to absorb whatever it was, but it remained dark. I thought I could redye it, and I tried to color match it again, and blend in the color, but it was the wrong color and the dark spot remained. The last spot (towards the right of the couch), is a smaller spot, which my other son spilled super glue on it. Again, I tried to fix it, and I'm just terrible at it. I don't know what is the finish of the couch, I know it's aniline and I was told that the manufacturer went out of business, so I don't know how I'm going to color match this cognac color. I need help. If I have to redye this whole couch, I'm okay with that, but I just want my couch back to the way it was, and I want to protect it from any more damage.

apolastre
08-18-2013, 05:19 PM
#1 - Pen Marks:
Compound with color matching it too dark!
1537


#2 - Unknown Spot:
Begins with a large dark spot.
Compound with cornstarch and with wrong color, so dark spot remains.
1538


#3 - Super Glue Stain:
Failed to fix it.
1539


#4 - Original Color
1540

apolastre
08-18-2013, 05:23 PM
The first picture is the closeup of the pen scribbles, and that I dyed a darker cognac color. The second picture is of the darker stain (I don't know what it is, I think it might be water), and I tried to clean it, and redye, but I dyed it a wrong color and with a different finish. The next two are the superglue closeup, that I tried to fix and dyed the wrong color.

The last one is inside the creases of the couch (the original color without any blemishes).

I need to know for each area, what product(s) I need and the steps to take (PLEASE).

Roger Koh
08-19-2013, 10:31 PM
From picture #1
This leather is identified as Aniline leather with a typical gloss.
Besides the penetrated ink marks and stains we can clearly see that the topcoat is deteriorating with scaling cracks and typical nail scratches.

From picture #2
Besides removing the original probably oil related stains, the cover up coloring need to be stripped off as well.

From picture #3
We have to check the integrity of the leather structure. An easy technique to check is to wet it out with tap water and test out if we can detect any tackiness or in worst cases sliminess.

From picture #4
The chances to retain the original color with original “transparent” dyestuff will depend on the result of the above 3 major problem stain areas. Most aniline damages to the grain leather itself will retain a darkening effect (that is why you may see some natural scars as well that came originally sustain by the animal). Additional scars are “blemishes” that is best conceals or camouflage with a darker shade to retain its original finishes. Alternative is to downgrade your leather finishes with opaque pigmented coloring.

Understand how leather is process:

There are 4 major components that make up leather.
1. It starts with an amphoteric protein fiber – the raw hide.
2. The rawhide is preserve chemically with a non-amphoteric tanning agent, in this case is chrome-tanned.
3. A non-amphoteric dyestuff stains the protein fiber for added aesthetic.
4. To infuse the leather with suppleness and stitch tear strength above 2000psi, another non-amphoteric fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is used.

The amphoteric protein component of leather is pH sensitive, thus when alkaline solution is used it will weakens the ionic positive charge of the protein fiber – and it will affect the major 3 other non-amphoteric component of the leather.

We shall adopt the leather-safe approach to solve the above problems – bearing in mind the chemistry integrity of the leather as well as topping up the charges for the protein fiber positive (+ve) to strengthen the ionic attraction between the other ionic negative (-ve) constituents.

This Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide shall be used as reference for cleaning and restoration accordingly.

1543

Roger Koh
08-19-2013, 11:06 PM
From picture #1
This leather is identified as Aniline leather with a typical gloss.
Besides the penetrated ink marks and stains we can clearly see that the topcoat is deteriorating with scaling cracks and typical nail scratches.

Solution for picture #1 stain:
From Guide, refer to Stain Type: under Ballpoint-Ink / Permanent Marker Category.
Step 1: Apply Prep-4.4/Ink Remover-4.4 to the ink marks and let it saturate into the ink stain.
Let the products dwell into the leather structure up to 3 days while maintaining its moisture level and prevent evaporation with cling wrap over it.
Step 2: The surface sticky residue is removed with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky feel.
Step 3: Hydrator-3.3 saturates the leather to redistribute the suspended soiling particulates and this is again dwell up to 3 days meanwhile topping up the moisture level to facilitate internal colloidal movement to the surface.
Step 4: The plastic wrapping is released to allow drying from the internal structure to wick up soiling particulates.
Step 5: Soft facial tissue paper replace the plastic wrapping and lay flat to become an extension of the leather surface. This tissue paper helps trap soiling particulates as it wick through the tissue paper.
Step 6: When the tissue is crispy dry peel it off.
Step 7: Leather Eraser-4 helps to erase soiling particulates.

Note:
If the leather feels tacky, use Acidifier-2.0 instead to strengthen the ionic attraction between the protein fiber and the tanning agent.

Most of the deteriorated topcoat may also be removed in this thorough process.

Leather dryness is to be replenished with fatliquor (fat, oil and water) as well.

Aniline dye staining over existing remnant topcoat will produce blotchiness, thus for an more even appearance Aniline coating dyestuff (Anilne-76) is used instead.

Color intensity has to adjust to just cover inevitable darkening blemishes if any.

To even out the uneven absorption of the leather surface, Adhesor-73 is used as sealing foundation prior to dye coating it.

Best result is to use an airbrush like Paasche Single Action to evenly distribute the dyestuff accordingly.



From picture #2
Besides removing the original probably oil related stains, the cover up coloring need to be stripped off as well.

Original stain is most probably oil or grease related and we shall follow the steps accorded to Penetrated Oil, Grease & Sweat procedural steps.

The unwanted covering up may be strip with Stripper-2.3.

Stains from picture #3 would be a combination of the above stripping the remaining solid and general degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0 to control the chemistry integrity of the leather.

Note no body contact areas may use Rinse-3.0 instead after Degreaser-2.2.

It is time to do a complete restoration both below surface and above surface.

Like to hear from you, what you think?


Roger
Leather Care Consultant

apolastre
08-21-2013, 02:52 AM
From picture #1
This leather is identified as Aniline leather with a typical gloss.
Besides the penetrated ink marks and stains we can clearly see that the topcoat is deteriorating with scaling cracks and typical nail scratches.

Solution for picture #1 stain:
From Guide, refer to Stain Type: under Ballpoint-Ink / Permanent Marker Category.
Step 1: Apply Prep-4.4/Ink Remover-4.4 to the ink marks and let it saturate into the ink stain.
Let the products dwell into the leather structure up to 3 days while maintaining its moisture level and prevent evaporation with cling wrap over it.
Step 2: The surface sticky residue is removed with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky feel.
Step 3: Hydrator-3.3 saturates the leather to redistribute the suspended soiling particulates and this is again dwell up to 3 days meanwhile topping up the moisture level to facilitate internal colloidal movement to the surface.
Step 4: The plastic wrapping is released to allow drying from the internal structure to wick up soiling particulates.
Step 5: Soft facial tissue paper replace the plastic wrapping and lay flat to become an extension of the leather surface. This tissue paper helps trap soiling particulates as it wick through the tissue paper.
Step 6: When the tissue is crispy dry peel it off.
Step 7: Leather Eraser-4 helps to erase soiling particulates.

Note:
If the leather feels tacky, use Acidifier-2.0 instead to strengthen the ionic attraction between the protein fiber and the tanning agent.

Most of the deteriorated topcoat may also be removed in this thorough process.

Leather dryness is to be replenished with fatliquor (fat, oil and water) as well.

Aniline dye staining over existing remnant topcoat will produce blotchiness, thus for an more even appearance Aniline coating dyestuff (Anilne-76) is used instead.

Color intensity has to adjust to just cover inevitable darkening blemishes if any.

To even out the uneven absorption of the leather surface, Adhesor-73 is used as sealing foundation prior to dye coating it.

Best result is to use an airbrush like Paasche Single Action to evenly distribute the dyestuff accordingly.



From picture #2
Besides removing the original probably oil related stains, the cover up coloring need to be stripped off as well.

Original stain is most probably oil or grease related and we shall follow the steps accorded to Penetrated Oil, Grease & Sweat procedural steps.

The unwanted covering up may be strip with Stripper-2.3.

Stains from picture #3 would be a combination of the above stripping the remaining solid and general degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0 to control the chemistry integrity of the leather.

Note body contact areas may use Rinse-3.0 instead after Degreaser-2.2.

It is time to do a complete restoration both below surface and above surface.

Like to hear from you, what you think?


Roger
Leather Care Consultant
Roger,

I am willing to try the fixes identified. I need modify my order. Please let me know how. Also, do I need to recolor and add a top coat? I am hoping I can puchase from you?

Roger Koh
08-22-2013, 11:10 AM
Please email me your modified order and I give option how to do that.

[email protected]

The failed attempts to the stain removal may have damages both the dyestuff and topcoat already and may become more obvious once they are further removed.

Picture #1 shows the creases already developed topcoat cracking, surrounding areas also shows scale or mud cracking.

Picture #2 shows failed attempt with covering up with some sort of pigment, and when stripped will affect the dyestuff as well and the topcoat.

Picture #3 shows a darkening effect, and if it still remains, then the new color has to camouflage it with matching color intensity – you original cognac may have to be sacrificed.

Picture #4 shows your original color – very unlikely you can get what you want when you refinish it with “transparent” aniline dyestuff. Unless you downgrade it to “opaque” pigment – then all the beauty of depth is lost. This picture also reveals that the leather is very dry of its moisture content – fatliquor (fat, oil and water) – the leather has shrunk to show these stiff creases. A structural restoration will require the leather to relax with Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing to return the leather with more suppleness. Stitch tear strength will increase or maintain above 2000psi from potential rip along the stitching rows.

Read the Leather Problem Solving Guide accordingly.

Your sequence of process will probably take this route:

1. Specific Stain Removal – according to “Stain Types”.
2. General wet preparation for a general refinishing – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 / Acidifier-2.0 (control potential bleeding on contaminated surfaces).
3. Hydrating – check out the 5 functions of Hydrator-3.3
4. Fatliquoring - replenishing original fat and oil with Fatliquor-5.0
5. Any repairs – as necessary like skin abrasion will need the help of Adhesor-73 to return abrasion to smoothness.
6. Aniline transparent dye coating – Aniline-76
7. Topcoat to seat the Aniline-76 – AnilineTop-76
8. Non-stick, rub-resistant protection – Protector-B+

Note:
Also, do I need to recolor and add a topcoat?
Yes you do!
Working with transparent dyestuff need some practice, so you will know what you will get as color intensity do build up by layers.

Let me know if you need further details before you commence your project.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant

apolastre
08-24-2013, 06:46 PM
Please email me your modified order and I give option how to do that.

[email protected]

The failed attempts to the stain removal may have damages both the dyestuff and topcoat already and may become more obvious once they are further removed.

Picture #1 shows the creases already developed topcoat cracking, surrounding areas also shows scale or mud cracking.

Picture #2 shows failed attempt with covering up with some sort of pigment, and when stripped will affect the dyestuff as well and the topcoat.

Picture #3 shows a darkening effect, and if it still remains, then the new color has to camouflage it with matching color intensity – you original cognac may have to be sacrificed.

Picture #4 shows your original color – very unlikely you can get what you want when you refinish it with “transparent” aniline dyestuff. Unless you downgrade it to “opaque” pigment – then all the beauty of depth is lost. This picture also reveals that the leather is very dry of its moisture content – fatliquor (fat, oil and water) – the leather has shrunk to show these stiff creases. A structural restoration will require the leather to relax with Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing to return the leather with more suppleness. Stitch tear strength will increase or maintain above 2000psi from potential rip along the stitching rows.

Read the Leather Problem Solving Guide accordingly.

Your sequence of process will probably take this route:

1. Specific Stain Removal – according to “Stain Types”.
2. General wet preparation for a general refinishing – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 / Acidifier-2.0 (control potential bleeding on contaminated surfaces).
3. Hydrating – check out the 5 functions of Hydrator-3.3
4. Fatliquoring - replenishing original fat and oil with Fatliquor-5.0
5. Any repairs – as necessary like skin abrasion will need the help of Adhesor-73 to return abrasion to smoothness.
6. Aniline transparent dye coating – Aniline-76
7. Topcoat to seat the Aniline-76 – AnilineTop-76
8. Non-stick, rub-resistant protection – Protector-B+

Note:
Also, do I need to recolor and add a topcoat?
Yes you do!
Working with transparent dyestuff need some practice, so you will know what you will get as color intensity do build up by layers.

Let me know if you need further details before you commence your project.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant


Hi Roger,

I was away on travel for work and I'm not really reading everything. How do I get all the stuff I need and pay for it? Which would include the transparent dyestuff?

Thanks,

Anie

Roger Koh
08-26-2013, 10:20 AM
Anie,

You may pick your products from this link:

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant

apolastre
08-26-2013, 07:00 PM
Anie,

You may pick your products from this link:

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/StoreFront

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant

Roger,

I paid for the new order based on your list of items I needed to purchase. I know I purchased Aniline 76, but I want to get as close to the cognac color as possible (I do understand that's difficult, but I don't want to dye my whole couch a very dark color). You will give me a refund on my original order, correct? Also, even though I do have your directions, I'm going to need a little more clarification (thank you so much for helping me with this huge project). Maybe I'll become an expert like you. :o

I do get that after I put the plastic over the "damage", I need for it to sit for 3 days, but do I put the tissue paper first and then cover with the plastic? I'm unclear about this step.

Also, after the 3 days, what's the next step? for example, you say I need to get the degreaser, then the fatigor (I'm just putting names), but what goes first? Do I first use the degreaser, wait 2 hours or wait 24 hours and then the fatigor, or right after the other? I just need timeframes in using each product, so I can have the best product possible.

Also, as I'm walking through the process, I will take pictures and post them for you to further instruct me. I really will appreciate that.

Thanks,

Anie

Roger Koh
08-27-2013, 01:00 PM
Here is my suggestion how you order your products from this link:

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/the-Kit-%E2%80%93-Aniline-Leathers/Categories

Pick the kit closest to what you wish to accomplished with red-Brown – that should be

Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit

For the ink removal you will need Prep-4.4 from
Leather Doctor Kit A3 – Aniline Leather Care Kit
But in order not to duplicate products, you may pick this individual product from
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet/the-Stain-Remover-%E2%80%93-Accumulated-Soiling/Categories

This initial order is for your test out, then order refills as necessary.

Picture reference

Kit A7.cl
1597

Prep-4.4
1598

Roger Koh
08-31-2013, 08:34 PM
I want to get as close to the cognac color as possible (I do understand that's difficult, but I don't want to dye my whole couch a very dark color).
Anie

>>>I want to get as close to the cognac color as possible (I do understand that's difficult, but I don't want to dye my whole couch a very dark color).

I do not know which picture of color you refer to as cognac color. From the pictures I can see a range of color from Yellow, Orange to Red-Brown. These are the 3 basic colors that will make up your favorite cognac color I believe. You will need to get the color right before you proceed with the color. Adhesor-73 is used to lower the intensity of the color as well as to conceal the uneven absorbency of the leather. And preferable the dyestuff stays on top of the Adhesor-73 coating for better distribution of the transparent coating dyestuff.

Remember that the color you want is cognac (from the possible 3 color mix and with Adhesor-73 for intensity reduction).

How do we know if the desired cognac will come out looking good on the leather, as transparency brings out the beauty of the grain as well as the “blemishes” or stains that proves too stubborn to removes without further damages to the leather – then you have to leave it alone and dye over it.

You may do a sample dye on a piece of transparent cling wrapper (food wrapper) and place over these blemishes and see if you still can see them. This test will give you an idea how dark would give a better appearance to camouflage these blemishes.

Do this sample as follows:
Apply Adhesor-73 to the cling wrapper and let dry.
Apply your custom dye over the Adhesor-73 (to keep a record you have to counts the number of layers you applied to achieve the desired result).

Decide what tools you plan to use and test them out. I will use an airbrush (Paasche single action to do the application as I can control where and how much dye I will put onto the surface. Using brushes may cause streaks and letting the leather soak up at different rate will produce different intensity of color.

What I mention above are only tips you need to test them out yourself on other surface before the actual application onto your leather.

I will provide you plastic pipette for you to do your own color match.
Drip and count by drops into a plastic cup.

You may start with each of the color drop onto a white paper to give an idea of the basic color. Then the ratio mix color onto the paper as well to reach the color you want. You may apply the color onto the cling wrapper with Adhesor-73 for adhesion and place over spots to see if they can be camouflaged.

Roger Koh
08-31-2013, 08:57 PM
Your 2 orders so far are refunded.

Kit A7.cl default color is Antique-Brown (a ratio mix of 1: 1: 1 – Orange, Red-Brown and Dark-Brown). The intensity of this Antique-Brown may be adjusted lower with Adhesor-73. You may further adjust it with Yellow, Orange and Red-Brown to custom match your desire color range. So you may add these 3 extra colors to the Kit A7.cl

>>>I do get that after I put the plastic over the "damage", I need for it to sit for 3 days, but do I put the tissue paper first and then cover with the plastic? I'm unclear about this step.
Dwelling for up to 3 days with Hydrator-3.3 has its purposes and you may find the information on the product itself. The sixth reason is to get the suspended soiling particulates in between the leather fibers inter fribillary space to wick to the surface. The plastic cling wrapper is to control evaporation and the paper tissue is to trap the soiling particulates for easy peeling off rather than allowing the soiling particulates to remain on the leather surface. Eraser-4 helps to dislodge the surface particulates as a post soil removal system. Your choice if you like to place the tissue in the beginning or at the end of the second day. If you need the tissue to act as a reservoir to contain the Hydrator-3.3 then use it at the beginning. You may need to replenish the moisture level daily to keep the leather saturated. Leave the tissue paper intact as an extension of the leather surface avoiding air gaps and let the moisture wick through it.

Roger Koh
08-31-2013, 09:08 PM
>>>Also, after the 3 days, what's the next step? for example, you say I need to get the degreaser, then the fatigor (I'm just putting names), but what goes first? Do I first use the degreaser, wait 2 hours or wait 24 hours and then the fatigor, or right after the other? I just need timeframes in using each product, so I can have the best product possible.

Please you have to follow the sequence of procedure accordingly to the Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide. You have 2 stains problems and one you need to strip the unwanted covering up.

These 3 days soaking is pertaining to the grease stains and the ink stains and it is the 3rd and 4th steps accordingly.

You will do one stains removal at a single time so that you will get it right accordingly to the guide.

Instructions are also found in the individual bottles with sequence to follow.

apolastre
09-13-2013, 03:46 PM
9/13/13: Roger. I received the items and I'm confused with the steps. I don't understand how I don't get the steps.

I'm starting with Stain # 2 (The grease stain with the wrong color).

Please explain each step for me, please for this stain type.

Thanks,
Anie


>>>Also, after the 3 days, what's the next step? for example, you say I need to get the degreaser, then the fatigor (I'm just putting names), but what goes first? Do I first use the degreaser, wait 2 hours or wait 24 hours and then the fatigor, or right after the other? I just need timeframes in using each product, so I can have the best product possible.

Please you have to follow the sequence of procedure accordingly to the Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide. You have 2 stains problems and one you need to strip the unwanted covering up.

These 3 days soaking is pertaining to the grease stains and the ink stains and it is the 3rd and 4th steps accordingly.

You will do one stains removal at a single time so that you will get it right accordingly to the guide.

Instructions are also found in the individual bottles with sequence to follow.

Roger Koh
09-14-2013, 08:09 AM
#2 - Unknown Spot:
Begins with a large dark spot.
Compound with cornstarch and with wrong color, so dark spot remains.
1703

1]. Remove the unwanted “surface” wrong color with Stripper-2.3. However, existing original finishes, fatliquor and dyestuff may also be partially removed. Unknown cover-up stains may also be removed. That is to say once a finishes stripper is being used, leather rejuvenating (hydrating and fatliquor replenishing) and refinishing is a mandatory follow-up. Next is to remove the below surface penetrated darkening effect with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3. When all foreign contamination is removed then the leather is rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. When dry the surface is inspected. Sequence of repair to refinishing takes these steps: Repairs if any will decide after drying from Fatliquor-5.0. Refinishing starts with sealing the surface for even absorption with Adhesor-73 follows with custom color with Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76 > Protector-B+

The sequence of steps to follow:

1] Spray Stripper-2.3 onto the unwanted wrong color and work with Eraser-4 and horsehair Brush-1 follows with terry towel extraction.
Note: When existing original finishes is removed; remove the remainder as well from seam to seam for the entire cushion. Bear in mind that the entire sofa or sectional has to follow this route as well to give an overall appearance prior to refinishing the entire sectional. Note: there is a very slim chance that refinishing just one cushion can match up with the remaining areas.

Take pictures to show the result of stripping before we go to the next step.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

apolastre
09-22-2013, 03:28 PM
I followed the steps on the aniline leather grid. I started with the stripper, to strip the wrong dye color. I used the brush to agitate and I used the eraser. Then I used rinse 3.0 to clean it up.

Then I waited for it to dry.

Then I used the degreaser on the unknown substance and I used the brush to agitate. Although the direction said up to 30 minutes, I waited at least 45, before it dried and then I used a dry cloth to absorb the substance. It was yellowish color and then I used Rinse 3.0 to clean it up. When I sprayed the rinse 3.0 on it, it was this murky light brown color that showed on top.

I repeated the above steps, over several days, to remove the dark spot. I have not done the step with the Hydrator 3.3 and let it dwell for 3 days. I'm waiting for your instructions to see if I need to again repeat the stripping and the degreaser.

_______________________________________________________________________________________


#2 - Unknown Spot:
Begins with a large dark spot.
Compound with cornstarch and with wrong color, so dark spot remains.
1703

1]. Remove the unwanted “surface” wrong color with Stripper-2.3. However, existing original finishes, fatliquor and dyestuff may also be partially removed. Unknown cover-up stains may also be removed. That is to say once a finishes stripper is being used, leather rejuvenating (hydrating and fatliquor replenishing) and refinishing is a mandatory follow-up. Next is to remove the below surface penetrated darkening effect with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3. When all foreign contamination is removed then the leather is rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. When dry the surface is inspected. Sequence of repair to refinishing takes these steps: Repairs if any will decide after drying from Fatliquor-5.0. Refinishing starts with sealing the surface for even absorption with Adhesor-73 follows with custom color with Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-76 > Protector-B+

The sequence of steps to follow:

1] Spray Stripper-2.3 onto the unwanted wrong color and work with Eraser-4 and horsehair Brush-1 follows with terry towel extraction.
Note: When existing original finishes is removed; remove the remainder as well from seam to seam for the entire cushion. Bear in mind that the entire sofa or sectional has to follow this route as well to give an overall appearance prior to refinishing the entire sectional. Note: there is a very slim chance that refinishing just one cushion can match up with the remaining areas.

Take pictures to show the result of stripping before we go to the next step.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Roger Koh
09-23-2013, 09:24 AM
The stripping and degreasing looks good.

Continue to do it to the rest of the cushion removing all deteriorated finishes from seam to seam – that is the entire panel.
Tips:
Easier to remove the deteriorated finishes when it is saturated with Rinse-3.0, while the finishes becomes weaker and the leather becomes stronger.
A sharp circular blade is also an effective technique to shave them off.

Note:
In every stage of the restorative cleaning process the appearance has to look uniform especially intended for transparent aniline finishes with or without the optional dyeing step. It also means that the entire set has to be done to the same level, in order to have a uniform appearance throughout when finished.

Please show picture of the entire cushion with patchy deteriorated finishes removed entirely.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

apolastre
09-23-2013, 05:07 PM
The stripping and degreasing looks good.

Continue to do it to the rest of the cushion removing all deteriorated finishes from seam to seam – that is the entire panel.
Tips:
Easier to remove the deteriorated finishes when it is saturated with Rinse-3.0, while the finishes becomes weaker and the leather becomes stronger.
A sharp circular blade is also an effective technique to shave them off.

Note:
In every stage of the restorative cleaning process the appearance has to look uniform especially intended for transparent aniline finishes with or without the optional dyeing step. It also means that the entire set has to be done to the same level, in order to have a uniform appearance throughout when finished.

Please show picture of the entire cushion with patchy deteriorated finishes removed entirely.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

Roger,

Are you saying I have to take this step with the entire leather sectional? Or just this cushion?

Anie

Roger Koh
09-24-2013, 09:38 AM
First,

Just the cushion.

Tips:
From the stripping and degreasing, it looks like the leather is better finish without any additional dyestuff to get back to your original colour.
We may be able to reactivate the dormant dyestuff to resurface through the hydrating process. Meanwhile, like to see the overall appearance of this cushion.

apolastre
10-13-2013, 12:56 PM
First,

Just the cushion.

Tips:
From the stripping and degreasing, it looks like the leather is better finish without any additional dyestuff to get back to your original colour.
We may be able to reactivate the dormant dyestuff to resurface through the hydrating process. Meanwhile, like to see the overall appearance of this cushion.

Roger,

I'm taking my time getting this done since I'm working like 12 hour days. I took several pictures of my progress.

I've been only using the degreaser and Rinse 3.0. I haven't taken the 3 day soak period. Why is the unknown substance spot (which I used the degreaser) seem lighter? Is this expected?

Anie

Roger Koh
10-14-2013, 10:52 AM
Roger,


I've been only using the degreaser and Rinse 3.0.

Why is the unknown substance spot (which I used the degreaser) seem lighter?

Is this expected?

Anie


>>> Why is the unknown substance spot (which I used the degreaser) seem lighter? Is this expected?

The lighter effect is due to the lost of dyestuff and fatliquor in the affected areas.
The 3 days soaking period is to help reduce this appearance by activating the dormant dyestuff and redistributing over this possible alkaline over exposure area.
Thereafter fatliquor replenishing will help to even out the appearance as well.
The entire system each process is contributing gradually working towards a better appearance and they are interlinked.


>>> I've been only using the Degreaser-2.2 and Rinse 3.0.

The Degreasing of the leather below surface is recommended to work in conjunction with Acidifier-2.0. pH 2.0 works ten time more effective than pH 3.0 to protonate the protein fiber more ionic positive (+ve), thus with increase of the ionic positive (+ve) charges it will attract the activated ionic negative (-ve) dyestuff during the hydrating process.


Tips:

The topcoat removing is not entire clean, any remnants that shows will be amplified when new topcoat is applied thereafter. To avoid a redo, it is recommend that the remnants are entirely removed. Technique of removing is either during the rinsing time with either Acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0 and during the hydrating time with Hydrator-3.3. During this wet cleaning process the leather structure when protonated will gain strength while the topcoat losses it strength. In practice leather tool like Razor-60 is best to accomplished the process of total removal.

apolastre
10-14-2013, 03:01 PM
>>> Why is the unknown substance spot (which I used the degreaser) seem lighter? Is this expected?

The lighter effect is due to the lost of dyestuff and fatliquor in the affected areas.
The 3 days soaking period is to help reduce this appearance by activating the dormant dyestuff and redistributing over this possible alkaline over exposure area.
Thereafter fatliquor replenishing will help to even out the appearance as well.
The entire system each process is contributing gradually working towards a better appearance and they are interlinked.


>>> I've been only using the Degreaser-2.2 and Rinse 3.0.

The Degreasing of the leather below surface is recommended to work in conjunction with Acidifier-2.0. pH 2.0 works ten time more effective than pH 3.0 to protonate the protein fiber more ionic positive (+ve), thus with increase of the ionic positive (+ve) charges it will attract the activated ionic negative (-ve) dyestuff during the hydrating process.


Tips:

The topcoat removing is not entire clean, any remnants that shows will be amplified when new topcoat is applied thereafter. To avoid a redo, it is recommend that the remnants are entirely removed. Technique of removing is either during the rinsing time with either Acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0 and during the hydrating time with Hydrator-3.3. During this wet cleaning process the leather structure when protonated will gain strength while the topcoat losses it strength. In practice leather tool like Razor-60 is best to accomplished the process of total removal.

Roger,

I started the 3 day soak period with Fatigor today. I will take a picture after this process is complete. I did see remnants of the old topcoat and so I'll look at your website for the razor 60.

Anie

Roger Koh
10-15-2013, 09:04 AM
Roger,

I started the 3 day soak period with Fatigor today. I will take a picture after this process is complete.

Anie


>>> I started the 3-day soak period with Fatliguor today.

Product use should be Hydrator-3.3 instead.

Some purposes for using Hydrator-3.3 during this process:
c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively.

Tips:
1. Ensure that the leather is well saturated with moisture oozing out when press between thumb and finger.
2. Control evaporation by cling wrapping it with a good even surface contact without airspace.
3. May need replenishing when leather looks too dry.


>>> I will take a picture after this process is complete.

Please show before pictures as well.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com

apolastre
10-27-2013, 02:20 PM
Hi Roger. Today, I completed all 3 sections I'm having problems with.

With the unknown substance (picture 1), I took the razor and removed all the old top coat and stain. On the unknown stain, when I put the hydrator 3.3 and fatigor and I'm letting it dwell for 3 days, I noticed that a Yellow color is penatrating through the tissue paper. What is this? The darker section, does not seem to blend in with the surrounding section. Maybe we misdiagnosed the problem as being a grease stain? What else could it be and why is a Yellow color penetrating through the tissue paper?

For picture 2 and 3, I removed the wrong stain color and stripped the entire section of the original top coat and stain. I'm currently letting it dwell for the next 3 days with hydratod 3.3 and if needed, keeping the moisture with fatigor.

I have an airbrush, and I still haven't attempted to combine the different stains to arrive at the closest "cognac" color. I read, is that the intesity of the color needs to build up, so I need to spray and then let it dry first? Do I let it dry overnight? or within a couple of hours before applying the next build of dye?

Before I apply the dye, I have to use Adhesor, correct? How long after I use Adhesor do I have to wait to apply the first coat of dye stuff?

After I dye the section, how long until I apply top coat?

I was going to go section by section, but with this process, I will never finish.

I also purchased more items, plus the ink removal, because I didn't see it in my collection of things, and picture number 2 has ink that needs removing first before proceeding to the next steps.

Thanks,

Anie

Roger Koh
10-28-2013, 12:26 PM
>>> With the unknown substance (picture 1), I took the razor and removed all the old top coat and stain. On the unknown stain, when I put the hydrator 3.3 and fatigor and I'm letting it dwell for 3 days, I noticed that a Yellow color is penatrating through the tissue paper. What is this? The darker section, does not seem to blend in with the surrounding section. Maybe we misdiagnosed the problem as being a grease stain? What else could it be and why is a Yellow color penetrating through the tissue paper?

#1 - Pen Marks: Compound with color matching it too dark!
Please show pictures for proper reference.
The tissue paper yellow stains are most probably fugitive dyestuff that has break hydrogen-bonds with the protein fiber. The original stains could be alkaline, solution used to remove may also be alkaline that shift the amphoteric protein fiber ionic negative (-ve). This is also simply refer to as dye bleeding due to alkaline over-exposure. To correct the situation is to protonate the protein fiber ionic more positive (+ve) with the help of
Acidifier-2.0.
The darker section could be the cause of tannin stains derived from plants and vegetation and as it ages, it browns and darkens – please refer to the Leather Problem Solving Guide under Tannin-Based: Wine, Coffee, Tea, Juices & Beer for such treatment.


>>>For picture 2 and 3, I removed the wrong stain color and stripped the entire section of the original top coat and stain. I'm currently letting it dwell for the next 3 days with Hydrator-3.3 and if needed, keeping the moisture with Fatiquor-5.0.

Please show pictures of existing condition in progress.


>>> I have an airbrush, and I still haven't attempted to combine the different stains to arrive at the closest "cognac" color. I read, is that the intesity of the color needs to build up, so I need to spray and then let it dry first? Do I let it dry overnight? or within a couple of hours before applying the next build of dye? Before I apply the dye, I have to use Adhesor, correct? How long after I use Adhesor do I have to wait to apply the first coat of dyestuff? After I dye the section, how long until I apply topcoat? I was going to go section by section, but with this process, I will never finish.

I strongly do not recommend that you should do any dyeing unless you want to do beyond just the three cushions – It is unlikely you will match with the rest.

If you are just doing the three cushion – drop the dyeing – do not use it – don’t.

You may used the Adhesor-73 to correct the surface skin damages – it will smoothen the skin as well as giving you a darkening effect, this is best spray to control a more even distribution of the Adhesor-73 until satisfaction and any surface roughness is corrected with 2000grit sanding. Topcoat will again magnify or amplify the color intensity. This recommendation is to reduce color-matching problems. Note that working with “Transparent” aniline color has its pros and cons. The cons is “what you see is not what you get” it will depends on the existing base color, absorbency rate and intensity is also build up by layers of application. I suggest not jumping into it with redying just the 3 cushions – that is my advice until you have some practices with some scrap leathers of similar types or on the reverse side of the cushion.


>>> I also purchased more items, plus the ink removal, because I didn't see it in my collection of things, and picture number 2 has ink that needs removing first before proceeding to the next steps.

Ink contains dyestuff; your leather is colored with dyestuff as well. Removing ink from aniline leathers will require a lower pH, that is used Prep-4.4 instead of Prep-7.7 a.k.a Ink Remover 7.7 (as the leather may be discolored as well in the process – and need to be corrected with Hydrator-3.3 to redistribute existing dyestuff from surrounding areas to even out the lightening effect from the Prep-4.4 a.k.a. Ink Remover-4.4)

apolastre
10-31-2013, 05:05 PM
>>> With the unknown substance (picture 1), I took the razor and removed all the old top coat and stain. On the unknown stain, when I put the hydrator 3.3 and fatigor and I'm letting it dwell for 3 days, I noticed that a Yellow color is penatrating through the tissue paper. What is this? The darker section, does not seem to blend in with the surrounding section. Maybe we misdiagnosed the problem as being a grease stain? What else could it be and why is a Yellow color penetrating through the tissue paper?

#1 - Pen Marks: Compound with color matching it too dark!
Please show pictures for proper reference.
The tissue paper yellow stains are most probably fugitive dyestuff that has break hydrogen-bonds with the protein fiber. The original stains could be alkaline, solution used to remove may also be alkaline that shift the amphoteric protein fiber ionic negative (-ve). This is also simply refer to as dye bleeding due to alkaline over-exposure. To correct the situation is to protonate the protein fiber ionic more positive (+ve) with the help of
Acidifier-2.0.
The darker section could be the cause of tannin stains derived from plants and vegetation and as it ages, it browns and darkens – please refer to the Leather Problem Solving Guide under Tannin-Based: Wine, Coffee, Tea, Juices & Beer for such treatment.


>>>For picture 2 and 3, I removed the wrong stain color and stripped the entire section of the original top coat and stain. I'm currently letting it dwell for the next 3 days with Hydrator-3.3 and if needed, keeping the moisture with Fatiquor-5.0.

Please show pictures of existing condition in progress.


>>> I have an airbrush, and I still haven't attempted to combine the different stains to arrive at the closest "cognac" color. I read, is that the intesity of the color needs to build up, so I need to spray and then let it dry first? Do I let it dry overnight? or within a couple of hours before applying the next build of dye? Before I apply the dye, I have to use Adhesor, correct? How long after I use Adhesor do I have to wait to apply the first coat of dyestuff? After I dye the section, how long until I apply topcoat? I was going to go section by section, but with this process, I will never finish.

I strongly do not recommend that you should do any dyeing unless you want to do beyond just the three cushions – It is unlikely you will match with the rest.

If you are just doing the three cushion – drop the dyeing – do not use it – don’t.

You may used the Adhesor-73 to correct the surface skin damages – it will smoothen the skin as well as giving you a darkening effect, this is best spray to control a more even distribution of the Adhesor-73 until satisfaction and any surface roughness is corrected with 2000grit sanding. Topcoat will again magnify or amplify the color intensity. This recommendation is to reduce color-matching problems. Note that working with “Transparent” aniline color has its pros and cons. The cons is “what you see is not what you get” it will depends on the existing base color, absorbency rate and intensity is also build up by layers of application. I suggest not jumping into it with redying just the 3 cushions – that is my advice until you have some practices with some scrap leathers of similar types or on the reverse side of the cushion.


>>> I also purchased more items, plus the ink removal, because I didn't see it in my collection of things, and picture number 2 has ink that needs removing first before proceeding to the next steps.

Ink contains dyestuff; your leather is colored with dyestuff as well. Removing ink from aniline leathers will require a lower pH, that is used Prep-4.4 instead of Prep-7.7 a.k.a Ink Remover 7.7 (as the leather may be discolored as well in the process – and need to be corrected with Hydrator-3.3 to redistribute existing dyestuff from surrounding areas to even out the lightening effect from the Prep-4.4 a.k.a. Ink Remover-4.4)


_______________________________

I will take pictures tomorrow, but I thought that after stripping the top coat and the dye, I would have to redye the section, but if you're saying that by spraying Adhesor that will bring out the old dormant dye, then I'll try this first.

Anie

Roger Koh
11-02-2013, 02:51 PM
>>> but I thought that after stripping the top coat and the dye, I would have to redye the section,

You are not stripping the dyes per se, just the topcoat.

The dyes are infused into the thickness of the leather, and most cases will be reactivated with Hydrator-3.3 especially when they are not contaminated (especially the sunfading discoloration). When unknown products are introduced during the fail attempt, it makes the reactivating much more difficult and will require a longer well saturated hydrating to bring the surrounding dyestuff to redistribute the affected areas. Besides just the dyestuff other leather constituents will collectively contribute to the overall appearance either by amplifying saturating it further thus:

Acidifier-2.0 – helps protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to increase the ionic attraction with the ionic negative (-ve) dyestuff or control bleeding or stabilizing the hydrogen bond between the protein fiber and the dyestuff.

Hydrator-3.3 – helps redistribute dyestuff to dye damages areas, besides protonating the protein fiber.

Fatliquor-5.0 – helps to season the color and impart intensity to the leather as well.

Adhesor-73 – helps saturating the color intensity and has to be well control to avoid uneven absorption that leads to patchiness or blotchiness.

AnilineTop-76G or AnilineTop-21G – magnified and amplified the intensity of the color.

So the above gives you an idea that all steps in this holistic system brings closer and contribute dovetailing to the final desired result.

Note: avoid dyeing until you wish to have all the entire sectional be done all at one time, otherwise, they will never appear all even throughout, unless we are talking about dark brown or black.


>>> but if you're saying that by spraying Adhesor that will bring out the old dormant dye, then I'll try this first.

Adhesor-73 function is not to bring out the old dormant dye, this is the function of Acidifier-2.0 to pH balance the affected areas prior to Hydrator-3.3 to redistribute the dormant dyestuff.

apolastre
11-02-2013, 07:39 PM
>>> but I thought that after stripping the top coat and the dye, I would have to redye the section,

You are not stripping the dyes per se, just the topcoat.

The dyes are infused into the thickness of the leather, and most cases will be reactivated with Hydrator-3.3 especially when they are not contaminated (especially the sunfading discoloration). When unknown products are introduced during the fail attempt, it makes the reactivating much more difficult and will require a longer well saturated hydrating to bring the surrounding dyestuff to redistribute the affected areas. Besides just the dyestuff other leather constituents will collectively contribute to the overall appearance either by amplifying saturating it further thus:

Acidifier-2.0 – helps protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to increase the ionic attraction with the ionic negative (-ve) dyestuff or control bleeding or stabilizing the hydrogen bond between the protein fiber and the dyestuff.

Hydrator-3.3 – helps redistribute dyestuff to dye damages areas, besides protonating the protein fiber.

Fatliquor-5.0 – helps to season the color and impart intensity to the leather as well.

Adhesor-73 – helps saturating the color intensity and has to be well control to avoid uneven absorption that leads to patchiness or blotchiness.

AnilineTop-76G or AnilineTop-21G – magnified and amplified the intensity of the color.

So the above gives you an idea that all steps in this holistic system brings closer and contribute dovetailing to the final desired result.

Note: avoid dyeing until you wish to have all the entire sectional be done all at one time, otherwise, they will never appear all even throughout, unless we are talking about dark brown or black.


>>> but if you're saying that by spraying Adhesor that will bring out the old dormant dye, then I'll try this first.

Adhesor-73 function is not to bring out the old dormant dye, this is the function of Acidifier-2.0 to pH balance the affected areas prior to Hydrator-3.3 to redistribute the dormant dyestuff.

The pictures are the Pen marks and darker dye (wrong color), the unknown substance (which you can still see the darker spot), and the super glue.

I purchased the Aniline 76, which I thought was dye, so are you saying that if I use this, I have to strip the entire sectional?

Please help me understand the next steps. With the unknown substance, I ordered the D'Tanning, so I'm not doing anything with that until I get it. Also, I ran out of Hydrator and Fatigor.

So what should I do next?

Roger Koh
11-04-2013, 12:40 PM
>>> The pictures are the Pen marks and darker dye (wrong color), the unknown substance (which you can still see the darker spot), and the super glue.

Have to guess which is which (easier if you could have a number and description to the picture both the before and after for comparison how far you have improve on them.

Tips:

Besides the surrounding areas within the panel you want to shave off the topcoat so that they look even throughout (otherwise the continuous process will highlight, amplify or magnify them, then they become obvious.

The stain itself may require further attention – so a close up picture will help.

The surrounding rings of darkening effect are the non-comparable products that have compounded the problem and need to be neutralized and removed – best effort is to use Hydrator-3.3 working in conjunction with paper towel and plastic wrapper to control evaporation so that the foreign contamination is trapped by the paper tissue or towel while the leather constituents balance up and redistribute itself.


>>> I purchased the Aniline 76, which I thought was dye, so are you saying that if I use this, I have to strip the entire sectional?

Aniline-76 is a coating dyestuff, while Aniline-21 is a staining dyestuff. The Anilne-21 stains into the leather, the Aniline-76 coats the surface. All these dyes can be used depends what you want to achieve and taking into consideration of the existing condition of the leather to produce the best result.

In most of aniline redyeing situation, because of its existing topcoat that will prevent even absorption, a coating dyestuff Aniline-76 is preferred. Another consideration is the remnants of the stain that proves stubborn that not only it has uneven absorbent rate the pH of the stain areas may differ from surrounding areas thus when an absorbent dyestuff like Aniline-21 is used you will have difference in shade and the stains still stands out. Thus for most aniline leathers that require a refinishing with dyes and topcoat, Aniline-76 is preferred. Another consideration is to go deeper in color saturation so that the existing stains are camouflage (remember that aniline dyes are transparent – so there is no way to have a coverup). Taking into consideration of the time issue that you have and not going to do anything with the rest of the pieces, I would not recommend that you apply “dye” of any kind, just skip the dyeing part, you may get the appearance much closer than you try to use “dyes” of any kind, as they will not match up with your existing color. Aniline dyestuff is subject to UV light fading and the original color has already being distorted or lightens through the years. Fresh application will look fresh even if they are taken from the same bottle – so they are not going to be looking all even – unless you want to refinish the entire sectional using the same process.

Here are the info for Aniline-76
Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff that is design for coating over existing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes.

To stain directly into leather with no impeding topcoat use Aniline-21 instead.

Use AnilineTop-76 thereafter to seal dyestuff from crocking or bleeding that also decides the luster with either gloss or matte, or a mix for a satin luster.


Tips:
1. Strip existing finishes, use – Stripper-2.3.
2. Degreasing, use – Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
3. Reduce color intensity, use – Adhesor-73.

Application Instruction:
1. Shake very well and apply by padding, brushing or for professional result use airbrushing to avoid streaks.
2. Blow dry in-between coats until desired result is achieved.

Tips:
1. To hydrate stiff leathers, use – Hydrator-3.3.
2. To soften leathers, use – Fatliquor-5.0

Topcoat:
1. For a gloss finish, use AnilineTop-76G.
2. For a matte finish, use AnilineTop-76M.
3. For a satin finish, mix an equal part of gloss and matte.

Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
Use buttery-feel leather-scented Protector-B+ or scentless Protector-B.

>>> Please help me understand the next steps. With the unknown substance, I ordered the D'Tanning, so I'm not doing anything with that until I get it. Also, I ran out of Hydrator and Fatigor.

Information for d’Tannin-3.5, unless the stain is vegetations and plants derive, otherwise hydrating to wick them out is still the normal practice.
Leather Doctor® d’Tannin-3.5 is a pH 3.5 aqueous leather-safe tannin stain remover for removing cellulose stains such as coffee, tea, wine and some dyes. Stains that derive from vegetations and plants will probably be removed with this product. It is for all leather types including pigmented, Aniline, Vachetta, Nubuck, Suede, Hair-on-Hide and Woolskin.

Instruction:

1. Test for discoloration on a hidden area - check when dry as it may strip some dyes.
2. A thorough cleaning is necessary for compound stains prior to application.

The main purpose for Hydrator-3.3 for stain removal is:
e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.

The function of Fatliquor-5.0
Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0, a micro emulsion of fat, oil and water is an anionic charged pH 5.0 fatliquor for rejuvenating all leather types. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when hydrogen bond attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.


>>> So what should I do next?

1 Have close-up pictures of the stains (please number them and have describe steps taken so far) – to see how best to continue.
2 The darkening surround stains have to be pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 follows with Hydrator-3.3 dwelling and wicking them through tissue paper.
3 Further shave the existing topcoat if any clean with Razor-60 (shave them at an angle backward avoid slicing the surface either damp with Rinse-3.0 while wet for better result).