Pigmented (Micro or Semi-Aniline) - Wax Pull-Up Sofa Body Oil Stains

[scscomp]

Here are some pics of my 20+ year old Wax Pull-up Sofa. There are stains of some type on the seat and back cushions and a nasty head oil stain on the arm rest cushion.

Pic #1 is the full sofa.
Pic #2 shows a close up of the stains.
Pic #3 shows the head rest cushion with the
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gifhttp://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/images/attach/jpg.gif

Most of the cleaning I've attempted has been on the arm rest cushion. Steps taken are as follows:

1. Using a 50:50 mix of water and dish washing liquid, I saturated the front and back sides of the cushion and massaged the mixture into the leather. I followed this with clean water to remove as much of the detergent as possible.

2. Next, I made multiple applications (3 or 4) of leather degreaser to the front and back sides of the cushion. I vacuumed the dried white residue off and, each time, it left a very fine coating of the white residue. It didn't seem to matter how strong the vacuum was or how many times drew the wand over the leather, the very fine coating remained. To remove it, I used Mothers VLT (Vinyl, Leather, Rubber) Cleaner to remove the fine coating. Each time I removed the coating with the cleaner. I rubbed really hard with a cotton cleaning rag. I think the rubbing may have caused degradation of the leather.

Area 1 and 2 in Pic #3 is now very rough and degraded. Using a loupe, I can see the individual cells of the hide are very black. The recesses between the cells is white. I am assuming the white color in the recesses is the remaining white residue the leather cleaner could not remove.

Area 3 in Pic #3 is smooth to the touch and does not seem degraded.

3. Using the leather cleaner, I made multiple applications (5 or 6) to seat and back cushions. A LOT of brown dirt and perhaps surface grease came off each time I made an application with the cleaner. Next, I made one application to the top side of each of the 2 seat cushions with the leather degreaser. You can see the areas where I applied the degreaser on the seat cushions as, these areas have the same white cast as the arm rest cushion.

[Roger Koh]

I think the rubbing may have caused degradation of the leather.





Welcome to the forum and thank you for the posting.

The products that you have used causes the degradation of the leather, rubbing just makes it look obvious.

The pH of leather ranges from 3-5.

Leather is pH sensitive; just like water, is temperature sensitive and will change its nature at the molecular level resulting in steam and ice. Leather will likewise change its nature when exposed to fluctuation of pH value. What you have experience with all these alkaline products have accelerate the denaturing process of the leather.

The original cause of degradation is from the sweat that contains traces of ammonia that ferments by the natural bacteria from the atmosphere that shift its pH alkaline.

The neutral pH of leather average 4 is also referred to as the pI (iso-electric point) of leather.

How this denaturing or degradation take place, we have to understand how leather is made or process from the hides and skins of animals. It is simply the protein fibers that is left behind after all the other component is left out prior to infusing chemicals to preserve the skin making it non-perishable with tanning agents.

Merely making the leather non-perishable is not enough for using as covering for our furniture; we will require the softness and suppleness to make it practical. That is how the softening process comes in with infusing the tanned leather with fatliquor (fat, oil and water). Fatliquor is done at the very last after dyes for aesthetic is selected.

All the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor constitute the other component of the leather. They are mostly ionic negatively (-ve) charged so that they hydrogen bond with the ionic positively (+ve) charged leather protein fiber.

At the pH range of 3 – 5 they remain stable, with all the suppleness and strength, a natural material that can withstand extreme fluctuation of climatic condition use both the Arctic region as sledge harnesses and the Sahara desert as belts for the tanks during the IIWW.

However, the protein component of the leather is “amphoteric” they are unstable under influence of pH value. Solution that has a pH value higher than the average pH value of 4 also known as the pI of leather will shift the protein fiber ionic negative (-ve).

When the protein fiber losses its positive (+ve) attraction and shifting it negative (-ve), the other constituents like tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor leaches away. At the molecular level behaving just like magnetic forces, “like poles repel”.

Breaking of the hydrogen bond with the tanning agent will result in tackiness or sliminess of the leather, with the dyestuff shows bleeding and with the fatliquor result in dryness and stiffness and when further massaged or flex will crack.

This so far explains that the products used are not leather-safe that is the cause of the degradation and the rubbing just proves that the damaged is done.


The first step for restoration is to restore the leather chemistry integrity.

Any questions so far, before we continue.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[scscomp]

Attaching close up of Area 2.

[Roger Koh]

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/SteveSofa.jpg

What I can figure out from this picture is:

The red marked areas showing the degree of leather damage from micro to macro cracking – this multiple areas have weaken significantly. Restoration to strengthen these areas will require Impregnator-26. This product is basically a leather sealer that will tighten the structure and close-up the looseness. It is a protein and resin ingredient formulation that applies becomes part of leather. The setback for such repairs on aniline leather will result a darkening effect just like some repairs to varnish wood. To retain the original characteristic of the leather a transparent dyestuff is used and these darkening effects will show unless we match up with the intensity of the repair with darker dyestuff to camouflage.

The blue marked areas highlight the collection of white residue from the degreaser used. May you show in picture what product you used (including the others) so that we know how best to get rid, decontaminate or neutralize their continuous leather denaturing exposure. An overall restoration cleaning would involve Degreaser-2.2, this is a waterbased degreaser that has a pH value of 2.2. It is designed to both degrease and stabilize the pH integrity of the leather simultaneously follows with Rinse-3.0 a pH 3.0 rinse to return the leather to its neutral pH of 3 - 5.

The green arrows show the difference in color when the leather is stretch or fading from UV lightings. To determine the degrees of color loss, a picture with contrast between used and unused part of the leather will help to determine the extent of restoration is necessary.

Please show pictures as proposed.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[scscomp]

Attaching pic of products used and method of application.

[Roger Koh]

Mothers pH. = 7.7

Dawn pH @ 10% = 9

Leather Degreaser = Organic Solvent, pH not applicable
Although this product has no pH value, the solvent removes the fatliquor as well that causes dryness to the leather that leads to micro cracks. Fatliquor replenishing is always recommended after all leather degreasing, as fatliquor (fat and oil) will be removed as well as other unwanted grease. A healthy leather contains up to 14% of fatliquor even though it feels dry.

What is pH you may ask, it simply represents the potential of hydrogen ion, the positive (+ve) ionic charges in relation to the potential of the hydroxyl ion, the negative (-ve) ionic charges. The pH scales extends from 0 to 14. 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline. A solution’s pH increases in strength as it moves each whole number away from the neutral of 7 by a factor of 10.

The iso-electric point of leather averages pH 4.

Dawn solution pH at 10% dilution is 9 (you used a 50% dilution, the pH then should be higher than 9)

Calculating, the difference between pH 9 and 4 by the factor of 10, the solution is 100’000 times alkaline over exposure.

Mothers cleaners pH alkaline over exposure is almost close to 10’000 times in ionic differences.

These kinds of alkaline overexposure at the molecular level where our eyes cannot see do the damages to the leather.

Moreover, the fatliquor leaches out when a solvent product you used compounded the dryness, besides the residue need to be clean up as well.

A] Solution to the problem to balance the pH of leather and removes the unwanted residue is simultaneously perform in the degreasing process:

A.1] Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0 (the suffix of the products denotes its pH value).

B] Solution to restore the suppleness of the leather is performed by:

B.1] Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0

Thereafter the repairs of the leather is performed by the help of Impregnator-26 mentioned earlier.

The color to camouflaged the repairs has to be determined if the original characteristic of the leather remains unchanged.

If you please, would like to see the original leather with direction comparison to the damaged areas and other faded areas as well.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[scscomp]

Don't understand your request. Pic #2 shows original leather. Do you mean original un-faded leather?

[Roger Koh]

Yes, show the original un-faded leather?

Reverse the middle cushion and take a look of the unused, un-exposed leather - this is what you may want the leather to look after restoration, don't you?

[scscomp]

Actually, I don't want to keep the same color. Due to the extensive fading, I want to dye the entire suite darker. However, I probably don't want to go as dark as the sofa arm rest cushion as it it almost black. I would prefer to lighten this area first and then choose a medium brown or medium reddish brown color to dye the suite.

Attaching pic of comparison of original (un-faded) leather and arm rest cushion.

[Roger Koh]

We need to establish and confirm the leather types before we can discuss about color.

A wax pull-up is a distress aniline fashion-effect.

The characteristic of a pull-up will lighten in color where it is stretch and may revert when heat or rubbing in applied.

This special effect emulsion infused into the leather plays the part of distressing effect and contributes to the overall color effect.

If it is gloss aniline, color comes direct from dyestuff and topcoat alone.

Therefore, knowing the leather type is vital to recreate the color.

Top picture look like Wax Pull-Up Aniline, while the below picture looks like gloss aniline.

Sharper picture of unused areas may help further.

A stretch-test and a scratch-test can further help in identification the difference.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[scscomp]

When I run my finger, stretching the leather upward, on the back side of the leather, the stretched are gets lighter, almost white. The same thing happens when I scratch the leather. When I rub the stretched or scratched area with my finger, the color returns. The cushion that is took a picture of to show the original leather is also glossy. The camera just didn't pick-up the finish because of the angle of the subject. The sofa is 20+ years old. It's kind of amazing to me there is any gloss at all left on the surface.:)

[Roger Koh]

If you pull or stretch the above pictures that mark in green, does it show lightening up in those areas as well?

You only tested the back side of the leather.

Please do test on the green mark areas - to determine if that is wax that resurface or soiling that produces the darkening effect.

Another test on the unused area should produce greater contrast.

Let us know your findings

[scscomp]

Yes. Any area, the original leather, the faded leather, any area, including the areas marked in green, lightens when I stretch it. When I rub on the stretched area, the color returns.

[Roger Koh]

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Aw.jpg
Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.w) – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers

This Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Problem Solving Guide will be used as reference to your problem.

The left column is where an inspection besides the major armrest problem is determined.

The top across are the recommended products for the problem.

The numbers indicates the sequence of process.

The general sequence of process can still be further condense into 1] Cleaning, 2] Conditioning, 3] Repairs & 4] Refinishing.

Cleaning and stain removal ends at Hydrator-3.3 where a final inspection takes place and all stains that can be removed should be done during the wet phase. This cleaning would include existing topcoat removal to reduce uneven dye absorption during the dyeing process. A dry inspection after the surface has gone over with leather Eraser-4 will decide, if it is ready to accept dyeing.

Unlike a straightforward dyeing from new leather in the tannery, aniline is usually “stain dye” deep into the leather. The result of stain dyeing is still unpredictable as when the original leather has uneven grain tightness that differs from part to part of hide it may show what is known as a savage look.

A used leather going through a tannery standard re-dying process has the problem of uneven wear to the topcoat that will impede the dye to stain with an even appearance as well. It is during the wet cleaning process that will reveal most of the time where the topcoat has wears off. This unevenness of appearance has to be even out by removing the topcoat, so that new application will take on a more even appearance. It is also during the wet stages where leather-safe solution (pH 3 – 5) is used that strengthen the leather and weakens the topcoat that makes removal easier than when dry. The blotchy wet darkening effect if any will show where the existing topcoat should be removed. Alternatively, if removing the existing topcoat proves tedious, a coating dyestuff is used instead. Then Dye-76 is used instead of Dye-21.

When penetrating Dye-21 is to be used for very even absorption leather as observed during the final Hydrator-3.3 phase while checking for surface tension as well, the finishing process should follows this sequence.

1] Check that all stains are caught by tissue paper wrap, otherwise decide what reclean need to bring out penetrated stain with final Hydrator-3.3 tissue paper check when dry.

2] Dry Preparation – This done to smooth any surface rough to the touch especially to the micro or macro crack areas.

3] Structural Repair – This is accomplished with Impregnator-26 to tighten up the loose grains.

4] Dyeing is done best by spraying for easy control of intensity of color build-up.

5] Fatliquor-5.0 Replenish – This application will soften and strengthen up the leather when dry.

6] Wax Effect-8.6 Replenish – This application will restore the pull-up effect.

7] Adhesor-73 is to ensure that the topcoat have proper adhesion over the wax effect surface.

8] Topcoat-79G adds the gloss and amplify the intensity of the appearance further.

9] Protection-B+ is recommended to reduce friction wear.


When Dye-76 is used instead for coating over existing topcoat the sequence should be as recommended:


1] Check that all stains are caught by tissue paper wrap; otherwise decide what re-clean need to bring out penetrated stain with final Hydrator-3.3 tissue paper check when dry.

2] Dry Preparation – This done to smooth any surface rough to the touch especially to the micro or macro crack areas.

3] Fatliquor-5.0 Replenish – This application will soften and strengthen up the leather when dry.

4] Wax Effect-8.6 Replenish – This application will restore the pull-up effect.

5] Structural Repair – This is accomplished with Impregnator-26 to tighten up the loose grains.

6] Adhesor-73 is to ensure that the topcoat have proper adhesion over the wax effect surface.

7] Dyeing is done best by spraying for easy control of intensity of color build-up.

8] Topcoat-79G adds the gloss and amplify the intensity of the appearance further.

9] Protection-B+ is recommended to reduce friction wear.


I hope that this preview will give an idea of the entire process with no surprises.

If you have any question from understanding the guide?

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[scscomp]

Don't really understand how the problem solving grid will help in my particular case. I have already degreased many times and cleaned with a off-the shelf leather cleaner (Mothers). My problem now is the hard, black crust that is the result of all the various degreasers and cleaning attempts I've made.

[Roger Koh]

Look at this thread:
http://www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com/forum/showthread.php?10387-Leather-is-gone-back-to-suede-on-my-aniline-leather-sofa-after-a-head-grease-stain-removal-what-can-I-do&highlight=stripper

Here the OP had a similar situation as mine on a wax pull-up sofa. You told him to use stripper to "remove any remaining finish" and apply Aniline 2.1 and top coat? Why is my situation different?


I accept that it may differ. How is my situation different? Pretend you are in class and a student asked this question, my good Professor.



Answer . . .


Leather Types:
1] Pull-up has one extra component in the structure to deal with.
This is a fashion distress effect, some loves it and some hates it.
When comes to restoration, one can decide to restore it or to skip it.
Otherwise the result may be disappointing either way.
This confusion need to be clear up and decided upon by the DIY or customer (from a service provider).

Condition from Appearance:
2] Compare the leather integrity with the other finish damages.
Yours is obviously damaged with micro and macro cracks developed.
An impregnation using Impregnator-26 is necessary to strengthen and tighten up the looseness.

Leather Denaturing:
3] A wet finger test may reveal stickiness of the leather damaged areas with sliminess at the extreme.
The black particulates is observed as the chromium salt (tanning agent) breaking of the hydrogen bond and leaching out.
Leather protein fiber is "amphoteric", the theory of pH value and the pI (iso-electric point) applies and have taken effect or evidently manifested in appearance.
The tanning agent is to convert the hides/skins non-perishable.
A healthy leather will feel squeaky with wet finger testing, a denatured leather will feel tacky to slimy in extreme case and may revert the hides/skins to rawhide.
Therefore, the chemistry integrity of the existing leather need to be restored and is done with pH below the pI of leather.
Recommended products is by Degreaser-2.2 (pH 2.2) > Acidifier-2.0 (pH.2.0).
Besides removing deeper penetrated oil, grease and sweat, more than a solvent product can do; it protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) and re attract the ionic negative (-ve) tanning agent back in place.
When such phenomenon take effect the tacky feel of the leather revert to a squeaky feel again.
This effect stops the leather from denaturing into rawhide.

Leather Stiffness:
When leather becomes stiff from various reasons and when flex will leads to cracks.
From picture observation, the leather is progressive cracking.
To rectify this situation will require the leather to be hydrated with Hydrator-3.3.
Hydrator-3.3 has other active function all build in, here we like to see that the dried and stiff fibers are relaxed.
An effective hydrating process may takes up to 72 hours under plastic wrap.
All suspended foreign particulates will thereafter be towel extracted or trapped by using tissue paper.
It is only when all foreign soiling is removed during this last step of the cleaning process and check for satisfaction that fatliquor replenishing commence.
If leather is able to be hydrated, it will be able to be soften up as soft as you wish.

Leather Wax Pull-up Replenishing:
This is an option with Wax Effect-8.6.

What you see above is the different you have to take as compare with the other finish damage.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[scscomp]

OK. So I will need Impregnator 2.6, Degreaser 2.2, Acidifier 2.0, Hydrator 3.3 and Wax Effect 8.6, correct? Will I need any cleaner? After I use the Hydrator 3.3, will I need to scrub with the Eraser to remove the black crusty area? Will this process bring the stained area back to a normal appearance?

[Roger Koh]

OK. So I will need Impregnator 2.6, Degreaser 2.2, Acidifier 2.0, Hydrator 3.3 and Wax Effect 8.6, correct? Will I need any cleaner? After I use the Hydrator 3.3, will I need to scrub with the Eraser to remove the black crusty area? Will this process bring the stained area back to a normal appearance?


The restoration process should follow this product flow sequence:

1]
Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0

2]
Hydrator-3.3 > Wet Surface Tension Inspection > Dry Appearance Inspection > Optional Chrome Tanning Stain treatment with d’Tarnish-1.3

3]
Fatliquor-5.0

4]
Wax Effect-8.6 (optional)

5]
Impregnator-26

6]
Dry Preparation as Necessary

7]
Adhesor-73

8]
Transparent Dyeing with Dye-21 or Dye-76 based on 2] above.

9]
Topcoat-79G

10]
Protector-D+ for Wax Pull-up
Or Protector-B+ for Gloss Aniline.


Will I need any cleaner?

Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 overrides other cleaner unless other specialty is necessary accordingly to Guide.


After I use the Hydrator 3.3, will I need to scrub with the Eraser to remove the black crusty area?

The black crusty color may derive from the fugitives Chrome Tanning Agent that transform rawhides into leather. Using d’Tarnish-1.3 may be a better solution to undo the adverse chemical reaction results from high pH alkaline solution from the dishwashing detergent used. As the leather is already weaken, mechanical agitation is reduced to a minimum. Eraser-4 only removes from the grain top, a detailing horsehair brush is necessary to remove from the valley of the grain or cracks.

Will this process bring the stained area back to a normal appearance?

What we do is based on science and logic.

A healing wound will shows its scar just like any healing skin.

In most situations, a darker shade to camouflage these becoming natural defect or blemishes is inevitable.

We are talking about using “transparent” dyestuff either by staining or by coating.

When other system talks about coating, they are talking about an “opaque pigmented coating”.

Leather Doctor® Wax Pull-up system have been in practice since 2009 as the forum pictures show and have keep on improving since.

[scscomp]

I understand the Leather Doctor dye will be used to go over the wax coating. I am certain this method will produce an excellent restoration. However, I prefer to have a restoration that is as close to the original state of the leather as possible. Is there any way I can purchase a Leather Doctor product to first, remove the existing wax coating then, apply a dye that will incorporate into the top layer of the leather and finally, apply a top coat that looks and feels similar to the original wax coating?

[Roger Koh]

If we follow the original tannery dry process then the surface topcoat has to be removed, just like any wood vanishing will require, undo the varnishing to redo.

This stripping process is done with Stripper-2.3, the way any varnish from a wooden furnishing is strip prior to varnish refinishing.

The stripper is water-based, has a pH of 2.3 to control bleeding while the topcoat is stripped. As it is waterbased, it is also easier to check the surface tension while the darkening effect takes place. As long as the surface is broken for direct access for Dye-21 to stain the protein fiber evenly, the task is accomplished.

This method will return the leather to the original state, with no extra build-up.

This finer refinishing for Aniline Wax Pull-up will follow this sequence.

1] Stripper-2.3 – to remove all existing topcoat that will impede dye staining.

2] Dye-21 – A transparent dyestuff that stains with no build-up.

3] Hydrator-3.3 – To relax stick together fiber and precondition for Fatliquor-5.0

4] Fatliquor-5.0 – To soften and strengthen leather when dry.

5] Wax Effect-8.6 – To restore the pull up effect.

6] Adhesor-73 – To promote adhesion for Topcoat-79G

7] Protection-D+ - Scuff repairer to restore or reset the lightening stretching effect.


Problem is when working with a pH sensitive material like leather, we need to have plan B and Dye-76 is the plan B if plan A fails in some areas.

In practice, we have to take the worst area and assess from there.

The damaged armrest is already a clear sign that plan A will fail.

Besides, if the leather is to be retained as “Aniline” with see-through beauty, we have to compromise a color that will camouflage the repaired damages.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[Roger Koh]

A leather stripped of its finish should look cleaner than this picture

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/2004-01-01P1000671JPG216.jpg

[scscomp]

Please explain why Plan A will fail. My original leather is not "see through". The color is constant throughout. See pic I posted of original leather with damaged cushion. Are you thinking about Oil Pull-up? It's has a more mottled finish does have a somewhat see through effect. It is also much more expensive that Wax Pull-up.

1026

[Roger Koh]

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/nn4/Rogerkoh/Leather%20Upholstery/Pull-UpComparison-1.jpg


Pictures of “Oil Pull-up” are misidentified - these two pictures are “WAX PULL-UP”.

Picture of “Wax Pull-up” (my sofa) is not positively identified, could possibly be Aniline or Semi-Aniline. It is also describe as “the color is constant throughout” which rarely is associated to pull-up either wax or oil.

A “not "see through".” leather describe a Semi-Aniline more than Aniline.


Suggestion to further re-examine your leather.

Take pictures from the unused part of the leather will show the original finish.


Plan A is using “staining dye”, plan B is using “coating dye”.

Between the damaged areas and the general areas the leather absorbency rate is too great.
Where existing topcoat may impede dye penetration while the damage areas becomes too absorbent.
This difference in dye penetration will cause uneven appearance, where the dye absorbs more will be darker than the surface that absorbs less.

Plan B using a “coating dye” with the help of a sealer/adhesion coating reduces penetration on the damaged areas and where surface have scratches of topcoat damages.
Thus with the help of a sealer coating and coating dye will form a film of dyes on the surface will produce a more even appearance.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

[Roger Koh]

>>> I want to try an application of hydrator and fatliquor to see if I can make these darkened areas lighter.

The darkening effect is the result of chemical reaction between the urea turns ammonia that reacted with the chromium tanning agent. The most likely possibility is to use d'Tarnish-1.3 - Order the smallest size for a try. Will need to follow up with Basifier-8.8 to neutralize it. Leather safe is within the pH of 3 and 5.


>>> I already have some fatliquor I got at the local hardware store.

Fatliquor need to be at pH 5.0 - please order from the store.
Other non-tested called fat liquor may pose adhesion problem for new finishing.


>>> White Vinegar is pH 2.7.

White Vinegar will have its own characteristic that may pose a problem to the chemistry integrity of the leather. Another example of pH value with inherent undesirable characteristic - Coke has a pH value of 2.8 because of its phosphoric acid characteristic, it will dissolve a nail in about 4 days – not sure what it will do to the leather. The pH we talk about is "pure pH" without any of acidic characteristic that denature the leather or reverting the leather to rawhide.


>>> Could I just use that instead of your Hydrator?

Vinegar besides the side effect of its own characteristic not compatible with leather chemistry, it also lacks the surfactancy to relax the leather and moves the suspended soiling particulates to the surface.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Roger, checking around, I'm seeing that, cat urine stains, once dried into leather, cannot be removed. Like you said, the urine reacts with the tanning agent and, permanently darkens the leather. I am planning on going darker with my recliner and couch anyway. I would like to get enough medium brown dye and topcoat to do my recliner to see how well it covers the stains rather than try to get the cat urine stains lighter. What do you think?

It would be simpler to match close to your original color. Any darkening color from the urine reaction may be lighten with d’Tarnish-1.3 (test out with a thumb size paper towel from the kit with d’Tarnish-1.3 and leave it till dry for an inspection). The reduced darkening effect if any will be further be reduced with a first coating of white to even out the appearance prior to refinishing the original color.

More work when a color change is desired, we have to think about how these pieces of cushion is already attached as one unit in three dimensions. The wet coloring is not to come close with one another otherwise they stick together. All creases, crevices and corners have to be attended and that calls for experience to manage it, otherwise you will learn as you go for the first time.