Clarification of "Getting Sticky" kit instructions for restoring aniline B&B Italia sofa

[redB&BSofa]

Hi, my "Leather Getting Sticky Restoration Kit L7" will be arriving today, and I wanted some clarification regarding the instructions.


Background

I acquired this leather sofa second-hand about a year ago.

The production date is most likely late 80s - early 90s

The manufacturer is B&B Italia, model "Alanda"

The leather is most likely the original upholstery. I searched the B&B Italia material catalog to learn more about the leather that was used, but could not find an exact match.

The leather is full grain aniline, confirmed by unzipping the cushions and inspecting the suede side.

The finish of the leather was most likely originally matte. The surfaces such as frame, underside of arms, and covered portions of the cushions are all matte, however, the surfaces of the arm rests and back cushions are glossy, possibly due to wear, or some product used by the previous owner.










Issue

After acquiring the sofa, I noticed that the seating areas had a grippy, or tacky feel to them, as opposed to the other surfaces of the sofa which were smooth and allowed my hand to glide over them.

The problem is confined to the high traffic portions of the seating cushions, as in where butts make contact.

The tacky feel does not extend to portions of the affected panels that do not see high traffic, such as under the armrest. If I glide my hand over the panel of leather constituting the seating area, it will transition from tacky, on the top high traffic area, to smooth, on any portion of the panel that does not see traffic such as the front of the cushion and under the armrest.

The suede side of the affected areas also feels different than the suede side of the non-affected areas. The suede under the tacky areas feels almost damp, or possibly slightly oily, while the suede under the non-affected areas feels dry.


Attempted Fixes and Products Used

Upon acquiring the sofa, I vacuumed any debris and wiped all leather surfaces with Weiman leather wipes.

I had a local leather restoration technician, referred by B&B Italia, assess the sofa in-person, however the technician didn't know how to solve the issue, and recommended not attempting to fix it.

After research online, I could not find a satisfactory solution, but thought attempting to condition the leather wouldn't exacerbate the issue, so I performed one application of Bick 4 conditioner. The tacky surface remained unchanged.



Questions regarding use of "Leather Getting Sticky Restoration Kit L7"

Step 1 How to work with Cleaner 1.5 and Acidifier 2.0?

1* Dry soil removal before application.

2* Apply Cleaner 1.5 and work with horsehair Brush 1 and towel extract until the towel shows clean.

• When applying Cleaner 1.5, should I apply it directly to the leather, or apply it to the brush?

• Does "Towel Extract" mean to blot the leather after applying the cleaner?

• How much of the cleaner do I need to extract with the towel, as much as I possibly can?

• Does "shows clean" mean when there's no visible dirt on the towel, or until no more cleaner can be extracted?

3* Apply Acidifier 2.0 and work with horsehair Brush 1 to remove suspended residue and towel extract until the towel shows clean.

• Do I need to wash the brush before using it again in this step?

4* Repeat Acidifier 2.0 to saturate and dwell into the thickness of the leather to pH balance or neutralize, rinse, and towel extract until the sticky and tacky phenomenon diminishes. Proceed with Hydrator-3.3 while the leather is still wet and the sticky and tacky problem diminishes.

• Does this imply that after extracting Acidifier 2.0 with a towel, I then reapply it with the horsehair brush, or by "saturate" am I supposed to pour more of the Acidifier than used in the prior step onto the surface of the leather?

• By "dwell", am I supposed to leave the Acidifier on the leather for a certain time period?

• I'm not sure what "rinse" means in this context.

Step 2 How to work with Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0?

1* Apply Hydrator 3.3 and work with horsehair Brush 1 into the leather and towel extract until the towel shows clean. This deep rinsing with Hydrator 3.3 helps flush out foreign contamination that causes the sticky and tacky problem to improve further. This deep saturation also helps to redistribute the displaced tanning agents to increase the hydrogen bonding between the leather fiber and the tanning agents to preserve the leather from denaturing into sticky and tacky rawhide.

• Does "deep saturation" imply I should apply a larger amount than that of the Cleaner 1.5, for instance?

2* Apply Fatliquor 5.0 and work into the leather with the help of brushing while the leather is wet. Allow all the soak-in water content to evaporate as the fatliquor takes its place, leaving only the fat and oil content to remain in the leather structure. This application is repeated until the leather is absorbed no more. Any excess on the surface is rinsed off with Hydrator 3.3 and left for slow natural drying. Before fully dried the leather is flexed or massaged to produce a softer leather.

• How am I supposed to asses when the soak-in water has evaporated?

• How do I assess when "the leather is absorbed no more"

• By "rinsed off with Hydrator 3.3", does this imply brushing in the Hydrator with the horsehair brush, or does rinsing mean to apply the Hydrator in a different manner than in the previous step.

• How long, approximately, does the "slow natural drying" take?

Step 3 How to work with Protector B?

1* Apply Protector B or the leather scent version Protector B Plus and spread with a foam brush or towel, leave it dry, and is ready to use.

• About how long does this drying process take?

General questions for use of "Getting Sticky" kit

• Should I apply Cleaner 1.5, Acidifier 2.0, Hydrator 3.3, and Fatliquor 5.0 all in one continuous sequence? Or is there some step after-which I should wait before continuing?

• After seeing photos of the sofa, do you still recommend performing this entire procedure on a test spot before applying it to the full seating area? My issue with using a test spot is that all of the affected areas are visible, there aren't any non-visible areas I can test to see if the procedure fixes the tacky issue.

• Should I place any paper towels, or cloth towels between the leather and cushion material before performing the procedure?

Thanks
-Chris

[Roger Koh]

Leather Getting Sticky Restoration Kit L7
https://leatherdoctor.com/leather-ge...ration-kit-l7/


>>> When applying Cleaner 1.5, should I apply it directly to the leather, or apply it to the brush?

Spray Cleaner 1.5 directly to the leather.


>>> Does "Towel Extract" mean to blot the leather after applying the cleaner?

Yes, extract or blot when the soiling is suspended by brushing with a horse hair brush.


>>> How much of the cleaner do I need to extract with the towel, as much as I possibly can?

Yes, as much as you possibly can.


>>> Does "shows clean" mean when there's no visible dirt on the towel, or until no more cleaner can be extracted?

"shows clean" means when there's no visible dirt on the towel, that is correct.


>>> Do I need to wash the brush before using it again in this step?

Clean the brush by spraying it with Acidifier 2.0 and towel extract it clean before using it again.


>>> Does this imply that after extracting Acidifier 2.0 with a towel, I then reapply it with the horsehair brush, or by "saturate" am I supposed to pour more of the Acidifier than used in the prior step onto the surface of the leather?

By 'saturate' it means the product has to get into the leather structure preferably in your case through the suede side too. Since the suede side has no soiling, you could spray it wet too.


>>> By "dwell", am I supposed to leave the Acidifier on the leather for a certain time period?

By 'dwell', it means there is a delay of time to allow the Acidifier 2.0 to do its neutralizing work within the leather structure.


>>> I'm not sure what "rinse" means in this context.
Towel extract is the "rinse" in action.


>>> Does "deep saturation" imply I should apply a larger amount than that of the Cleaner 1.5, for instance?

Yes, Hydrator 3.3 works within the leather structure, thus needs a larger amount than just surface cleaning with Cleaner 1.5. The suede side should be wet in your situation.

>>> How am I supposed to asses when the soak-in water has evaporated?

Assess by visual and by finger contact.


>>> How much Fatliquor 5.0 should I apply in the first application?
As much as it can soak in, eventually 5/6 of the water content will evaporate.


>>> How do I assess when "the leather is absorbed no more".

By observation, when Fatliquor 5.0 just stays on the surface not absorbing anymore.


>>> By "rinsed off with Hydrator 3.3", does this imply brushing in the Hydrator with the horsehair brush, or does rinsing mean to apply the Hydrator in a different manner than in the previous step.

This is a surface cleaning with the same action as you have cleaned with Cleaner 1.5.


>>> How long, approximately, does the "slow natural drying" take?

Slow natural drying will vary depending on air movement and the humidity of the room. (estimate 1 to 2 days if you have soaked through the thickness of the leather)


>>> About how long does this drying process take?

Protector B is a surface application, so dry much faster than Fatliquor 5.0.


>>> Should I apply Cleaner 1.5, Acidifier 2.0, Hydrator 3.3, and Fatliquor 5.0 all in one continuous sequence? Or is there some step after which I should wait before continuing?

Yes, in a continuous 'WET' sequence.

>>> After seeing photos of the sofa, do you still recommend performing this entire procedure on a test spot before applying it to the full seating area?

You do not have enough products to treat the full seating area.

[B]
>>> My issue with using a test spot is that all of the affected areas are visible, there aren't any non-visible areas I can test to see if the procedure fixes the tacky issue.

Pick a smaller panel like the armrest. Do you have a clue why you have a sticky issue, and do you know what the suffix of the Leather Doctor products represents?


>>> Should I place any paper towels, or cloth towels between the leather and cushion material before performing the procedure?

Better use some plastic trash bag or plastic sheet to separate the leather from the cushion material. This treatment especially with Hydrator 3.3 will activate the dyestuff and redistribute.

>>> EDIT: I forgot to mention that the suede side of the affected areas also feels different than the suede side of the non-affected areas. The suede under the tacky areas feels almost damp, or possibly slightly oily, while the suede under the non-affected areas feels dry.

I recommend that you treat the 'suede' side to evaluate your findings before attempting on the entire sofa.


I appreciate it if you could help to edit and improve the information to make it more user-friendly.


Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected],
email: [email protected]
phone: 604 773 1878

[redB&BSofa]

The kit arrived in the mail earlier today.

>>> By "dwell", am I supposed to leave the Acidifier on the leather for a certain time period?

By 'dwell', it means there is a delay of time to allow the Acidifier 2.0 to do its neutralizing work within the leather structure.

• How long should the delay be?

>>> After seeing photos of the sofa, do you still recommend performing this entire procedure on a test spot before applying it to the full seating area?

You do not have enough products to treat the full seating area.

• What square footage can a single kit treat? The affected area is about 7ft²

>>> My issue with using a test spot is that all of the affected areas are visible, there aren't any non-visible areas I can test to see if the procedure fixes the tacky issue.

Pick a smaller panel like the armrest. Do you have a clue why you have a sticky issue, ...

Because the seats were tacky when I purchased it second hand, I do not know the exact cause of the issue.

Based on what I've read online, it seems the possible causes of a tacky or sticky finish are:

• UV exposure

• Spill

• Over conditioning

UV exposure doesn't fit the symptoms as it's only the seating area that's affected. If the sofa was exposed to prolonged sunlight, more than this area would be affected.

A spill is possible, but there is no detectable sign of a spill other than the change in surface texture. There is no visible border, color change, or smell.

I think the most likely cause is over conditioning or improper conditioning based on elimination, and also the fact that the tacky finish abruptly ends on the border of the exposed portion of the top facing side of the seat cushions.

This fits with the previous owner applying some sort of product to the seat cushions, as opposed to a spill or oil buildup which I assume most likely wouldn't result in such a consistent and well-defined area.

The product applied may not have been a conditioner, but some other cleaning or miscellaneous product.

When I first noticed the tacky finish on the seats, I asked the previous owner what products they used, and they said they only occasionally used conditioners, however, the previous owner was not the same person who was living with the sofa when I purchased it, and the tenant of the owner may have applied some product without the owners knowledge.

... and do you know what the suffix of the Leather Doctor products represents?

I don't see any documentation, but assumed it's the pH of the product.

I'm not sure what this is supposed to mean to me, the layman end consumer.

I appreciate it if you could help to edit and improve the information to make it more user-friendly.

I added some line breaks and formatted my question in bulleted lists, let me know if you want me to make any more edits to my post to improve readability.

[Roger Koh]

>>> By "dwell", am I supposed to leave the Acidifier on the leather for a certain time period?

By 'dwell', it means there is a delay of time to allow the Acidifier 2.0 to do its neutralizing work within the leather structure.

>>> How long should the delay be?

The purpose of 'dwell' is to neutralize the possible alkaline residue that causes the stickiness. Delay until the leather gets a satisfactorily healthy squeaky feel. Towel extract and reapply until the sticky feel improves to satisfaction.


>>> After seeing photos of the sofa, do you still recommend performing this entire procedure on a test spot before applying it to the full seating area?

You do not have enough products to treat the full seating area.

>>> What square footage can a single kit treat? The affected area is about 7ft²

I have not done a calculation on the amount of product used per square feet basis because the thickness of the leather is unknown and varies in thickness from 0.9mm to 1.5mm. It also depends on how dry the leather is of its original fatliquor (fat and oil). The other unknown is how pH-contaminated the leather is will also vary from case to case. It is the result that matters, not the square footage.


>>> My issue with using a test spot is that all of the affected areas are visible, there aren't any non-visible areas I can test to see if the procedure fixes the tacky issue.

Pick a smaller panel like the armrest. Do you have a clue why you have a sticky issue, ...


>>> Because the seats were tacky when I purchased it second hand, I do not know the exact cause of the issue.

Based on what I've read online, it seems the possible causes of a tacky or sticky finish are:

UV exposure

Spill

Over conditioning

Based on the 'affected area' highlighted it is more likely a cleaning of rub-on-stains from constant sitting or just a new pair of jeans that could be the possible reason, and an alkaline cleaner was used.

Over-conditioning is ruled out, otherwise, the armrest would be conditioned as well, which will also become sticky by conditioning. The leather care industry is still unclear or vague about conditioning. It does not take into account that there are two layers or strata of finished leather, the leather structure itself and its finishes. Structural conditioner like Fatliquor 5.0 to soften the leather, any surface residue will need to be removed to avoid a sticky surface.


... and do you know what the suffix of the Leather Doctor products represents?

>>> I don't see any documentation, but assumed it's the pH of the product.

>>> I'm not sure what this is supposed to mean to me, the layman end consumer.

All Leather Doctor's products are pH specific because leather is an amphoteric protein material and is pH sensitive.

Leather has a pH value of 3 to 5, and any product that is above 5, especially 7 and above will cause a side effect like bleeding, stickiness, and getting stiff when dry. So even with water with a pH value of 7, some leather upholstery manufacturers caution against its usage.

So, Leather Doctor puts its pH value upfront, so you do not make a mistake. Any product that has a pH value above 5 needs to be pH balanced with a pH value below 2.

And, after rinsing, you want to make sure that the leather has a healthy squeaky feel to be leather-safe!

[redB&BSofa]

Hi Roger,

I was able to perform a test of Cleaner 1.5 -> Acidifier 2.0 -> Hydrator 3.3 -> Fatliquor 5.0 last night

The process was mostly smooth, however a couple questions came up during the test:

• When towel extracting during any step of the process, should the towel be wiped across the surface, or only blotted with pressure?
  
  I attempted to wipe the surface with the towel after the second 'Dwell Application' of Acidifier 2.0, and the towel picked up something noticeably brown.
  
  When I only blotted the surface during towel extraction, the towel remained white.
  
  I was unsure if the brown substance was dye being removed from the surface, so I only blotted while towel extracting for the remainder of the process.

• How long should I wait between repeated applications of Fatliquor 5.0 before checking if anymore cannot be absorbed?
  
  I waited about 15 minutes between applications before inspecting for any dry spots on the surface of the test area.
  
  15 minutes after the third application of Fatliquor 5.0, I did not observe any dry spots forming and proceeded with rinsing.
  
  However, if I had waited even longer, it may be possible that some dry spots would have appeared eventually.

My most concerning question:

• After the third 'Dwell Application' of Acidifier 2.0, the surface of the test area was no longer glossy, and matched the matte appearance of the low traffic, unaffected, smooth areas of the cushion.
  
  The surface was still damp, but it seemed like the tackiness had been removed, and any remaining 'grippiness' as I moved my hand over the test area was the result of the dampness.
  
  • My assessment may be flawed, however, as I found it difficult to distinguish between the original tackiness of the surface, and the damp state of the leather after the application of Acidifier 2.0
  
  I was pleased with the result up to this point
  
  
  After the saturation with Hydrator 3.3, repeated applications of Fatliquor 5.0, and final rinsing with Hydrator 3.3, however, the surface of the test area became very sticky
  
  The towel had to be peeled away from the leather when extracting the final rinse of Hydrator 3.3.
  
  Being unsure if this was the intended result, I made the decision to rinse with Hydrator 3.3 two more times.
  
  This diminished the sticky finish and glossy appearance, however it did not entirely remove it.
  
  Instead of continuing to rinse with Hydrator 3.3, I decided to proceed to the drying process, thinking the residual stickiness and gloss would resolve with drying.
  
  About 12 hours have elapsed of the 24-48 hour drying period, and the surface still remains slightly sticky.
  
  Is this the expected outcome after application of Fatliquor 5.0? Should I continue to rinse with Hydrator 3.3?
  
  >>> EDIT Regarding above question:
  
  I proceeded with an additional rinsing of Hydrator 3.3 24 hours into the drying process.
  
  After this additional rinsing, the surface returned to the matte appearance it had after the application of Acidifier 2.0.
  
  From my inexperienced perspective, I believe the leather had the desired 'squeaky feel' after this additional rinse.
  
  In this state, my hand could still not glide smoothly, however, and I would still describe it as grippy.

>>> EDIT after 48 hours of drying time since application of Fatliquor 5.0:

Both the top side and 'suede side' of the leather felt dry to the touch, so I proceeded to apply Protector B with the included foam brush.


>>> EDIT after allowing Protector B to dry for 1 hour:

I am happy to report that after cleaning, hydrating, application of Fatliquor 5.0, and top coating with Protector B, the area that I tested has been completely restored.

My hand can now glide smoothly across the surface of the test area, just like the unworn portions of the sofa. The difference is night and day, and I am beyond pleased with the result.

I am so glad I chose not to listen to the leather technician who said the tackiness was irreparable, and that I found your products.

I will probably ask for your advice on any additional restoration required for the rest of the leather upholstery.

Thank you for developing such an amazing leather care system.
-Chris


Below are photos documenting the process, I forgot to document the application of Cleaner Pro 1.5, but it was straightforward.

[redB&BSofa]

Photos continued:

[redB&BSofa]

Photos continued:

[Roger Koh]

>>> I was able to perform a test of Cleaner 1.5 -> Acidifier 2.0 -> Hydrator 3.3 -> Fatliquor 5.0 last night

>>> The process was mostly smooth, however, a couple of questions came up during the test:

>>> When towel extracting during any step of the process, should the towel be wiped across the surface, or only blotted with pressure?

>>> I attempted to wipe the surface with the towel after the second 'Dwell Application' of Acidifier 2.0, and the towel picked up something noticeably brown.

>>> When I only blotted the surface during towel extraction, the towel remained white.

>>> I was unsure if the brown substance was dye being removed from the surface, so I only blotted while towel extracting for the remainder of the process.


* The objective of towel extraction is to remove suspended soiling particulates without physically damaging the leather finishes.

* In this case, the wiping is preferred as it does pick up 'something noticeably brown'. It is not the dye, otherwise it will be red. Acidifier 2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 other attributes are for setting or fixing dyestuffs on those dye bleeding problems.


>>> How long should I wait between repeated applications of Fatliquor 5.0 before checking if any more cannot be absorbed?

>>> I waited about 15 minutes between applications before inspecting for any dry spots on the surface of the test area.

>>> 15 minutes after the third application of Fatliquor 5.0, I did not observe any dry spots forming and proceeded with rinsing.

>>> However, if I had waited even longer, it may be possible that some dry spots would have appeared eventually.


* 15 minutes is a reasonable waiting time, but it also depends on the dryness of the leather. The dryness of leather refers to ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil that hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) charged leather fibrils.

>>> My most concerning question:

>>> After the third 'Dwell Application' of Acidifier 2.0, the surface of the test area was no longer glossy, and matched the matte appearance of the low traffic, unaffected, smooth areas of the cushion.

>>> The surface was still damp, but it seemed like the tackiness had been removed, and any remaining 'grippiness' as I moved my hand over the test area was the result of the dampness.

>>> My assessment may be flawed, however, as I found it difficult to distinguish between the original tackiness of the surface, and the damp state of the leather after the application of Acidifier 2.0

>>> I was pleased with the result up to this point


*After the third 'Dwell Application' did you brush and towel extract resulting in no longer 'glossy'? This glossy appearance could be from accumulated soiling, that should have been removed after brushing and towel extraction with Cleaner 1.5. The 'glossy' appearance should continue to improve with repeat brushing and towel extraction with Acidifier 2.0.

*The second and third Acidifier 2.0 'Dwell Application' objective is to turn a 'slimy' feel into a 'squeaky' feel. When leather feels tacky in a dry state it will become slimy when wet with water pH 7, but in this case, we are using Acidifier 2.0, pH 2.0 so it should become squeaky in the test. Any tackiness, or sliminess from alkalinity exposure should disappear when the leather is pH balanced or neutralized.


>>>After the saturation with Hydrator 3.3, repeated applications of Fatliquor 5.0, and final rinsing with Hydrator 3.3, however, the surface of the test area became very sticky

>>> The towel had to be peeled away from the leather when extracting the final rinse of Hydrator 3.3.

>>> Being unsure if this was the intended result, I made the decision to rinse with Hydrator 3.3 two more times.

>>> This diminished the sticky finish and glossy appearance, however it did not entirely remove it.

>>> Instead of continuing to rinse with Hydrator 3.3, I decided to proceed to the drying process, thinking the residual stickiness and gloss would resolve with drying.

>>> About 12 hours have elapsed of the 24-48 hour drying period, and the surface still remains slightly sticky.

>>> Is this the expected outcome after application of Fatliquor 5.0? Should I continue to rinse with Hydrator 3.3?


* Can you describe what entails the 'final rinsing', is brushing part of the rinsing procedure that could be the issue, that the fat and oil remain on its surface causing the 'very sticky' phenomenon?

>>> EDIT Regarding above question:

>>> I proceeded with an additional rinsing of Hydrator 3.3 24 hours into the drying process.

>>> After this additional rinsing, the surface returned to the matte appearance it had after the application of Acidifier 2.0.

>>> From my inexperienced perspective, I believe the leather had the desired 'squeaky feel' after this additional rinse.

>>> In this state, my hand could still not glide smoothly, however, and I would still describe it as grippy.


*We are not expecting a 'smooth' glide, we need to have a 'squeaky' feel and reach the desired result.

>>> EDIT after 48 hours of drying time since application of Fatliquor 5.0:

>>> Both the top side and 'suede side' of the leather felt dry to the touch, so I proceeded to apply Protector B with the included foam brush.

>>> EDIT after allowing Protector B to dry for 1 hour:

>>> I am happy to report that after cleaning, hydrating, application of Fatliquor 5.0, and top coating with Protector B, the area that I tested has been completely restored.

>>> My hand can now glide smoothly across the surface of the test area, just like the unworn portions of the sofa. The difference is night and day, and I am beyond pleased with the result.

>>> I am so glad I chose not to listen to the leather technician who said the tackiness was irreparable, and that I found your products.

>>> I will probably ask for your advice on any additional restoration required for the rest of the leather upholstery.

>>> Thank you for developing such an amazing leather care system.


* Note: Leather Protector B is not the topcoat. It is a smooth, buttery protector that prolongs the matching Aniline Gloss Topcoat 76G from wear and friction rubs.

[redB&BSofa]

*After the third 'Dwell Application' did you brush and towel extract resulting in no longer 'glossy'?...The 'glossy' appearance should continue to improve with repeat brushing and towel extraction with Acidifier 2.0

For each of the three 'Dwell Applications' of Acidifier 2.0, I brushed and towel extracted, and the 'glossy appearance' did turn more matte with each application.

* Can you describe what entails the 'final rinsing', is brushing part of the rinsing procedure that could be the issue, that the fat and oil remain on its surface causing the 'very sticky' phenomenon?

I performed a surface cleaning with Hydrator 3.3 - spraying the surface, brushing, and towel extracting.

And I agree, I think the stickiness after applying Fatliquor 5.0 was caused by leftover fat and oil that wasn't removed with a single rinse.

When tackling the rest of the seating area, I will continue rinsing until the stickiness is completely gone before drying, now that I know repeated rinsing will completely remove it, and that it should be squeaky at this stage.

...This glossy appearance could be from accumulated soiling, that should have been removed after brushing and towel extraction with Cleaner 1.5....

* Note: Leather Protector B is not the topcoat. It is a smooth, buttery protector that prolongs the matching Aniline Gloss Topcoat 76G from wear and friction rubs.

Your response prompted me to question whether the original finish of the leather was matte or glossy.

I was working under the assumption that the original finish was matte, and that the gloss was caused by wear and body oils.

I assumed this because the leather upholstery on the frame of the sofa is currently matte, and only the top/front facing surfaces of the arm, back, and seat cushions are glossy - the contact areas.

What confuses me, however, is that despite the top/front facing surfaces of the arm, back, and seat cushions all being glossy, only the top surface of the seat cushions have the tacky feel.

The glossy surfaces of the seat and back cushions still allow my hand to glide smoothly across them, much like the matte surfaces of the frame upholstery.

I just searched for images of the same model sofa, and they all seem to have the same pattern of gloss finish on the seating area cushions (arms, back, seats), and matte finish on the sides and frame.

All of the examples I found are a similar age to the sofa I own - 50-30 years old.

Do you think this combined glossy and matte pattern could have been the original intended finish?

And, given this information, do you recommend I apply Aniline Gloss Topcoat 76G?


Below are 3 examples of other B&B Italia Alanda sofas that all show the same pattern of gloss on the seating area, and matte on the sides and frame.







Thanks,
-Chris

[redB&BSofa]

Hi Roger,

I read more about the leathers B&B Italia offers, and I think the most likely match to the material of my sofa is their Koto line.

Here is a description of the Koto leather from B&B Italia's website:

Typology: Aniline
Hanger: 20
Category: Koto
Characteristics: young steer - chrome tanning - full grain - natural grain - aniline through-dyeing - natural aniline finish with waxes

Do you think the gloss on the seating area of my sofa is due to the 'finish with waxes'?

If this is the case, is it also plausible that B&B Italia applied more of the wax finish to the seating area than the sides and frame, resulting in a glossier appearance in those areas?

If you believe the gloss is attributable to the wax finish, as opposed to a polyurethane topcoat, or oil/soiling, should I apply Aniline Top 21W and Protector W?

Will the combination of Aniline Top 21W and Protector W result in a similar smooth feel as Protector B achieved in my test?

Disregarding the tacky issue on the top surface of the seat cushions, if I wanted to rejuvenate the rest of the sofa cushions with cleaning and applications of Hydrator 3.3 and Fatliquor 5.0, does the wax finish first have to be removed, and then reapplied at the end of the process?

Thanks,
-Chris