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Thread: Auto Leather Seat Rain Damage

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Default Auto Leather Seat Rain Damage

    Hi,

    I have a 2006 Volkwagen Jetta with a leather interior. My son left the sun roof open and we had a downpour of rain. The car set in 90+ degree sun for a few days before we discovered the water damage. I took the car to a leather shop in town and they said the seats were "burnt" and could not be fixed. The dealer quoted new seat covers at 2600.00 Is there any hope of repairing the leather? The seats don't need to be perfect but can anyone offer some advise as to a fix to make them plyable again? I can't afford to replace the seat covers and I have a 1000.00 deductable on the car that i really don't want to spend if there is an alternative fix.

    Thanks,
    Dan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    Yes it can be fix!

    If the leather can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor replenish to as soft as you wish; but see if it applies to your situation.

    Show pictures and I will be able to tell you so.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

  3. #3
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    Sep 2012
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    Default Pictures of seat water damage

    Rodger,

    I'm trying to get the pictures posted, please let me know if you get them.

    Thanks,
    Dan


    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Yes it can be fix!

    If the leather can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor replenish to as soft as you wish; but see if it applies to your situation.

    Show pictures and I will be able to tell you so.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Attached Images Attached Images     

  4. #4
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    Default

    #1 Water Damaged Areas


    From this picture, it looks like where the extent of water damaged is.
    To soften up this area the recommended process would be:

    1] A complete clean up of the areas of the entire seat – Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.

    2] Hydrating this area by laying paper rag/towel as reservoir to contain the Hydrator-3.3 and let it dwell up to 72hours with plastic see through cling wrapper to control evaporation. As the dwelling is going on, the paper towel has to be kept wet throughout the hydrating process by periodical replenishing it wet.


    #2 Close-up view of the leather Shrinkage that cause the Stiffness.


    1] The red circle areas are the concentrated shrinkage that needs to be stretch crosswise after the leather is relaxed. The finish compression is vulnerable to damaged as it may be already detached from the leather surface when leather beneath shrink as the fatliquor leach out (may need a refinishing after the softening up of the leather when dry).

    2] Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished after the leather is softened up and the stick together fibers separated. The technique with using the paper rag and cling wrapper is repeated until the leather is saturated with fatliquor. The more the leather absorbed the fatliquor, the softer the leather will be.



    Leather rejuvenating technique . . .

    #1 Fatliquor-5.0 is applied to the cleaned surface and after Hydrator-3.3



    #2 A paper rag/towel is used as a reservoir to contain the fatliquor and is covered with a plastic cling wrapper to control evaporation





    Leather Doctor® Auto Pigmented Leather - Care - Standard - Kit Ap3

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

  5. #5
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    Sep 2012
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    Default

    Rodger,

    What products do I need and what will the cost be? Will the seats have to be restained to hide the dicoloration when the treatment is complete, or will the treatment return the natural color so that the damaged areas won't be noticed.

    Thanks for all the information!!

    Dan

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    Default

    Rodger,

    I neglected to answer your question about the leather damage area. Yes the passenger seat was the worst area and your red outline was accurate. The inboard bottom seat bolster was the worst spot. The picture does not give you the best angle but you can tell by the threads straining in the seam that it is streaching pretty hard.

    Dan

    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Yes it can be fix!

    If the leather can be hydrated, it can be fatliquor replenish to as soft as you wish; but see if it applies to your situation.

    Show pictures and I will be able to tell you so.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    The above Kit Ap3 is what you may need, however you may require more Hydrator-3.3 to relax up the leather.

    Price for the Kit and refill is send to you by email.


    "Will the seats have to be restained to hide the dicoloration when the treatment is complete, or will the treatment return the natural color so that the damaged areas won't be noticed."



    It can go either way:

    1] Finish already damaged from detachment from the leather crust and need refinish.

    2] Finish is still attached although compressed along with the leather crust shrinkage, and bounds back good.

    It is a 50/50 case; can only tell, after hydrating and re-stretching the leather back to its original softness.

    I will hope for the best and prepare for the very worst to happen – damaged finish that need refinishing.

    Either way, the leather will be softened up, and will not lead to cracks if we take this route.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

  8. #8
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    Jun 2017
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    Default

    How did this work out for you Dan?

  9. #9
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    Jun 2018
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    Default

    Hi Roger, We spoke on the phone yesterday and I have the same issue with my 2010 Acura TL. I left the Sunroof open In a rain storm and damaged the two front seats. Can you look at the attached pictures and advise on which products I should purchase and any tricks or techniques for repair and restoration.

    Thanks!Name:  Passenger_seat.JPG
Views: 223
Size:  2.78 MB
    Paul

  10. #10
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    Jun 2018
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    Default

    Here are a few more photosName:  Passenger_detail.JPG
Views: 231
Size:  1.94 MB Name:  Passenger_detail.JPG
Views: 231
Size:  1.94 MBName:  Passenger_seat.JPG
Views: 227
Size:  2.78 MBName:  Passenger_seat.JPG
Views: 227
Size:  2.78 MB

  11. #11
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    >>> which products I should purchase

    The recommend products to use is Leather Doctor Kit-At5.ws. Additional Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 is necessary to continue working without stopping otherwise while waiting for supplies to comes in your leather dries up and what is use gone to waste as you have to start all over again in one go until the leather structure is supple up to stretch back to dimension. You find this on-line at
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-at5...storation-kit/

    Name:  Kit-at5.ws.jpg
Views: 203
Size:  3.08 MB


    >>> any tricks or techniques for repair and restoration
    Read the information from the above Kit-At5.ws link

    This is a three part restoration system comprises of:
    1- CleanPro-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0 system,
    2- Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system and
    3- Protection-B system.

    Color damages refinishing is an secondary option with this Kit-Ap7.cl

    2- Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system: Hydrator-3.3 is used to relax the shrunk, stick together leather fiber structure, separating and opening it up so that the Fatliquor-5.0 can easily penetrates and moves into the inter-fibrillary spaces, plumps and lubricates it, to return to suppleness when dry from stiffness and cracking. Depends on shrinkage severity from heat, the upper leather finishes strata may not response and thus give way when stretch back to pre-existing condition. A stretching test may be perform to determine if the finishes coatings already delaminate from the leather crust, if so it is more prudent to shave it off for direct accessing the leather crust. If the finishes is intact, then it might be easier to access the thickness of the leather through the perforated and stitching holes or follow the water path into the stitching rows. Bamboo toothpick is used to resize the perforated holes when the leather is plump and limp. Leaving each perforated holes with the bamboo toothpick helps to inspect the alignment in the drying process. It is removed finally to achieve uniform holes size for better appearance. The crust surface has tighter pores then the reverse suede side. Working system is preferably is to apply direct from the suede side, if removing the leather covering is not a huge problem. It is also safer when working on the suede side without direct contact with the finishes. Dwelling up to 72hours with evaporation control is recommended to relax the fiber for easier manipulation with force staking action using a smooth spatula or spoon. The mechanical action force to stretch back the shrinkage may likely damage the surface finishes and safer when work from the reverse suede side if possible, unless coloring or refinishing options is already under consideration. Otherwise to minimize finishes damages force stretching is recommended on the reverse suede side. The shrinkage finishes add burden to the structure stretching as it holds back with stiffness and Hydrator-3.3 has no effect on it. When refinishes is an option (http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-ap7...finishing-kit/) then shaving off the color finishes help the leather structure to force stretch back easier. This process of undoing the shrinkage is done in combination with Fatliquor-5.0. Fatliquor helps wedges and lubricates the fiber while it is being separates. Otherwise, when the hydrator dries out before the fatliquor can takes its place the fiber may become stick together again. Leather fibers interlock one another like hinges for flexibility and like metal hinges when it gets rusted and jams tight, a rust remover with mechanical forces works in similar fashion with hydrator before a lubricant like fatliquor is applied to loosen it. In between initial hydrating to relax the stick together fiber and the slow drying, fatliquor may be used simultaneously as a in between before moving totally using fatliquor. Before the leather is completely dry after fatliquor replenishing, it is recommended that it is flexed and massaged until it dries to the desired suppleness. Any fatliquor residue remaining on the surface is brush-in or removed completely with Hydrator-3.3.

    Tips:

    2.1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. Recommend that folding Towel-5 be used as a reservoir to contain the Hydrator-3.3 to slowly penetrate the leather structure, easier through the perforation or stitching rows for quick access.

    2.2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. Put a towel over the plastic sheet and the seat can be ready for use. Body weight and motion helps to massage and the hydrating saturated leather to a degree. Recommend that the moisture level is kept consistently high at daily interval inspection during the hydrating process.

    2.3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. Bamboo toothpick lines up the perforation holes to maintain uniform size and is removed when completely dry. Flat surfaces may be rolled with a glass bottle to eliminate ridges. When completely dry, using an iron on wool setting helps to removes unwanted ridges satisfactorily.

    2.4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry.

    2.5- The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear.

    2.6- The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry.

    2.7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    Let me know if you need further clarification from what you read.

    Name:  RogerKoh-email.jpg
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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  12. #12
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    Jun 2018
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    Hi Rodger,
    Seems clear thanks! But I cannot get at the reverse side of the leather as I cannot take the Cover off the seats. I cleaned the seats and now I'm applying the hydrator with the paper towel and plastic wrap on top. Is it okay if it the car is outside in the sun? I have to drive it to work so there's no way around that. Also not sure how to put the toothpicks in as I'm doing the sides without the perforation and I would imagine toothpicks would damage the finish of the leather. I will keep you posted on the progress, Will it still work if I just keep applying a hydrator to the top of the leather, as I'm not sure how to get underneath without taking the seat apart which I'd rather not do. Let me know, Paul

  13. #13
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    Feb 2007
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    Default

    >>> Is it okay if it the car is outside in the sun?

    Cover it up to block the sun off to reduce direct heat.


    >>> I have to drive it to work so there's no way around that.

    Cover up with towel and throw cushion and seat to drive help loosen up the shrinkage.


    >>> Also not sure how to put the toothpicks in as I'm doing the sides without the perforation and I would imagine toothpicks would damage the finish of the leather.

    Toothpicks is just for perforation holes and needle holes to increase its size from shrinkage for better Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 penetration


    >>> I will keep you posted on the progress,

    Please show some pictures of your progress to help accordingly.


    >>> Will it still work if I just keep applying a hydrator to the top of the leather, as I'm not sure how to get underneath without taking the seat apart which I'd rather not do. Let me know, Paul


    Depending how bad is the shrinkage, and if finishes inevitably to be refinished, needle holes or removing them may be an option.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 5 Days Ago at 11:14 AM.

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