Let’s take a look at the following sequence of procedure recommendation and see what you can get out of it; as you mentioned you do not like to do something that seem good but may be making something worse later on; so we are talking about the holistic approach to your situation.
1] Degreasing:
Degreasing is recommended to the headrest right back cushion and to the center seat cushion, feathering out to the rest of the cushions entirely edge to edge. This is in fact a wet preparation ready for refinishing with color as an option. Degreaser-2.2 (pH 2.2), water-based is used with few functions in mind, first is to degrease penetrated and surface of grease, oil and sweat; second is to neutralize the pH of the sweat contamination; third is to control bleeding; forth is to increase the strength of the ionic charged of the leather protein fiber positive (+ve). Grease stain will turn milky in appearance as it is emulsified, it is then towel extracted; follows with rinsing with Rinse-3.0 (pH 3.0) until squeaky clean. Take note that deteriorated topcoat coating will be removed and it is also recommended to thoroughly removed them with the help of leather Eraser-4 in conjunction with 2000grit sanding to smoothen the surface while wet with the help of Rinse-3.0 and towel extraction. Note that existing aged and old conditioner used need stripping off as well so as not to distort the look of the finish.
2] Hydrating:
Hydrating is done with Hydrator-3.3 (pH 3.3), this is done with soaking the leather thickness of the leather and letting it dwell from 24 to 72 hours under plastic wrapping to relax and plumps the leather. The features of this process includes: a) the plumping of the leather will return the tautness of the leather and reduces the unnatural over-stretch creases (when fatliquor replenished thereafter) – this is done with stretching crosswise while the leather is soft and limp; b) with moisture in the leather structure it helps to move or allows the suspended soiling particulates to “swim-out” to the surface known as the wicking process. c) reduces surface tension of the leather protein fiber; d) ionic charges the amphoteric leather protein fiber positive (+ve), stabilizing the chemistry integrity of the leather; e) preconditioning the leather ready for fatliquor replenishing.
3] Fatliquor:
Fatliquor replenishing is accomplished with Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0), an negative (-ve) charged ionic fat, oil and water; a modern tannery standard of softening the leather with suppleness and strength.
4] Aniline Dyeing (an option):
This is done with Aniline Dye-21 (matching color), “staining” the leather fiber. Another option is to “coating” (with help of Adhesor-73) over the existing topcoat that may impede the “staining” of the dye.
5] Topcoating:
Topcoating is done with Aniline Topcoat-79G – this is the process to refinish the deteriorated topcoat that reveal as scaly or rough to the touch.
6] Non-Stick, Rub-Resistance, Buttery-Feel, Leather-Scented Protection:
This is done with Protection-B+
If the complete holistic restoration is to be done, it has to follow this sequence without deviation; however dyeing is an option, so is degreasing and the finish protection.
Note that the scaly deteriorated topcoat will look worse later on if it is not refinished at this stage.
See Aniline Problem Solving Guide for specialty problems.
Leather-Safe Aniline Leather Problem Solving Guide-A9
Products mention can be found in this Kit A6.dr.
This kit is a complete (routine, periodic, restorative) care for your leather type – the standard red may not be an exact match to your existing color.
Leather Doctor® Aniline Leather – Color Refinisher & Degreaser – Kit A6.dr
Standard Colors available:
Black,
Yellow,
Orange,
Red,
Red Brown,
Rubine,
Blue &
Dark Brown
Custom Color Matching Available on Request
Prices will be sending by email.
Roger Koh
[email protected]