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Thread: Rolls Royce Phantom – black print from white garbage bag transferred onto the Moccasin color leather seats. What do you suggests?

  1. #1
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    Default Rolls Royce Phantom – black print from white garbage bag transferred onto the Moccasin color leather seats. What do you suggests?

    I hope that your product will work. I saw the review of your product on the Rolls Royce Phantom with the brown belt stain. I put some white garbage bags on my Rolls Royce Phantom leather seats while I was conditioning them, but the black print on the bags transferred onto the seats. I tried to remove it with all the leather products I have, but no luck. What do you suggests? Where can I get your product? I am in Los Angeles, USA.

    Sorry for calling you so late, I assumed that it was a business line with voicemail, but am very glad to have reached you. I have been very concerned ever since I discovered this screw up earlier tonight. I was conditioning my seats with Leatherique Rejunenator Oil, and had to drive my car, so I put down some plastic white kitchen bags, but did not realize that they had printing on them. I left the car parked in the garage for about a week, so no sun or heat exposure, but did not remove the bags. When I moved it today, I discovered that the printing had transferred onto the seat. I tried to remove the printing with both pristine clean from Leatherique, and Lexol PH leather cleaner, no significant effect, some may have come off and smudge a little bit. I also tried simple water too. I touched it very slightly in a small area with rubbing alcohol, no effect, and then I cleaned it off immediately after. I have left some leatherique oil on there to continue conditioning the affected area. I have attached the photos of the problem.

    Please give me your suggestions and recommendations as soon as possible. As you realize this is causing me a great deal of anxiety.

    Questions send by Ton

    See pictures of black print stains. . .



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    Leatherique & Lexol
    Last edited by Questions!; 06-30-2012 at 06:31 PM.

  2. #2
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    Leather Identification:
    The leather is identified as “pigmented”.

    Stains Identification:
    Stains from plastic prints transfer is most likely “pigment” too, (just like a permanent Sharpie marker that contains micro-pigment makes removal much more difficult than from a ballpoint ink dye) unlike the other Rolls Royce which was stain with leather “dye” from a belt.

    Failed Attempts Waiver:
    Have to be aware that fail attempt may have altered the chemical characteristic of the stain, with possibility of setting it more permanent – so we are not removing the original stain per se.
    Rubbing Alcohol may remove some of the topcoat that now making the color finish more vulnerable to colorcoat removal.
    Unnecessary scrubbing with leather products may also contribute to the topcoat weakness.

    Possible Outcome:
    We have to take into consideration of these fail attempt, and still move forward with extra tender loving care to solve this problem with these possible scenarios:
    1] Successful removal of stains.
    2] Topcoat damages if any to be further rectified.
    3] Colorcoat damages if any to be further rectified.

    Stain Removal Procedure:
    1] Plan A is to use Prep-7.7 to penetrate, lubricate and suspense the print stain – a slow dwelling process up to 72hrs to conclude its effectiveness. Sticky residue is removed with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky feel.
    2] Plan B is to use Bleach-9.9 as a bleaching booster into the Prep-7.7 to further work on any traces of dyes (if any) after above 72hrs – After successful bleaching, it has to be immediately neutralized with Acidifier-2.0, sticky residue removed by Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.

    Products mentioned is found in this Kit Ap5.di



    Leather Doctor® - Auto Pigmented Leather – Topcoat Refinisher - Dye and Ink Stain Remover - Kit Ap5.di




    Step 1, Specific Instructions:
    1] Test out Prep-7.7 onto the black print stain circled in red (picture as above).
    2] Cut out a round rag (from the kit) to cover the two letters and apply the Prep-7.7 to saturate it (take picture to see if done right).
    4] Allow 4 hours inspection, (take picture) to see if the print transfer to the rag.
    5] Replace the rag, Repeat 2] and let it dwell overnight (take picture).
    6] This dwelling process with a rag for the transfer is repeated at interval up to 72hrs until the prints are fully exhausted.
    7] Lets see the progress of this testing in pictures (must see) first before the next step.


    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 06-28-2012 at 09:16 AM.

  3. #3
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    Roger,
    Just got the package, I will do the test spot as soon as I get home. You want me to check it every 4 hours? It is safe to leave it overnight?



    The whole idea is just to do it “just right” – neither under doing it nor over doing it.

    Give me a picture after 4 hours – I will be able to tell you more precisely to leave it overnight or not.

    It depends on the response on the first 4 hrs.

    Roger

  4. #4
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    Roger,

    Prep 7.7 applied @ 1:45 p.m. Friday, June 29, 2012.

    Ton


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  5. #5
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    Here is progress at 6:30 pm. Please advise what to do next.


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    The second 4 hours.


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  7. #7
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    This is result after overnight, approx 9 hrs of dwell. A bit more fading and transfer to cloth. But still is visible. I will replace 7.7 for another 4 hours and see.


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  8. #8
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    Here is result from 830 am to 430 pm. Removed a bit more I think, but still not complete. I have replaced it, and will ck in another 4 hours or so.



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    Here is result after another 8 hrs. Still some ink remaining. I applied another layer and will check in the morning.


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  10. #10
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    From 11 pm to 9:30 am. Still some remnant stains. I have replaced the 7.7 and will leave it all day to dwell. Any thoughts?

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    Last edited by Questions!; 07-02-2012 at 09:55 PM.

  11. #11
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    2] Plan B is to use Bleach-9.9 as a bleaching booster into the Prep-7.7 to further work on any traces of dyes (if any) after above 72hrs – After successful bleaching, it has to be immediately neutralized with Acidifier-2.0, sticky residue removed by Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.

    Mixing Instructions:

    The powder Bleach-9.9 has to be activated with hot water and mixed into a creamy paste to be applied onto the dye stains so that it remains on top of the surface; otherwise penetrating onto the leather crust may cause denaturing to the leather with a yellow stain. This is done by using non-metal tools to mix with added hot water. Advanced formulation is further mixed with Prep-7.7 for a longer more effective suspending and bleaching effect.

    1] Use non metal tools with hot water (drip from pipette) to mix powder to a creamy paste (in bottle provided).

    2] The approximate powder to water ratio is 3 to 1(example weight 1gm of bleach into the plastic capsule, then add 10drops of hot water using the pipette and stir it up to a creamy paste).

    3] For advance longer bleaching action, add half the weight of the cream bleach or approximately 7.5gm with Prep-7.7 then stirs it up thick and it’s ready for direct application.

    4] Keep lid of the capsule closed tight for continuous successive application.

    5] Use stirs stick to gently apply the creamy paste direct onto the stain precisely (without causing physical damages to the stain).

    6] Leave for a 6 hours dwell for chemical reaction to take effect, using tap water to blot off gently the powder residue for an inspection; repeat another 6 hours dwell if necessary.

    7] To stop the bleaching effect upon satisfaction, use Acidifier-2.0 with a cut out rag/cloth and let it dwell until dry.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 07-02-2012 at 10:59 AM.

  12. #12
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    Restart Plan A for the remaining Stains - Mon @ 3pm


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    Total time was 78 hours + or - the majority of the stains are gone, but there is still a faint bit left. I have blotted the treated area with tap water and blotted it dry. I will move to plan B on Sunday when I have more time to watch. Any thoughts?

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  14. #14
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    Since Plan B will take a shorter duration; I suggest test out an isolated stain to see if it works.

    Unless the faint mark is penetrated "dyes", instead of pigment it will work!

    Have to be cautious if the finish can take this much stress, is uncertain!

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    Roger, I mixed 4 g with 40 drops of water and then added 1 to 1 of prep 7.7 per our phone conversation.
    However, it seemed too watery, so I added add'l 4 g and 40 drops of water to thicken it per your written instructions of 2 to 1.
    Then I applied.
    Please see pics.

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  16. #16
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    The stains were slightly affected, but the leather was lightened on the areas applied.

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  17. #17
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    Neutralize the effect of the alkaline bleaching with Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0).

    Apply Acidifier-2.0 to the affected area with the help of horsehair Brush-1 and blot off the bleaching residue.

    Thereafter apply a strip of paper rag over the affected area and let it soak with Acidifier-2.0 until dry.

    Remove any sticky residue (from the Prep-7.7 bleaching compound) if any with Cleaner-3.8 brush agitate and towel extract; follows by Rinse-3.0 towel extract to a squeaky feel.

    Leave dry and inspect – what do you see?

    Before going to the next phase of Topcoat-72M refinishing.

    Roger

  18. #18
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    Honestly, the results were really good. Wow. Nice car and thread!

  19. #19
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    Roger,

    I'm not sure why you sent me to this thread--it's over a year old and is a different type of stain on leather than the one I contacted you about. Also, I emailed you about how I could order a kit, but I don't see anything about that here.

    Juliet

  20. #20
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    Sorry, wrong link. . .

    Should be this - http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ing-and-ripped

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