2011 Acura MDX - Blue jeans dye transfer stain on perforated leather - How to remove?

[Roger Koh]

We can continue for another doze of treatment with Prep-7.7. At this junction Acidifier-2.0 is recommended to spray soak the surface and let it dry to re-strengthen the finish from alkaline pH overworking.

While waiting for the Prep-7.7 used the seat over a white cotton towel.

Meanwhile we are still in the 1st phase of the Dye Stain Removal System.

It is also recommended that the finish is re-strengthen with OEM grade topcoat thereafter after the final stain removal.

Check your email for prices.

Roger Koh
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[davidc]

I wish I would have read your post about the clean white towel to sit on. After I finished the last of the Prep 7.7. I used the acidifier. Sprayed on and let soak for 30 mins. Then I used the cleaner 3.8 (spray on blot off) and rinse 3.0 (spray on and blot off). However after a week of driving in the car I am seeing my belt is dye transferring onto the section that I just cleaned. Also area that I treated with all these chemicals feels somewhat tacky and sticky. Attached is pictures of the new stain. I will sit on a white towel from now until the new batch of prep7.7 comes. What is the tacky sticky feeling about and how do we get rid of that?

[Roger Koh]

There are three possibilities for the tacky sticky feeling.

1] Prep-7.7 by itself is sticky as honey, Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 spraying and blotting without the Brush-1 gentle agitating may have not remove the Prep-7.7 entirely. Moreover you are cleaning on perforated leathers where cross section of the holes may still have the Prep-7.7 not entirely removed. So this is an issue with products still remaining on the leather.

2] If products are removed yet still have a tacky sticky feeling – it may be a sign of alkaline overexposure – that’s why the need of Acidifier-2.0 to soak it to return to a squeaky feels.

3] Another possible reason is the weakening of the finishes with already damaged topcoat – highly recommended to re-strengthen to save the colorcoat.


Note:
Topcoat is done after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[davidc]

After a few more treatments of prep 7.7 and clean 3.8 afterwards the stain is just about completely gone!!!! WOW!!! What are my next steps?

[Roger Koh]

Ensure that the Prep-7.7 residues are cleaned and rinsed thoroughly.

Check for tackiness.

Final spray with Acidifier-2.0 and leave it to dwell - check for tackiness again.

It should give you a squeaky feel.

If all at this stage of stain removal and tackiness check is satisfactory.

Go to hydrating it with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

Make sure that strays of fatliquor is further work into the perforated holes to ensure no surface interference when topcoating.

It is recommended to reapply topcoat to restrengthen the leather finish.

The entire surface to be topcoated is recommended to be lightly dry sand with 1500grit to get rid of any residue from cleaning or fatliquor.

You may go over the entire area with Topcoat-72Gloss for strength and thereafter the Matte for luster matching. Gloss and matte can be intermixed to gives you your custom luster.

Apply lighly with the lint free rag avoiding streaks, otherwise use 1500 sanding inbetween dry coating.

When dry apply Leather Scent-B (Protection-B+), spread with lint free rag and its read for used when dry.



Please emial me wit attached above picture, I will post it for better view.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

[BGriffin]

That is very helpful Roger ...thanks!

[LussyLou]

Oh my god/ Just recently had the same problem.
Now I know how to resolve it