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Thread: 2012 King Ranch leather – soup stain

  1. #1
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    Default 2012 King Ranch leather – soup stain

    Roger, i have read and re-read almost every thread concerning a leather stain from spills and would like you input and the iteams I would need to purchase in order to get this stain out.

    I believe that this leather is semi-aniline with a protective top coat but I could be wrong. My older King Ranch leather 2005-2007) seats had a different type letter, I beleive it was full aniline with no protection.

    I had cold chicken consomme (a clear seasoned soup) in my book bag and the container opened up spilt about 20 oz . The leather absorbed the soup and has stained the leather. The soup smell is in the seat (but not a strong smell). I have tried numerous things to get the stain out but every one of them seems to have made it worse or keeps it the same. The last thing I tried was resoaking it with bottled water and the ring now has become larger. I really want to remove the entire stain but if I can the romoval of ring stain would be my second choice. I do not believe that I can tackle this from the bottom, it is a large job to remove the leather cover from the seat. thank you

    http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...er_media_share



    http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...er_media_share



    http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...er_media_share



    http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m...er_media_share

  2. #2
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    A leather finish absorbency test is necessary to determine the best approach of removing the stains and the rings.

    1 Place a piece of wet tissue paper the size of a dime across the ring line and determine how long it penetrates the leather finish – showing a darkening effect.

    2 Show some pictures of your testing.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    A leather finish absorbency test is necessary to determine the best approach of removing the stains and the rings.

    1 Place a piece of wet tissue paper the size of a dime across the ring line and determine how long it penetrates the leather finish – showing a darkening effect.

    2 Show some pictures of your testing.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    So let me know if this is correct. Take a wet tissue paper, place it on the leather stain ring and then take a picture of the darken ring?

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    I placed multiple wet paper towels on the stain and stain ring and left them there for a good 4 minutes and once removed from the seat, I wiped off the excess water and no dark ring(s) were left except for on the perforation. The small holes had dark edges and that's all. So what does this mean? There is indeed a top coat and before trying to remove the stain, i'd need to sand off the top coat? This is all new to me but I will purchase and do anything needed to take care of this (even trying to dye it)

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    Theoretically speaking if moisture can get into the leather structure through the coating – the stain can get out.

    This would be ideal, not to damage the finish coating.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

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    You may like to try with Hydrator-3.3 with a longer dwell time maybe up to 4 hours or even overnight. If the test is successful - you would have a great chance of removing the stains will no ill effect to the finish.

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    roger, please let me know what else I should try along with a price for each and/or package deal shipped and where to send the money. I would need so sort of detailed directions . thank you

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    If Hydrator-3.3 still does not work as desired…the next step is to remove the clear topcoat only by sanding with 1200/1500grit sanding paper.
    As long as the residue is a white powder, it can continue until it touches the color, the sanding should stop. This micron layer removal should help in the product going in and the removing of the stain much easier.

    So we have progressive options…

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    You may like to have the Micro Topcoat-72(matte) as an add-on to the Kit AP3.dr - to restore what's been sand off.



    Leather Doctor® Leather Degreaser Kit AP3.dr

    Auto pigmented leather degreaser Kit AP3.dr - features Degreaser-2.2 with a pH value of 2.2. This is a high viscosity aqueous formulated leather degreaser; for degreasing leather of penetrated sweat, oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact. In most cases the finishes in these areas has deteriorated to allow such penetrated grease into the leather structure. Degreasing the leather structure will inevitably remove these deteriorated finishes as well. Therefore finishes restoration is a mandatory recommendation with degreasing as the 1st phase. Follows with leather rejuvenating as 2nd phase; leather impregnating as the 3rd phase; adhesion coating as the 4th phase; color coating as the 5th phase; top coating as the 6th phase and ends with a non-stick rub resistant protection for a holistic approach to leather restoration.

    * Degreasing System
    * Dye and Ink Stain Removal System
    * Restorative and Periodic Cleaning System
    * Leather Rejuvenating System
    * Leather Scent Non-Stick Rub Resistant Protection

    Degreasing System Instructions
    1] Shake very well until it turns to an opaque gel.
    2] Apply direct and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 to penetrate into the stain.
    3] Let dwell 5 to 30 minutes or before it dries for chemical reaction to occur, follows with towel extraction.
    4] Suspended residue is to be rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract until towel shows clean.

    Other Complementary System

    Dye and Ink Stain Removal System
    Remove stubborn stains through the penetrating, lubricating, and suspending power of Prep-7.7 to solve common problem stains found on pigmented leather seats like dye transfer from clothing including blue jeans and leather belts; not forgetting the newsprint and the tougher ballpoint ink.
    Instructions
    1] If the stain is a failed attempt from using other products, it’s recommended to use tap water for a wet finger test for tackiness or sliminess. If it is, acidifying it with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit AP3.ts to return the leather to a squeaky feel is highly recommended prior to Prep-7.7 application.
    2] Apply Prep-7.7 to the stain and let dwell for ˝ to 1 hour until stain begins to run.
    3] Blot the suspended stain and check if the leather color is removed at the same time, especially where the topcoat has already worn out prior to application; protective matching satin or matte luster Topcoat-72 is recommended to further protect the colorcoat after Rinse-3.0, even though color may remain intact. Stain removal needs to be continued and completely removed; otherwise it will eventually wick up through the new finishes too.
    4] Repeat application for older penetrated stains and allow for a longer 4 to 8 hours dwelling time to exhaust the stain, then repeat blotting and checking the stability of the leather finish until satisfactory.
    5] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation into creases and towel blot until towel shows clean.
    6] This removal system completes with Rinse-3.0 spray and towel blot to a squeaky clean.

    Restorative Cleaning System
    This is the ultimate restorative or salvage cleaning system that removes accumulated soiling including the unwanted aged old conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. This restorative cleaning is also achieved by the strength of the Prep-7.7 to effectively deflocculates those tough soiling with the help of the detailing horsehair Brush-1.
    Instructions
    1] It is recommended to use tap water for a wet finger test for tackiness or sliminess. If it is, acidifying it with Acidifier-2.0 found in Kit AP3.ts to return the leather to a squeaky feel is highly recommended prior to Prep-7.7 application.
    2] Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, to a panel at a time and let dwell for ˝ to 1 hour to deflocculate tough soiling.
    3] Towel extract the suspended stain and check if the leather color is removed at the same time, especially where the topcoat has already worn out prior to application; protective matching satin or matte luster Topcoat-72 is recommended to further protect the colorcoat after Rinse-3.0, even though color may remain intact.
    4] Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and extract until towel shows clean.
    5] This restorative cleaning system ends with Rinse-3.0 spray and towel extract to a squeaky clean.

    Periodic Cleaning System
    Periodic cleaning is recommended before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times.
    Instructions
    1] Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, to 1 panel at a time.
    2] Towel extracts the suspended soiling until towel shows clean.
    3] This periodic cleaning system ends with Rinse-3.0 spray and towel extract to a squeaky clean.

    Leather Rejuvenating System
    Rejuvenating system is the process of restoring the original fatliquor diminished through aging and cleaning to return to its characteristic suppleness. Leathers, when wet and then dry again, have the tendency for the fibrils to becomes stick together - known as the Van der Waals or London force phenomenon. This results in stiffness and when flexed, may lead to premature cracks, as often seen on neglected leathers. It is recommended to hydrate these exposed leather structure and replenish the diminished fatliquor while it is still damp. When dry thereafter, the leather fibrils will be well separated and lubricated to slide over one another smoothly during practical usage.
    Instructions
    1] Apply Hydrator-3.3 with the foam brush to the exposed absorbent areas, especially the stitching seams and perforated panels.
    2] Semi-absorbent panel is best applied through a layer of paper towel acting as reservoir, to allow a slow seep through the micro cracks.
    3] The entire seat is thereafter wrapped with clear plastic sheet, to control evaporation for an overnight dwell.
    4] A visual and hand massage inspection are to ensure thorough hydrating, with structure softness without blotchiness.
    5] Fatliquor-5.0 follows the same procedure as the Hydrator-3.3, with in between drying application as water evaporates.
    6] When dry the surface is check for strays from milky to clear, using the hydrator to further drive the fatliquor into the leather structure.
    7] The rejuvenated leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.

    Leather Scent Non-Stick Rub Resistant Protection
    This non-stick rub resistant protector keeps leather at its high level of appearance at all times. It not only protects against the detrimental effect of sticky soiling, but also features rub-resistant protection that is incorporated to reduce surface friction wear, often caused by sliding in and out of auto seats. Thus prolonging the life of the finishes. This elusive, unforgettable, classic leather scent much sought after by leather lovers, is infused into these non-stick rub resistant protectors. Leather Scent-D with its draggy feel is designed for the steering wheel and the gear shift knob for a non-slip grip. Leather Scent-B with its smooth buttery feel is designed for the seats. Both these non-stick rub resistant protectors can be mixed to produce the desired tactile feel and luster effect for discerning owners.
    Instructions
    1] Shake well, mists spray, brush spreads, leave to dry and ready for use.
    2] For easy routine care mists spray and wipe with towel.


    The contents of this kit include:

    Leather Doctor® Degreaser-2.2 in 60ml
    This is a pH 2.2 high viscosity aqueous formulated leather degreaser. It’s primarily for degreasing leather of penetrated oil and grease stains from skin and hair contact. It’s also used in assisting in the removing of solvent based stains like permanent marker, paint and nail-polish. Oil and grease based stains like: crayon, wax, ballpoint ink and lipstick.

    Leather Doctor® Prep-7.7 in 60ml.
    This is a pH 7.7 aqueous high viscosity leather preparatory cleaner for pigmented leather types. It is developed to strip foreign soil accumulation to the original finish. It works by dwell-time of ˝ / 4 / 8 / 24 hours intervals to exhaust especially stubborn dye and ink stains, allowing its’ superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do the work. Successive dwell-time with towel blotting is followed through until the stain is exhausted. It has proven to work safely on: grease based ink stains like ballpoint ink; water based ink stains like stamp pad ink; dye transfer stains like blue jeans, leather, ink print and newsprint. It is highly recommended that the remaining sticky residue is thereafter removed in conjunction with Cleaner-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 as a holistic leather-safe system to a squeaky feel.

    Leather Doctor® Cleaner-3.8 in 250ml.
    This is a pH 3.8 all purpose leather-safe anionic cleaner that is particularly effective in emulsifying oily soils and in suspending its particulates. It works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling safely and effectively through gentle chemical reaction; working in perfect harmony with all leather constituents that include the tanning agent, preservative, dyestuff and especially the fatliquor. It's safe for all leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede. This product is always followed through with Rinse-3.0 as a system to a healthy squeaky feel.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 in 250ml.
    This is a pH 3.0 aqueous anionic leather-safe rinse to neutralize harmful alkaline and perspiration residues; for stabilizing and strengthening leather to its neutral pH valuel of 3 to 5/6 chemistry integrity. It's safe for all leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck and suede.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 in 250ml
    This is a pH 3.3 aqueous leather-safe hydrator for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers, often seen as creases and wrinkles; to separate the crushed, stick together fibrils and relax them prior to softening and strengthening with Fatliquor-5.0. It’s to reduce the surface tension in the inter-fibrillary leather structure for effective distribution of the fatliquor. It’s to charge the leather protein fibers below its iso-electric point positive, in order to hydrogen-bond with the ionic negative charged fatliquor. It’s safe for other leather trims that may include aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 in 250ml
    This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor leather rejuvenator. It’s for replenishing original fatliquor that has diminished thru sun-bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning. It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying, they are capable of sliding over one another smoothly. Besides softening the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility; fatliquor enhances its rip tensile strength greatly thus reduces split or tear to the stitching and perforated holes. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles to provide drapes, suppleness and prevents cracking. It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. It’s safe for all other leather trims including; aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

    Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-B in 120ml.
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub resistant protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel with an unforgettable classic leather scent. It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. It is effective to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored leathers easily, without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduces stretch, scuff and abrasion. And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement or the characteristically sliding in and out of the seat.

    Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-D in 120ml
    This is a non-film forming, non-stick, rub resistant protector that enhances a draggy-feel with a classic leather scent especially for the steering wheel and the gear shift knob for a non-slip grip. It imparts a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink. And it does help to release those tenacious dye-transfer stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing. Its natural draggy-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduces stretch, scuff and abrasion. It is also used as a scuff repairer, filling and concealing surface scuffs to improve appearance. The drag produces an unforgettable familiar sound sweet to the ears when leather is rubbed.

    Horsehair Detailing Leather Brush-1
    This horsehair detailing brush is ergonomically designed to be an extension of our hand with sturdy grooved grip, designed to produce an effective result easily and efficiently for many years to come. It’s recommended for all smooth leather, to deliver a scratch-free agitation cleaning. The length is 7 inches with a three row 1˝ inches bristles cleaning head.

    PolyBrush®
    This is the 3” made in USA washable foam brush that last. It’s used for spreading the Prep-7.7, rinse clean and thereafter used for the leather Scent-B and Scent-D application to prevent overspray.

    Washable Rags
    This rag works like cloth, lint free and highly absorbent for extracting suspended soiling or for wiping the leather Scent-B and Scent-D during routine easy cleaning-protection application.

    Refills are available...for more information email info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-14-2011 at 08:15 PM.

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    PM sent for price shipped

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    Spoke with Roger and purchased the kit. (wow, Roger knows his stuff and I Thoroughly appreciate is customer service) I really hope this stuff removes the stain. I have done exactly what Roger mentioned and the seat is curretly soaking overnight with tissue paper and plastic wrap. Fingers crossed.

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    -if stain has not been removed, please give me the next steps!

    To ensure that the stain is removed leave to complete dry for inspection - show some picture before the next move.

    The stain may be completely removed or partially removed. If partially removed the next step is the Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3, repeat what you have done and re-inspect.



    -After stain is removed, use fatliquor doing the same process (tissue paper and plastic wrap) or just brush on heavily with foam brush and let dry natural with no cover?

    The tissue paper and plastic wrap will be more effective to control the fatliquor into the leather, since the leather may not be entirely absorbent direct through the finishing but sideways through the perforated and stitching holes and moves sideward for even penetration and appearance.

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    Thank again for the conversation today Roger. Here is my first attempt and nothing happened except for a huge mess. The tissue paper dried onto my leather seat. Took about 30 min and patience to get it off.

    #1


    #2


    #3


    #4


    Second attempt. Roger suggested that I use the degreaser and more
    Hydrator. Since I used half of my bottle the first go around, he suggested I use distilled water and the his 3.0 rinse in combination with the degreaser to get the pH in line.

    #5


    #6


    #7


    #8


    there is a bit of dye bleed out coming through. Not sure if thats a bad thing
    Hope this works
    Last edited by vrsc; 09-05-2011 at 03:39 PM.

  14. #14
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    Your 1st attempt shows insufficient solution. All the tissue paper on picture #1 should be soak through.

    2nd attempt picture #5 – the entire seat should be hydrated evenly, not leaving edges within a panel. There is a high chance that marks will appear at these edges. Recommendation – the entire surface should be evenly hydrated with massaging at the stain areas with hands, additional tools to use is a tablespoon working over waxed paper to move the stain (the wax paper reduces direct abrasion contact with leather surface). Remember you are working with about 1mm leather thickness where the stains are lodged within. In order to move sufficient solution is needed, the optimum level is a little oozing out of solution when the hydrated surface is pressed. If you see even appearance on the entire seat while it is hydrated, chances that it will dry evenly.

    Picture #6
    The solution level is much better than the first attempt shown as picture #1. Tissue covering is inadequately done to complete covering the entire seat down to the edge. When the stain is not able to move up it will move out. Hopefully it moves up, otherwise the edge of the paper will be the new stain edge.

    Bleeding pictures #6, #7 & #8.
    Bleeding as shown through the tissue paper is where foreign contamination will move up. The stain areas should have additional layers of tissue paper to trap these stains moving up. Bleeding is not a major problem – it could be excess of dyes which is not a problem or a breaking of hydrogen-bonding with the protein leather fibers which can be rectified with Acidifier-2.0.

    The original stains could be a concentration of fugitive dyestuff that is now moving with other foreign contamination.

    Note:

    It is suggested that the plastic is carefully lifted to add extra tissue paper over the stain wicking areas and over the entire leather surface extending down to the edge and rehydrated it to have direct contact as an extension of the leather. Check if the leather has an even appearance by lifting a corner of the tissue paper, otherwise hydrate it. Thereafter the plastic sheet is removed for the wicking process to continue until the leather is fully dry as evaporation takes place at a faster rate pulling the stain through the tissue paper.

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    Thank you for your thoughts. Actually I went ahead and got the entire seat wet, so I should be good. I wet the seat so much that the moisture has started creeping up the back of the seat so I really hope I don't see a stain line there. I will massage the stain area with a small paint roller (no brush attached) and try and push the stain toward a seam or stitch. I will add more moisture to the stained area, then add more tissue paper. I'll let it sit over night covered I'm plastic and tmw Am, I'll remove plastic and let the moisture wick up and start the natural drying process.

  16. #16
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    It sounds that you are doing it with confident and if you can see the stain line is moving while it is highly hydrated, it will be no more there but hopefully move upwards and get trapped by the tissue paper when the plastic covering is removed.

    Show more pictures if you can, I help to see from there!

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com

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    well I decided to go another night with the soaking procedure since I moisture moved futher than I wanted and created an uneven line. It moved over further and now it went up the back of the seat.


    Where the stain was and even with the leather wet, I still have a visible stain even though the wet leather. I have tried pressing the leather and push out the stain with a small paint roller but no change has taken place. Not sure what to make of this but I am really hoping I haven't done more damage with creating a larger ring if the wet ring doesn't dry without leaving a water mark.


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    To work over the stain line, agitate over a plastic sheet to reduce friction rub to the leather finishing.

    From these pictures I believe that the pH value is out of range. To restabilize bleeding we need Acidifier-2.0 instead of distilled water.

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    So does that mean I'll need to redo this wetting producer again with a product that I don't have? I wish that would had been recommended to me before the purchase or included in a kit.

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    Let it completely dry and see if the original stain is gone...we can go from there next.

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    Completely dry. Ring on bottom of seat is gone but the ring on the back part of seat is still there. Also, the stain on the back part of the bottom is still there. There is also a dark stain on the inside of the seat going toward the center.
    Here are some pictures


    Inside seat toward middle



    Outside of seat

    I am looking forward to your suggestions

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    Suspect that the distilled water is not a good substitute for Hydrator-3.3. We may have to rework the fugitive stain again with Hydrator-3.3 instead with help of Acidifier-2.0 to bring the existing pH down to rectify the problem.

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    Roger, thx but the stain is still there (in the perforation area and back portion of the bottom seat). My major concern is the stain on the back portion and the ring on the upper back seat. Do you suggest sanding and removing the topcoat and purchasing a topcoat product from you yet? I would rather take the most successful easiest route. I'll rehydrate my seat again but my truck is still like a sauna because of the humidity that is still in there. The cushion soaked up a lot of moisture and it was a project trying to get the seat panels evenly hydrated.
    Thanks

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    The easiest route is to remove the topcoat, concentrating on the stain itself and over the entire panel preparing the entire panel to be re topcoated for an even appearance. The removal is done by using 1200/1500grit sanding observing only white residue. As soon as color is detected - STOP! Test out with Cleaner-3.8 if the entire panel is wet out easily - this even wetting out can still be work out with sanding (rinse with Rinse-3.0) to even out the appearance while still wet.

    Hydrator-3.3 is to be used to massage the stain away - lay tissue paper for the stain to be caught when dry.

    This topcoat removal will have direct access to the stain...but need to be restored with matching topcoat with either Matte or Satin luster to match.

    Roger Koh
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-12-2011 at 12:38 PM.

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    Thank you for sending this picture that shows the side view of the stain.

    Arrow #1 shows the direction of the movement of the fugitive dyes to the highest level of the curve.

    Arrow #2 shows the same phenomena with concentration to the highest level.

    Arrow #3 shows how the stain to the back was caused by the direction the unwanted stains moving upwards to the back rest.

    The white marking at the highest point is where the topcoat is to be removed to allow these trapped stains to move upwards.

    This shall be the test of removing the topcoat and if it can be hydrated directly, in similar fashion the stain will wicks up form this test area.

    Try it out!

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    Thank you for the continued info. Should I sand the entire solid seat panel? Inside all the stitchings or just sand the stained area?

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    Test out only a portion of the white marked areas at the highest point.

    See if you can hydrate the structure directly after the topcoat removal without any lost of color.

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    Lightbulb

    Ok, was able to find 1500 grit sand paper and I will test sand a portion of it later this evening

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    I sanded a portion of the seat stain but I can't get the sand even. I sanded till I saw color and STOPPED, but it's not an even sand.
    I can easily hydrate it using 3.3. I will stop until I hear more from you. Thank you

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    fyi....dry sanded using 1500 grit. back and fort motion and circle swirling motion but unevenness

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    Texture of leather is grained rather than smooth unlike the body paint...it's OK

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    If you further hydrate it from this spot with a wet out cotton facial pad, you will bring the Hydrator-3.3 in...cover it with cling wrapper...massage it...let it dwell 4 hours or more...than remove the plastic with the cotton pad intact or put in place tissue paper as you did before for the stain to be trapped through. If this works the rest of the work follows.

    1] Hydrator-3.3 has to penetrate the leather structure to reactivate the forign contamination or fugitive dyestuff sufficiently, with enough dwell time.
    2] There must be enough moisture from the leather structure to bring these "stains" out through the wicking process (test by pressing with fingers to see moisture oozing out).
    3] These stains is best be caught by the tissue paper or cotton pad as it pass through, rather than still lodge at the leather surface.

    The whole idea is to flush out the stain with Hydrator-3.3!
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-16-2011 at 05:31 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Texture of leather is grained rather than smooth unlike the body paint...it's OK
    Ok, so you advise to continue? With me not removing the topcoat evenly, will that cause the stain not to be removed evenly? I don't want to remove color and I feel that with me sanding unevenly, I will be removing color.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    If you further hydrate it from this spot with a wet out cotton facial pad, you will bring the Hydrator-3.3 in...cover it with cling wrapper...massage it...let it dwell 4 hours or more...than remove the plastic and place tissue paper as you did before for the stain to be trapped through. If this works the rest of the work follows.
    Ok, I will do this but I am very low on 3.3 and have about half of the 3.0 and 3.8. Can I use these?

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    Quote Originally Posted by vrsc View Post
    Ok, so you advise to continue? With me not removing the topcoat evenly, will that cause the stain not to be removed evenly? I don't want to remove color and I feel that with me sanding unevenly, I will be removing color.
    You would notice that you are removing the high point of the grains, which is where the stain will rise to the top as well, to be pull through.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 09-16-2011 at 05:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vrsc View Post
    Ok, I will do this but I am very low on 3.3 and have about half of the 3.0 and 3.8. Can I use these?
    We do not want to make another mistake of substituting, just we did with distilled water. Do a small test, that way you will not be run out of products.
    Until you are sure it works, then you need sufficient products enough to do it effectively.

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    If you read these mentioned products function, you would known that for internal leather stain removal...Hydrator-3.3 has proven that it will work at optimum moisture level.

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    ok, done. Thank you for your continued assistance.

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    looks like I'll be living with this stain
    Sanded the small area and hydrated 3 times over a 5 day period laying tissue paper and plasatic wrap. No stain came through onto any tissue paper


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    Lay a dry plastic sheet over the test area and stretch with a smooth end of a spoon if the stain lightens up. The plastic sheet is to reduce direct abrasion to the leather surface.

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    I am at wits end here. stain is still the same

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    Color refinishing is an option to think about!

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    Ok, I am all ears. Also, this just happened with a sharp pen that was in sticking out of my bag. I can catch the cut/abrasion with my fingernail so its deep and the topcoat has been damanged. I just heavily spread some fatliquor over it but I guess I'll need to dye it?Please assist. thank you




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    This is the color system recommended to camouflage unwanted stains. The color combination to match close to the exisring color is yet to be determine.
    It may give a different look as these are "opaque" in color unlike aniline that is "transparent" in color. You may have to do the entire leather interior to match if the color and its effect does not match your existing finishes. It would probably require 3 primary color to match closed to your existing color. The effect I talk about is analoqous to a varnish wood and a painted wood. A varnish wood has depth, a painted wood has no depth. If you have decided to switch to an opaque finish, the next step is to do the color matching, repairs will come next and other detail follows thereafter.


    Semi-Aniline Leather Coloring System (12):
    Micro-Pigment Black Color,
    Micro-Pigment White Color,
    Micro-Pigment Tan Color,
    Micro-Pigment Ochre Color,
    Micro-Pigment Maroon Color,
    Micro-Pigment Yellow Color,
    Micro-Pigment Orange Color,
    Micro-Pigment Red Color &
    Micro-Pigment Blue Color.
    Micro-Pigment Gloss Topcoat,
    Micro-Pigment Satin Topcoat &
    Micro-Pigment Matte Topcoat.

    Leather Doctor® Micro Pigment-54
    It’s micro-pigment for semi-aniline leathers.
    It's an aqueous soft compact resin blend high performance pigment color; strong against UV light than standard pigment.
    Standard colors available in Black-512, White-505, Tan-586, Ochre-584, Maroon-502, Yellow-526, Orange-504, Red-554 and Blue-540.
    This product is also available in concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 0.5.
    Thus a quart makes 1.5 quarts of Ready-To-Use product to save on shipping.
    Ready-To-Use packing sizes are available in 60ml, 250ml and in quart.
    Concentrate packing sizes are available in quart (1.5 quarts).
    Email info@leatherdoctor.com for prices.
    Instruction:
    1] Prep clean - use Prep-7.7 follows by Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
    2] Leather rejuvenation – use Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
    3] Strengthen weak and worn areas - use Impregnator-26
    4] Ensure adhesion - use Adhesor-73.
    5] Control flow and color stability - use Thickener-48.
    6] Ensure anchorage – pad first coat avoiding streaking for better penetration.
    7] Ensure uniformity - fine spray and allow in-between drying with subsequent light coat.
    8] Topcoat protection - use Topcoat Micro-72 Gloss, Matte or Satin.

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