First Post and My Project Details of a 2008 BMW M3 Coupe with the Black Novillo Leather!

[ajvee]

Hello,

I joined this website to learn more about leather cleaning and restoration so that I can keep my car's leather seats in good condition.

I have a 2008 M3 coupe with the black novillo leather. The car has 25k miles and there are a couple of issues with the leather that I would like to possibly address and correct.

1) With use, the leather covered steering wheel has become shiny. I would like to restore it to its original matte condition. The same is true of the bolster on the driver's seat. I would like to restore the bolster to its original matte finish.

2) On the driver's seat bolster, a couple of white spots are emerging which I believe are wear scratches from pants constantly rubbing on them while getting in and out of the car. Though these are small and barely noticeable to others, I would like to restore them to the orginal condition. I would anticipate that this would take some type of dye or re-colour. I will update the post with some pictures in a couple of weeks.

3) Finally, the driver's seat is starting to develop wrinkles which I've read to be the leather basically drying over time. I would like to correct this as well.

As far as products are considered, I've been using the BMW leather conditioner kit which is basically a rub in conditioner. I believe I will need more specialized products to address my issues.

I will update the thread with some pictures and hope to document the restoration process within the thread s well.

[Roger Koh]

Welcome to the forum and at the end of the day let us know if it does help?

1) With use, the leather covered steering wheel has become shiny. I would like to restore it to its original matte condition. The same is true of the bolster on the driver's seat. I would like to restore the bolster to its original matte finish.

The build-up of shine needless to say comes from hand perspiration besides other soiling.
It would have a combination of body oil; urea and other soiling transfer rub off.
Particularly it is the urea traces from our perspiration that when ferments off gas ammonia smell.
When ammonia smell is detected, it means that the pH of the urea have shifted to 11.
The average pH of leather “structure” is between 3 and 5; however the “finish” (comprises of the colorcoat and topcoat) when read with a pH meter may gives a reading of between 5 and 6.
It is this pH value difference that is both damaging to the finish and to the structure than any other types of soiling.
To restore to its original matte condition requires the soiling contamination to be stripped down to its original OEM finish; re-topcoat (a choice of gloss, satin or matte) to protected the color coat.
During the wet cleaning, when it is observed that the leather is absorbent; then it is recommended that the leather structure is hydrated and fatliquored to replenish original diminished fatliquor (fat, oil & water; fatliquor is the life-blood of leather; it is this fatliquor that provides softness, strength to the leather for its practical usage with suppleness.

Recommended sequence of process:

Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > (Acidifier-2.0) > Topcoat Micro-72M (matte).

Prep-7.7 is the main product to do the stripping down to the original OEM finish; Cleaner-3.8 is to remove all sticky residue; Rinse-3.0 is to ensure the chemistry pH integrity of the finish is right to a squeaky feel; if it remains tacky or slimy due to alkaline urea exposure; then Acidifier-2.0 will further rectify it squeaky (the suffix of the product denotes it’s pH value – alkaline expand and weakens the leather, acid contracts and strengthen it). The topcoat of choice is then reapplies to replace what’s deteriorated or wear-off.

2) On the driver's seat bolster, a couple of white spots are emerging which I believe are wear scratches from pants constantly rubbing on them while getting in and out of the car. Though these are small and barely noticeable to others, I would like to restore them to the orginal condition. I would anticipate that this would take some type of dye or re-colour. I will update the post with some pictures in a couple of weeks.

The recommended colorcoat is using Pigment Micro-54; however Adhesor-73 is also recommended prior to colorcoating to ensure adhesion without the fear of peeling or delaminating.

Prep-7.7 > Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > (Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0) > Adhesor-73 > Pigment Micro-54 > Topcoat Micro-72M (matte) > Leather Scent-B.



3) Finally, the driver's seat is starting to develop wrinkles which I've read to be the leather basically drying over time. I would like to correct this as well.

Recommended rejuvenating system:

Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0


As far as products are considered, I've been using the BMW leather conditioner kit which is basically a rub in conditioner. I believe I will need more specialized products to address my issues.

Prep-7.7 will remove all unwanted aftermarket conditioner entirely, even if it’s the regretted silicone sheen.

I will update the thread with some pictures and hope to document the restoration process within the thread s well


Waiting for your pictures, to discuss further!


Roger Koh
[email protected]

[MJN]

Welcome and will be looking foward to see your progress

[ajvee]

Thanks for the responses guys!

Roger - your detailed response certainly reflects your passion for your work.

Any idea on whether both the steering wheel and the seat need to be removed to do the work? I would ideally like to avoid this.

I will try to get pictures posted asap, but likely will not start on the project for 3 weeks or so since I am traveling at the moment.

[Roger Koh]

These pictures show how the steering is strip of foreign contamination down to the original OEM finish.

It's similar doing the strip-cleaning with the seats; however when comes to refinishing you have options.

“Padding” application with the colorcoat would provide better “adhesion”.

“Spraying” application (airbrushing) would provide better “appearance”.

But since the leather is somehow textured with grains (not entire a smooth surface), you can use a dabbing technique (avoiding obvious streaks) all the way through refinishing (Adhesor-73 > Pigment Micro-54 > TopcoatMicro-72S) without removing them out of the car.

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Roger Koh
[email protected]

[ajvee]

Roger that work looks great!

When you say stripped down to OEM finish and a topcoat is applied. Does the topcoat only apply to areas where the original surface has worn off (showing the white underneath)?

The reason I ask is because I would be concerned about being able to colour match the leather with the OEM colour.