>>> I guess we need to clean it up first, then see how it scrubs up and apply some color and protective finish ... I'm not too fussed about which type of finish we use, I just want it to look nice and be practical and useful. Do I just go for the "Nubuck Care Kit N3" to start with?

The Prep 4.4 from Nubuck Care Kit N3 will be an add-on, other than a specialty product for unknown stains after Prep-4.4 fails to remove them.

It would be good if you could group all the stains you can find and know beforehand if Prep 4.4 can remove them.

If you decided to color refinish then Aniline Leather Redyeing Kit A7.cl would be a better pick.
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>>> Roger also mentioned it might not be Nubuck... the guy who gave it to me is pretty convinced it was sold to him as "nubuck" but who knows. No manufacturer labels anywhere. Does it make much difference exactly what it is at this stage ... do we just clean it up and see how it goes? Let me know if I should supply any further pictures or closeups.

It is more challenging to refinish in Nubuck than in Aniline.

The pros are nubuck has a more luxurious texture compared to a smooth aniline surface.

The cons are using transparent 'staining' dye may not produce a consistent appearance due to surface soiling or staining contamination.

The skill level is higher and will require airbrushing to achieve a constant intensity.

The even appearance will need to be fixed with an acidifier and rinse off, what ever remains becomes the color.

You may end up with surprises as you also need to recreate the nap to produce a 'finger writing effect'.

Well, now you may know why 'nubuck' is more expensive than smooth aniline.

If you have the will to do it with understanding why not?

If you fail with 'Nubuck' you can always redo it as a smooth aniline.

A more expensive smooth aniline is the waxed aniline, just change the topcoat and protector, and you get a higher-end waxed aniline.