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Thread: How to Degrease and Restore Finish Cracking Natuzzi Wax Pull-Up Leather Sofa and Chair back to its Originality.

  1. #1
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    Default How to Degrease and Restore Finish Cracking Natuzzi Wax Pull-Up Leather Sofa and Chair back to its Originality.

    Hi Roger,

    We have Natuzzi soft leather couch & chair of burgundy colour that is 9-10 years old and showing some signs of body oil staining and some drying out of the most used sofa seat. In my mind, the set has not been abused. More to the point, I believe we failed to find and use appropriate TLC leather maintenance products over the years. It was cleaned regularly and some attempt made to remove stains with a soapy product from IKEA, but unfortunately to no avail.

    FYI, I am very disappointed in the Customer support from Natuzzi. They only recommend periodic cleaning with water and mild soap, which I knew from the beginning to be totally inadequate. Furthermore, I have queried their Customer support web-site on two occasions (years ago and more recently last week) and never got any kind of response! In any event, that is the belly aching and bitching part of the story.

    ...On to what I am hoping you can help with rejuvenating this otherwise very comfortable and valuable set, provide some products to fix the problem and give some sound TLC recommendations to avoid further problems and deterioration in the future.

    Note, Due to upload limits, I have only included 5 pics from the list below:
    Name:  Chair C01.jpg
Views: 7
Size:  148.5 KB - C01
    Name:  Chair C06.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  143.6 KB - C06
    Name:  Sofa S01.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  144.4 KB - S01
    Name:  Sofa S06.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  141.2 KB - S06
    Name:  Sofa S07a.jpg
Views: 5
Size:  153.3 KB - S07a

    Attached are some pictures to guide your diagnosis and proposed treatments.

    8 pics of the chair and 14 pics of the sofa.

    These were taken in the daylight and there are only a few where I used a flash as I found the reflection from that flash was too bright and tended to hide more detail than without a flash. All are e-mail VGA size. If you want a few with higher resolution, let me know which and I will send what images might be better for you to see at a higher resolution.

    Chair:

    - C01 to C06 and
    - C07a & 7b - close-ups of the backrest stains.

    Sofa:

    - S01 to S06 and
    - S07a, 7b, 7c, 7d - illustrating where there is most deterioration, and
    - S08a, 8b, 8c - close-ups panning across the leftmost seat of the sofa from left to right, and
    - S09 - section behind the sofa that should give a good idea of what it should look like as this section has always been 'out of sight'.

    Kindly have a look and let me know what treatment & products are needed together with pricing.

    Thanks in advance.

    Best regards, ...André

  2. #2
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    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada
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    Default

    If you like to post more and better pictures there is no limit to the number of pictures and have the higest resolution possible.

    Good qualities pictures help me to help you better!

    See this link How to Post Pictures:

    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...read.php?t=148

    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®
    604 468 2340 (PST)

  3. #3
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    Jan 2010
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    Default all the other pictures

    Hi Roger,

    Well it looks like we're finally on a track now for the thread!

    Here are the rest of the pics as you suggested. I can see your application piggybacks on other sites to keep you server storage down. Also, a minor item on this one - there is a limit of 20 pictures (per reply posting I presume), so I only added those that were not already in the thread.

    Kindly get me some solution thoughts, products, pricing, shipping and other terms & conditions ASAP. My wife is geting anxious to see what you/we can achieve.

    Now that we are out of the website admin & technology hurdles, am looking forward to something constructive I know much less about - Leather care !

    Thanks in advance, ...andre

    Technology PS : Your login script has a 'remember me' box, but when one logs out, the application clears all the cookies, so I believe the 'remember me box' will never work.

    Technology PPS: Also, an I/T observation about 'no limit to the number of pictures and have the higest resolution possible' - in disk storage, whether its on your site or on the Photo Bucket, the limits are real and ultimately tied to how much disk storage is on-line - and of course, storage costs money, so one has to manage it like any other resource in the business.

    C02

    C03

    C04

    C05

    C07a

    C07b

    S02

    S03

    S04

    S05

    S07b

    S07c

    S07d

    S08a

    S08b

    S08c

    S09

  4. #4
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    Default

    Here is a brief summary of what can be done.

    1] Body Oil and Grease Staining can be removed by - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
    2] Leather Structure Drying Out can be rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0.
    3] Leather Wax Pull-up Effect can be rejuvenated by - wax Effect-8.6.
    4] Leather Color rejuvenating can be accomplished by – either Aniline Pure-21 and/or Aniline T’parent-27.
    5] If it is confirm that this is wax effect than Adhesor73 is recommended over the wax effect prior to top coating with Topcoat Aniline79G.
    6] Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) matches the wax Effect leather types.

    7] TLC recommendations with leather-safe system:
    a. Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    b. Non-Stick Protection with the classic leather scent use – LeatherScent-D.
    c. Yearly or 2-yearly leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    d. Yearly or 2-yearly leather wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    Tools needed for the job:

    1] Detail leather Brush-1 (horsehair), standard brush is an option.
    2] Rags (Kimberly Clark).
    3] Leather Eraser-4.

    Spraying Vs Padding:

    Spraying is mainly for the dye application to produce an even appearance especially to refresh the hue differences and topcoating. An option is to use a Paasche Single Action Airbrush for the DIY. Professionals uses the Devilbiss equivalents for easier faster and more efficient system with better control.

    Padding is simpler by using the paper rags but also requires skills to reduce smears and blotchiness.

    If it is DIY than it is up to you, it’s a matter of aesthetic.

    I will email you the product prices and see how you want to go from there.

    By the way, the label does not tell the leather types.

    We have to confirm if it is an Aniline Wax Pull-up either by doing a pull test yourself or send me a sample.

    See post #2, picture #9
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...?p=299#post299


    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    6

    Default Natuzzi Sofa & chair Q&A

    Hi Roger,

    As suggested, I looked over Jermaine’s restoration and offer the following comments and some questions to clarify:

    1. Although almost identical at first glance, that sofa & chair differ significantly in construction and the extent of damage than the one we have.

    a. Jermaine’s has ‘pocket’ seat and back cushions that re removable, whereas ours is a ‘unibody’ assembly (to borrow a term from the car industry). The seat and back cushions are sewn together part of the unit. I presume Natuzzi probably realized at some point that there could be some leather/cost savings by doing this, and hence newer constructions probably saved 15-25% on leather & labor that is never to be seen. We have another Natuzzi (dating from about 2003 in a micro fiber finish) that has the same assembly – no separate cushions.

    b. From Jermain’s posts, the staining and physical damage is extensive, if not extreme, to a point where I probably would have written if off as beyond economical repair – everything can be fixed given time & money, but it’s not always with a positive return on investment.

    2. When I first saw the picture, I wondered how the restoration managed to puff out and level off the seat cushions. This construction explains it – they had the seat cushions rebuilt and I am sure redid/adjusted some of the stuffing of the back cushions. I don’t have this set-up, nor do I have the problem to start with.

    Next, I have confirmed Aniline Wax Pull-up. See picture of test. Also, further at the end I have add higher resolution pics of the stains & dried out cushions.

    Leather test results:


    Now to comments/questions about the proposed solutions to my problems:

    3. I did some math on the extent of damage and find that 20-25% of the leather requires restoration (some noticeable body oil & drying out), whereas the rest of the surfaces I feel will benefit from a good cleaning and the TLC recommendations, possibly more than once initially over a period of a year or so to get everything back to a more uniform, almost new surface. As info. for your consideration and use here are some numbers:

    - Total leather surface area including backs: 122 sq. ft.
    - Body oil damage area: 10 sq. ft - top of the seat backs that are 25 sq. ft. if one includes the lower undamaged sections of the backs.
    - Dried out seat area: 20 sq. ft., considering all seat cushions although only 1 of the 4 (3 for the sofa and 1 for the chair) show appreciable deterioration.

    4. While I recognize the benefits/disadvantage of a total treatment, there is considerably more work and cost to go that route, so I have a few questions about the behavior of the various solutions in a context of what I will call a ‘touch-up’ restoration.

    a. How does the degreaser affect the dye color – in other words does it also pull the dye to a point where the color is significantly altered and changed?? I saw a post where a very light chair was very badly oil stained where repeated treatments brought out the stain which I consider acceptable differences between de-oiled areas and other areas that appeared left untreated with a degreaser.

    Ref: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ead.php?t=1977

    b. Part of the process for degreasing scrubs with a leather eraser. What is this eraser block composed and how coarse is it as compared to some of the finest sanding I see used on some very damaged surfaces??

    c. Jermaine’s dying process suggests some % blending of the dye and Impregnator 26. I am assuming that this is where the color matching takes place. I don’t expect an exact match when doing the re-dying of the seats and backs, and would extend the blended dye over the whole surface to achieve as uniform and matched a color without major differences or streaks and blotches. What do you think ??

    d. Advantage / disadvantage of total treatment: It goes without saying that I am opting for a padded dying treatment rather than air brushing or air spraying with an HVLP sprayer. I do have a compressor and HVLP sprayer and some very successful experience with partial refinishing of cars with body & paint damage, but I don’t see this working very well on leather, especially with the ‘unibody’ construction and problems with getting an even coating into the folds and tufts. I also feel it’s overkill for the extent of damage we have.

    To summarize, here is what I am proposing.
    I have included sq. footage of affected areas (+10%) to help determine required quantities of the various products.

    1 to 10 is for the ‘touch-up restoration’ followed by a yearly TLC treatment.

    1. All surfaces (122 sq. ft): Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    2. Oil and Grease Staining (10-25 sq. ft, depending on effect to the existing dye) removed by - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0
    3. Leather Structure Drying Out (20 sq. ft, all seat cushions) rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0
    4. Leather Wax Pull-up Effect (30-45 sq. ft, seat & back cushions) rejuvenated by - wax Effect-8.6.
    5. Leather Color rejuvenation (30 – 45 sq ft plus blending over remaining surfaces to 122 sq. ft.) – I believe this is where some blending & tests of the dye match happens.

    Question: Chet & Jermaine’s posts on this step mention the application of “impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPureDye 21”. Your recommendation mentions “either Aniline Pure-21 and/or Aniline T’parent-27” While the final result in Jermaine’s restoration looks OK with Aniline Pure 21 what is the difference if using Aniline T’parent-27??.

    6. Wax effect with Adhesor73 (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) depending on effect to the existing dye)
    7. Top coating with Topcoat Aniline79G (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) – also depending on effect to the existing dye)

    Question: I believe I saw somewhere that there are different top coat finishes, from matte to high gloss. I believe the finish on our set is somewhere in between. For sure, the finish we are looking for is a satin or semi or low-gloss, as I find the shiny finish on Jermaine’s restoration is much too reflective. I am not sure if you can appreciate the existing finish gloss from some of the HiRes pics included below. Anyhow, I find this this is difficult to convey with pictures and nothing to compare with side by side. Do you have a sample post that would show the differences??

    Note: From here on, treatment is for all surfaces (122 sq ft.)

    8. Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) matches the wax Effect leather types
    9. Leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    10. Wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    On-going TLC recommendations with leather-safe system:

    1. Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    2. Non-Stick Protection with the classic leather scent use – LeatherScent-D.
    3. Yearly leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    4. Yearly leather wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    Appreciate your thoughts and feedback.

    An e-mail will follow concerning quotes & suggested product quantities.
    Thanks in advance, ...andre.


    Chair back


    Chair seat


    Sofa back left side (worst one)


    Sofa back center


    Sofa back right


    Sofa seat left (worst one)


    Sofa seat center


    Sofa seat right



    Chair side & Sofa back view that show some differences in the leathers. This was there when the set was purchased and we did get a slight discount for this minor variation. There are also some minor natural variations elsewhere in the dye color that I attribute either to the leather's natural composition or to some of the dying processes that produce a somewhat natural/imperfect final finish, all which is esthetically very pleasing to our tastes and the decor we match this up with.

    Also FYI, the room we have this set in is not too brightly light (facing north/west) and is primarily used at day-end and after sunset, so minor & natural color variations are not an issue.

    Chair side view:


    Sofa back view:

  6. #6
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    Feb 2007
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    Default

    Leather test results:

    This test confirms it is Aniline Wax Pull-up.


    - Dried out seat area: 20 sq. ft., considering all seat cushions although only 1 of the 4 (3 for the sofa and 1 for the chair) show appreciable deterioration.

    The entire leather dries out – what you see in this 20 sq ft is the stress cause to the leather due to stretching and flexing.
    And “impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPureDye 21” may be helpful to strengthen the weak coarse crease.

    4. While I recognize the benefits/disadvantage of a total treatment, there is considerably more work and cost to go that route, so I have a few questions about the behavior of the various solutions in a context of what I will call a ‘touch-up’ restoration.

    a. How does the degreaser affect the dye color – in other words does it also pull the dye to a point where the color is significantly altered and changed?? I saw a post where a very light chair was very badly oil stained where repeated treatments brought out the stain which I consider acceptable differences between de-oiled areas and other areas that appeared left untreated with a degreaser.

    Long term grease and body oil contamination with hydrolysation and oxidation affect the dyes.

    1] The color of the dyes may have changed – go browner in sunlight will be improved by d’Yellow-6.7.
    2] Alkalinity from sweat may cause the dyes to be fugitive – that will bleed.
    3] Bleeding can be reduced with acidifying the leather collagen protein fibrils using Acidifier-2.0.
    4] Using any solution on the contaminated area will cause more bleeding than the non contaminated areas.

    Ref: http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ead.php?t=1977

    Notice the Prep Clean 3 step process is missing for my recommendation here.
    Instead of using the Prep-4.4 as a separate process I have integrated the Degreaser-2.2 to use both as Degreasing and Prep Cleaning all in one go – cut time, a reduction from a combination of 5 steps to 2 steps in a seamless rinsing process.
    Use Degreaser-2.2 to concentrate on the contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa.

    b. Part of the process for degreasing scrubs with a leather eraser. What is this eraser block composed and how coarse is it as compared to some of the finest sanding I see used on some very damaged surfaces??

    For beginners it is better to use leather Brush-1 instead. Scrubbing suggest much use of physical forces which should not applies to leather. Try working on your skin if it hurts should not apply to leather. Leather Eraser-4 is used to dislodge the wick-up soil particulates from the leather grains without hurting it.
    Fine sanding is to smoothen the leather damage surface.

    c. Jermaine’s dying process suggests some % blending of the dye and Impregnator 26. I am assuming that this is where the color matching takes place. I don’t expect an exact match when doing the re-dying of the seats and backs, and would extend the blended dye over the whole surface to achieve as uniform and matched a color without major differences or streaks and blotches. What do you think ??

    There are two parts to the restoration:

    It’s the Structure and the Finishing.

    If you have limited resources and is trying to save here and there, my advice is to concentrate on the structure first to safe the leather, finishing is only aesthetic and any time we can continue from where we left off.

    By the way, Using Impregnator-26 is for structural repairs and it ties in with refinishing.

    d. Advantage / disadvantage of total treatment: It goes without saying that I am opting for a padded dying treatment rather than air brushing or air spraying with an HVLP sprayer. I do have a compressor and HVLP sprayer and some very successful experience with partial refinishing of cars with body & paint damage, but I don’t see this working very well on leather, especially with the ‘unibody’ construction and problems with getting an even coating into the folds and tufts. I also feel it’s overkill for the extent of damage we have.

    Your “Chair side view – Picture” tells me that the only way to blend in the difference hue panel to be aesthetically pleasant is to “Spray coat with matching Aniline T’parent-27. If that is your concern, forget about padding. HVLP is overkill, use a Paasche single action airbrush panel by panel.


    To summarize, here is what I am proposing.
    I have included sq. footage of affected areas (+10%) to help determine required quantities of the various products.

    1 to 10 is for the ‘touch-up restoration’ followed by a yearly TLC treatment.

    1. All surfaces (122 sq. ft): Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.

    Use Degreaser-2.2 for a general “Prep Cleaning” by feathering from the contaminated grease areas.

    2. Oil and Grease Staining (10-25 sq. ft, depending on effect to the existing dye) removed by - Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

    3. Leather Structure Drying Out (20 sq. ft, all seat cushions) rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0

    100% surface area is dry out – these 20 sq ft have to be strengthened by Impregnator-26 recommended to be skipped for connection with Refinishing.

    4. Leather Wax Pull-up Effect (30-45 sq. ft, seat & back cushions) rejuvenated by - wax Effect-8.6.

    100% wax effect rejuvenation is my recommendation

    5. Leather Color rejuvenation (30 – 45 sq ft plus blending over remaining surfaces to 122 sq. ft.) – I believe this is where some blending & tests of the dye match happens.

    Skipped the repair and refinishing for the next phase, as the resources are rechanneled to the 100% above.

    Question: Chet & Jermaine’s posts on this step mention the application of “impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPureDye 21”. Your recommendation mentions “either Aniline Pure-21 and/or Aniline T’parent-27” While the final result in Jermaine’s restoration looks OK with Aniline Pure 21 what is the difference if using Aniline T’parent-27??.

    Jermaine will tell you that T’parent-27 is more important than Pure-21 if aesthetically pleasant is the priority.
    If it is to strengthen the leather structure, than Pure-21 works with Impregnator-26 serve the purpose.

    6. Wax effect with Adhesor73 (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) depending on effect to the existing dye)

    Skipped the repair and refinishing for the next phase, as the resources are rechanneled to the 100% above.

    7. Top coating with Topcoat Aniline79G (30 – 45 sq ft as in 2) – also depending on effect to the existing dye)

    Skipped the repair and refinishing for the next phase, as the resources are rechanneled to the 100% above.

    Question: I believe I saw somewhere that there are different top coat finishes, from matte to high gloss. I believe the finish on our set is somewhere in between. For sure, the finish we are looking for is a satin or semi or low-gloss, as I find the shiny finish on Jermaine’s restoration is much too reflective. I am not sure if you can appreciate the existing finish gloss from some of the HiRes pics included below. Anyhow, I find this this is difficult to convey with pictures and nothing to compare with side by side. Do you have a sample post that would show the differences??

    Not all aniline pull-ups have that glossy topcoat.

    A more natural aniline pull-up goes without the topcoat.

    It solely depends on the Wax Effect-8.6 with its matching Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel).


    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6

    Lightbulb Adjusted Restoration Process Proposal

    Hi Roger,

    Much appreciate your feedback and clarifications.

    However, I am a little confused with some items . Let me try and confirm what you are suggesting .

    Overall, the leather of this set is all dried out with more severe/highly visible damage to some areas with body oil/sweat stains (back cushions mostly, possibly also to armrest tops/edges, though this is not obvious on sight) with stress caused to the seat leathers by stretching and flexing.

    I do have some further comments/questions that follow, but in summary, here is an adjusted restoration process proposal (with assumptions of answers to some of my Qs further below).

    Thanks in advance, andre.

    Kindly comment/adjust as you see fit. Except for step 2, all steps are for 100% of surface, 122 sq. ft.

    1. ‘Integrated’ Degreaser-2.2 on 100% of surface - Concentrate on the more contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa. > Rinse-3.0

    2. If needed, after the degreasing, color change on affected areas (assume 20% of surface) improved by d’Yellow-6.7 and bleeding reduced with Acidifier-2.0.

    3. Leather Structure Drying Out rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0.
    4. Leather Wax Pull-up Effect with - wax Effect-8.6.
    5. Leather Color rejuvenating with Impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPure-21.
    6. Adhesor73 prior to top coating.
    7. Topcoat with Aniline79 (50% mix of 79G & 79M)
    8. Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) matches the wax Effect leather types

    On-going TLC recommendations (no change)

    1. Cleaner-3.8 > Rinse-3.0.
    2. Non-Stick Protection with the classic leather scent use – LeatherScent-D.
    3. Yearly leather structure rejuvenating or replenishing use – Fatliquor-5.0
    4. Yearly leather wax effect rejuvenating or replenishing use – Wax Effect8.6

    Comments/questions:

    - The existing dyes have already been contaminated and degreasing will bring out appreciable differences. i.e.: “hydroxylation and oxidation affect the dyes”. This answers my Q. about the degreasing - there will be significant color alteration after the degreasing step, hence your recommendation to:

    Use ‘Integrated’ Degreaser-2.2 on 100% of surface - Concentrate on the more contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa - which from your new combined Prep/Degreaser formula puts the total leather surface at the same level of ‘prep cleaning’. I gather from Jermaine’s experience and the fact that these body oil stains have been long in maturing; there will undoubtedly be a need for repeated degreasing on more contaminated areas.

    If needed, after the degreasing, color change can be improved by d’Yellow-6.7 and bleeding can be reduced with Acidifier-2.0.

    Using a Leather Eraser is out. I believe I understand the degreasing mechanisms that ‘break down’ the oils and wick them to the surface as a more or less loose powder that needs to be removed by brushing, or as is suggested to Jermaine in a post further extending the dwell time and some vacuum to help the wicking and dislodge the surfaced contaminants/powder.

    Am I on the right track?
    - Your comment: “By the way, Using Impregnator-26 is for structural repairs and it ties in with refinishing.”

    Not sure what you imply. Is this part of the recommendation or not? If it is, when/how does it fit into your initial list of recommendations?
    - Your comment: “Your “Chair side view – Picture” tells me that the only way to blend in the difference hue panel to be aesthetically pleasant is to “Spray coat with matching Aniline T’parent-27. If that is your concern, forget about padding. HVLP is overkill; use a Paasche single action airbrush panel by panel”.

    I am not concerned about this particular variation, it’s out of sight and there are other less obvious variations on other panels that don’t take away from the overall aesthetics. In fact, on some other panels there are color tone variations (some areas within a panel that have irregular/random tone differences, not blotches or streaks) that I assign to the nature of the leather and finishing of a natural product - with a finish that does not hide or cover up these natural irregularities. Possibly, though I doubt it, they are ‘created in the finish’, but in any event I would not want to lose them in the restoration and come out with a very uniform color that would approach the uniformity one typically finds in faux synthetic leathers.

    So I am left with a dilemma on dye: which one?
    …with your overall observation to focus to restore the structure as a priority, I tend to go with Pure-21 in a solution with Impregnator-26
    …on the other side of this dilemma, is Pure-21 a more opaque dye that would hide or cover up natural color tone variations found in the present finish? Have I got this right?

    While on the subject of dye, I believe the color matching may be a little problematic. The set is a burgundy which is defined as “dark grayish or blackish red to dark purplish red or reddish brown”. In fact, I would characterize the set’s color as a ‘blackish red’, which would also tend to hide some of the less pronounced body oil stains. To get to the right color, what basic dye colors should I be working with?
    Your comments: “Not all aniline pull-ups have that glossy topcoat. A more natural aniline pull-up goes without the topcoat. It solely depends on the Wax Effect-8.6 with its matching Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel).”

    Unless I am mistaken a topcoat is protection from all the possible contaminants that a sofa/chair can be exposed to. I would want to finish off with a top coat, possibly as I read in one of your post with a 50% mix of matte and glossy? Our house is an empty nest now, but with 4 grandchildren and regular family & friends visits, a topcoat offers some protection against the inevitable.
    Re: Padding vs. airbrush: I agree HVLP is inappropriate and padding may result in an uneven application. I am still concerned about how to deal with the tufts and folds, especially with the cushion tufts that reach between two panels and somehow would need to be padded in?

    Do you have a suggested airbrush product and Canadian supplier for a Paasche single action starter kit?

    I browsed on the Internet and found what I believe is needed, > Paasche H-SET Single Action AIRBRUSH KIT at

    https://www.wallacks.com/catalogue/c...table=airbrush
    Seems a little pricey @ $95, but then I have not shopped around much.

    http://www.chicagoairbrushsupply.com/paaschehset.html
    Not quite the same and comes from US.

    I will also look around locally in Artist & Hobby shops as I could not find any local dealers on the Internet.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Overall, the leather of this set is all dried out with more severe/highly visible damage to some areas with body oil/sweat stains (back cushions mostly, possibly also to armrest tops/edges, though this is not obvious on sight) with stress caused to the seat leathers by stretching and flexing.


    Yes the entire leather structure need to be hydrated and fat-liquored.


    1. ‘Integrated’ Degreaser-2.2 on 100% of surface - Concentrate on the more contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa. > Rinse-3.0


    Integrate the Acidifier-2.0 for rinsing the grease areas and continue the Rinse-3.0 on the remaining areas.
    The objective of a Degreasing-Prep Cleaning for refinishing is to work every panel to an even appearance.
    Even when it’s wet the entire panel has to look even.
    Shaving with Leather Razor-60 comes in to remove the 80% seemingly “good” finishes to look like the 20% surface damaged areas is very necessary even at this stage.


    2. If needed, after the degreasing, color change on affected areas (assume 20% of surface) improved by d’Yellow-6.7 and bleeding reduced with Acidifier-2.0.


    Sure we can reduce the bleeding by using the Acidifier-2.0 but the need of d’Yellow-6.7 will depends after the dry prep with the Leather Eraser-4 and or fine 1200 – 1500 sanding if necessary.

    Stain Dyeing with penetrating Aniline Pure-21 is airbrushed to even out any dye hue difference prior to leather structure rejuvenating.
    I suggest you skip the dyeing, instead the Acidifier-2.0 helps reduce bleeding and Hydrator-3.3 helps to reactivate the dyestuff from within the leather structure to move and even out the dyes throughout - better than applying new dyes of uncertainty hue/color.


    3. Leather Structure Drying Out rejuvenated by - Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0.


    It’s for the 100% of the leather surface - when done thoroughly might save reintroducing uncertain doubtful colors.


    4. Leather Wax Pull-up Effect with - wax Effect-8.6.

    It’s for the 100% of the leather surface.
    Wax Effect-8.6 does contribute to the overall result of the color, other than Fatliquor-5.0, reactivated existing dyestuff and the Topcoat Aniline-79G brings it all up.


    5. Leather Color rejuvenating with Impregnator 26 mixed with 10% aniPure-21.

    From pictures, I do not see any need for “Structural Repairs” as yet!
    We may make do without the Impregnator-26 and the Aniline Pure-21 until after Dry Prep inspection.


    6. Adhesor-73 prior to top coating.

    It’s to be applied by fine airbrushing.


    7. Topcoat with Aniline79 (50% mix of 79G & 79M)

    Coat Dyeing with Aniline T’parent-27 to even out the hue differences by airbrushing. (Skip if color mixing is a problem).

    Suggest using Aniline-79G only.
    Gloss has the beauty and clarity of depth with better strength.
    The Wax-Effect-8.6 still can be used to adjust the sheen further.
    Picture taken with “flash” is different when we see with our naked eyes.

    Comments/questions:

    - The existing dyes have already been contaminated and degreasing will bring out appreciable differences. i.e.: “hydroxylation and oxidation affect the dyes”. This answers my Q. about the degreasing - there will be significant color alteration after the degreasing step, hence your recommendation to:
    Use ‘Integrated’ Degreaser-2.2 on 100% of surface - Concentrate on the more contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa - which from your new combined Prep/Degreaser formula puts the total leather surface at the same level of ‘prep cleaning’. I gather from Jermaine’s experience and the fact that these body oil stains have been long in maturing; there will undoubtedly be a need for repeated degreasing on more contaminated areas.
    If needed, after the degreasing, color change can be improved by d’Yellow-6.7 and bleeding can be reduced with Acidifier-2.0.

    Thorough degreasing contaminated areas: Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.
    Prep Clean the remaining areas: Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0.
    d’Yellow-6.7 is only an option standby after inspection.


    Using a Leather Eraser is out. I believe I understand the degreasing mechanisms that ‘break down’ the oils and wick them to the surface as a more or less loose powder that needs to be removed by brushing, or as is suggested to Jermaine in a post further extending the dwell time and some vacuum to help the wicking and dislodge the surfaced contaminants/powder.

    You will need Leather Eraser-4 especially on these contaminated areas to remove the wick-up soiling particulates.


    Am I on the right track?
    - Your comment: “By the way, Using Impregnator-26 is for structural repairs and it ties in with refinishing.”
    Not sure what you imply. Is this part of the recommendation or not? If it is, when/how does it fit into your initial list of recommendations?


    By looking at the pictures, I do not see the need for structural repairs - Only used when absolute certain to strengthen weak and stress out areas.
    A macro picture on the worse area may help to ascertain.


    - Your comment: “Your “Chair side view – Picture” tells me that the only way to blend in the difference hue panel to be aesthetically pleasant is to “Spray coat with matching Aniline T’parent-27. If that is your concern, forget about padding. HVLP is overkill; use a Paasche single action airbrush panel by panel”.
    I am not concerned about this particular variation, it’s out of sight and there are other less obvious variations on other panels that don’t take away from the overall aesthetics. In fact, on some other panels there are color tone variations (some areas within a panel that have irregular/random tone differences, not blotches or streaks) that I assign to the nature of the leather and finishing of a natural product - with a finish that does not hide or cover up these natural irregularities. Possibly, though I doubt it, they are ‘created in the finish’, but in any event I would not want to lose them in the restoration and come out with a very uniform color that would approach the uniformity one typically finds in faux synthetic leathers.

    So I am left with a dilemma on dye: which one?
    …with your overall observation to focus to restore the structure as a priority, I tend to go with Pure-21 in a solution with Impregnator-26.

    Impregnator-26 is only used where there is a need for leather structure repair of its looseness or weakness (from pictures I see coarse-breaks or creases – will have a significant improvement with good hydrating to reduce the coarse-break).


    …on the other side of this dilemma, is Pure-21 a more opaque dye that would hide or cover up natural color tone variations found in the present finish? Have I got this right?

    You got it wrong - Pure-21 is a transparent dye.

    You may want to save this dyeing process by compensating your effort to hydrate the leather structure thoroughly instead. In addition to degreasing rinse with Acidifier-2.0 may rejuvenate the dyestuff too.
    The beauty of the color depends on the Topcoat Aniline-79G that enhance it.

    Aniline Pure-21 and Aniline T’parent-27 are both “transparent” dyes.
    Pure-21 is the “staining or penetrating’ dye that has to be applied after Dry Prep and before Hydrator-3.3.
    T’parent-27 is the “coating” dye that is applied after Adhesor-73 and before Topcoat Aniline-79G.


    While on the subject of dye, I believe the color matching may be a little problematic. The set is a burgundy which is defined as “dark grayish or blackish red to dark purplish red or reddish brown”. In fact, I would characterize the set’s color as a ‘blackish red’, which would also tend to hide some of the less pronounced body oil stains. To get to the right color, what basic dye colors should I be working with?

    Rubine is the primary color – secondary toning would be black, red or blue depending which color you want to go.
    I suggest you skip the dyeing process – Dyes unlike Pigment (what you see is not what you get until enhance by Topcoat Aniline-79G). There are more chances of you messing it up.


    Your comments: “Not all aniline pull-ups have that glossy topcoat. A more natural aniline pull-up goes without the topcoat. It solely depends on the Wax Effect-8.6 with its matching Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel).”
    Unless I am mistaken a topcoat is protection from all the possible contaminants that a sofa/chair can be exposed to. I would want to finish off with a top coat, possibly as I read in one of your post with a 50% mix of matte and glossy? Our house is an empty nest now, but with 4 grandchildren and regular family & friends visits, a topcoat offers some protection against the inevitable.


    Test out both the Wax Effect-8.6 and the Topcoat Aniline-79G first before commencing the degreasing work.
    Use only Gloss topcoat – sheen can further be adjusted with the Wax Effect-8.6.
    Wax Effect-8.6 is also somehow can be used as a topcoat for Aniline Wax Pull-up leathers.
    It depends what was there originally.

    For airbrushing I have tried a few, but would stick to Paasche Single Action for this type of work, even on tight corners or impossible crevices.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6

    Question Natuzzi Restoration ...a few more Q&As

    Hi Roger,

    Thank you for you last post/reply with clarifications.

    This time around I hope to confirm my understanding of the restoration process and get more information on a few additional products you are recommending.

    As suggested, I have also included pictures of the worse area (left seat of sofa) and of an undamaged area (back of the sofa) with macro close-ups to help confirm the structural integrity.

    Also FYI: In the damaged seat area, there is a very slight nap to the surface as brushing across the leather surface in opposite directions creates a minor variation in the light reflection. Pics #3 & #6 may be a little fuzzy as I believe I was at the limit of the macro minimum distance. Your last note on this was:

    “By looking at the pictures, I do not see the need for structural repairs - (Impregnator 26 is) only used when absolute certain to strengthen weak and stress out areas. A macro picture on the worse area may help to ascertain.”
    Left sofa seat damage pic #1



    Left sofa seat damage pic #2



    Left sofa seat damage pic #3



    Back of sofa undamaged area pic#4



    Back of sofa undamaged area pic#5



    Back of sofa undamaged area pic#6




    Before I go on, I do have a question about Leather Eraser 4, as your first suggestion in a Jan. 16 post was to avoid it.

    “For beginners it is better to use leather Brush-1 instead. Scrubbing suggest much use of physical forces which should not applies to leather. Try working on your skin if it hurts should not apply to leather. Leather Eraser-4 is used to dislodge the wick-up soil particulates from the leather grains without hurting it.”
    In your last post you suggest I should plan to use it? If I can manage the eraser without harsh rubbing or scrubbing it would be more effective than a brush off?

    Incorporating your latest recommendations, I come up with the following step-by-step.

    I hope I have not left anything significant out. Thanks for your patience and going through this once again for me.

    Please confirm/adjust as you see fit.

    1. > Degreaser-2.2 on 100% of surface - Concentrate on the more contaminated areas and feather it out to the entire chair/sofa

    2. > Razor 60 to remove the 80% seemingly good finishes to look like the 20% surface damaged areas.
    ...?? Q: Does this step come right after the Degreaser or is a rinse needed after the Degreaser before the Razor 60 step?

    3. > Acidifier-2.0 to reduce bleeding.
    ...?? Q: As above, does this step come right after the Razor 60 step or is a rinse needed after the Razor 60 step??

    4. > Rinse-3.0

    5. > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Rinse-3.0 to rejuvenate leather structure drying out.

    6. > wax Effect-8.6.for Wax Pull-up Effect.

    7. > Adhesor 73 prior to top coating (and optional color rejuvenation, see next).

    8. >Optional: Coat dyeing with Aniline T’parent-27 to even out the hue differences by airbrushing. ...?? If this is needed, does the dyestuff need to be diluted when rejuvenating or is it applied straight as supplied? I know you suggest skipping the dying altogether and focus on hydrating the leather thoroughly and hopefully reactivate the existing dyestuff followed by a Topcoat 79G to bring it all up. However, if you feel there is a chance it will be needed for a superior color restoration, I will plan for it.

    9. > Aniline79 G. Topcoat.

    10. > Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) matches the wax Effect leather types.

    Because this is a major restoration, I will only get to do this in the spring when I can get the furniture out to the garage - there is about 2 feet of snow here and that will probably get worse before it gets better. Unfortunately, Montreal is not as balmy as Vancouver, so this project will have to wait a bit. Nevertheless it’s overdue and …better late than much later.

    Could you send along product descriptions & prices for:
    - Acidifier 2.0
    - Razor 60
    - Cleaner 3.8
    Some are new, added from your last post, and the last one one was missed in the e-mail sent earlier in January.

    Finally, would you kindly provide your best estimate of quantities to order for each product needed for this restoration & later for on-going TLC?

    In the end, I am trying to get to what to order and how much of each, as this is a DIY project ...and wish to avoid ordering too little or too much, especially since I can't just drive over and pick-up any extras I may have missed

    Restoration:
    - Degreaser 2.2
    - Rinse 3.0
    - Razor 60
    - Hydrator 3.3.
    - Fatliquor 5.0
    - Wax Effect 8.6
    - Leather Scent D
    - Adhesor 73
    - Aniline T’parent 27 (Rubine 113)
    - Aniline Topcoat 79 G

    TLC (annual)
    - Cleaner 3.8
    - Rinse 3.0
    - Leather Scent D
    - Fatliquor 5.0
    - Wax Effect 8.6

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    2,965

    Default

    Picture #1 show that the topcoat has deteriorated and crack up with corner grease accumulation just like a nubuck would with its fine nap (nubuck is created by buffing aniline leathers with a 320 sanding grit – however it could be created similarly by body weight clothing abrasion too). It also shows creases (coarse-break), and creases are partly the result of diminishing fatliquor (fat, oil and water).

    Pictures #2 & #3 reveal the mud-cracking effect of the deteriorated topcoat. These pictures tell that it is the topcoat that had enhanced and brought out the beauty of the aniline dyed leather.

    Pictures #4, #5 & #6 show the topcoat is intact, however on closer look reveals micro-cracking of the topcoat on picture #6.

    How do we degrease and restore the finish damaged leathers and bringing it back to condition of that of the undamaged leathers (I do not see the need for Impregnator-26 – as the leather rejuvenation process will suffice to help).

    The sequence of steps would include the followings:

    Step 1: Degreasing
    Use Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 and/or Rinse-3.0.
    Acidifier-2.0 is used for rinsing on areas that have body oil and grease to reduce bleeding.
    Rinse-3.0 is used on areas that Degreaser-2.2 is used as Prep for the rest of the non-grease areas.

    Step 2: Remove the Old, Deteriorated, Cracked Topcoat.
    Use Hydrator-3.3 to soak the leather and shave the topcoat clean with Leather Razor-60.
    Hydrator-3.3 lubricates the leather, thus would be saver than using Rinse-3.0 when use this surgical sharp razor-60.
    Residue would be clean-off with Rinse-3.0.
    It is important to maintain the pH value of the wet leather structure to maintain its chemistry integrity.
    Thus so far the pH value put into the leather structure average at 2.83 (2.2 + 3.0 + 3.3).
    This is where a Leather Chemist around the world would like to see if we are restoring their leather furnishing too.

    Step 3: Inspection when Dry.
    When the leather is dry suspended black greasy soiling particulate should wick-up to the leather surface to be erased with leather Eraser-4 to reveal a residue-free surface. Extending the leather surface especially on those grease-up areas with absorbent tissue paper may reduce repeat work – by simply peeling the tissue away (White cotton towel is place on top of the tissue to hold it down during the wicking process).
    Inspect that the entire surface unwanted topcoat is evenly removed.

    Step 4: Stain Dyeing (optional)
    Aniline Pure-21 “staining dyestuff” is applied to those areas that the old topcoat is removed entirely especially those that are faded by UV or sunlight. Staining dyestuff may not penetrate the existing topcoat that may require “coating dyestuff” like Aniline T’parent-27 to do its work prior to Topcoat Aniline-79G.

    Step 4: Leather Rejuvenation.
    Hydrator-3.3 will help to disperse the staining dyestuff at the same time to check for surface tension of blotchiness or streaks with an even spray. While the leather structure is evenly damp spray Fatliquor-5.0 and control it with a foam brush to let it evenly soak in. The more the leather is fatliquored the more supple and stronger it will be. Natural slow overnight drying is preferred for extra softness.

    Step 5: Secondary Leather Wax Effect Rejuvenating.
    Wax Effect-8.6 is applied similar to Fatliquor-5.0 and leave it natural slow overnight dry.
    White fine wax crystal may coat the leather and it is activated by a heat blower or hot hair dryer to melt it in.
    The entire surface may now be buff to even out the wax coating prior to coating it with Adhesor-73.

    Step 6: Adhesion Coating.
    Adhesor-73 may be airbrushed and padded off streaks and drips and let dry.

    Step 7: Top Coating.
    Topcoat Aniline-79G is thereafter airbrushed similar to step 6.
    To check for a smooth coating, otherwise used 1500 sandpaper to rectify it and recoat.

    Step 8: Non-stick Protection.
    Apply matching Leather Scent-D (draggy-feel) with a classic leather scent.

    I suggest you perform this entire sequence on the armchair first before you attempt the sofa.
    Get the smallest bottle size and try it out, it is also a test run on how much supplies you will need.

    From there you would also know how much you would like to stock for your maintenance.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Doctor®

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Hello Roger,

    Thanks for the latest answers & clarifications. I have also seen post #4 in
    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...=3552#post3552

    ...and realize what Razor 60 is! - a round blade !! ...Ignorant that I am, I thought Razor-60 was a medium to strong solution to 'strip/wash off' a topcoat, but on your post its clear this is not unlike stripping antique furniture ...a few inches at a time ...right down to the raw/bare leather foundation.

    In any event, I am reconsidering the need/benefits of a total restoration as the labor hours, materials to clean/degrease, strip, hydrate, dye, topcoat, airbrush, etc, etc; plus some of the risks (...new at this) all lead me to look for a less extensive repair of the damage.

    Don't get me wrong, from what I have seen here that others have done (on LCRF.com with the LD system), I can appreciate this set could be like new (as it was some 9 years ago), but unfortunately I don't see a business case for a total restoration.

    I will no doubt look into and revisit a less extensive solution for the damages (deal with the body oil stains, the dried out foundation and surface wear of the seats), but for now I will defer on much more, as the business case is not there.

    My sincere thanks for your patient advice, insights and support. You've got a superior process, excellent support and a full line of products to pull it all together.

    All the best to you and the team of LD users/LCRF posters, ...André.

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