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Thread: 2007 F250 King Ranch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2019
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    1

    Default 2007 F250 King Ranch

    I have attached a few pictures of the worst areas of my leather. What I am most concerned about fixing is the arm rest which has become disgusting. Could you please recommend which steps and products to use?

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,788

    Default

    >>> The worst part is the armrest, which I am sure, is from my arm being either dirty or sweating on it.

    Leather has a pH value of 3 to 5, vegetable-tanned leather is one point lower then chrome-tanned leathers. King Ranch leather is vegetable-tanned and when any liquid that has a neutral pH value of 7 and above will denatures it. Sweat has a little percentage of urea and when ferments with the atmospheric bacteria turns alkaline and when the smell of ammonia is present its pH value will almost reach 10. This difference of pH value burns or charred the leather just like wood being burn and compromised with its tanning agents. The cracks we see on these pictures is the dryness of the original fatliquor (fat and oil). Without the fatliquor, the life-blood of leathers the leather cracks just like ponds or lakes that dries with mud cracking. So here, we have two basic issues that involve the tanning agents and the fatliquors at the leather structure and grain levels. The two other issues are the cracking repairs and the finishing repairs that we will look into after leather integrity is restored.


    >>> Point is, I have heard your products are highly recommended but am confused as to where to start. I have attached some pictures and hope you can give me some direction on what to get,

    The leather structure issue is address by degreasing and fatliquoring with Leather Doctor Kit-V4
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-v4-...g-removal-kit/


    >>> what to do.

    A - Degreasing:
    Step-1 by Degreaser-2.2 > VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 >>> continue with Fatliquoring while still damp (must not be allow to dry, to avoid further cracking).

    B - Fatliquoring:
    Step-2 by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 (leave to slow natural drying).

    C - Redox (reduction-oxidation):
    Step-3 by Vachetta-2.8 (apply when the leather is completely dry and allow slow chemical reaction to see the lightening effect).

    D - Fatliquoring:
    Step-4 by Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 (leave to slow natural drying). This second application is to replenish further fat and oil to obtain the original 15% of fat and oil content in the leather to restore suppleness with strength.


    >>> and what to expect.

    Most of the “charred” grain is exfoliated just like our dead skin cells. Note, that deeper it goes the rougher the grain texture will be, and it could becomes velvet suede or surface with a fine nap. Repairs to smooth the surface will be further discussed.

    This Leather Doctor system is based on the same science and logic the leather originally tanned by leather chemist, to return the leather to its original biochemistry integrity.

    Leather Doctor Kit-V4
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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
    online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

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