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Thread: Leather Sofa Seats Faded

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    555

    Default Leather Sofa Seats Faded

    Hello,

    I'm not sure which email to send this to, so I sent it to both.

    I need help with my seat cushions. The two outer seats are very faded.

    Leather - semi aniline top grain, not pull up

    color vintage cigar( two tone) purchased from Restoration Hardware.

    Thank you, Tara Andrews.

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    555

    Default

    Yes, it is semi aniline, and the cushion is removable. When the leather is pulled and stretched it does not lighten up. It is definitely distressed leather, not the pull up style. My other RH leather sofa is the pull up style leather.

    I attached more pictures of the sides and back.

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,718

    Default

    Is the seats fixed or removal?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,718

    Default

    From picture #2 leather finishes description:

    >>> “Uniquely crafted in an intensive 7-step process . . . has a perfectly distressed appearance, enhanced by more than 14 hours of hand-finishing . . . variations in color and texture make each piece unique.”


    Before we attempt this project, we should have a little test out if we can come close to this color creation.

    To block off lighter color an opaque pigment color like Micro-54
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/micro-54/
    is used. And a minimum of 3 colors (black, ochre and tan) is necessary as seen from the shading example from:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/color-p...ding-examples/

    To produce the beauty of depth a transparent dyestuff like Aniline-76
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline-76/

    To produce a range of transparency coloring (dark-brown, red-brown, orange, yellow and clear) may be used.
    And between translucency Aniline-76 and Micro-54 are combine as well.

    Let me know of your continuous interest.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,718

    Default

    >>> So do I need to buy the kit with the color black, and then buy micro 54 in ochre and tan, and possibly maroon?

    Leather Doctor Kit-Sa7.cl is the closest starter kit holistic color refinishing system, yes and products necessary is added to it, and refills may also be require accordingly especially the leather rejuvenating system with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.
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    >>> Do I mix together the 4 colors together for color matching?

    No, that then you only achieve ONE color. The colors are to stretch out the range and depth these color can produce.
    I recommend that you have a cardboard to test match out the color samples you have or feather out from surrounding color to achieve a continuous appearance.


    >>> What color aniline 76 should I purchase?

    What I mentioned in my previous post I copy and paste here:
    “To produce a range of transparency coloring (dark-brown, red-brown, orange, yellow and clear) may be used.”


    >>> Also, is it necessary to strip the existing finish?

    Worn and deteriorated finishes after Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0/Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Sand and is ready to seal with Adhesor-73. Adhesor-73 besides promotes adhesion, it also used as a scrub with a nylon pad to removed deteriorating finishes. It will further intensify the color into a deeper shade.


    >>> I did a water absorption test and it absorbs water, but the actual sample doesn't absorb water, it just sits on the sample. I wipe it away and you can't even tell water was sitting on the sample. On the couch I put drops of water on the faded/ worn areas, and it absorbs immediately. So I tested water absorption on the arms and the top of the couch it also absorbed water. The only place on the sofa that is like the sample and doesn't absorb water is the back and the sides. I find this strange. Dud they use different leather, or is the back and sides protected with something different?

    Places that doesn’t absorb water means that the finishing, especially the topcoat (MicroTop-54 in Gloss or Satin) has already crack through, or worn out. The absorbent areas when Adhesor-73 > Micro-54 > Aniline-76 > MicroTop-54 system is put in place will return to pre-existing conditions of non-absorbency.

    Note:
    All the cracks in lighter shades are faded leather grains, with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 activation, the dormant dyestuff will resurface and makes these color contrast less evident. Leather rejuvenation also strengthen dry rot weakens leather grains for better adhesion.

    You would need extra refills to properly rejuvenate the dry leathers, from tannery the average percentage is 15% measured with a leather moisture meter. This is the only time that the absorbent areas leather dryness of its original fat and oil is replenished, otherwise the effort of refinishing will crack too soon. More readings on fatliquoring here . . . http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/

    Further questions are welcome.

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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
    online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

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