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Thread: Early King Ranch leather seats

  1. #1
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    Default Early King Ranch leather seats

    >>> After reviewing the many posts available i am pretty sure i need the A5 kit. My question is doni need the eraser and prep4.4

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  2. #2
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    Roger it was a pleasure speaking with you. Guide me in ordering products and restoring these seats. I think I understand the basic principle behind your system but guidance is greatly appreciated.

  3. #3
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    Oct 2018
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    So in response to your email I am ordering the A7 kit. This means I will probably need more guidance than I originally thought. Be gentle with me!!! I don't have a Phd in chemistry... just a firefighter

  4. #4
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    Here is my recommendation in restoring the seat.
    From pictures we can see that the soiling conditions vary, dryness of leather varies as well that manifest as cracks.
    The utmost important is not to worsen the existing cracks. And soiling conditions is equally matched with corresponding products.

    Picture #4.

    I should say that these seats are generally lightly soiled with only a dark unknown spot.
    I recommend cleaning only a section of the single seat either back or seat to experience how the leather response.
    The sequence of steps is as follows:

    Step-1 Dry Soil Removal:
    Brush-1 > Eraser-4 > Vacuum system.
    And a clean white cotton terry towel test, for soiling, to satisfaction.

    Step-2 Preparatory Cleaning:
    Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 system.
    Prep-4.4 is transfer to Brush-1 and brushed “very evenly” (without blotchiness, otherwise end result may reveal unwanted streaking) to entire surface and allows to dwell as long as possible or before it dries up. Clean-3.8 is to clean up sticky residue with help of Eraser-4 and Brush-1 and white cotton terry towel extract until towel shows clean. Rinse-3.0 follows the same procedure as a rinsing process free of suds to a squeaky feel. Test with fingers to detect any tackiness or sliminess, otherwise pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 to a healthy squeaky feel while the surface is still damp or about 25% total moisture content. Continue with Step-3 while the leather is still damp with Hydrating process.

    Tips:
    Must avoid the leather from going dry, before Fatiquoring (Fatliquoring is the end of this wet process, otherwise cracks may become worse from the lack of fatliquor - Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leather, replacing the original blood when the skin was alive)

    Step-3 Hydrating Process:
    Hydrator-3.3 system.
    Hydrator-3.3 is applied to saturate the leather structure - for these reasons:
    1st To flush out embedded or penetrated soiling.
    2nd To relax the shrunk and separate the stick together leather fibrils
    3rd To precondition prior to Fatliquoring, so that it will easily reach to the entire leather fibril structure for suppleness when dry.
    The leather surface is brush and erase and towel extract until towel shows clean - any coloring is a good sign that the dyestuff is activated and intensify the surface fadings. If there is any sign of blotchiness (pH imbalanced), Acidifier-2.0 application would even out the appearance. Keep the leather at about 25% total moisture content or damp and proceed to Fatliquoring process.

    Step-4 Fatliquoring Process:
    Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system.
    Fatliquor-5.0 is applied evenly with help of foamBrush-3 to saturate the leather with a milky surface. As the milky fatliquor is suck in and water content evaporates, more is applied until the absorption slow down. Let it slow dry and any sticky residue is clean up with Hydrator-3.3. When the surface is almost dry Eraser-4 begins to work and towel extract any remaining wick up soiling.

    Step-5 Inspection:
    The appearance is evaluated for cleanliness and the leather structure is tested for suppleness.

    Step-6 Clear Topcoating:
    AnilineTop-86G > AnilineTop-86S system
    With satisfaction topcoat may be used, typically the gloss is used first then follows with luster adjustment with satin.
    Topcoating will further intensify the beauty of depth, just as Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 also contributed to the color intensity from fading.

    Step-7 Dyeing Option:
    Aniline-86 transparent coating dyestuff system as an option.

    Step-8 Non-stick, Rub-resistant Protection.
    Only with satisfaction that this last step is performed.

    This should be the first trial; with experienced we can handle the other soiling category with much confidently.

    Next I shall discuss how best to handle the unknown stain.

    Before I end with Degreasing for picture #1 and #2.

    Meanwhile, if you have any question.

    Also look at this problem-solving guide.
    Name:  aniline-a.k-2-king-ranch-leathers.jpg
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    If you see row E1 - the "darkening effect" , you see in picture # 1 and #2 above, you would need the minimum of "Vachetta-2.8" in the system and evaluate from there.
    Vachetta-2.8 is found in this Kit-V4
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-v4-...g-removal-kit/

    or as an individual product here:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/vachetta-2-8/

    Name:  RogerKoh-email.jpg
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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-23-2018 at 04:48 PM.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the help. I will contact the previous owner and attempt to determine the liquid that stained the passenger seat. There is a little coffee on the carpet in front of the console so at this point I suspect coffee..

  6. #6
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    >>> I suspect coffee..

    Coffee with milk or cream - see line B5 follows with B6 (compound stain) of above matrix.

    If black coffee only then see only B6.

  7. #7
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    Finally got hold of the previous owner and they are not coffee drinkers... she drank milk based protein drinks... probably chocolate

  8. #8
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    It is still a compound stain.

    First have to remove the protein component - with Line B5.

    Then follows with Line B6 for all chocolate, coffee or any tanning stains that derive from plants and vegetable matter.

  9. #9
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    Here is my progress so far. Its not perfect but these are 18 year old seats. I did all of the small rear seat and the bottom of the large rear seat. I've used probably 2/3 of the hydrator and fatliquor so far to get this[ATTACH=CONFIG]8756. I have not gone past the fatliquor stage with these seats. I am trying to see if I can get the rear seats the same color before I attempt that. So far so good for my expectations.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by 86hand; 11-02-2018 at 05:23 PM.

  10. #10
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    Name:  20181102_175020.jpg
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Size:  3.26 MB here is another photo. The camera makes the imperfections stand out more than in person
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by 86hand; 11-02-2018 at 03:27 PM.

  11. #11
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    The stain on the small seat is is not coming out with what I have. I can live with it. One thing I noticed is that the camera makes the imperfections more noticeable than in person. Im going to have to order more hydrator, fat liquor and the Vachetta before I even think about attempting the front seats.
    Last edited by 86hand; 11-02-2018 at 05:20 PM.

  12. #12
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    Is there something I can do to get the small rear seat and large seat bottom a little darker?? The large seat back obviously has not been exposed to as much sun as the small seat.
    Last edited by 86hand; 11-03-2018 at 09:08 AM.

  13. #13
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    >>> The stain on the small seat is is not coming out with what I have. I can live with it.

    We need to test out this unknown stain:
    1- Use the smooth handle edge of a spoon and light stretch it if you see the color lightens - take a picture.
    2- Test with Eraser-4 if erasing lightens up - take a picture.
    3- If the 2 above does not show any improvement - have you try line B1 - Penetrated, oil & grease stain system?

  14. #14
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    >>> Is there something I can do to get the small rear seat and large seat bottom a little darker??

    By saturating the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 sometime may activate the dormant dyestuff to resurface.
    Fatliquor-5.0 (fat and oil) saturation up to 14% and above also contributes to intensify the hue.

  15. #15
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    >>> The camera makes the imperfections stand out more than in person

    The “imperfections” is the natural beauty of the grain, personally I like to see more.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Is there something I can do to get the small rear seat and large seat bottom a little darker??

    By saturating the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 sometime may activate the dormant dyestuff to resurface.
    Fatliquor-5.0 (fat and oil) saturation up to 14% and above also contributes to intensify the hue.
    Amazon lost the moisture tester I ordered....dang. I am definitely going to order more product. I don't have enough to saturate the seats to that extent. I will probably order the quart concentrate of fatliquor. As dry as these seats were the fronts are extremely dry. I have sprayed the drivers seat a couple times with hydrator to soften it up and It is getting a little softer.

    I tested the large seat back with a little hydrator and spots show up that you could not see before. Hidden unknown stains? They did take a dog in the back from time to time. dog drool spots??

    On the stain on the seat bottom of the small seat was barely visible before I started the process now its more prominent.

  17. #17
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    Here is my progress.. the rear bench bottoms are up to the first topcoat stage.

    Name:  king ranch rears.jpeg
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Size:  3.64 MB

  18. #18
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    here is the passenger seat after using protein stain remover on the unknown stain followed by hydrating, fat liquor. The seat is quite a bit darker than this photo presents. the leather is still pretty stiff and Im not sure even after ordering a quart of fat liquor and 2 more bottles of hydrator that I am not going to need even more.

    Name:  king ranch passenger.jpeg
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Size:  3.42 MB

  19. #19
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    >>> Here is my progress.. the rear bench bottoms are up to the first topcoat stage.

    Thanks, what did you use for the application?


    >>> The seat is quite a bit darker than this photo presents.

    1- There is a possibility of oily contents in the stain as well to gives the dark appearance.
    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 helps to reduce the dark appearance.

    2- Alkaline pH present also will contribute to the dark appearance.
    VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 Hydrator-3.3 also helps to reduce the dark appearance.

    3- Surface soiling removal with leatherEraser-4 also helps to reduce the dark appearance.

    4- Stretching the leather gently and forcefully with a blunt smooth object will also lighten the appearance.

    5- By redox (reduction-oxidation) reaction, will lightens the appearance of vegetable-tanned leathers.
    Apply Vachetta-2.8 to the dry leather evenly with help of foamBrush-3 and let dry for the lightening effect.


    >>> the leather is still pretty stiff and Im not sure even after ordering a quart of fat liquor and 2 more bottles of hydrator that I am not going to need even more.

    The stiff leather need first to be relaxed with Hydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather with a little moisture oozing out when gently press with fingers. Allow to maintain the level of moisture content in the leather structure as long as possible, perhaps closing the door and away from heat or direct sunlight. When the leather is almost dry or 25% total moisture content, Fatliquor-5.0 application begins with foamBrush-3 control. It is applied for even appearance and is repeated each time the fatliquor is been absorbed. 5/6 of the water contents needs to be evaporated eventually leaving behind only 1/6 of the ionic positive (+ve) charged fat and oil to supple up the leather. Remember, a very slow drying produces a softer leather. And finally, any residue is clean away with Hydrator-3.3.

  20. #20
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    I used a small piece of cotton terrycloth soaked in topcoat.

    I believe the pictures are after eraser-4 usage. Now I going to need another one.

    I don't have any Vachetta 1.2, only Vachetta 2.8 and I am probably going to use the last bottle of Hydrator on the passenger seat and leaves me none for the drivers seat....crap....

    I am in Texas... so keeping out of the heat and sun is tough. I might have to take the seat out.

    This is not an inexpensive process. I look at some of the seats in the other posts and I cringe..

    I have used..... about 600ml of Hydrator, 800ml of fat liquor so far between the rear bench seat, rears of the front seats and the passenger seat and I still am not finished with the passenger seat and I have not even started on the drivers seat.

    I have to soak the heck out of the seats just to get 25% moisture much less let it dry to 25%
    Last edited by 86hand; 4 Weeks Ago at 01:00 PM.

  21. #21
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    >>> I used a small piece of cotton terrycloth soaked in topcoat.

    The foamBrush-3 or the lint free Towel-5 is what I commonly used.


    >>>I don't have any Vachetta 1.2,

    Vachetta-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system is used for cleaning and ionic positive (+ve) charging of the protein leather fiber for a more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative (-ve) charged Fatliquor-5.0.


    >>> only Vachetta 2.8
    Vachetta-2.8 is used for redox (reduction-oxidation) when the leather is dry after Fatliquoring.


    Online-Life-Coaching is now available for a better understanding of techniques described and procedural (when and how) timing. Example, most users seem to wonder how to use the little leather Brush-1 efficiently.

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    Roger Koh
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    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Online-Life-Coaching
    online store: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  22. #22
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    So to lighten the leather I use vachetta 2.8... how much and how long do you leave in on before acidifier?? after acidifier then adheasor... which I don't have dang...

  23. #23
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    >>> So to lighten the leather I use vachetta 2.8...

    Vachetta-2.8 will not lighten up grease, oil and sweat remaining residue - it has to be repeat degrease accordingly.
    Vachetta-2.8 lightens up fugitive tanning agents that darken the surface. It also reduces the sun tanning effect just like our light skin that darkens. It works by redox (reduction-oxidation) chemical reaction.


    >>> how much and how long do you leave in on before acidifier??


    The entire seat has to be treated without a dry edge and deeper will go below surface appearance. Acidifier-2.0 is to remove any cloudy residue if any for a clearer appearance.


    >>> after acidifier then adheasor... which I don't have dang...

    Adhesor-73 will ruin the appearances; it will have an almost permanent darkening effect. Definitely not to be use in this case, unless for a surface color refinishing that covers it up.

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