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Thread: Vintage lambskin Chanel bag leather hard and dull/wrinkles

  1. #1
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    Default Vintage lambskin Chanel bag leather hard and dull/wrinkles

    Please guide me through the steps and products I need to restore these two Chanel bags.

    I bought the red small classic flap from a second-hand bag dealer who stupidly had it waxed before shipping to me. The shiny lambskin leather became hard and dull. After reading previous posts in the forum, I understand I will definitely need the K-3 kit to clean, hydrate and fatliquot the bag. Do I need to use the degreaser as well?

    The black medium flap has these wrinkles on the quilts. Should I just follow the clean-hydrate-fatliquot step? Thanks a lot!
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  2. #2
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    >>> … waxed before shipping to me. The shiny lambskin leather became hard and dull.

    To remove this unwanted wax (not even know what wax was used) the only possibility is to used Degreaser-2.2 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 with the help of leatherEraser-4 and leatherBrush-1 in this case. Note: Test in on a square at the bottom and see the response before proceeding to the entire bag. To rectify the dullness thereafter is to use AnilineTop-76G. The close-up pictures shows shrinkage and cracks and sure will need Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. We can discuss more details into the combine system into a sequence. The wet process starts with Degreaser-2.2 and ends with Fatliquor-5.0. The gloss topcoat refinishing is perform after the leather is dry and is prep prior to application.


    >>> The black medium flap has these wrinkles on the quilts. Should I just follow the clean-hydrate-fatliquot step?


    Wrinkles develop when the leather is dried of its original fatliquor averaging 14% of ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil. As the fat and oil contents diminishes through evaporation the leather fiber structure collapse and shrunk that manifests as wrinkles. Prior to the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 process. It has to be clean first and the mildest cleaning system is by Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 and while still damp the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system continues.

    You may used this guide accordingly . . .

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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  3. #3
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    The gloss topcoat refinishing is perform after the leather is dry and is prep prior to application.
    What products do I need for this step?


    It has to be clean first and the mildest cleaning system is by Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 and while still damp the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system continues.
    Do I need the prep 4.4 for the black bag?

    I will purchase all the products I need. Could you please guide me through the steps for each bag? Thanks a lot!

  4. #4
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    >>> What products do I need for this step?

    AnilineTop-76G you can find here:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline...ss-heavy-duty/

    or, An Aniline Topcoat kit is available as:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a6-...finishing-kit/

  5. #5
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    >>> Do I need the prep 4.4 for the black bag?

    See Line #6 Accumulative (restorative cleaning) in 6 steps . . . as a holistic cleaning system.

  6. #6
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    >>> Could you please guide me through the steps for each bag?

    Red Bag - holistic sequence in steps:

    1- Dry Soil Removal
    Use Eraser-4 and Brush-1

    2- Preparation Cleaning for Topcoat Refinishing
    Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3

    3- Hydrating:
    Hydrator-3.3

    4- Fatliquoring:
    Fatliquor-5.0

    5- Residual Surface Cleaning
    Hydrator-3.3

    6- Dry Preparation
    Use Eraser-4, Sand2000, Brush-1, etc. without damaging the color coating.
    (White residue from sanding indicate the clear topcoat, when color shows during sanding, stop).

    7- Top Coat Refinishing:
    Application by optional foamBrush-3, fine airbrushing with a Paasche system or facial make-up foundation brush. I prefer to use the facial brush and apply each diamond individually. You may test out to satisfaction prior to application (easy to apply, more difficult to remove, if it becomes necessary).

    8- Non-stick, Rub-resistant Protection:
    Protector-B+/B.


    Black Bag - holistic sequence in steps:

    See Restorative Care from this link:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-...ther-care-kit/

    This is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Using Prep-4.4 performs restorative cleaning. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas by . . .

    1st step - Restorative Cleaning: Instruction . . .
    1- Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
    2- Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
    3- Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean.
    4- Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean.
    5- Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Its surfactancy helps check for surface tension of blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.

    2nd step – Hydrating: Instruction . . .
    1- Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate with an even appearance to soften up the leather.
    2- Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes and towel extract wick up soiling until it shows clean. Fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.

    3rd step – Fatliquoring: Instruction . . .
    1- Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
    2- Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
    3- The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4- Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

    4th step – Protecting: Instruction . . .
    1- Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    If you need on-time video coaching, do email me for the arrangement.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 11-03-2018 at 01:41 PM.

  7. #7
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    I'm sorry to ask again. I looked through your first reply and the more recent reply, the steps you provided for the red bag are different in the two replies. According to your most recent reply, I should use the acidifier-2.0 instead of clean-3.8 and rinse-3.0 after degreaser-2.2 and before hydrator-3.3? Thanks a lot!

  8. #8
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    >>> I bought the red small classic flap from a second-hand bag dealer who stupidly had it waxed before shipping to me. The shiny lambskin leather became hard and dull.

    >>> I'm sorry to ask again. I looked through your first reply and the more recent reply, the steps you provided for the red bag are different in the two replies. According to your most recent reply, I should use the acidifier-2.0 instead of clean-3.8 and rinse-3.0 after degreaser-2.2 and before hydrator-3.3? Thanks a lot!



    When we look at the Leather Problem Solving Matrix on the usage of Degreaser-2.2, we find it generally follows with Acidifier-2.0. When follows with Clean-3.8, it is an extra cleaning that follows with Rinse-3.0. As both Acidifier-2.0 and Rinse-3.0 are both used as rinse with different of pH value. So, technically both are correct and can be used inter-changeably. However to remove the unknown wax, we would not know how effective it will be until we test a little corner of hidden area to determine. Stripper-2.3
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/stripper-2-3/
    is the more certain product to use when stripping the unwanted wax is concern. Note that we may have to approach at a weaker strength (add Acidifier-2.0 in ratio parts) to test it out with a cotton bud not to strip off the original clear finishes and the coloring to satisfaction.

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