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Thread: Bicast Leather Couch - sticky!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    Default Bicast Leather Couch - sticky!

    Thank you Roger.

    Here are some photos before and after. There was considerable material stuck on the couch and I spent a lot of time removing the debris via step 1 (cleaner, eraser, scrub brush). Then did degreaser and all looked good. Next I used the acidifier but the stickiness I found never went away. After drying I used the sandpaper.

    All felt smooth, no debris but it was still sticky.

    Then is used crosslinker with the bicast as per instructions and left overnight.

    Still sticky.

    Finally I used the protector-b, still sticky.

    Thank you for your assistance,

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    Rob

  2. #2
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    >>> You mentioned there should be no stickiness after step 2 so I would like to know exactly what step that is. I want to try again.



    Instruction . . .

    Step-1
    Preparation: 1- Protect floor with plastic covering from over-spray and drips prior to restorative cleaning and stripping accumulated soiling. 2- CleanPro-1.5 is spray and work with horsehair Brush-1 and Eraser-4 and towel extracted until towel shows clean. 3- Use the Eraser-4 sponge side for normal cleaning and the crepe side for extra scrub from embedded materials. 4- Degreaser-2.2 is used in combination on the body contact oil and grease areas especially to the headrest and the hand-rest. 5- Shake the Degreaser-2.2 from separation to gel prior to use. 6- Apply by brushing with Brush-1 and/or scrubbing with Eraser-4 to remove surface soiling. 7- Suspended soiling is extracted with a lint-free towel or cleaning sponge until towel shows clean. 8- Spray Acidifier-2.0, agitate with Brush-1 and Eraser-4 and extract until towel shows clean again. 9- Inspect for reduced tackiness, otherwise spray soaks Towel-T5 with Acidifier-2.0 and place until towel dries for inspection. 10- When dry, sand surface roughness and ensure free of foreign material. 11- Surface is ready for topcoat application when smooth and free of residues.

    Step-2
    Refinishing: 1- Empty the Crosslinker-25 25gm bottle (about 10%) into the BicastTop-76G 220gm bottle and swirl very well. 2- Once the topcoat is cross-linked, it is best to used within 8 hours, otherwise it will be cured hard and be useless. 3- Apply by foamBrush-3 lightly to avoid streaks or finer soft varnishing brushes for streaks free result or airbrushing for professional result. 4- Dabbing with bristle brush reduces streaks as well as using a roller sponge. 5- Steaks are corrected by fine sanding when dry. 6- Use a hair dryer for speed drying in-between coats to satisfaction. 7- Let it overnight cure before non-stick Protector-B application.

    Note: Only with satisfaction that step-3 is followed.

    Step-3
    Protection: 1- Protector-B is applied evenly with either foamBrush-3 or Towel-5 and is ready for use when dry. 2- For routine application, a paper towel is recommended to simultaneous soiling extraction.

    Name:  RogerKoh-email.jpg
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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    I have started the process over and used degreaser and acidfier as per instructions. The area that was sticky seems ok but the area where the leather was in good shape/not sticking is now slightly sticky. I have stopped after acidfier and posting before proceeding.
    Suggestions are welcome.

  4. #4
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    >>> The area that was sticky seems ok but the area where the leather was in good shape/not sticking is now slightly sticky.

    Any questions you need to ask for in Step-1 instruction?

    Any stickiness should be reduce according to Step-1 instruction, before proceeding to Step-2.

    You may need help from someone reading the instruction for you to follow, so as to trouble shoot which step you may have miss.

    If you need my help to trouble shoot your procedure by video conferencing just email me for the arrangement.

  5. #5
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    Default

    Alternatively, you may record your step-by-step procedure and post a a video here for us to trouble-shoot which step when wrong.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
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    I am a technical person and have followed the instructions. I would like some real help for a solution. As mentioned the very damaged areas are no longer sticky, but area surrounding the damaged area are sticky. I did not sand those areas as there was no previous damage/stickiness. I did use cleaner, degreaser and acid solution on the entire area. I think I am close but I would like a recomendation how to completely remove this residual stickyness.
    Thank you Roger for your assistance and commitment to resolve.

  7. #7
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    >>> but area surrounding the damaged area are sticky. I did not sand those areas as there was no previous damage/stickiness.

    Please do a test areas accordingly to that done to the damaged areas and evaluate the result.

    Tell us what you did that the damaged areas are no longer sticky?

    And if you follow the same process, you would logically get the same result to the surrounding area as well.

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    See product description and instruction here ...
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-b7-...nishing-kit-1/
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 1 Week Ago at 12:17 PM.

  8. #8
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    The entire area was done the same. Why one area is stcky and the other isnt’t, I don’t know. I was hoping you could assist but the only responses you give are that I am doing something wrong and you post the standard instructions. I do feel your products work, but something is a bit different on my couch. Thank you.

  9. #9
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    Could you show pictures of the - "very damaged areas are no longer sticky, but area surrounding the damaged area are sticky." - hope, we may be able to see the reasons.

    This sticky area is before Step-2 of refinishing, right?
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 1 Week Ago at 08:46 PM.

  10. #10
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    Oct 2018
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    https://www.icloud.com/photos/#0YeIn...mQXmVmztM6aGFA

    https://www.icloud.com/photos/#06nS_...ElLXdQkbXm8Wqw

    The URL feature for adding a photo didn’t work, hopefully you can see these links.

    As you can see tge sticky area now seems to be around the main area that was a problem before. I did the same process everywhere. The only difference was the areas that are now sticky had no material stuck on them.

    Thank you for your assistance,

    Rob

  11. #11
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    This is how you post picture . . .

    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...30-How-to-Post

  12. #12
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    Oct 2018
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    That method to post pictures doesn’t work on an iPad. I have tried all browsers that are supported on an iPad; Safari, Chrome and Firefox. None have a display like your instructions.

    The links I provided work, just click on them and you will see the pictures.

  13. #13
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    At what stage of the process are these pictures taken - from the instruction Step-1 or Step-2?


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  14. #14
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    The pictures are from the end of Step-1. Should there be no stickness before proceeding to step 2? If so is there a particular part of Step 1, I should repeat? Note, surface is now very smooth and no debris.

    Thank you

  15. #15
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    >>> "I did not sand those areas as there was no previous damage/stickiness."

    From the pictures the (OK) areas are without the clear topcoat.

    The surrounding (X) areas still have the deteriorating topcoat, with our eyes, hard to detect, but eassily feel with our skin or finger tips.

    Step-2 is a refinishing of the deteriorating topcoat, so logically the existing topcoat has to go completely.

    In this Bicast leather finishes there is this opaque color coat (Bicast-32) that block off the leather crust
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/bicast-32/

    and also the transparent color coat (Bicast-76) that amplifies the beauty of depth imitating aniline leathers
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/bicast-76/

    What went bad to this finishes is the (BicastTop-76G) that need to be removed and replaced to rectify the stickiness.

    Recommend that an oscillating sander is used . . .

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    A sanding pad is better to control then just with our hands . . .

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    Sanding disc recommended is 800, 1000 & 1200 grit.

    Sand as long as no color residue is removed - white powder indicates the unwanted topcoat.

    Name:  RogerKoh-email.jpg
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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coach
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 1 Week Ago at 12:25 PM.

  16. #16
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    Perfect, that makes sense. I am pretty sure this is the missing piece to puzzle and this will resolve everything. I will let you know, probably next weekend.

    Thank you so much!

  17. #17
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    Dry Preparation Prior to Topcoat Refinishing - Note:
    Ensure that all deteriorated topcoat is thoroughly sand off with an oscillating sander using sanding grit, 800, 1000 to 1200.
    Then, vacuum off powder residue and wipe with Acidifier-2.0.
    When dry, sticky inspection is done with fingers, otherwise repeat accordingly, prior to topcoat refinishing commencing from Step-2.

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