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Thread: Before and After

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    10

    Default Before and After

    Very excited that the products are working!!! This bag has only undergone the "basic" system of Hydrator 3.3 - Fatliquor - Hydrator 3.3, and it already looks 90% better. See the first picture for before and after. It had a water stain that came right out, some discoloration, cracking healed, and color lightened. I found that I had to repeat the "basic" process 3 times in order to get it the way it is. Mostly because the leather was so severely dehydrated. To help me get the process right, I bought a moisture reader. When I saturated the leather with the Hydrator 3.3 the first time, I covered in plastic wrap for 48 hours. I found that at this time, the moisture reader read 24%. I know it shouldn't drop below 25% moisture in order to Fatliquor properly, so I quickly started the Fatliquor process. (the first time I did this without the reader, I believe the moisture level got way lower and that is why the Fatliquor did not get absorbed as well) I had some issues in determining how many times to repeat the Fatliquor process before moving to the Hydrator 3.3 once again. I had to go with my gut and ended up repeating the process on just the Fatliquor step 3 times. I would apply the Fatliquor until saturated and then allow to air dry until slightly moist but not fully dry, then I would check to see if the leather easily absorbed more of the Fatliquor if I sprayed it on the surface. The third time repeating this step, it seemed like the Fatliquor sat longer on the leather, therefore I felt it was time to move on. Then I saturated the leather with the Hydrator 3.3 again, using the horse hair brush to evenly apply, then I cut strips of the Towels from the Leather Doctor system (very important to use these towels in order for the process to work), and as I place each strip of towel on the vachetta leather, I sprayed the top of the towel and brushed over it with the horse hair brush to make it firmly stay in place. Then I let the bag sit for about 12-16 hours or until the paper towel was dry and falling off. When the towel fell off, it had a residue of an orange like color from wicking off the contaminants from the leather. I was left with the beautiful leather you can see in the second picture. Hope this helps others to understand the process better.

    My question is what to do next? I was handling the bag a bit massaging the leather to lighten it up further and I got nervous that it wasn't protected and the oil from my hands could darken it yet again, so I sprayed the leather with the Protector B+. Then the next day, I realized there were still issues I wanted to address. There were still some scale like texture with brown spotting in spots and the handle still had more cracking. I was not sure if it was ok to do another process directly after applying the Protector or if I had to go back to the basic system of Hydrator - Fatliquor - Hydrator. I decided to move on. I now applied the Vachetta 2.8 to the entire surface of the leather in order to even out the appearance. I then repeated the process of layering the towels on top of the leather after applying the Vachetta 2.8 to the leather. I sprayed the Vachetta 2.8 on top of the towels as well and used the horse hair brush on top of the wet towels to adhere it to the leather in order to wick away as it dried. I'm currently in the middle of this process. Did I pick the wrong thing to do next? Should I have considered repairing the cracks with the Impregnator- 26 and Bond -7A first before using the Vachetta 2.8? Please confirm or correct as it will help me in the future. In fact a lot of my bags have cracks that need repairing and I am not sure at what point I should address the repair. I also don't understand what product specifically to purchase to color correct after doing a repair to the cracks with the Impregnator- 26 and Bond -7A.

    Thank you once again for all your assistance!!!!

    Sincerely,

    Gwen




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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,596

    Default

    Here is the recommended combination of sequence for this leather condition.

    1- VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system
    This system with a very low pH value (pH 1.2 & 2.0) rectifies the browning from alkaline exposure (liquid that has a pH value above 7 will cause browning discoloration). Besides, it charges the protein leather fiber ionic positive (+ve), so that it hydrogen bonds with the ionic negative (-ve) Fatliquor-5.0 (fat and oil). Fatliquor-5.0 is what being used originally and it is a charging fat and oil, unlike most other conditioner, which merely stuff into the leather that cause a darkening effect and clog up the breathing pores negatively. Unless there are other issues like body oil, grease and sweat that would need Degreaser-2.2 and it then is inserted prior to VachettaPro-1.2 as an extended cleaning system (Degreaser-2.2 > VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0). If mold is part of the issue, then KillMold-3.6 is inserted after Acidifier-2.0 in this combination (Degreaser-2.2 > VachettaPro-1.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > KillMold-3.6) and so forth.

    2- Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system
    This is a continuous “wet process” from the base of average 25% total moisture content follows immediately after Acidifier-2.0 soil extraction process. This is the end of the “wet process”.

    3- Vachetta-2.8 system
    Begins the “dry process”, simply wet the leather out again evenly with horsehair detailing Brush-1 and let it naturally dry to inspect for appearance satisfaction.

    Next is optional Repair. Repair with Impregnator-26 and Bond-3D/7A will impart a darkening effect, Another option is coloring to hide the repairs. Pigment coloring is used and it is stable against UV light, unlike the naked Vachetta that develop a suntan just like out skin. So any spot dyeing will eventually shows up. Unless the entire leather trim is recolor at the same time. One down side is the lost of it natural look, or no more authentic that need a reconsidering of a repair. Thus my advocate of vachetta cleaning and restoration is the prevention of cracking with sufficient Fatliquor-5.0 fat and oil content.

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    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,596

    Default

    >>> I also need clarification, if I do a repair by using the Impregnator and then the Adhesor-73, does this mean I've changed the vachetta

    Once Vachetta (naked unfinished) leather is repair with product such as Impregnator-26 to increase strength and stability, and Adhesor-73 to smooth the abraded surface it will impart the undesirable darken effect apparently. Thus the Vachetta is no more Vachetta that remains naked and unfinished.


    >>> and will have to use a pigment versus a dye?

    Vachetta-84 is a pigment dyestuff that forms a dis-continuous film (this means that this pigment is in a binder that allows the leather to breathe, thus will not hinder future rejuvenating with the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. This color is the lightest or new like appearance. To custom match coloring, we are still developing with an Aniline dyestuff call Vachetta-76 that will become a hybrid coloring to come nearest to the naked leather.


    >>> Once you tell me which way I am going, the pigment, or the dye, then can you tell me which one to use.

    Currently we only have one color pigment Vachetta-84, which is match to the lightest new color before the Vachetta develops suntan. To varied the color intensity we are developing an aniline dyestuff Vachetta-76 that could be blend into a hybrid to increase its color intensity into an “translucent” effect closer the look of Vachetta.


    >>> There are a lot of options under each in your products list.

    Check out with the latest Vachetta Leather Problem Solving Matrix, these products are selected from our product line to narrow down the search for the appropriate products suitable for Vachetta.


    >>> 2) I am planning on using the AnilineTop-21W as the last step in restoring the vachetta.
    You may try it out if you like AnilineTop-21W, however we recommend VachettaTop-84 instead, used for sealing with a dis-continuous film that allows breathability.


    >>> Normally, the last step would be to apply the Protector B.


    When a coloring system is used to hide some repairs Protector-B is then used and treated as finished pigmented Vachetta leather.


    >>> Instead I would like to use the Aniline Top 21-W. Does this mean that after I apply the Aniline Top-21 that I would finish with the Protector W?

    Protector-D is a heavier wax that can conceal (scuffing) much better then Protector-W.

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