Results 1 to 46 of 46

Thread: Chanel Boy calfskin has folding marks

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default Chanel Boy calfskin has folding marks

    Hello there,

    I recently acquired an used Chanel Boy bag old medium in calfskin and as I was using it I noticed some crease/indent on the bag where the flap folds and open. Is there a way to make that crease go away?
    Last edited by Elle; 01-06-2018 at 04:04 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> I noticed some crease/indent on the bag where the flap folds and open. Is there a way to make that crease go away?

    The creases develop as the leather is dried of its fatliquor (ionic negative charged fat and oil), becomes stiff and the interlocking fibrils that acts like millions of hinges fails to flex over one another smoothly. The rows that over works stress out becomes weaker while the surrounding remains stiff that result in the creases and indents. Further working on these creases will develop into tears or cracks. Imagine a bundle of rubber bands that have different tension and different dimension. The task is to balance up or equalize this bundle of rubber bands to that they work equally and sharing the same load. When this is achieved, creases and indents will be reduced. Note that soft leathers have the abilities to stretched up to 60% without breaking when well lubricated with fatliquor, cases of creases and indents develops with unequal percentage of stretched is the problem.

    The solution is to rejuvenate the leather structure by replenishing its fat and oil with Fatliquor-5.0 to its original average 14% of fat and oil content when dry. But first the overstretch fibrils need to be relaxed to return to its original pre-stretched condition with the help of Hydrator-3.3. However, accumulated soiling will need first to be removed with Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system. If topcoat (AnilineTop-76) refinishing is desired to restore its gloss then the leather should be free of body oil, grease and sweat, otherwise the topcoat may not adhere evenly, thus patchy appearance due to poor topcoat adhesion. Protector-B/B+ is the final application to impart a buttery-feel that also reduces wears to the finishing.

    So a holistic approach to restore to a decent level would involve these sequences of steps . . .

    Step 1 - Degreasing to remove body oil, grease and sweat with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.
    Step 2 - Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 to relax and stretch out the creases / indents and reactivate dormant dyestuff to refresh fading.
    Step 3 - Replenishing or top-up with Fatliquor-5.0 to the original average of 14% fat and oil content when dry.
    Step 4 - Top coating refinishing with AnilineTop-76G to restore original gloss.
    Step 5 - Rub-resistant, buttery-feel to reduce wear with Protector-B/B+

    Any questions you may have?

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 12-28-2017 at 11:57 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Would the steps be the same if I do it on my beige Chanel that has previously been dyed? Actually what would be the additional steps if I wanted to dye my beige calfskin Chanel another color at the same time as restoring the creases.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Would the steps be the same if I do it on my beige Chanel that has previously been dyed?

    The sequence of steps would be the same regardless of color.


    >>> Actually what would be the additional steps if I wanted to dye my beige calfskin Chanel another color at the same time as restoring the creases.


    Redyeing is performed in Step-3A before AnilineTop-76G with Aniline-76 (these are the transparent coating dye system for the black bag).
    If you wish to block off the base beige to another color, an opaque micro-pigment coloring system with Micro-54 > MicroTop-54S/G or Napa-84 > NapaTop-84G system (lacquer emulsion that forms discontinuous film that allows leather to breathe better and easier application without the need to airbrushing) is recommended.
    Good to see pictures to properly identify its finishes to produce best result.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Name:  D0120EC4-D86E-4860-A462-5670AB993872.jpeg
Views: 77
Size:  3.47 MBName:  D94BA5E5-A2F1-401E-9170-FE7BD57FBF4F.jpeg
Views: 76
Size:  2.98 MB

    Here’s pictures of the beige one. It has been redyed to cover some blue stains

    Is there a kit you would recommend?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Here’s picture of the beige one.
    What color does you intent to re-color?

    >>> It has been redyed to cover some blue stains
    Recommend that you need to removed or stripped the entire finishes with Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 system replacing Step-1 mentioned above. The closest to the original base or crust color the less coloring products you would need.

    >>> Is there a kit you would recommend?
    You may need a custom package and maybe with a Pearlescent or Metallic Gold secondary coloring for extra beauty may interest you.
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/pearl-97/

    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/metallic-98/

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Im looking into dyeing it a much darker color (burgundy or black) so i can keep using the bag for a long time and keeping it a matte color to hide the condition of the leather.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    Since you already have a “black” above a burgundy or antique-brown with Aniline-76 system would be closed to Chanel original lambskin finishes. The need to removed its existing finished would be mandatory, otherwise it still may show through. Recommend that first the existing finishes be removed before deciding which color system best blend in. If you like this idea then, we can discuss how best to do it.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Yeah that would be a good start. Can u recommend me the products to buy and steps please

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    See some tips here
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline-76/

    Basic you need:

    1- Strip existing finishes with Stripper-2.3
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/stripper-2-3/

    1A - Using StrippingBrush-9
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/strippingbrush-9/

    1B - with LeatherEraser-4
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/leathereraser-4/

    1C - with Sand-2000
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/sand-2000/

    Control dried leathers from stiffness and cracking:

    2- Hydrator-3.3
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/

    3- Fatliquor-5.0
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Step 1 - Degreasing to remove body oil, grease and sweat with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.

    Do I still need the degreaser 2.2 and acidifier 2.0?

    Step 2 - Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 to relax and stretch out the creases / indents and reactivate dormant dyestuff to refresh fading.
    Step 3 - Replenishing or top-up with Fatliquor-5.0 to the original average of 14% fat and oil content when dry.

    Step 4 - Top coating refinishing with AnilineTop-76G to restore original gloss.
    Do I still finish with the aniline Top -76G? Is that the color? If I wanted a burgundy color which color should I be gettting?

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Step 1 - Degreasing to remove body oil, grease and sweat with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system. Do I still need the degreaser 2.2 and acidifier 2.0?

    Step-1 - Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 system may also remove the body oil, grease and sweat to satisfaction, otherwise continue with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system as Step-1A


    >>> Step-2 - Hydrating with Hydrator-3.3 to relax and stretch out the creases / indents and reactivate dormant dyestuff to refresh fading.


    (This is talking about your Chanel black lambskin Aniline finishes that is subject to fading. Unlike pigmented finishes like the beige one, which is not subject to fading). Hydrator-3.3 has many functions and you may benefits from it accordingly.


    Step-3 - Replenishing or top-up with Fatliquor-5.0 to the original average of 14% fat and oil content when dry.


    >>> Step 4 - Top coating refinishing with AnilineTop-76G to restore original gloss.


    AnilineTop-76G comes after Aniline-76.


    >>> Do I still finish with the AnilineTop-76G? Is that the color?

    Aniline-76 is the Dyestuff (transparent like varnish vs paint on wood).
    Color in leather is always refers to “Pigment” like Napa-84 or Micro-54 system.


    >>> If I wanted a burgundy color which color should I be gettting?

    Burgundy derives from “Pigmented” (opaque) coloring either Napa-84 or Micro-54 system. It is a mix of maroon and black see Color Shading Examples: http://www.leatherdoctor.com/color-matching-service/

    Note:
    If you do not have the time to do, I can do it for you!
    We are the service provider for:
    Chanel-Vancouver
    737 Dunsmuir St,
    Vancouver. BC V7Y1E4
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-04-2018 at 11:25 AM.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    I'm actually kind of excited to try and refresh this bag myself.

    So glad that you are helping me out on this project.

    I just put in an order for the basic you mentioned. As recommended, i'll strip the color first then we can decide on which color system to use and color to dye. Please review my order and let me know if i am missing something.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Please review my order and let me know if i am missing something.

    I believe you would use the Stripper-2.3 more then the other products and the 120ml size will soon run out. Recommend that you standby a quart refill to continue rather then waiting for supply to arrive, same as for the other 3 products. Note: In a "wet process" the leather is recommended to keep damp or wet (about 25%) and ends with sufficient Fatliquor-5.0 (up to 14% when dry) before a slow dry and finally massage to dry to avoid or prevent existing micro-crazing or cracks to magnified or look worse. Caution! The unnatural creases or wrinkles are potential cracking areas - which is already too dry of fatliquor (that is not sufficient fatliquor the main reason).

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    i cant seem to be able to find my order in my account on theleatherdoctor.com , would it be possible to cancel my order so i can put in another one? If i understand correctly, my shopping cart should include the Stripper-2.3, Hydrator-3.3, Fatliquor-5.0 and Rinse-3.0 all in Quart size?

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    Yes, order cancelled and refunded!

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi Roger!

    I finally got myself to start on the handbag! Watching the color being removed is pretty amazing.

    I just finished with the stripper 2.3. Now do i start right away and continue with Rinse 3.0 while the leather is still wet? Or should i let it dry first before continuing?

    Also, after Rinse 3.0 Do i continue with Hydrator 3.3 while it is still wet? Or wait to dry?

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    Please show pictures of your working progress - for correction when necessary.

    From Stripper-2.3 > Rinse-3.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 allow 25% moisture retention, that is these stages are consider the "wet operation" and only allow to be dry after Fatliquor-5.0. Allow slow natural drying after Fatliquor-5.0 for extra leather suppleness when dry.

    Roger Koh
    Leather & Acne Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Oh.. the bag is already dried from the stripper 2.3 process..

    Should i start over again with stripper 2.3 or continue with rinse 3.0?

    There's still some color left from the painted beige and I think I'd need to get Bond to fix some leather part.

    Heres how it looks like after stripper 2.3
    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Last edited by Elle; 02-06-2018 at 04:15 PM.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    Thanks!

    Post higher resolution pictures like those before - to give you some tips if any.

    Where is the part that you need Bond-3D?

    Need to consider what finishes you intent as you can combine with the dyestuff to blend in seamlessly.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> There's still some color left from the painted beige

    If possible remove them all entirely.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    #1
    Name:  27907060_10160214813110529_948874330_o.jpg
Views: 56
Size:  268.7 KB
    #2
    Name:  27786213_10160214813065529_684737958_o.jpg
Views: 60
Size:  365.8 KB

    I circled in red the leather part that might need bond. That part of the leather is not as smooth as the rest and theres some residue peeling. Almost like it was brushed against something.

    Ideally i would like to use an Aniline dye because i dont want a painted look. I would like to have a burgundy one but if its not possible by using aniline dye i would definitely consider making it black.
    Also because it is a transparent dye would you recommend it given the non consistent color of the bag? Any suggestion?

    Do you have a color sample for the 9 colors of Aniline 76?

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Ideally i would like to use an Aniline dye because i dont want a painted look. I would like to have a burgundy one but if its not possible by using aniline dye i would definitely consider making it black. Also because it is a transparent dye would you recommend it given the non consistent color of the bag? Any suggestion?

    Any darkening spots or areas have to be reduced, so that it will not show through. Color choices has to be able to camouflage or better still darker then the existing color spots. Thus burgundy might not be a good choice, alternatively is to used “Antique-Brown” which is a combination of Dark-Brown + Red-Brown + Orange or either Dark-Brown alone or Red-Brown alone. In choice of saturation is Black greater then Dark-Brown, and Antique-Brown greater then Red-Brown.

    Remember that color density or saturation increase with layers of application.


    >>> Do you have a color sample for the 9 colors of Aniline 76?

    I will need to take a picture then!

    Meanwhile, show me some colors of bag that you like and I will assist you further!

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    The bag is currently wrapped in plastic with Hydrator 3.3.

    I'm having a hard time stripping all the beige color. As you can see on the pictures above, most of it has been stripped but there's still some left.
    Should I continue stripping the leather after Hydrator or just continue with fatliquor?

    I wont need the bond anymore since i sanded the leather and its smooth now.

    Here's some pictures of the burgundy color i'd like to achieve.
    Name:  CCBUR.jpg
Views: 57
Size:  195.1 KBName:  CCBUR2.jpg
Views: 49
Size:  68.7 KB

    I was wondering if it was easy to achieve a uniform color if the bag has some darkened spot.
    Since i am pretty new at this i wonder if it'll be easier and simpler to dye it black and be sure that the color will be uniform.

    Also, i wanna thank you for guiding me through this project! I have learnt so much from reading your forum and i cant wait to see the end results!

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> I'm having a hard time stripping all the beige color. As you can see on the pictures above, most of it has been stripped but there's still some left. Should I continue stripping the leather after Hydrator or just continue with fatliquor?

    You can continue to strip after Hydrator-3.3 and after Fatliquor-5.0, just make sure to continue after Stripper-2.3 and Rine-3.0 (optional) with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 again.
    If you see the last red circle picture the vertical stitching row has lost strength, where the needle holes becomes elongated, instead of a perfect round. Elongated needle holes are signs that the leather is too dry of Fatliquor-5.0 (so you know).


    >>> I wont need the bond anymore since i sanded the leather and its smooth now.

    Careful about sanding leather - the more it is sanded the rougher or coarser it becomes. Sanding of roughness is best performed when the finishing is applied progressively to achieve a smooth surface without sacrifice the precious fibers.


    >>> Here's some pictures of the burgundy color i'd like to achieve. I was wondering if it was easy to achieve a uniform color if the bag has some darkened spot. Since i am pretty new at this i wonder if it'll be easier and simpler to dye it black and be sure that the color will be uniform.

    Burgundy is a secondary color created from a ratio mix of maroon and black, Thus continue to add black until it is dark enough to hide the darkest spot. A test on a white cardboard and then match close to the darkened spot will give an indication of the need to saturate further with black.


    >>> Also, i wanna thank you for guiding me through this project! I have learnt so much from reading your forum and i cant wait to see the end results!

    I hope you can share some of these tips to your friends - not to fear when comes to the care of leather. If you are happy with the leather product so far, you will be happier with my Acne Care System as well - Acne8, Acne2, Acne+ and AcneX for a acne free skin I used it daily myself.

  26. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Did you find a swatch of the maroon color? I’d like to see a sample first.

    I’m about to order the products needed to finish the bag.
    As I understand I will need the aniline 76 dye. would 60ml suffice to dye the bag?
    Next aniline 76 top coat satin or gloss. Which size should I order? (Since the leather is not perfect satin would hide imperfection better?)
    Next protector B. For a natural touch.

    What kind of tools should I use for the best natural finish?

  27. #27
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Did you find a swatch of the maroon color? I’d like to see a sample first.

    Maroon an opaque coloring is a color available as Micro-54 from this link -
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/micro-54/

    You may intermixed with Black of Aniline-76 a transparent dyestuff into a translucent color that just enough color intensity to camouflage any darkening effect from -
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/aniline-76/

    To save you the inconvenience of mixing you may opt out for a "translucent" burgundy from -
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/2tone-37/

    or

    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/antique-27/

  28. #28
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Haha i am now really confused about the options that i have.
    I looked into the maroon color and i dont like it. It's too brown.

    I might like the burgundy of Antique-27.

    But with so many options, i really want to make an informed choice, whats the difference between Aniline-76 and Antique-27?

    I see that Antique 27 would require the use of Impregnator - 73. Why?
    would the color intensity increase with additional coating like Aniline 76?
    Can Antique - 27 be applied without an airbrush?

    If I dyed the bag Black. Which is available in both Antique 27 and Aniline 76 which dyestuff would you recommend?

    Im sorry for having so many questions

  29. #29
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> What’s the difference between Aniline-76 and Antique-27?

    Aniline-76 is “transparent” dyestuff.
    Antique-27 is “translucent” hybrid coloring.


    >>> I see that Antique 27 would require the use of Impregnator - 73. Why?

    This bag will not need the use of Impregnator-26. It is for strengthening and tightening leather structure weakness.
    You may need Adhesor-73 instead if you are using Antique-27 as the base color.


    >>> would the color intensity increase with additional coating like Aniline 76?

    Yes! About 50% as compared to Aniline-76.


    >>> Can Antique - 27 be applied without an airbrush?

    Airbrushing produces better result then brushing (brushing will need very fine varnishing brushes to avoid streaks and uneven coating). Dark coloring becomes less noticeable, light and medium range coloring can show difference quite clearly.


    >>> If I dyed the bag Black. Which is available in both Antique 27 and Aniline 76 which dyestuff would you recommend?

    Aniline-76 has a deeper beauty of depth thus enhances the crust beauty as well.
    However, if the crust is not as beautiful or even in color, Antique-27 has better coverage or hiding properties due to about 50% is “opaque” pigment.

    Tips:
    If you are adventurous and like a shade of Burgundy, you may use Antique-27 (Burgundy) as a base color to even out the difference. Then follows with Aniline-76 (Black) to saturate it to your liking. And if you do not like it - strip it off before you apply the topcoat.

  30. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    About the airbrush.
    What should I look for in an airbrush?
    This will also be my first time using an airbrush. Does it matter weather it is an internal or external mix?

    I saw another post mentioning I’d need a psi of 80-100. That means i would need an air compressor for nails and heavier duty work right?

    Can airbrushes but used with any air compressor ? or the airbrush has a maximal PSI that it can handle?

    Is it normal that my hydrater has this floating inside?
    Name:  70722970-49B9-4519-ACE4-F84CDD730186.jpeg
Views: 50
Size:  3.41 MB
    Last edited by Elle; 02-16-2018 at 07:16 PM.

  31. #31
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> About the airbrush. What should I look for in an airbrush? This will also be my first time using an airbrush. Does it matter weather it is an internal or external mix?

    Among all the small airbrushes I prefer to used the Paasche double action airbrush as you may see a picture here:
    http://www.artistcraftsman.com/media...rbrush-set.jpg
    A bit of practice using water on paper boxes will soon gain you confident.


    >>> I saw another post mentioning I’d need a psi of 80-100. That means i would need an air compressor for nails and heavier duty work right?


    Get a small tank, or the smallest available with a pressure range up to 120psi (the higher the air pressure the finer the spray will be).


    >>> Can airbrushes but used with any air compressor ? or the airbrush has a maximal PSI that it can handle?

    I used the paasche double action using a big compressor or a small compressor equally well, there should be a guage to denotes its working pressure.


    >>> Is it normal that my hydrater has this floating inside?


    Yes, quite normal, if you wish to filter out use a coffee paper filter.


    Roger Koh
    Leather, Skin & Hair Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  32. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    I am ready for my next step!
    After muchhh thoughts about the color, I’d like to go with the antique 27 since I couldn’t strip off the old paint completely I feel like a 50% opaque color would be a better choice.

    So I would need the adhesor and the antique 27. Which size should I get? And is there anything else I’d be needing? I’ll be applying the color with an airbrush.

  33. #33
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> So I would need the adhesor and the antique 27

    In this system Adhesor-73 > Antique-27 > AnilineTop-76G > Protector-B/B+.

    Which size should I get?
    In 250ml.

    >>> And is there anything else I’d be needing?

    You need to list out your products and tools find if you lack something.


    >>> I’ll be applying the color with an airbrush.

    What airbrush are you using and have you done some practice?

  34. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    I bought a Paasche VLseries kit. Haven't practice with it yet. Still learning about which needle and tips to use.. the kit came with couple of options ... But will definitely pratice before i paint the bag.

    I bought some masking tape to tape the hardware of the handbag.
    Is there anyway to remove the paint if some ends up on the hardware?

    How should i proceed while painting with the airbrush?
    Should i airbrush one panel at a time and tape off all the other side? Not sure if i should put tape on the leather...
    Or it doesn't really matter?

    Also, any tips and tricks to airbrush the contour? Since it is raised a lot higher than the middle which is a flatter surface. Not sure if the airbrush can get the colors into the lines.

  35. #35
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Is there anyway to remove the paint if some ends up on the hardware?

    Use Stripper-2.3


    >>> How should i proceed while painting with the airbrush? Should i airbrush one panel at a time and tape off all the other side? Not sure if i should put tape on the leather... Or it doesn't really matter? Also, any tips and tricks to airbrush the contour? Since it is raised a lot higher than the middle which is a flatter surface. Not sure if the airbrush can get the colors into the lines.

    Just practice with water on boxes and bubble pack to get a feel, it comes naturally how you should proceed as you are familiar with airbrushing - there is no rules - however make sure you have 80 to 100psi to have fine spray to have better result and make sure it does not drip. Note water may drips easily because of viscosity, Antique-27 is heavier thus drips is less - need to practice with Antique-27 thereafter prior to actual spraying. Meanwhile make sure that you are satisfied with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Another inspection is surface tension prior to finishes application with Surfactant-3.6. Ensure that the entire leather surface absorbed evenly prior to finishes application.

  36. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi Roger,

    I ordered the dyestuff for my next step. But ordered the wrong Topcoat. Can you please do the exchange. I also sent you a message from my account at leatherdoctor.com

    While waiting for my new order to come in, I used stripper a second time after my first time doing Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Now, it is wrapped up in plastic for another 72H of dwelling. (what is the maximum time i can leave it in the plastic wrap?)
    Then i will proceed to Fatliquor and Hydrator again.

  37. #37
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> Now, it is wrapped up in plastic for another 72H of dwelling.

    Tips:
    It is not to be place away for 72 hours dwell and forget until the time is up.
    Periodic inspection is to ensure that the moisture level is maintained.


    >>> (what is the maximum time i can leave it in the plastic wrap?)
    With constant periodic inspection you may leave it 72 hours x 3 or up to six months (however, daily inspection is a MUST).

  38. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Name:  35058091-0E58-47AE-BAED-ED91B9ADF06C.jpeg
Views: 46
Size:  4.51 MB
    I checked after 24h and there’s these spot on the leather.
    What do I do???
    Last edited by Elle; 03-11-2018 at 02:07 PM.

  39. #39
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    These are mold.

    Use Hydrator-3.3, horsehair Brush-1, Eraser-4 and cotton terry towel to clean them off.

    Expose to sunlight and air circulation with humidity below 55% helps retards mold infestation.

    Treatment after visual cleaning with KillMold-3.6 will control growth.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-28-2018 at 07:53 PM.

  40. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Hi Roger,

    I received my packaged and ready to proceed.

    is killmold 3.6 used in a wet process?

    Are my steps right?

    Step 1)
    Hydrator 3.3* > Rinse 3.0 > KillMold 3.6 > let dry
    or
    Hydrator 3.3 > Rinse 3.0 > let dry > KillMold 3.6 > let dry

    Step 1.1)
    Clean alcantara > Rinse Alcantara > KillMold > let dry
    or
    Clean alcantara > Rinse Alcantara > let dry > KillMold > let dry

    Step 2)
    Hydrator 3.3 > Fatliquor > Hydrator 3.3 > Let Dry
    Can i cling wrap it again? Scared it might develop more mold

    Step 3)
    Adhesor - 73 > Let dry

    What is the best way to apply? Pad with the sponge brush? or Spray and wipe with a towel? Do I apply one coat or until satisfactory?

    Then sand in between coat if necessary.

    And Roger.. i wasn't sure about my color choice, but i tested the color on a piece of paper. And i LOVE the color!!
    Will post a picture of it next time. For future referral for other people.!

  41. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> is killmold 3.6 used in a wet process?

    KillMold-3.6 is used either in a wet or dry process, it depends on whether a restorative or preventive process. anyway the surface has to be clean first. In most cases it is a wet process in a combination of cleaning steps from the http://www.leatherdoctor.com/killmold-3-6/


    >>> Are my steps right?
    Step 1)
    Hydrator 3.3* > Rinse 3.0 > KillMold 3.6 > let dry
    or
    Hydrator 3.3 > Rinse 3.0 > let dry > KillMold 3.6 > let dry


    Rinse-3.0 can be skip after Hydrator-3.3 (Hydrator-3.3 has many functions and rinsing is one of them, example after Fatliquor-5.0, Hydrator-3.3 is use as “rinse”.


    >>> Step 1.1)
    Clean alcantara > Rinse Alcantara > KillMold > let dry
    or
    Clean alcantara > Rinse Alcantara > let dry > KillMold > let dry


    This system is for fabric so there is no difference, however strength may be compromise when apply on wet.


    >>> Step 2) Hydrator 3.3 > Fatliquor > Hydrator 3.3 > Let Dry. Can i cling wrap it again? Scared it might develop more mold

    Apply KillMold-3.6 after Hydrator-3.3 in this sequence
    Hydrator-3.3 > KillMold-3.6 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 (rinse off surface Fatliquor-5.0) > Let Dry


    >>> Step 3)
    Adhesor-73 > Let dry. What is the best way to apply? Pad with the sponge brush? or Spray and wipe with a towel? Do I apply one coat or until satisfactory.


    The use of Adhesor-73 in this project is to smooth out the worn surface roughness.
    I would suggest that the Adhesor-73 is tint or colored with the Antique-27 to minimize appearance.
    Application is optional, however surface excess is wipe off to prevent unnecessary buildup.
    Then sand in between coat if necessary.
    In a heavy repair of any flaps or leather sticking out of roughness Bond-3D is used instead (a little color is added to improve appearance as well and Bond-7A is used to smooth the repairs instead of sandpaper. (It is impossible to sand off Bond-3D repairs that is while Bond-7A is used to soften the Bond-3D to work to restore.


    >>> And Roger.. i wasn't sure about my color choice, but i tested the color on a piece of paper. And i LOVE the color!!
    Will post a picture of it next time. For future referral for other people.!


    Remember, that this is a “translucent” hybrid dyestuff and color intensity will depends on layers, thus a very light spray will produce a lighter shade and more layers builds up the color intensity as well.

    Practice on a piece of scrap for repairs and refinishing prior to actual application, recommended for first time user.

  42. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    How much color should I add to the adhesor-73? 10%?
    Also there’s a part that is wrinkled when I open the flap. I read on another post that I could iron it with parchemin paper?
    Can I do that on my bag?
    Name:  865EAB9B-8521-4AB8-981F-B59119D5D89C.jpeg
Views: 34
Size:  2.84 MB

  43. #43
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> How much color should I add to the adhesor-73? 10%?

    Test it out on a cardboard of a similar color.
    You would then have to airbrush to blend in, Simpler if the desired color is the darkest side, otherwise this repair may show when the final color is on the medium range.


    >>> Also there’s a part that is wrinkled when I open the flap. I read on another post that I could iron it with parchemin paper? Can I do that on my bag?


    Make sure you have enough fatliquor - otherwise it will shrink worse.

  44. #44
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default


    >>> I read on another post that I could iron it with parchemin paper?


    Where did you read that mention about "parchemin paper"? - show me the link?

    What fancy paper is that?

    Use a white absorbent print paper - it has to be absorbent or pervious or porous that allow water vapour to go through, otherwise you trap the vapour that turns into steam that will cook the leather for dinner.

  45. #45
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Posts
    23

    Default

    Test it out on a cardboard of a similar color.
    You would then have to airbrush to blend in, Simpler if the desired color is the darkest side, otherwise this repair may show when the final color is on the medium range.


    Im not sure i understand, do i apply the mix of adhesor-73 + antique-27 by airbrush? then once its dry, i airbrush antique-27
    or
    do i apply the mix of adhesor-73 + antique-27 by any means then wipe off excess then once its dry, i airbrush antique-27

    I will be aiming for a pretty dark color because the black spot on the strap is pretty dark so it will need to be covered up.

    Where did you read that mention about "parchemin paper"? - show me the link?


    Haha i am sorry, i got mixed up. You mentionned wax paper here : http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ighlight=bally


    What fancy paper is that?
    Usually I use parchment paper or wax paper when baking. But the biggest difference is Parchment paper is coated with silicone to give it a nonstick, heat-resistant surface, and waxed paper is coated with a soybean or paraffin wax.

    Use a white absorbent print paper - it has to be absorbent or pervious or porous that allow water vapour to go through, otherwise you trap the vapour that turns into steam that will cook the leather for dinner.

    Haha okay then. I will use a white print paper then. On wool setting.

  46. #46
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,501

    Default

    >>> do i apply the mix of adhesor-73 + antique-27 by any means then wipe off excess then once its dry, i airbrush antique-27.

    A mix of Adhesor-73 + Antique-27 is for a coloring surface repairs, any flaps or stick out of loose fibers may require a heavier repair with Bond-3D + Antique-27 (Bond-7A in place of sanding). To feel a smooth repairs, use finger tips as a tool, works best for me (naked preferred to gloved).


    >>> Haha i am sorry, i got mixed up. You mentionned wax paper here : http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ighlight=bally[/B]

    Always find the latest tips, that was 16-April-2015, we are now 15-March-2018, it's almost three years and I have constantly improved my techniques from observation.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •