Results 1 to 9 of 9

Thread: Zebra Hide Repairs!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    516

    Default Zebra Hide Repairs!

    Hello Roger,

    I have a zebra rug in very very poor condition and am in the process of hydrating it prior to fatliquoring. I am wondering how I guage or can calculate how much fatliquor it will require as I found when hydrating it it was so dry that it needed more than 3 bottles of hydrator applied? Can you tell by squeezing the leather once the fatliquor is applied as I cannot weigh the hide to do the calculations you have written out.

    Also there are some very badly damaged areas with degraded hide and holes would it be best to use the Stucco in combination with the suede patches on these areas? I am about to order 14 odd patches to repair the damage once I have fatliquored it...would it be better to buy a larger sheet of suede from you to cut patches myself?

    Unfortunately the hide has been stored very badly and should have been treated ages ago. I cannot seem to log in to the forum although I did register initially...it doesn't like my password anymore?! Kind regards,


    Hi Roger,

    Many thanks for your email. I have thoroughly read through everything now. My zebra is currently under plastic at my workplace warehouse saturated with hydrator. I will re visit Monday as it was hydrated Friday afternoon.

    It has many badly damaged areas which have completely deteriorated (undiscovered pet soiling I suspect). It also has multiple tears. I will attempt to dab the stains clean before fatliquoring.

    Re Fatliquoring, whilst still damp but no longer wet I should begin application of the fat liquor....Do I apply with the foam spatula as evenly as possible and let it sit for how long before the next coat? How many bottles would you see me needing? I purchased the concentrated kit for shipping purposes.

    I will send you some images on Monday but fear you will put your hand to your forehead when you see it!!!

    It is worth a try and I am sure I will restore it to at least a happier than current state no matter what. Thank goodness for you as I had no assistance from anyone locally. Kind regards,


    Hi Roger,

    As promised some images of my poor zebra!! Some completely disintegrated areas.... I have done first fatliquor today and will reapply heated formula tomorrow. Any advice how to do repairs to worst areas would be much appreciated. Kind regards,


    #1
    Name:  IMG_20170925_161747.jpg
Views: 15
Size:  3.16 MB


    #2
    Name:  IMG_20170925_161754.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  3.46 MB


    #3
    Name:  IMG_20170925_161813.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  2.90 MB


    #4
    Name:  IMG_20170925_161841.jpg
Views: 14
Size:  2.91 MB


    #5
    Name:  IMG_20170925_161848.jpg
Views: 13
Size:  2.98 MB
    Last edited by Questions!; 09-25-2017 at 12:16 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    >>> I am wondering how I guage or can calculate how much fatliquor it will require as I found when hydrating it
    Soak it up and as long as the product stays without dripping or running is the optimum level of hydrating or fatliquoring.


    >>> Can you tell by squeezing the leather once the fatliquor is applied as I cannot weigh the hide to do the calculations you have written out.

    Yes we can tell by pressing the hide with our fingers, moisture should be oozing out.


    >>> Also there are some very badly damaged areas with degraded hide and holes would it be best to use the Stucco in combination with the suede patches on these areas?

    Bond-3D would be a stronger product and shredded suede of the same type added produces the best result homogeneously. Stucco-90 is good to easy fill non-stress areas.


    >>> I am about to order 14 odd patches to repair the damage once I have fatliquored it...would it be better to buy a larger sheet of suede from you to cut patches myself?

    There is only 1 size patch (4” x 6”). Typically is to cut a 1” x 6” strip for bonding repairs along joints.


    >>> My zebra is currently under plastic at my workplace warehouse saturated with hydrator. I will re visit Monday as it was hydrated Friday afternoon.


    Need to have in mind regarding mold growth. Example UV light present, moisture saturation level, low humidity and heat. Otherwise use KillMold-3.6.


    >>> It has many badly damaged areas which have completely deteriorated (undiscovered pet soiling I suspect). It also has multiple tears. I will attempt to dab the stains clean before fatliquoring.

    Pet soiling becomes alkaline which dentaure and ultimately rots the hide - products to neutralize includes, CleanUrine-1.5, KillUrine-1.2 and Acidifier-2.0 (product suffix denotes their pH value).


    >>> Re Fatliquoring, whilst still damp but no longer wet I should begin application of the fat liquor....Do I apply with the foam spatula as evenly as possible and let it sit for how long before the next coat?

    Application is either direct spray (wear mist mask to avoid breathing vapor) or with foam brushing. Apply until fully saturation and let it naturally dry. Before fully dry additional application may repeat and the hide is gently massaged or flexed until it dries for extra softness.


    >>> How many bottles would you see me needing? I purchased the concentrated kit for shipping purposes.


    My guess is about 4 quarts of both Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 to give it another lease of life - any left overs would still be need for the next round - fatliquor is the lifeblood of hide.

    >>> I will send you some images on Monday but fear you will put your hand to your forehead when you see it!!! It is worth a try and I am sure I will restore it to at least a happier than current state no matter what. Thank goodness for you as I had no assistance from anyone locally. As promised some images of my poor zebra!! Some completely disintegrated areas.... I have done first fatliquor today and will reapply heated formula tomorrow. Any advice how to do repairs to worst areas would be much appreciated.

    Get the hide, hydrated and supple-up before we talk about repairs.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    Name:  Kit-H7+.JPG
Views: 13
Size:  1.15 MB
    # Kit-H7+

    >>> I have nearly used up the whole fatliquor concentrate bottle...I have one more application for tomorrow. How can I tell if it is sufficient??...

    With a leather moisture meter or equivalent it should read about 15% when completely dry. Without a meter, you may test out the suppleness of the leather with strength when dry.

    >>> I intend to treat any shiny areas with hydrator and then I will let the hide dry out and gently massage it as it does?


    Good practice!


    >>> If I need to do more fatliquoring I am not going to get more product here in time from you before it dries out again. Does that mean I have to do the whole hydration process again before further fatliquoring?


    In this severe situation, it is recommended that you continue the system Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 before you do the repairs.
    Make sure the repairing areas are supple-up before repairs. Any stiff areas are a potential to crack. We shall discuss further about the repairs when the hide is supple-up.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    Hi Roger,

    >>> I have been keeping the zebra damp and applying fatliquor with distilled water the last couple of days...it is pretty sodden and now looking white when I brush the fatliquor solution over it which means to me that it is not sinking in any more....


    Before any application of Fatliquor-5.0, the total existing combination of liquid content has to be reduced to about 25% through slow drying, thus have the capacity to received further Fatliquor-5.0 in a repeated cycle to accumulate a total of about 15% of fat and oil when dry.


    >>> I presume I now need the hydrator to assist the fatliquor to be absorbed??

    By adding further Hydrator-3.3 on a fully saturated hide does not help the Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed. It is allowing the excess liquid to evaporate allowing further Fatliquor-5.0 to be absorbed instead.


    >>> It seems to be more fragile with being so moist should I let it dry out again in view of the fact the hydrator may not arrive until next week?? Should I then just massage the hydrator over the hide before attempting to use more fatliquor?

    Sounds like the hide is sufficiently relaxed, let the liquid content evaporate up to 25% dryness and begin introducing Fatliquor-5.0 once more in a repeated cycle.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    >>> Please send instructions re major repairs of rotted areas and splits with the 3D Bond and suede shaver as once I have used all the fatliquor I have left and it dries out I will have to start repairs.

    Tips:

    1- Stitching repairs may begin during the Fatliquor-5.0 drying process. It is easier to stitch when the leather is soft and strong. It is also a time to test out the strength of the fatliquoring. The hide should hold up the stitch without ripping or tearing, otherwise the hide might not be supple enough.

    2- When stitching is done the option to bond them may be by Bond-3D > Patch-4S. A finer technique is by shaving suede fiber from thicker neck areas as donor and work with Bond-3D. In both methods the stitch is covered up with Bond-3D and donor- suede fiber or Patch-4S.

    3- Caution when using Razor-60. Either wear gloves or have half of the blade heavily tap-up. Hold it at right angle with the hide and moves side ways in a scraping action.


    Further readings:

    Product Description
    Leather Doctor® Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A to smooth without the need of sanding.
    Bond-5C a medium soft acrylic resin when mixed with equal portion with Bond-3D provides a tackier mixed for easier control application with added strength for a stronger bond.

    Tips:
    1 Colors and dyes can be added for aesthetic repairs.
    2 Test for darkening effect when dry, prior to repair.
    3 Use leather Patch-4S as sub-patch to bond.
    4 Use suede fibers for filling repairs for aniline leathers.
    5 Use Stucco-90 for filling repairs for pigmented leathers.
    6 Use leather Bond-7A to smoothen abrasion repairs without the need to sanding.

    Types of Repairs using Bond-3D:
    A. Cut Through Repairs.
    B. New, Fresh and Clean Accident Abrasion Repairs.
    C. Prolonged Contaminated Abrasion & Holes Repairs.
    D. Cat-Scratch Repairs.

    A. Cut Through Repairs.
    A cut through repairs utilize Patch-4S as a sub-patch and this is bonded suede side to suede side.
    1 Where tension causes the leather to open, it is stretch to an overlapping position with some physical help.
    2 Preferably the Patch-4S is bonded to one side first prior to bonding the other side to reduce the overlapping effort.
    3 This is a slow drying product thus a blower may come helpful to speed up the drying process.
    4 The bonding process will require the bond to cure for tension strength, thus holding the rip in position until fully cured is necessary.
    5 Vertical filling gap may be done with added matching coloring for aesthetic.

    B. Fresh and Clean Accident Abrasion Repairs:
    Abrasion in most cases will roughen up the leather structure with missing finishes.
    1 Any soiling is removed with brushing prior to applying Bond-3D to smooth the damages.
    2 Repeat application is necessary to build the smooth skin back gradually.
    3 Bond-7A helps to smooth it without the need of sanding.
    3 Color matching is done accordingly to the finish types.

    C. Prolonged Contaminated Abrasion & Holes Repairs:
    Constant abrasion with repeat compression may loosen and weaken the leather structure compound with loss of fibers or missing parts. Repairs to such neglected damages may take on a holistic approach to restore systematically the damages. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 is recommended to remove surface and penetrated oil and grease soiling in conjunction with Rinse-3.0 to remove foreign contamination. Leather rejuvenating is also recommended to restore the leather softness and strength with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Tightening the leather structure may be necessary to restore over-stretched leather with Impregnator-26. Bonding repair with Bond-3D commence thereafter with smoothening, filling with donor suede fiber especially for aniline leathers or optional Stucco-90 for pigmented leathers. Repair prepares the surface for color refinishing that follows with Adhesor-73, matching coloring and matching topcoat that ends with a rub-resistant protection.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor / Coaching
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    Dear Roger,

    As mentioned some images of the worst areas needing attention.

    #1
    Name:  IMG_20171103_132932.jpg
Views: 4
Size:  3.84 MB


    #2
    Name:  IMG_20171103_132932.jpg
Views: 4
Size:  3.84 MBName:  IMG_20171103_132939.jpg
Views: 4
Size:  3.86 MB


    #3
    Name:  IMG_20171103_132939.jpg
Views: 4
Size:  3.86 MBName:  IMG_20171103_132939.jpg
Views: 4
Size:  3.86 MB


    #4
    Name:  IMG_20171103_132954.jpg
Views: 4
Size:  3.96 MB

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    >>> how you apply the 3D ie how thick, how long for one side to dry how to get 2 sides to hold etc etc some images would help... I have completed the fatliquoring today and am allowing the hide to dry out again before I start the 3D process.

    D. Hair-on hide Rip Repairs:
    Rip is the result of diminishes fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil) from ageing or alkaline overexposure. The structure need to be clean, pH balanced and fatliquor replenished up to 15% to supple it prior to repairing, otherwise the stiff hide may tend to crack again when flexed. The repair may be performed with a bonding Patch-4S or with stitching and camouflaging donor suede fibers.
    Bond-3D with Patch-4s

    1- A 1” Patch-4s strip is sufficient to bond a rip with approximate 1/2” both sides.
    2- Bond-3D is applied sufficiently to half inch along the rip to penetrate and the 1” Patch-4s is also applied half sufficiently.
    3- The Patch-4s is placed and pressed accordingly.
    4- Let naturally dry with hair drying option before repeating the other half and align accordingly.
    5- Let overnight cure and the hide is ready to flip over to proceed cleaning the hair side.

    Bond-3D with Stitching and Donor Fiber.
    1- The hide is cross-stitch with a curve needle to hold the rip together.
    2- Bond-3D is applied about ˝” both sides of the rip.
    3- Donor fiber is scraped with Razor-60 from the thicker areas of the hide especially the head and shoulder areas and applied over the stitching camouflaging it.
    4- The repair is left to natural dry or option drying with hair dryer.
    5- Let overnight cure and the hide is ready to flip over to proceed cleaning the hair side.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    >>> Can you please advise if I clean the hair side now before I start to do the repairs? What is the order for doing this also using the products I have purchased in the first kit??

    Repairs comes first, leave the repairs for overnight cure before flipping over to the hair cleaning.

    Hair Side Cleaning and Conditioning:

    Sequence-5: E) Dry Soil Removal:

    Instruction:

    E1) Vacuum off foreign soiling with help of Hide-Brush-4.

    Sequence-6: F) Wet Soil Removal:

    Instruction:

    F1) Apply CleanHair-5.5, brush along the lay of hair in one direction and towel extract until it shows clean.

    F2) Spray RinseHair-4.0 and towel extract to a squeaky clean.

    F3) Let natural drying and dry towel wipe of wick-up soiling.

    Sequence-7:

    G) Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:

    Instruction:

    G1) Shake well, mist spray Protector-S+ evenly and brush-in with towel to pick up soiling at the same time.

    G2) When dry thereafter groom with HideBrush-4 or a slick comb for best appearance and it is ready for use.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada
    Posts
    4,402

    Default

    >>> How do I approach the repairs on the really large areas and holes? I think I have to shave some fibre and combine these with the 3D bond and then apply.... I think glueing rather than stitching is going to be required as the hide although more flexible is still pretty fragile in many areas.

    1- Getting the alignment without distortion before bonding it is the priority.
    2- The bigger pieces are put in place and then following in according to reduces piece sizes.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •