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Thread: 2007 King Ranch F150 - Leather Seats

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    516

    Default 2007 King Ranch F150 - Leather Seats

    I was hoping to get advise on what product to use. We have 10 years old F150 King Ranch truck and the front seats need help. We had a local company start re-staining one of the seat but they used products not designed for this leather. Instead of tan, the seat turned out reddish and the product did not even get absorbed into the leather, leaving the surface sticky days after application. The color was possible to wipe off with a wet towel. It is our daughter’s truck and she was concerned about the undesirable finish bonding to the seat and proceeded to wipe the whole seat with a wet towel, saturating the leather for 6 hours, making it very wet. She removed the unwanted products down to the original, faded leather.

    She is driving to an out of state college in 5 days, so we don’t have time to wait for the seat to dry and try treating the leather again. I guess now we are looking for a way to help the seat dry without cracking and shrinking and last until next summer when she comes back home when we could have the seats restored.

    Is there a product to apply while the leather is drying?
    How about a product to help the seat ‘survive’ the year until it can be restored? It has been sanded by the local company in order to stain it, so it is ‘bare', without any protection. But if we wanted to re-stain next summer, would applying any conditioners prevent the stain from being absorbed in the leather?

    I apologize for the long description. Can you recommend any products for us?

    Dear Kamila,

    See this link for all the solution for King Ranch leathers.
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/ford-ki...her-care-kits/

    Lets have some pictures and I will share with you the priority of sequence.

    1st - It is important to clean and pH stabilize the leather structure so that they would not denature accelerating.
    2nd - the leather has to be rejuvenate so that it would reduce stiffness and prevents cracking.

    The rest of the process for appearance can wait - structural integrity comes first.

    Hi Roger,

    Thank you for your prompt reply!

    The attached pictures are of the passenger front seat that we are worried about. At this time the leather is extremely wet. The darker spots are from body oils and dirt that has not been cleaned. There is a small round hole (about 2 mm in diameter) on the right side of the cushion (2nd picture) where the person 'treating' the seat sanded through. On the left of the hole is a scratch about 5 cm long that is not going through at this time, but it is a weak spot. Those are so far the only two areas of weakness.

    I will send pictures of the middle console and driver's seat in another email so pictures of the seats would not get mixed up.

    Thanks again for your help!


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    Dear Roger,

    The attached pictures are of the middle console and the driver's seat.

    When we purchased the truck a few months ago, the seats were extremely dry, cracking, almost black with stains. We cleaned them with King Ranch cleaner the best we could and have been applying the King Ranch conditioner regularly. At this point at least the stiffness/dry feeling is gone.

    As you can see, the seats need much more cleaning/conditioning. Again, if we do anything now, it would only be to make the leather 'survive' until next summer when we can plan to take care of the seats properly.

    We appreciate any assistance you can give us!

    Sincerely,

    Kamila


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    Last edited by Questions!; 08-08-2017 at 10:27 AM.

  2. #2
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    Dear Roger,

    These seats are from 2007 King Ranch F150. We would appreciate any suggestions as to what products to use to preserve the seat until next summer when we will be able to do the full treatment of the leather.
    Last edited by Questions!; 08-08-2017 at 10:32 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada
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    >>> The darker spots are from body oils and dirt that has not been cleaned.

    The first phase of leather restoration is decontamination of foreign soiling. Body oil, grease and sweat is common on these vegetable-tanned leathers, oil and grease being absorbed to produce the darkening effect. Sweat is more damaging as it denatures the leather. As the sweat ferments, it shift the protein fiber ionic negative (-ve) that results in stiffness that leads to cracks. Recommended procedure is by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.9 > Hydrator-3.3 system.


    >>> I guess now we are looking for a way to help the seat dry without cracking and shrinking and last until next summer when she comes back home when we could have the seats restored.

    When the leather structure is free of contamination leather rejuvenating restore the loss fat and oil that keeps the leather supple. The leather structure is rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system and up to 15% of fat and oil when dry will keep the leather supple from stiffness and cracking.


    >>> Is there a product to apply while the leather is drying?


    Soiled leather need first to decontaminate prior to rejuvenating it mentioned in above sequence.


    >>> How about a product to help the seat ‘survive’ the year until it can be restored?

    The answer is in the Fatliquor-5.0 - Fatliquor is the “lifeblood of leather”.


    >>> It has been sanded by the local company in order to stain it, so it is ‘bare', without any protection. But if we wanted to re-stain next summer, would applying any conditioners prevent the stain from being absorbed in the leather?

    The leather need to be soften-up or supple-up prior to refinishing - the original leather structural conditioner used in the tannery is “fatliquor”. Do not confused with ‘surface’ conditioner. Any surface conditioner will need to be removed prior to refinishing.


    >>> There is a small round hole (about 2 mm in diameter) on the right side of the cushion (2nd picture) where the person 'treating' the seat sanded through. On the left of the hole is a scratch about 5 cm long that is not going through at this time, but it is a weak spot. Those are so far the only two areas of weakness.

    Structural weakness from over-stretching is rectified or fortified with Impregnator-26. Filling repairs are performed with Stucco-90 on non-stress areas. Stress areas flexibility is increase with Bond-3D is added to Stucco-90. Stucco-90 can be replaced with donor fiber from the reverse suede side for homogeneity that becomes part of the leather.

    All repairs is performed after leather rejuvenating for suppleness, otherwise they will fail too soon for poor flexibility.

    For your readings . . .

    King Ranch Leather Problem Solving Guide . . .
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    Kit-A5.dr - Leather Degreaser Kit
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    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a5-...degreaser-kit/

    Leather Doctor® Kit-A5.dr: leather degreaser kit is formulated for general routine degreasing from preventing topcoat and dyestuff finishes damages especially to the headrest and armrest of upholstery, collar and cuffs of garment; and auto seat from bare body contacts. Topcoat and dyestuff damages refinishing products are found in Kit-A6.tc, Kit-A7.cl and Kit-K7.tc or Kit-K8.cl for King Ranch leathers respectively. Individual products for dyestuff and topcoat are matched accordingly. Preventive regular surface degreasing is preferred over corrective penetrated degreasing as most often, the topcoat is damaged with dullness and in severe cases, the dyestuff break bonds with the protein fiber. Preventive degreasing is done before a penetrating darkening effect manifest. Degreaser-2.2 is a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that besides emulsifying the greasy contamination, it controls dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, and then follows with Acidifier-2.0 to a healthy squeak. A lower strength cleaning is by Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 and should be first tested prior to resorting to the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system. Hydrator-3.3 has its many functions and used after Acidifier-2.0 is for removing penetrated soiling to the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 acts as a pre-conditioner to relax stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fatliquor (ionic negative -ve charged emulsion of fat and oil). Hydrator-3.3 after Fatliquor-5.0 is to reactivate surface fat and oil remnants using a horsehair Brush-1 to remove unwanted surface milky solution until it turns clear. (otherwise dries sticky from becoming a soil attraction nuisance). Fatliquor-5.0 has a pH value of 5.0, is a polar emulsion just like fresh milk that comprises of 16.66% solid ionic negative -ve charged fat and oil, The 83.33% water encasing contents will break free when ionic attraction between the ionic positive +ve charged leather protein fiber take place. Subsequent application is only possible when partial water content evaporates until the required percentage of fat and oil is accomplished. Slow natural drying and massaging or staking before completely dry will produce a softer leather. Original commercial staking process is done by leather slightly wetting back and machine like teeth staking them. Traditionally, native North Americans soften their leathers by both oiling them and working further by teeth with jaw power, practicing the same principle. Protector-B application when the leather is dry, imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Leather-scented version is with Protector-B+, which will diffuse a classic leather scent to charm. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe leather and suede degreasing system. Shipping Weight Options comes with reduced weight of 0.8kg to save on shipping thus all the 250ml spray bottle concentrates ratio except Degreaser-2.2 have to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.
    Instruction:
    1- Identify leather types and dry soil removal prior to application by terry towel, horsehair Brush-1 or Eraser-4. 2- Shake separation until gel, apply and agitate with horsehair Brush-1 or Eraser-4 for better traction on heavy cleaning. 3- Ensure to drive the product into the leather structure (suede) that matches the depth of oil, grease and sweat penetration. 4- Allow dwelling 5 to 30 minutes or before it dries for a complete soiling emulsification and suspension to occur. 5- Extract suspended soiling with dry terry cotton towel and change folding until towel shows clean. 6- Remaining sticky residues is removed with Rinse-3.0 to a squeaky-clean and for reduces bleeding and increases the leather ionic positive (-ve) charge use Acidifier-2.0 instead. 7- Suspended soiling particulates beneath surface will need the use of Hydrator-3.3 to disperse and float up to the surface. This may be done with plastic cling wrapping it for evaporation control and leave to dwell with a consistent high moisture content up to 72hrs. Besides dispersing the soiling particulates to resurface it acts to reactivate the dormant dyestuff and redistribute them for a saturation enriched appearance. 8- Plastic wrapping is removed and leather towel extracted to almost 25% remaining moisture content or until dry towel extraction shows dry. 9- Fatliquor-5.0 application follows with help from leather Brush-1 agitation for even penetration. At each almost drying cycle more is applied and work into the leather until the desired calculated amount is fully replenished. Remember that 83.33% of water content has to evaporates before additional batches of application can be absorbed until the desire average of 15% total fat and oil content when dry, read from a leather moisture meter or equivalent. The last batch of application drying residue has to be clean off or drive-into the leather to prevent any surface stickiness when dry. Slow natural drying and when manipulated, massaged or staked before complete dry will produce a softer leather. 10- Fatliquoring may continue with the leather slightly wetting back with Hydrator-3.3 prior to application until satisfaction. 11- Topcoat damages may be repaired after dry preparation with Eraser-4 and fine 2000grit sanding and re-finished with AnilineTop-76/83G as an option. A test is performed to see appearance satisfaction as it amplifies and magnifies existing appearance. Otherwise Aniline-76/83G dyestuff is applied followed with AnilineTop-76/83G. 12- Protector-B or B+ is the last application that ends this holistic approach to degreasing and refinishing.
    Tips:
    Optimum fatliquor (fat and oil) moisture content in dry healthy leathers is up to 15% when read with a leather moisture meter or an equivalent. Existing cracks magnifies when fatliquor moisture content falls below 7% level when dry for most leather and especially for the naked vegetable-tanned leathers popularly known as King Ranch leathers.
    Leather by nature is both hydrophilic and oleophilic and easily absorb body contact oil, grease and sweat. Penetrated and prolong soiling contamination that has high sweat content tends to denature the leather that manifest as stickiness, with a dye-bleeding problem. Leather-safe degreasing with charging the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) is the science and logic approach to effective degreasing. In additional to a deep non-hazardous and non-toxic degreasing, the leather is reverted from denaturing into rawhide. Degreasing at a low pH of 2.2 below the average pH neutral (iso-electric or pI) of leather revitalize the ionic attraction. The amphoteric protein fiber returns to its ionic positive (+ve) attraction towards the negative (-ve) leather constituents that includes the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. When such contamination is thereafter rinsed with Acidifier-2.0, the leather returns to a healthy squeak with reduce dye bleeding in a leather-safe waterbased system. Moreover, the leather is softer when dry without leaching out of its original fat and oil as associated with a dry solvent system.


    Further readings:

    Leather Doctor Hydrator-3.3 is a water-based pH3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is mainly used as a fatliquoring preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in RTU, Fill and Conc. RTU is (ready-to-use) straight from the bottle. Fill is concentrate ratio in the same spray bottle to be cut and fill with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. Conc is the 60ml concentrate to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 25 that makes 1.64 quarts prior to use to save on shipping. The multi functional abilities include: A- Surface Tension Inspection. B- Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification. C- Structural Cleaning. D- Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification. E- Dye Fading Rectification. F- Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling. G- Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification. H- Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning. I- Leather Shrinkage Rectification:

    Instruction:

    A - Surface Tension Inspection:
    Surface tension prevents liquid penetration and may result in undesired blotchiness with uneven absorption. Surface tension inspection is for even appearance of even absorption rate prior to Fatliquor-5.0 application - Instruction . . . A1- The leather surface to be fatliquored is lightly mist spray with Hydrator-3.3 evenly and wipe with lint free towel to free of surface tension prior to fatliquoring. It is then let to slow dry. A2- Fatliquored surface residue sheen when dry if any, is driven into the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 in conjunction with appropriate brushes, converting milky residue if any to crystal clear. A3- The crystal clear moisture is towel extracted until towel shows dry. A4- When almost dry of up to 25% combine moisture content the leather is stake, stretch or massage to complete dry for desired suppleness.

    B - Leather Stiffness and Unnatural Creases Rectification:
    Leather stiffness is fibers structure that becomes stick together when leather commonly gets wet and in most cases fatliquor leaches out. Severe stiffness results when leather lost its fatliquor under heat over-exposure and should be handle with caution from cracking it. Leather creases are unnatural wrinkles resulting from the collapsing empty leather fiber structure due to diminishing fatliquor (fat and oil) content.To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils by manipulating away-unwanted stiffness and unnatural creases is as follows - Instruction . . . B1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. B2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. B3- It is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing to relax the leather to satisfaction. B4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring begins before the leather is completely dry. B5- The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. B6- The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. B7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness. Best result is manipulating the leather structure to dryness for extra desired suppleness.

    C - Structural Cleaning:
    Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps - Instruction . . . C1- The leather is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards. C2- To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up Hydrator-3.3. C3- The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean. C4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. C5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. C6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. C7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    D - Dye Bleeding, Leather Tackiness and Stiffness Rectification:
    Common alkaline overexposure may be detected moist with tackiness or sliminess from the leaching or breaking of hydrogen bond between the leather protein fibers and the tanning agents. Bleeding detected with a white cotton towel is the result of the dyestuff breaking the hydrogen bond as well. Stiffness after leather was wet and dry again is the result of the fibers becoming stick together due to diminishing or leaching fatliquor, emptying out the leather structure. To rectify alkaline overexposure areas is by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas back to the affected areas. In severe cases Acidifier-2.0 is highly recommend in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 to effectively pH balance the leather structure back to its pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI). Note, average pH of chrome-tanned leather is from 3 - 5, and vegetable-tanned leather is about 1 point lower thus more pH sensitive. Procedure sequence for rectifying alkaline overexposure of bleeding, tackiness and stiffness is as follows - Instruction . . . D1- Saturate Hydrator-3.3 into the thickness of the leather to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. D2- Cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell for redistributing of the leather constituents from surrounding area for up to 72hours with periodic inspection and topping up. D3- Towel extraction test for dye bleeding, finger testing to detect and eliminate undesired tackiness or sliminess for a tactile squeaky feel and relax stiffness prior to fatliquoring. D4- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. D5- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. D6- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. D7- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    E - Dye Fading Rectification:
    Vat-dyed leathers or aniline dyed leathers is subject to sun fading. However, the dormant dyestuff may be activated to refresh the surface with Hydrator-3.3. It will depend on richness of the dormant dyestuff and the dwell time for the hydrator to release the excess dyestuff to resurface, and result may vary from quality of original dyeing process. This is done with sufficient hydration and dwell time up to 72hours. The common practice is as follows - Instruction . . . E1- The thickness of the leather is saturated or hydrated with Hydrator-3.3 to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. E2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let to dwell up to 72 hours for excess dyestuff to resurface. E3- The plastic covering is removed and let to natural dry to observe color improvement. E4- With color refreshing satisfaction, the leather is lightly wet back with Hydrator-3.3 again to relax its structure prior to fatliquoring. E5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. E6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. E7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. E8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling:
    Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating Hydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice the following steps are adopted - Instruction . . . F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates. F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is spray wet with Hydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less then 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking. F4- Towel-T5 is peel off when crispy dry and surface residue erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquoring. F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. F7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. F8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    G - Leather pH Chemistry Integrity Rectification:
    Leather is an amphoteric material or pH sensitive to the protein fibers. Alkalinity will shift the leather protein fiber ionic negative (-ve), while the other common leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and fatliquor are non-amphoteric and remains ionic negative (-ve). Thus like a magnet “like poles repels”, the leather constituent breaks hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber and the leather denatures or revert to rawhide. Breaking of hydrogen bonds between the protein fibers and its constituents often manifest as tackiness, bleeding and stiffness when leather gets wet and dry again. Charging of the leather protein fibers ionic positive (+ve) has to go below its pH neutral (iso-electric point or pI) of pH 3 - 5. Thus in extreme cases Acidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0 accelerate the ionic positive (+ve) charging processes to restore the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. In practice the following steps are observed - Instruction . . . G1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers. G2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours for chemical reaction to take place. G3- The plastic wrapping is removed and lightly spray with Hydrator-3.3 to even out the surface and inspect for any unwanted tackiness or bleeding. G4- Acidifier-2.0 treatment may be necessary for tackiness or bleeding control. Healthy leather that is stabilized, pH balanced and ionic positive (+ve) charged should feels squeaky instead with reduced bleeding. With satisfaction to restore the leather pH chemistry integrity, fatliquoring continues. G5- Fatliquoring begins and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying. G6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. G7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. G8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    H - Fatliquor Surface Residue Cleaning:
    Fatliquor with its fat and oil content is essential for leather suppleness from cracking, it is meant for its structure, any surface remnants may alter its original surface luster and attracts soiling. Removing fatliquor surface residue is by brushing with appropriate brushes while spraying with Hydrator-3.3 turning the milky residue to crystal clear. When almost dry the leather is stack or massaged to dry for extra suppleness. The sequence of steps is as follows - Instruction . . . H1- Likely mist Hydrator-3.3 on surface remnants and it will turn milky. H2- Brush to drive the milky residue into the leather structure. H3- Extract until towel shows dry. H4- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    I - Leather Shrinkage Rectification:
    Leather shrinkage is often experience when leather is water damaged in conjunction with fast heat drying from the sun or other heat sources. Another common dry shrinkage is from intense heat of the sun or fireplace. Heat evaporates the fatliquor (fat and oil); the leather fibers shrunk, become stick together and result in stiffness. Fatliquor is the lifeblood of leathers and with deficiency the leather stiffens up and easily leads to cracking. Rectification is as follows - Instruction . . . I1- The thickness of the leather is saturated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers with Hydrator-3.3. I2- The leather is cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72hrs for complete hydration or saturation. I3- When fully hydrated and relaxed it is then manipulate by staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing the shrinkage to satisfaction. I4- With satisfaction and allowing up to 25% combine moisture content or when a cotton dry towel remains dry from wiping and the leather is still damp with Hydrator-3.3, fatliquoring with Fatliquor-5.0 begins before the leather is completely dry. I5- The fatliquored leather is left to slow dry and any surface shining residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear. I6- The surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry. I7- Begin staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.




    Leather Doctor Fatliquor-5.0 is an anionic negative (-ve) charged micro emulsion of fat, oil and water for rejuvenating all leather types. It is typically used in conjunction after Hydrator-3.3 relaxing and opening up the fibrous leather structure. It softens the leather when dry with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It is for replenishing the original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline overexposure or cleaning. On application, the water-encased molecule breaks free when ionic attraction takes place between the fat and oil with the leather protein fiber. The excess free water content wicks out leaving a breathing space behind for leather natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness from easily collapsing into creases and wrinkles during stress or flex, while the oil lubricates the fibers so that they slide over one another smoothly like millions of inter-connecting hinges. Thus helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing. This universal Fatliquor-5.0 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin. Size options are available in ‘RTU’, ‘Fill’ and ‘Conc’. RTU is ready-to-use straight from the bottle. Fill is concentrate in the bottle to be cut and fill with distilled water prior to use to save on shipping. Conc is concentrates to be cut with distilled water at a ratio of 1: 5 to save on shipping. Thus 250ml Conc becomes 1.58 quarts of RTU and Quart Conc becomes 6 quarts of RTU.
    Leather Approximate Quantity or Percentage of Fatliquor:

    The quantities of fatliquor (fat and oil) contents retained in the leather after an universal tannery fatliquoring process may varies up from 14% to 16% depending on the leather types and it usage. This percentage drops as the fat and oil content diminishes or leaches through ageing, water, heat or chemical overexposure. Leather rejuvenating or fatliquor replenishing is base on weight of the leather in relation to the percentage of remaining fatliquor. A simple calculation of percentage of fatliquor topping up requirement would be as follows: If the weight of the leather in question is 100gm and fatliquor (fat and oil) content meter reading is less than 1%. By applying 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to it will deliver an end result incremental of 13.3% fatliquor when dry as the 66.6% water contents evaporates. In the leather rejuvenating Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, Hydrator-3.3 plays an important role by relaxing, opening up the inter-fibrillary spaces, facilitating and redistributing colloidal water movement, protonating and doing all the pre-conditioning work prior to fatliquoring including cleaning up any excess surface remnants to have a sticky-free surface. In practice with severe dryness the ratio for Hydrator-3.3 is 2 to 1 of Fatliquor-5.0. It works out to be approximately 160gm of Hydrator-3.3 plus 80gm of Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish a 100gm dry leather from less than 1% back to the original tannery up from 14% to 16% fatliquor content. In every bottle of Fatliquor-5.0 by weight content is comprises of 16.66% ionic negative (-ve) charged fat and oil, and 83.33% of water, the water content that encased the fat and oil molecule in an emulsion suspension when hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber will break free and discharged clear from the leather structure to the surface.

    Instruction:

    1- Warm-up and shake well to a full emulsion for better penetration.

    2- Apply Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.

    3- Repeat applications each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.

    4- Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.

    5- Allow natural drying for extra softness.

    6- Suppleness of leathers is further stake or massage or flex accordingly with a little wet back with Hydrator-3.3.

    Caution:

    Insufficient fatliquoring (fat and oil) content may suffer cracking from staking, massaging or flexing.

    Tips:

    1 When crispy dry, prior surface contamination/damages may darkens as soiling particulates resurface.

    2 Removes soiling particulates with Eraser-4 for all leathers including nubuck and Eraser-5 for suede.

    3 Stretching the darken areas lightly will also lightens the appearance.



    Frequent Asked Questions:

    >>> I finally got around to looking at the instructions to begin to apply my Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 application. I must say, the instructions are quite extensive, a little confusing and I'm sure a lot that doesn't apply to my application. Again, I am trying to remove some wrinkles on a seat bolster in a car that is only 6 years old. So the leather I would imagine is the way it is from stress and not from age. Would you be able to tell me in simple, layman terms how you would recommend going about applying to achieve the results I am looking for? It would be greatly appreciated.

    With the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system you may start with:

    1- Apply the Hydrator-3.3 and use a horsehair brush or equivalent to remove surface soiling and extract with a white cotton terry towel until towel shows clean.

    2- Apply Hydrator-3.3 with the polybrush and let it absorbed into the leather structure - keep on apply as long as it get soaks in.

    3- Use a cling wrapper to control evaporation and leave it there up to 72hrs or a shorter duration to soften up the leather structure. There should be a little moisture oozing out when press with fingers and thumb to have the hydrator at its optimum level during this dwell time - may it long or short.

    4- When the leather structure is limp and soft, the cling wrapper is removed and wick-up soiling is extracted with towel until towel shows clean.

    5- While still damp, Fatliquor-5.0 is applied with the same polybrush to be fully absorbed by the leather structure. In each application cycle 83.33% of the fatliquor water content needs to be evaporated. It is the fat and oil contents that are essential to supple up the leather, the fat plumps the leather and the oil lubricates for softness. When the last application pools on the surface will indicate sufficient absorption and ends the application.

    6- The leather is left for slow natural drying and surface shine is removed with Hydrator-3.3 until any milky residue is removed off the surface.

    7- The seat can be used immediately by placing a towel over it.

    8- It is also recommended that the seat be used from almost dry to dry to produce extra softness to the leather with strength.



    The Lazarus Effect 5 Star Review

    Product Reviews - Posted by Larry Bauman on 31st Jul 2017

    This product revived my 40 year old Sheepskin coat that cracked at the touch of it after applying another company's 'Restoration' product. That other product ruined my coat, and I was about to throw it away, but took a chance on the Leather Doctor. After applying Hydrater 3.3, I saw an immediate change. I then continued with the Fatliquor 5.0, and was shocked to see the change. My coat is now as soft and supple as it was when I purchased it in 1975! Don't even take a chance on valuable leathers with other companies' products, this one will amaze you sith its results.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 08-09-2017 at 12:18 PM.

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    >>> To protect the seat for one year until the proper restoration can be done next summer, can we apply only the Fatliquor 5.0 or is there more steps to do?

    Hydrator-3.3 is the standard Fatliquor-5.0 pre-conditioner and it helps in may areas to soften up the leather for strength. Without the basic opening up the leather fiber structure and make ways for the Fatliquor-5.0, the Fatliquor-5.0 cannot function effectively. Besides the Hydrator-3.3 with a pH value lower then the leather pH neutral of 3 - 5 charges the leather protein fiber ionic positive (-ve) for a more effective, lasting and stronger hydrogen bonding.


    >>> For the time being we are only interested in protecting the leather until next summer restoration, we are not worried about stains, etc. at this time.

    Stains like body sweat denatures the leather as the traces of urea and ammonia weakens the protein fiber positive (+ve) charges and need to be removed and neutralized with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.
    Thus the basic combination system includes Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0. Other known stains are also recommended to be removed; otherwise the leather pH chemistry may be compromised, thus rendering the fatliquoring ineffective.


    >>> Also, if we use the Fatliquor 5.0 now, will that prevent successful restoration later? (Will we be able to clean the stains and re-stain the leather?)


    Fatliquoring will not interfere with future restoration. But you may have to start from the beginning once again.

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