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Thread: Help with Hermes!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2017
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    Default Help with Hermes!

    Hello!

    I need help and advice on what products to clean different types of Hermes leathers. I have a Courcheval Birkin, Togo Birkin, and a Clemence Evelyne with suede interior (which needs cleaning due to a small spot). What products are best used on each of those leathers for everyday maintenance and then when they need deep cleanings? Thank you so much in advance!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada
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    >>>What products are best used on each of those leathers (Courcheval Birkin, Togo Birkin,) for everyday maintenance and then when they need deep cleanings?

    For everyday maintenance see the “Routine Care” instruction and for deep cleaning see “Restorative Care” instruction.

    The difference between Kit-Sa3 and Kit-A3 is Prep-7.7 and Prep-4.4. Both prep products are for deep or heavy cleaning including blue jean dye transfer. However, the product suffix number indicates its pH value, Thus Prep-4.4 is leather-safe within the pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI) of leather, recommended to used on leathers that are absorbent like most anilines and napa pigment (breathable pigment). Prep-7.7 is stronger for non-absorbent leather working on the surfaces of the finishes. These 2 Kit-Sa3 and Kit-A3 can be combined by just adding Prep-4.4 to the Kit-Sa3, as the rest of the products are the same.


    >>> a Clemence Evelyne with suede interior (which needs cleaning due to a small spot).

    The stain will need to be identified to remove it 100%. Suede type is to be identified as well. See these 2 Suede Problem Solving Instruction/Matrix - row #8 - #17

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    For unknown stain here is a guide to positively identify it.

    Leather Stain Identification

    Appearance
    - Stain identification by appearance will show whether it the characteristic of a spill, rub-on, penetrated or deposited. It may also reveal dye or finishes damages cause by the stain.

    Odor
    - Stain identification by smell can be very helpful in positive identification. Some of the more common odor may be moldy, smoke, putrid or ammonic from urine.

    Color
    - Stain identification by color will also give a clue to the staining material. If the stain is red, it could be beverages, nail polish, lipstick, blood, or some other things. Color identification may not necessary be right; with time, a red bloodstain may turn to a stain that is tan to black. The color of the leather may mesmerize or alter the color of the stain.

    Feel of Hand
    - Stain identification by feel of hand may help determine the stain types. For instance, if it is sticky and red it could be candy, beverages or other things that have sugar in them. If the stain is brittle and stiff, it may be nail polish, shellac or paint. If it smears, it may have grease base to it, such as lipstick.

    Location
    - Stain identification by location may give a clue as to the makeup of the staining substance. If it is dark at the headrest or the edge of the armrest, it is most likely stain by body oil, grease and perspiration by hand or by head.

    Buildup or Absorbed
    - A stain may take several appearances. The stain may be lying on top of the leather (buildup) on most pigmented leather or absorbed into the leather on most unfinished, aniline and nubuck leathers. Naturally, it could also be a combination of absorbed and built up. If it has been absorbed, this will be an indication that it was a liquid when it penetrates the leather. It should also alert us that it may have chemically changed the dye of the leather. An example of this would be a perspiration stain that has reacted with the leather dye and changed it in some way. This would occur more likely on dyed absorbent leathers. The perspiration could also have weakened the fibers of the leather. In any event, this leather may show a marked color change in that area after spotting, and possibly after cleaning. Examples of built up stains are paint and some foodstuff, etc. Examples of absorbed stains are beverages, wine, tea, coffee, etc. A combination stain may be lipstick, ink, mustard, etc. it will have part of its staining matter absorbed into the leather and part of it accumulated on the surface. A stain may also be a substance that has wet solvent-soluble and dry solvent-soluble components combined. An example of this would be gravy which contains grease, flour (from plant), and milk (from an animal). Paint type stains are readily detected because of their stiff nature and generally bright colors and they seem to be sitting on top of the leather. When identifying stains always try to a determine whether they are of a protein, cellulose, oil based, or a colloidal make-up nature. Three common types of soiling or stain are solvent-soluble, water-soluble and insoluble. Stains are frequently of a combination nature, and in most instances, there will be no information from the customer regarding the stain especially if they are bought used.

    The common exterior leather finishes for these bags are semi-aniline and aniline and interior suede.
    Thus we are looking at three care kits:
    Kit-Sa3 - Semi-Aniline Leather Care Kit http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-sa3...ther-care-kit/
    Kit-A3 - Aniline Leather Care Kit http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-...ther-care-kit/
    Kit-S3 - Suede Care Kit http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-s3-suede-care-kit/

    Here is an example of Kit-Sa3 with different level of cares
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    Leather Doctor® Kit-Sa3, semi-aniline or micro-pigmented leather, care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system formulated for keeping leather at their highest level of appearance besides maintaining their structural chemistry integrity and enhancing their suppleness. Finishes develops micro crazing as it ages and heat dries out the fatliquor (fat and oil) from these weak point and stitching holes. The diminishing of the fatliquor empties or dries out the leather that results in creases and wrinkles. Stiffness to the leather is another sign of fatliquor diminishing that collapse the inter-fibrillary spaces making the fiber becomes stick together and when flexed during used will lead to cracks. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to hydrate the stick together fibers prior to fatliquor replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and strong. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness and cracking. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced when friction noise is kept low. The noise reduction is accomplished with rub-resistant Protector-B that imparts a natural buttery-feel. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Clean-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0 to the body contact area helps reduce greasy soiling build-up. Removing of unwanted stains such as ink or the common new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-7.7. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.

    Instruction:

    Preventive Care:
    A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant ability reduces friction noises that translate into less friction wear. This leather-scented version Protector-B+ diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This preventive care is kept in place at each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling. 1 - Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry. Leather scented version is available as Protector-B+.

    Routine Care:
    Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the pH balancing of sweat stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wears.
    1 - Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
    2 - Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    Periodic Care:
    Periodic care is recommended before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Body contact areas would require more frequent attention than the unused areas. While the leather headrest and hand rest gets the most of body oil and sweat contacts.
    1st phase – Periodic Care:
    1 - Spray Clean-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
    2 - Towel extract until it shows clean.
    3 - Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
    4 - Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
    2nd phase – Hydrating:
    Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Moreover, it is used to check for surface tension from blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.
    1 - Spray Hydrator-3.3 to check for an even appearance.
    3rd phase – Fatliquoring:
    Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperatures rises especially from exposed surfaces. Periodic fatliquor replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
    1 - Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
    2 - Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
    3 - The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4 - Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
    4th phase – Preventive Care:
    1 - Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

    Restorative Care:
    This is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Using Prep-7.7 performs restorative cleaning. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas.
    1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
    1 - Apply Prep-7.7 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
    2 - Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
    3 - Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean.
    4 - Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean.
    5 - Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
    2nd phase – Hydrating:
    Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Its surfactantcy or surface active agent helps check for surface tension of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    1 - Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate with an even appearance to soften up the leather.
    2 - Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes and towel extract wick up soiling until it shows clean.
    3rd phase – Fatliquoring:
    Fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
    1 - Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
    2 - Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
    3 - The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4 - Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
    4th phase – Preventive Care:
    1 - Mist sprays Protector-B spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 05-19-2017 at 10:32 AM.

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