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Thread: Fine Paul Smith leather shoes - Stain

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2017

    Default Fine Paul Smith leather shoes - Stain

    Hi Roger:
    I need to restore these fine leather shoes.
    There is a stain in one of the shoes (from 10 years ago), we don't
    know the origin.
    The objective is to remove the stain without darkening the color, as
    well as nourishing and protecting the overall shoes, again, without
    darkening the color.
    Do you think this is feasible?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.


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    >>> I need to restore these fine leather shoes.

    This leather is identified as “Wet-White” leathers. It is the leather that most tanners refer to, due to its pale cream or white color. It is the main type of "chrome-free" leather, often seen in shoes, bags for and automobiles. It is most often unfinished and thus prone to staining like naked unfinished Vachetta.

    >>> There is a stain in one of the shoes (from 10 years ago), we don't know the origin.

    It is more difficult when the stain origin is not know, thus need an intelligent guess and works towards it.
    From the impact of the stain there are splashes, so a burn mark is ruled out.
    It is possible a dirty oil as the surrounding color appears lighter in appearance.

    Using #B13 of the Wet-Leather - (W) Leather Problem Solving Instruction/Matrix is the closest guess according to the steps. Stripper-2.3 may also dries the leather of its original fatliquor, thus it is paramount that Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 follows and clean off fatliquor surface residue with Hydrator-3.3 again to maintain its surface luster.

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    >>> The objective is to remove the stain without darkening the color,

    Stripper-2.3 is a hydrocarbon stripper with a special pH value adjusted to around 2.3 thus avoid any darkening or yellowing effect if the pH value is out of range with the pH neutral (isoelectric point or pI) of the leather. However, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system must follow to avoid the any leather dryness as cracks when stress.

    >>> well as nourishing the overall shoes, again, without darkening the color.

    Leather nourishing or rejuvenating is by Hydrator-3.3 > Hydrator-3.3 > hydrator-3.3 system if the original tannery appearance is to be maintained - to ensure without darkening the color.

    >>> well as protecting the overall shoes, again, without darkening the color.

    These leather are naked, unfinished originally without any protection - what do you have in mind?

    >>> Do you think this is feasible?

    Observation from picture #1 shows the leather is very dry of its original fatliquor average 15% of fat and oil - the perforated oils develops cracks. The leather is now very thirsty and have shrunk as well, that is too tight when worn and does not feel comfortable. When fully top-up with Fatliquor-5.0 it will be very comfortable to wear. The abrasion is also a sign of the leather loosing its strength thus easier scuff and abraded.

    Depending on the outcome of the stain removal - the leather may go through a refinishing that involved the following sequence of steps after Fatliquor-5.0

    Adhesor-73 to smooth the grains of the leather (this will darken the appearance) thus has to be color up with Napa-84 > NapaTop-84S > Protector-B/B+.

    This refinishing process will transform unfinished Wet-White to finished Napa leathers that is still breathable but have a monotone look due to its opaque pigment, essential to camouflage any residue of the remaining stain.

    What do you think?

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.


    Please refer to the Leather Problem Solving Instruction/Matrix and consider row #A6 and B1, before attempting B13 (due to leather dryness).

    Penetrated stains will need this help . . .

    F - Reverse-Transfer Suspended Soiling:

    Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating Hydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice the following steps are adopted -

    Instruction . . .

    F1- The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.

    F2- It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates

    F3- The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is spray wet with Hydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less then 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking.

    F4- Towel-T5 is peel off when crispy dry and surface residue erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquoring.

    F5- Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying.

    F6- Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear.

    F7- Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry.

    F8- Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 05-03-2017 at 11:35 AM.

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