2007 Toyota Solar Convertible - Ivory color leather - Mold infested!

[Questions!]

This is Mark.
We spoke this afternoon about how to repair leather car seats that had black mold on them.
I've attached two pictures; hopefully they are clear enough for you to see the damage.
You can also see a small rust stain where the seat belt was.

#1


#2

[Roger Koh]

This is what you will need after studying the pictures

1 - Kit-Af3
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-af3...ther-care-kit/


2 - Kit-A3.mk
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-a3-...or-killer-kit/


3 - Prep-7.7 - a stronger prep cleaner for the non-perforated areas
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/prep-7-7/

4 - CleanTarnish-1.3 - for removing the rust stain.
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/cleantarnish-1-3/

5 - Basifier-8.8 - to neutralize the CleanTarnish-1.3
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/basifier-8-8/

You combine the above with no duplication would be sufficient to see significant improvement, and we can go from there to further improve appearance as necessary.

What do you think?

[Roger Koh]

>>> I don't have a login to post on the forum and didn't see where I could obtain a login.

Have you registered, if not go ahead.


>>> I applied the Prep 7.7 and covered with paper towel, but I was not able to get the paper towel to stick with no air, so the Prep 7.7 would dry. I applied 3 times, using new paper towels and more Prep 7.7 each time. At the 72hour mark I used Clean 3.8 and Rinse 3.0. The attached photos show the result.

See post 5 #3 Paper towel is squeeze through the Prep-7.7 without leaving air space
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...cture-Showcase


>>> I can use Prep 7.7 multiple times within the 72-hour period before applying any Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0, right?

Right!


>>> I used the included horsehair brush the first time to apply the Prep 7.7 - the other times I just rubbed it in with my gloved finger. How should I clean the horsehair brush?

Clean the brush with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0


>>> Do I try again with the Prep 7.7?

Yes, you can.


>>> I saw that I shouldn't apply the Prep 7.7 to the perforated leather - can I apply it to the regular leather where there is stitching? I hope so, because I've already done that.

No! Use Prep-4.4 instead if it bound to get into the leather structure, otherwise need to pH balance with Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize it.

Also see post #2 from this link for some cleaning examples:
http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...cture-Showcase

[Solarahack]

Thanks for your reply, Roger.

I've done two rounds of Prep 7.7, Clean 3.8 and Rinse. Here are pix of after the first round and after the second round:

First round result



Second round result



There is progress. I assume I keep doing this until I get all the black out?

[Roger Koh]

You may recall what "products" you may have applied before the mold sets in could be what you are cleaning off now.

Does it still smells moldy?

Roger Koh
Leather Care System Formulator
Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
web: www.leatherdoctor.com
forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
email: [email protected]

[Solarahack]

It doesn't really smell moldy now. I'm focusing on getting the black mold stains out.

Before using your products I only sprayed on apple cider vinegar and tried to wipe off the mold with a damp rag. I also took the seats out of the car and let them sit in the sun for an afternoon to try to kill the mold.


I've realized one mistake I've made is not letting the Prep 7.7 dwell before applying a paper towel. I applied some Prep 7.7 last night to two dark spots shown in the photos and let it dwell overnight. This morning I applied a paper towel but the Prep 7.7 had pretty much dried. If it's completely dry tonight I'll do the Clean 3.8 and Rinse and see what I get.