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Thread: mwerdith leather sofa and chairs with sun fading scratches and oils

  1. #1
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    Default mwerdith leather sofa and chairs with sun fading scratches and oils

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  2. #2
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    Leather finishes is identified as Aniline (A.fs) Full Sauvage.

    Use this Aniline (A.fs) Full Sauvage Leather Problem Solving Guide. . .

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    Custom match accordingly to sample and proceed with this Kit-A7.cl system . . .
    Depends on the result the Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, option is either goes darker with Aniline-76 or a combination of Micro-54 to blends in any unwanted darkening effect then follows with Aniline-76.

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    Leather Doctor® Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Protector-B+ is the classic leather scented version. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-31-2016 at 10:37 PM.

  3. #3
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    Sample received is “aniline” finish.

    When refinishing back to original aniline finishes Aniline-76 “coating” system is recommended, as existing topcoat becomes an obstacle by using the original Aniline-21 system, unless all existing topcoating is removed so that the protein fiber is “stain” evenly.

    As dyestuff is transparent, any darkening effect from the body oil, grease and sweat stains may show through, thus to camouflage the darkening effect additional layers is practice to even out the darkening effect and it will then have an overall darker color saturation is one option.

    Another option is to maintain its original color intensity, by thorough degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, follows by leather rejuvenating system with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. Block off or feather out any undesired darkening effect with Micro-54. Then coat dye over it to camouflage.

    Do you still want what you have requested - 1 quart Aniline-76 and 250ml Micro-54?

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

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    Confused again. Can e use Aniline-76 to try and restore this? And can Micro-54 be applied over
    Aniline -76 if we aren't achieving the results we desire?

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    What is it we need to do this?

    Another option is to maintain its original color intensity, by thorough degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, follows by leather rejuvenating system with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. Block off or feather out any undesired darkening effect with Micro-54. Then coat dye over it to camouflage.

  6. #6
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    The reason for these 3 options depends very much on the degreasing result.

    1 - When the surfaces have no contrasting appearance difference, preference is to use “transparent coating” Anilne-76.
    2 - If there are remaining stubborn darkening effect after a thorough degreasing process, it is either increasing the color intensity to camouflage it and still retains its aniline originality is the preferred second choice.
    3 - Third choice is to rely on Micro-54 to block off the darkening effect then even out with Aniline-76, the down side is any remaining grease present may result in the peeling of the “opaque” coating Micro-54.

    Note:
    My comment is in response to Steve Croke side remarks “let me know if you think otherwise” referring to the Micro-54 request.

    Will need to know your response to my earlier question - “Do you still want what you have requested - 1 quart Aniline-76 and 250ml Micro-54?”


    >>> Confused again. Can e use Aniline-76 to try and restore this?
    Aniline-76 is used either in above three options.


    >>> And can Micro-54 be applied over
    Aniline -76 if we aren't achieving the results we desire?

    Micro-54 is used as the primary coating follows with Aniline-76 as the secondary coating to achieve your desired result.


    >>> Another option is to maintain its original color intensity, by thorough degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system, follows by leather rejuvenating system with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. Block off or feather out any undesired darkening effect with Micro-54. Then coat dye over it to camouflage.

    This is the 3rd option mentioned above.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

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    01-17-A
    How it looked after several degrease and Acidifier Rinse. We actually allowed Degrease to stay on leather overnight and covered with plastic wrap prior to rinsing with Acidifier.

    So now we Degreased and allowed to dwell for several hours, then rinsed with Acidifier and repeated Degrease and acidifier till it was very squeaky clean.

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    01-17 B
    Applying Degreaser for the fourth time

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    01-17 C
    Acidifier, almost a puddle, squeegee with aniline eraser and absorb with fresh terry towels

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    01-17 D
    I know you say to use stretchy paper towel for poultice but it wasn't sticking to leather so we used Diatomaceous earth as a poultice. I will let it dry overnight or several days until completely dry. Hopefully all darkening effect will be gone.

  8. #8
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    >>> then rinsed with Acidifier and repeated Degrease and acidifier till it was very squeaky clean.
    You have described about surface cleaning which is correct.

    I believe the next step you want is to get the suspended contamination out of the leather structure, but it is still inside beyond any physical reach. Leave this work to the Hydrator-3.3 - See Tips C - Structural Cleaning and F - Reverse transfer with Towel-5. And if the Towel-5 “wasn’t sticking to the leather, then pile the diatomaceous earth on top of the towel. At least your after cleaning will be simpler.

    Note:
    I do not have any experience that the Towel-5 does not stick. Please show some pictures of your application technique why the Towel-5 does not stick?

    Hydrator-3.3 Tips for point C & F:

    C - Structural Cleaning: Structural cleaning is cleaning penetrated soiling or foreign contamination from below surface. This process includes the following steps:
    Instruction:
    C1 - The leather is hydrated with Hydrator-3.3, depends on severity up to 72hours dwelling is recommended to moves the soiling upwards.
    C2 - To maintain a consistent moisture level, the leather in question may be seal in container or plastic wrapping with periodic inspection to top up Hydrator-3.3.
    C3 - The suspended soiling is extracted by squeezing between an absorbent towel and a smooth spatula to reduce abrasion until towel shows clean.
    C4 - Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying.
    C5 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear.
    C6 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry.
    C7 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    F - Removing Penetrated Stains by Reverse-Transfer with Towel-T5:

    Capillary action or wicking process is deployed to move penetrated and suspended soiling to resurface by reverse-transfer technique with Towel-T5. First the leather structure needs to be hydrated to facilitate colloidal water movement within the structural inter-fibrillary spaces, it will also require saturating Hydrator-3.3 to move the suspended soiling upwards. As it wicks through the Towel-T5, soilings are trapped instead of still remaining on the leather surface to be easily peeled off. In practice the following steps are adopted . . .
    Instructions:
    F1 - The thickness of the leather is hydrated to an optimum level with moistures oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    F2 - It is then cover up with plastic wrapping to control evaporation and let it dwell up to 72 hours to loosen and suspend foreign soiling particulates.
    F3 - The plastic wrapping is removed and replace with Towel-T5 without airspace to trap soiling as it dries instead of remaining on the surface. For it to stick onto the leather surface, the Towel-5 is spray wet with Hydrator-3.3 and brush out the air space with horsehair Brush-1 at a 45 degrees angle without tearing the towel tight. As it dries it will shrink back and tighten further sticking tight onto the leather surface. Recommend that Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished in combination at this stage especially if the leather has already show signs of cracking. Note that dried leathers with insufficient fatliquor (less then 15% fat and oil) content, when dry again will likely accelerate any existing cracking.
    F4 - Towel-T5 is peel off when crispy dry and surface residue erase with Eraser-4 or Eraser-5 for suede accordingly prior to fatliquoring.
    F5 - Fatliquoring continues and is repeated with each almost drying cycle until saturation and is leave to slow natural drying.
    F6 - Fatliquored dried surface residue is driven into the leather structure by brushing in conjunction with Hydrator-3.3 until milky residue if any turns crystal clear.
    F7 - Surface clear moisture is extract with a cotton towel until towel shows dry.
    F8 - Staking, stretching, massaging or cross flexing one more time before the leather is completely dried for the desired suppleness.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-17-2017 at 11:16 AM.

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