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Thread: Refurbishment advise needed!

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    2

    Default Refurbishment advise needed!

    I have been going in circles on this topic and noticed this blog and thought i’d ask for any advise, as i really don’t know much about sheepskin and refurbishment! However, I got a jacket in a garage sale the finish is ‘flaking’ all over the jacket, the actual panels are all in good order as well as the zip/other fixings, it’s real sheepskin and very soft to the touch so I wondered if it was possible to refurbish it… on that note is there anything you guys can recommend/have you done this before? I have attached pictures so you can have a look.

    Kind Regards
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,653

    Default

    Here is a description that matches your pictures. . .

    Shearling Nappalan Pigment produces a 'monotone opaque' appearance and is smooth leather on the outer side, finished over the suede and shorn wool on the inner side. Depending on the finishes used, either forming a 'non-continuous film' with Napa-84 system that is absorbent or darkens with water droplets testing or a 'continuous film' that becomes non-absorbent that shows water testing pooling on its surface with Micro-54 system. The absorbent types are easily scuffed and will create a distress look when the suede naps are partial revealed for fashion wearing comfort and the non-absorbent finishes with Micro-54 is formulated for sports wear. Shearlings are made from the pelts of sheepskin or lambskin by tanning them with the wool of uniform depth still on them with different finishes types. The other version is Shearling Nappalan Aniline that produces a sauvage appearance more for fashion wear.

    There are two faces to this sheepskin or shearling jacket, the Inner Wool Face is clean and condition with:
    CleanWool-5.5 > RinseWool-4.0 > Protector-S (scentless) or S+ (leather-scented) system.

    See this Nappalan Leather Problem Solving Matrix for refurbishing the damaged coating - See row E2 for the recommended steps.
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    >>> have you done this before?
    Yes, I develop this system based on my years of practical service provider, now simplified that you can do it yourself as good a me when you follow the instruction.

    I will walk you through when you are ready. . .

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Roger,

    Thank you for the swift reply, below is an image of water on the jacket. [ATTACH=CONFIG]7163
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    4,653

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    Micro-54 system for non absorbent leather finishes, use this Pigmented (P.sa) Micro-Pigmented Leather Problem Solving Guide - row E2 Under Structural Problem for "Worn".

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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    Your my consider this starter Kit-Sa7.cl or pick up the products as individual bottles accordingly.

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    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-sa7...finishing-kit/
    Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to not only the finishes but also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles.

    Instruction:

    Stripping Existing Deteriorating Finishes:
    1. Cover and tape off frames, trims and protect flooring.
    2. Mist sprays Stripper-2.3, Eraser-4 scrub with help of 2000-grit sandpaper feathering out seamlessly and towel extract for an even appearance.

    Degreasing:
    1. Shake Degreaser-2.2 to gel prior to use with a repeat shake and rest until it gels.
    2. Transfer to Eraser-4; agitate to saturate the stain, feather out to the entire section.
    3. Towel extracts suspended soiling after 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries until it shows clean.
    4. Spray Acidifier-2.0, towel extract until it shows clean to a healthy squeak.

    Hydrating:
    1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 saturating the stain area and feather out for an even appearance.
    2. Covering with tissue paper without airspace to trap wick up stains instead of remaining on the leather surface as it dries.
    3. Peel tissue paper when crispy dry and use Eraser-4 to erase surface residue prior to fat and oil replenishing.

    Fat and Oil Replenishing:
    1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to precondition the leather prior to fat and oil replenishing.
    2. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 and redistribute with foam brush until saturation.
    3. Repeat application each time water contents evaporate until fully saturated.
    4. Drive remaining surface remnants free of milky fat and oil until it turns clear with Hydrator-3.3.
    5. Allow natural drying for extra softness.

    Dry Prep:
    1. Erase wick-up residue with Eraser-4 prior to repairs.

    Adhesion Promotion Coating:
    1. Apply Adhesor-73 by foam brush to seal surface uneven absorption rate and promote adhesion simultaneously.

    Color Coating:
    1. Apply color matching Micro-54 + 10% Thickener-48 for flow control and airbrushing for professional result.
    2. Fine dry atomize dispersion with more air is achieve with 80 to 100psi of air pressure.
    3. Light spray is preferred and let dry in between coats to build up colorcoat.

    Topcoating:
    1. Shake the product well and apply by airbrushing for professional result.
    2. Use lint free paper towel to even out drips and streaks.
    3. Speed dries between coats with help of hair dryer.
    4. 2000-grit sanding may applies to improve touch and appearance.

    Rub-Resistant Protection:
    1. Mist sprays Protector-B redistribute with a foam brush / paper towel and ready for use when dry.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Posts
    5

    Default

    I have same problem, will try this out. Thanks

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