Results 1 to 2 of 2

Thread: 2000 Mercedes Leather Questions

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Posts
    558

    Default 2000 Mercedes Leather Questions

    Hi Roger,
    I have really enjoyed reading your website and learning more about leather care.
    I would like to order a kit from you, but I'm not 100% sure what to buy.
    From reading on your page, it seems that I have top-coated, pigmented, perforated and solid leather.
    The bolsters are solid, the centers are perforated.

    I have tried to take good care of these seats, but they are 16 years old.
    The car has never been garaged.
    There are no signs of tearing, loss of dye, and only one fairly bad crease in the drivers seat, perforated portion, about 2 inches long.
    The interior is charcoal so I can't see dirt, although it is a bit shiny.
    A carwash spot applied an interior spray to the dash, it is way to shiny now and I would prefer it to be matte finished again.

    I have used Leatherique a couple of times, followed the directions etc but didn't really notice a difference.

    I have used Connolly Leather Hide food, it worked about as well as Leatherique.

    I most recently used an entire bottle over the course of two weeks of Meguiar's Leather Balm, with little effect.

    I have read on your website that sometimes you have to hydrate the leather from the back, which honestly, doesn't seem like an option for me.
    The website also seems to imply that your product works well on perforated leather without hydrating from the backside.

    I would love to restore these to as close to new as I can get without removing the leather and conditioning the back.
    All of the seats feel a little rough to the touch.
    They are also shiny and they were matte when they were new.
    This was my parent’s car, they owned since new (for 16 years).
    They both died unexpectedly a few months ago and I am trying to restore the car to as like new as affordable, as it will become my daily driver for a couple of years, then I'm planning on keeping it.


    #1 - Back seat, in pretty good condition, it just feels rough or dry
    Name:  image.jpeg
Views: 78
Size:  101.6 KB


    #2 - Front driver seat
    Name:  image 2.jpeg
Views: 77
Size:  126.8 KB


    #3 - Front driver bolster
    Name:  image 3.jpeg
Views: 74
Size:  150.5 KB


    #4 - Driver seat
    Name:  image 4.jpeg
Views: 81
Size:  138.4 KB


    #5 - Driver seat
    Name:  image 5.jpeg
Views: 74
Size:  122.4 KB
    Last edited by Questions!; 08-10-2016 at 11:51 AM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,788

    Default

    >>> From reading on your page, it seems that I have top-coated, pigmented, perforated and solid leather.
    The bolsters are solid, the centers are perforated.


    These leathers are Pigmented > Topcoated > Embossed with Perforated as an option for selected panels. Perforation provides extra sitting comfort other than aesthetic. However, with the cross section of the leather structure completely naked that expose the suede it becomes more pH and heat sensitive. Leather raw protein fiber is an amphoteric material and pH sensitive to any liquid solution that comes in contact. Alkalinity will leach out the fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil) and heat dries out the fat and oil content as well. A well maintains fat and oil level averages 15% when dry and measurable with a leather moisture meter or equivalent. Tensile strength drops below 1800psi will show signs of tear or cracks at the perforated and needle holes.


    >>> There are no signs of tearing, loss of dye, and only one fairly bad crease in the drivers seat, perforated portion, about 2 inches long.

    Unnatural creases are also signs of dryness that lacks the “fat” content that plump the fullness of leather and the “oil” content that imparts leather suppleness with strength.


    >>> The interior is charcoal so I can't see dirt, although it is a bit shiny. They are also shiny and they were matte when they were new.

    Accumulated soiling result in “a bit shiny” and will disappear with a leather-safe restorative cleaning with Prep-4.4 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 system.


    >>> A carwash spot applied an interior spray to the dash, it is way to shiny now and I would prefer it to be matte finished again.


    Any silicone shine when removed with solvent or alcohol contents cleaner often produces a blotchy cloudy effect. Complete unwanted “Armor-All” shines removal is by Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 from dashboard.


    >>> I have used Leatherique a couple of times, followed the directions etc but didn't really notice a difference. I have used Connolly Leather Hide food, it worked about as well as Leatherique. I most recently used an entire bottle over the course of two weeks of Meguiar's Leather Balm, with little effect.

    In order for products to work out the leather suppleness, it has to penetrate the leather suede structure. There are also two types of structure “conditioner” one that is stuff-in and one that works by hydrogen bonding. The down side is stuffing oils suffocates the breathing pores and produce a darkening effect. The leather is supple up from the tannery by hydrogen bonding charging the leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) and introducing ionic negative (-ve) fatliquors. Fatliquor is an emulsion of fat and oil, and when hydrogen bond the water contents breaks free or the solution becomes clear and dries creating the leather pores or breathing spaces for natural transpiration. Fatliquor-5.0 is an ionic negative (-ve) charged fatliquor in a bottle used for continuous fatliquor replenishing on a periodic interval, just like the frequent topping up of our auto engine oil.


    >>> I have read on your website that sometimes you have to hydrate the leather from the back, which honestly, doesn't seem like an option for me. I would love to restore these to as close to new as I can get without removing the leather and conditioning the back.

    The suede side is the easiest access to the thickness of the leather structure depending on situation. Due to the leather finishes, access is only possible through micro crazing and will need a towel of reservoir and evaporation control with plastic sheet to ensure that the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3 system able to penetrate through the finishes. Any of these products that stray on the surface is useless.


    >>> The website also seems to imply that your product works well on perforated leather without hydrating from the backside.

    Products get absorbed and move horizontally to the entire leather thickness much easily. Drying of fatliquor through these perforation is also more prevalent, thus will require more frequent replenishing depending on extend of damaging heat exposure.


    >>> All of the seats feel a little rough to the touch.


    Restorative cleaning, leather rejuvenating and a soft buttery-feel protection will improve the tactile-feel of the leather.

    Products system mentioned are found with this Kit-Af3 and start with “Restorative Care”

    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-af3...ther-care-kit/
    Name:  Kit-Af3.JPG
Views: 71
Size:  1.35 MB

    Restorative Care:

    Restorative care is the ultimate corrective or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners to its original OEM finishes. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Leather restorative cleaning of accumulated soiling is performed by Prep-4.4. Avoid pushing into the perforated holes unnecessary. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Its viscosity facilitates coating the surface for effective dwell time. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas. For extreme cases, the Prep-4.4 can stay continuous for up to 72 hours to do its work safely.

    1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
    1. Apply Prep-4.4 onto surface with a foam brush avoiding pushing into the holes and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
    2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
    3. Sticky residue is removed by Clean-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extraction until it shows clean.
    4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
    5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat Prep-4.4 application with a longer dwell time as necessary or proceed to hydrating.

    2nd phase – Hydrating:
    Although pigmented leathers surfaces are usually non-absorbent until micro crazing develops it is the stitching rows and perforated holes that are usually vulnerable. These weak areas when wet and dry again have the tendency for the fibrils to become stick together resulting in stiffness and when stressed may lead to premature cracks. Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure besides charging it ionic positive for more effective hydrogen bonding with the negative ionic fatliquor.
    1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
    2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes depending on severity of dryness with optional plastic cling wrapping to control evaporation for a longer dwell time to plumps the leather more effectively.

    3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
    Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed micro crazing, perforation and stitching rows. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
    1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 control and spread with foam brush to hydrate especially the stitching rows and perforated sections.
    2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
    3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
    4. Surface strays are wipe with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.

    4th phase – Preventive Care:
    1. Apply Protector-B to the seats and Protector-D to steering wheel including the gearshift knob after shaking well spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care System Formulator
    Consultant / Practitioner / Instructor
    web: www.leatherdoctor.com
    forum: www.leathercleaningrestorationforum.com
    email: roger@leatherdoctor.com

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •