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Thread: vintage KORET beautiful but dry, going to restore, this bag is awsome quality like Chanel !!!

  1. #1
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    Default vintage KORET beautiful but dry

    Name:  koret3 - Copy.JPG
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    going to restore, already started with the hydrator and fatliqour
    Last edited by cyberclick; 04-15-2017 at 06:39 PM.

  2. #2
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    looks like the dryness is already going plus puffness is coming back!!!!

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    How is the back crease lighter color lines progressing?

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    good they are getting way better, but i need more hydrator, I did order more, then I will put more on

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    >>> heres a couple more pictures of the crease, I think it looks better than the first pictures

    Did you do some physical massaging or manipulating while it was at the last stage of hydration?

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    the first time I did some massaging, this time I didnt, starting to look a little dry again, but still better than before

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    Fill the bag with coarse smooth grain sand in a soft plastic bag, easier to give it slaps or hand chops massaging when they are fully saturated will produce a better result.

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    ok, will try that, thanks

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    >>> not sure if its the old dye,

    “Dye” is transparent coloring – example Aniline-21, Aniline-76 and Bicast-76
    “Pigment” is opaque coloring – example Micro-54 and Bicast-32
    When Dye and Pigment are mixed it becomes “translucent” and is also known as “Hybrid” – example Antique-27 and 2Tone-37


    >>> but looks weird?
    Weirdness is the peeling and cracking of the finishes and refinishing is with this Kit-Sa7.cl
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-sa7...finishing-kit/
    Name:  Kit-Sa7.cl.JPG
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    Color Matching Examples see 27 to 30 of this chart –
    Name:  colorshading-21-30.jpg
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  10. #10
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    >>> is there something wrong with the leather or is it not lamb leather is it a different leather?

    Leather from (baby lamb vs adult sheep) will have degree of finest to coarseness.

    That is also why this leather is "pigment coated" to hide the not-so-beautiful-grain of the leather.

  11. #11
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    ok, thank you for the good information, I have done all the prep and just put the adhesor 73 on, letting dry, then tomorrow will dye, hopefully it wont look too fuzzy (lololol)

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    >>> What can I do to make it suede again,

    Remove all the pigment coating with Stripper-2.3 (pH 2.3 to control the suede from denaturing) follows with another round of Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3, then you may recolor it with a suede coloring system that will retain the 'finger writing effect" of the nap.

    Remove the strips from the chain and reassembly makes the work easier and less messy.

    The metal chain if there is any tarnish can be removed with CleanTarnish-1.3 as well and may be re-plated anew again!
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 04-20-2016 at 05:02 PM.

  13. #13
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    >>> well I have totally removed all pigment again

    Describe how exactly you go about removing it, look like there are still traces of pigment.

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    >>> I redyed this with suede dye about 2 weeks ago and still getting dye rub, I wipe with towel and dye still coming off, any ideas?

    May I know what products did you used?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> I redyed this with suede dye about 2 weeks ago and still getting dye rub, I wipe with towel and dye still coming off, any ideas?

    May I know what products did you used?
    I used Fiebings suede dye

  16. #16
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    Besides you mentioned that the dye still getting rub-off…

    The front picture shows poor color coverage with distortion – simply said not an even appearance.

    The backside picture shows “bronzing” with a metallic effect – a poor quality suede dye.

    How did you apply the dye, swabbing or airbrushing?

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