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Thread: Restoring Discoloured and Moldy Chippewa Leather Boots

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
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    564

    Default Restoring Discoloured and Moldy Chippewa Leather Boots

    I live in a tropical country with humid weather. Recently my boots have become moldy, and I was wondering if whether anything can be done to restore it.

    This is the boot that I bought in its original colour:

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    I have also previously conditioned the boot with Obenauf's leather preservative, and it has turned the leather dark.

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    May I know if whether there is anything I can do to:
    1. Remove the mold
    2. Restore the pull up effect

    I am not sure if whether the leather is an oil pull up or a wax pull up, but I am sure that the leather is an aniline leather.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    Hi,

    Thanks for helping me to move my question to the forum.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    >>> I live in a tropical country with humid weather. Recently my boots have become moldy,

    Here is a little description about mold . . .
    MOLD: Mold is the colloquial term applied to a large diverse number of fungal species where their growth result in a moldy appearance on objects, including leather. A layer of fungal growth discolors such objects. Molds are fungi that grow in the form of multi-cellular filaments called hyphae. The hyphae are generally transparent, so the mycelium appears like very fine, fluffy white threads over the surface. The dusty texture of many molds is caused by profuse numbers of asexual spores formed by differentiation at the ends of hyphae. The mode of formation and shape of these spores are traditionally used to classify the mold fungi. Many of these spores are colored, making the fungus much more obvious to the human eye at this stage in its life cycle. Molds cause biodegradation of natural materials like leather. It can then be unwanted as mold-damaged property. Mold requires moisture for growth. Like all fungi, molds derive energy not through photosynthesis but from the organic matter on which they live. Typically, molds secrete enzymes that degrade complex substances into simpler substances, which can be absorbed by the hyphae. Molds reproduce through producing very large numbers of small spores. Mold spores may remain airborne indefinitely or cling to leather and fur. It can survive under extremes of temperature and pressure.

    >>> and I was wondering if whether anything can be done to restore it.


    Mold in the leather industry is control by a periodic treatment of leather-safe (pH 3-5) fungicide for long-term effectiveness with product such as Leather Doctor KillMold-3.6
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/killmold-3-6/


    >>> This is the boot that I bought in its original colour: I have also previously conditioned the boot with Obenauf's leather preservative, and it has turned the leather dark. May I know if whether there is anything I can do to:
    1. Remove the mold


    Removing the mold is one aspect and long-term prevention is another. It is easy to remove the mold with wiping off, but a more physically effective method is to use a leather Eraser-4. Eraser-4 with its soft sponge removes by traction and more effectively removing clean off the surface. Accumulated soiling that attracts mold growth will also need to be removed with a restorative cleaner such as CleanPro-1.5. With a pH value of 1.5 it also discourages the growth of most mold species. And rinsing with Acidifier-2.0 helps return the leather to its original chemistry integrity especially unknown pH value products were used.


    >>> 2. Restore the pull up effect
    Pull-up effect is restored either with EffectWax-8.6 http://www.leatherdoctor.com/effectwax-8-6/
    or EffectOil-2.8
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/effectoil-2-8/
    However a holistic restoration approach is after the leather is rejuvenated with Hydrator-3.3 http://www.leatherdoctor.com/hydrator-3-3/
    > Fatliquor-5.0
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/fatliquor-5-0/
    system, then the pull-up effect is replenished as the secondary rejuvenator. In a maintenance routine or periodic care direct pull-up effect conditioning may be used as a stand alone provided that unwanted soiling are first removed.


    >>> I am not sure if whether the leather is an oil pull up or a wax pull up, but I am sure that the leather is an aniline leather.


    It looks more like a Wax then an Oil, as wax has more of a sheen than the oil. If we are not sure preferably to use the EffectWax-8.6 as some wax may be dissolved by the EffectOil-2.8.

    Products mentioned are handpicked into this Kit-Aw3.mk
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-aw3...or-killer-kit/

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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
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    [QUOTE=Roger Koh;19678]
    Mold in the leather industry is control by a periodic treatment of leather-safe (pH 3-5) fungicide for long-term effectiveness with product such as Leather Doctor KillMold-3.6
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/killmold-3-6/


    May I know if killmold 3.6 kills the mold or simply prevents it from growing after it has been removed by the leather eraser?

    Removing the mold is one aspect and long-term prevention is another. It is easy to remove the mold with wiping off, but a more physically effective method is to use a leather Eraser-4. Eraser-4 with its soft sponge removes by traction and more effectively removing clean off the surface. Accumulated soiling that attracts mold growth will also need to be removed with a restorative cleaner such as CleanPro-1.5. With a pH value of 1.5 it also discourages the growth of most mold species. And rinsing with Acidifier-2.0 helps return the leather to its original chemistry integrity especially unknown pH value products were used.

    Do you mean that instead of using clean 3.8 and then rinse 3.0, I can use cleanpro 1.5 followed by acidifier 2.0 instead? May I know what is the difference between clean 3.8 > rinse 3.0 and cleanpro 1.5 > acidifier 2.0


    It looks more like a Wax then an Oil, as wax has more of a sheen than the oil. If we are not sure preferably to use the EffectWax-8.6 as some wax may be dissolved by the EffectOil-2.8.

    The sheen may be due to the Obenauf's leather preservative that I used to waterproof the boots, as it is a beeswax based product. The original colour of my boots does not include a sheen and is more of a matte effect. May I know what is the difference between effectwax 8.6 and effectoil 2.8? (For example, oil pullup may be more subtle, scratch marks may be harder to rub off etc...?)

    Also, may I know how does your protector D+ works? Does it completely waterproofs the leather? Currently the waterproofing on my boots has worn off and the leather absorbs water that was splashed on it. I do not mind the leather absorbing water, but I find that after I waterproof the leather, it does not breath as well anymore and makes my feet sweaty and I would like to avoid that if possible.

    Thank you.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    5,102

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    >>> Do you mean that instead of using clean 3.8 and then rinse 3.0, I can use CleanPro-1.5 followed by acidifier 2.0 instead? May I know what is the difference between Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 and CleanPro-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0.

    The CleanPro-1.5 > Acidifier-2.0 system is a more heavy duty purpose both in soil removing and lower of a pH value to discourage mold growth. For a lighter cleaning you may use Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 to match soiling level too.


    >>> The sheen may be due to the Obenauf's leather preservative that I used to waterproof the boots, as it is a beeswax based product. The original colour of my boots does not include a sheen and is more of a matte effect. May I know what is the difference between EffectWax-8.6 and EffectOil-2.8? (For example, oil pull-up may be more subtle, scratch marks may be harder to rub off etc?)


    Oil would have a duller finish and goes deeper with a better waterproofing effect from within the leather structure. Waterproofing in the leather industry is defined, as not allowing the water to wet through even though the surface may appears wet. Wax is more for fashion wear that produce more surface gloss appearance and is more easily scuff because of its surface deposit. Do not forget that either oil or wax effect is the secondary conditioner for leather, the primary conditioner for leather for suppleness, tear-strength and waterproofing still depends on the fatliquor (ionic charged fat and oil). When leather structure is more saturated with fat and oil it becomes less absorbent with breathing comfort as compared with “stuffing oil” that becomes sweaty.


    >>> Also, may I know how does your protector D+ works? Does it completely waterproofs the leather? Currently the waterproofing on my boots has worn off and the leather absorbs water that was splashed on it. I do not mind the leather absorbing water, but I find that after I waterproof the leather, it does not breath as well anymore and makes my feet sweaty and I would like to avoid that if possible.


    Protector-D+ is not a waterproofing protector, it protects against sticky soiling and heals and conceals surface scuffing’s. To avoid sweaty feet, allowing leather to have its natural transpiration Fatliquor-5.0 and EffectOil-2.8 plays a more important role within the leather structure also provides a waterproofing effect. In the after market protector, the water pools on its surface after treatment, just like wearing a latex gloves, that suffocates the breathing porosity of the leather.

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