Pigmented (Mono-Tone) - cushion with heavy oils and cracking, for: "Linden"

[chet]

UUsed degreaser 2.2 and wiped with towel. How long should I leave on before using acidifier 2.0?

[Roger Koh]

Degreaser-2.2 is work with horsehair Brush-1 to go after deep where the heavy oils are below surface.

Towel extract or wiping at interval until towel shows clean.

Fresh application again deep into the leather structure after the oil and is left to dwell with evaporation control by cling wrapping it. At this point the saturated degreasing area is left to dwell overnight as long as it is kept moist otherwise replenish it to further emulsify the unwanted oil stains continuous moving up to the surface. The length of dwelling time may match the severity of oil damages accordingly.

Acidifier-2.0 is used as surface rinse and squeeze with an appropriate spatula between white cotton towel to satisfaction.

Hydrator-3.3 with its surfactant power further helps dislodge suspended oily particulates in between the structural inter-fibrillary spaces and floats them to the surface for towel extraction as one of its many functions.

[chet]

Ready to begin drying sequence. This leather has a very wrinkled texture like an elderly person that was in the sun too much. It was apparent prior to hydrating but is much more prevalent now. I misted hydrator on surface and did not get any soil like the beeker cushion, so I think this one is very clean at this stage.

Attachment 4650
Leather placed back on cushion.

Attachment 4649
close up of cracking area

Attachment 4651
Close up of wrinkled skin

Attachment 4652
I placed an air mover inside to help dry and lightly stretch leather to help get rid of winkles.
Do you have another suggestion? It might be something that would go away as is dries, but I'm unsure.

[Questions!]

Ready to begin drying sequence. This leather has a very wrinkled texture like an elderly person that was in the sun too much. It was apparent prior to hydrating but is much more prevalent now. I misted hydrator on surface and did not get any soil like the beeker cushion, so I think this one is very clean at this stage.



Leather placed back on cushion.



close up of cracking area



Close up of wrinkled skin



I placed an air mover inside to help dry and lightly stretch leather to help get rid of winkles.
Do you have another suggestion? It might be something that would go away as is dries, but I'm unsure.

[Roger Koh]

>>> It was apparent prior to hydrating but is much more prevalent now.

Please rephrase it - do you mean getting worse?

Take a close shot of an un-used areas.

>>> I placed an air mover inside to help dry and lightly stretch leather to help get rid of winkles.

Do you have another suggestion? It might be something that would go away as is dries, but I'm unsure.
As seen from the “Close up of wrinkled skin” it could be a texture fashion design – do you send samples?

[chet]

The wrinkles looked much worse when wet, like the leather was shrinking more than the pigmented finish. It was apparent prior to us doing anything, but got worse after it was saturated. I think it is now back to how it was prior to cleaning and hydrating. I'm not too concerned, other than it will be hard to duplicate that wrinkled finish in the repaired areas. They will be much smoother.

[chet]

The picture "close up of wrinkled skin" Just so you know the wrinkles are raised not sunken. Does this help to explain?

[Roger Koh]

It is possible that this is a texture design created by "embossing" at the tannery level.

Need to compare with unused areas.

If these are finishes deteriorating from lamination they would be easily removed with Razor-60 when damp.

[chet]

I don't think so. I think its a combination of the leather being slightly stretched and the foam is broken down. If I slightly stretch the leather it looks normal. So I'm going to install a thin layer of fiberfill over the foam to hold the leather taught before repairing the finish.

This leather still feels relatively strong, so I'm just going to apply a few coats of Impregnator to the suede side to strengthen it a little more.

How should I proceed with finish repair?

[Roger Koh]

>>> How should I proceed with finish repair?

1 - Use Eraer-4 for smooth to be repaired surface or Eraser-5 if is abraded of foreign soiling or deteriorated fibers that is easily removed. The deteriorated surface fibers not thoroughly removed will compromise the integrity of the repairs.
2 – The surrounding finishes is sand to remove deteriorated finishes.
3 – Bond-3D is applied with drying in between coating to level up.
4 – Deeper and weaker or thinner areas are filled with donor fiber from other areas and repairs using standard fiberglass technique.
5 – The final repairs is thoroughly sand.
6 – Adhesor-73 is scrub with scouring pad to etch the surface and any deteriorated finishes removed by wiping them off.
7 – Dry surface is sand to satisfaction prior to Micro-54 coloring system.

[chet]

followed procedure below, We finally had to use some stucco mixed with 3D and some micro-54 to fill the deep cracks. I couldn't get them to fill with 3D.
Also when we scrubbed with Adhesor the 3D came off the top coat, so we thoroughly scrubbed with adhesor and extracted with towels until the entire film of 3D was removed, we then sanded thoroughly and finished filling with mixture above. We never completely filled the cracks but it looks good.


Some of the bad areas before dying


Some of the cracks filled with stucco mixture.


finished cushion

[Roger Koh]

>>> We never completely filled the cracks but it looks good.

It is wiser to leave some existing original cracks then to have new crack developed from poor repairs.