Louis Vuitton – Vachetta Leather – Browning, Darken, Scratches

[Roger Koh]

Pictures from Rosa’s LV.


#1 – the browning on the most used part of the handle



#2 – the browning on the most used part of the handle



#3 – the zipper tab was very dark and dirty to start with.
Now it’s just dark.
Much darker than other parts of the bag.
Most-used part of the bag.



#4 – there are stains of some sort. I imagine it’s from scratches…



#5 – there are stains of some sort. I imagine it’s from scratches…

[Rosa]

Hi, Roger.
I decided to do the preventative program first.
hydrating 3.3 today
then fatliquor next
will send pic when satisfied with first step

[Roger Koh]

>>> I decided to do the preventative program first.

Preventive care here refers to the weakness of the leather structure from diminishing percentage of original fatliquor causes stiffness to the leather and when stress leads to cracking.

Diminishing of fatliquor ionic charged fat and oil moisture contents through normal usage is caused by the diminishing strength of the amphoteric leather protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) attraction with it other non-amphoteric ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor. Any alkaline solution that comes in contact with the amphoteric leather protein fiber will shift its pH negative (-ve), thus like a magnet “like poles repels” the leather denatures, stiffen and when flex or stress cracks. When leather denatures the first symptom by our sweaty hands is the feel of tackiness and upon drying starts to brown and in extreme case stiffs up and further stress or flex cracks.


>>> #2 – the browning on the most used part of the handle

The lighter color micro cracks develop when more flex is applied to the leather and quite obvious macro cracks already developed especially the edges. Leather tensile strength is also compromised as the stitching holes becomes elongated and split from original rounder stitching holes. As vachetta is unfinished leather existing cracks are best to leave them as it is.

Caution!
Preventive care in the process is not allowing further cracking the leather.
Crack prevention is avoidable when the leather is kept damp or hydrated until Fatliquor-5.0 as the last process before allowing the leather to dry. That is simply said only allows “one” time drying through out the “wet process”.
This wet processes include Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0. Knowing how these products work will help and prevent denaturing of the leather from cracks and discoloration.

1 – Acidifier-2.0 is used when the leather still feels tacky during Hydrator-3.3. Acidifier-2.0 will thus rectify and returns the tacky leather feel into a healthy squeaky feel. With a pH value of 2.0 it protonates the leather protein fiber below its iso-electric point, pH neutral or pI of averaging below pH 4 thus strengthening its ionic positive (+ve) charges. The negative (-ve) charges tanning agent and fatliquor are ionic re-attracted from reverting to rawhide. Besides rectifying the tacky feel it also lightens the browning effect when dry.

2 – Hydrator-3.3 with a pH value of 3.3 is used to relax and separate the stick together fiber within the leather structure and breaking any surface tension to facilitate Fatliquor-5.0 easier distribution for a more even appearance. With its many functions working within the leather structure, released foreign soiling contamination during the wicking process is surface clean with a white terry towel.

3 – Fatliquor-5.0 an ionic negative (-ve) charged emulsion of fat and oil with a pH value of 5.0 hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) charged leather protein fiber just like magnetic attraction of “unlike poles attracts” with a stronger an attraction the more lasting the supple effect lasts. In practice the amount of fatliquor required will depends on its existing percentage and up to 14% is recommended. Example the handles will require more with more damages than other areas. A final reading when the leather is free of other foreign contamination may be more objective; otherwise they are repeatedly replenished within an almost drying cycle or between moisture levels of 14% to 25%.

We will continue discussing degreasing and browning treatment after the above “crack preventive care”.


Note:
“crack preventive care” applies to potential cracking of denatured leather.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

[Rosa]

First, I started with the Hydrator.
I wet the leather handles several times, finally wrapping it around wet paper and plastic wrap and left it for at least 8 hours.
I used 1/2 inch in volumn of the hydrator.
I noticed the leather liked it. But the cracks are still there. Still feeling dry.
No picture to show.

Next, I used the fatliquor.
I used it several times, noticing there is tackiness where I used my Apple Cleaner the most.
I used 1/4 inch in volumn of the faliquor.
I noticed the leather became more supple. But I still see microcracks. Feels tacky at the handles.
No picture to show.

Third, I used the Acidifier.
I used it several times, especially over the tacky part where my Apple Cleaner saturated the most.
I used 1/2 inch in volumn of the Acidifer.
I noticed the tackiness is lessening. But still there is not that squeaky clean feeling when wet.
So, I left it to dry, and the leather feels squeaky clean.
But I then see I may have been over-zealous on my handles, as your product had cleaned it so well that I have two tones on the handles--please see pictures below...

[Rosa]

Picture 1 from 3.4.2015

[Rosa]

In picture 1, I am showing the lightening of my handles. It appears to be much lighter than the rest of the handles. This is where I used the most Apple Cleaner, so I used the most Acidifier to counter the tackiness.
There is still many cracks.
Should I continue with the acidifier UNTIL I get it squeaky clean when WET??? Or can I continue to a new step?

[Rosa]

Picture 2 -- deleted

Picture 3