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Thread: blood on suede coat

  1. #1
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    Default blood on suede coat

    roger, I need steps to remove old dried blood from suede coat, also soiled greasy around pockets and bottom hem.

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    Over all coat

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    close up of blood

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    Soiled bottom hem

  2. #2
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    I saturated blood spots with dProtein 11, agitated blotted. I got a slight transfer but not much. I reapplied d protein, allowed to dwell and used some peroxide, still not much. I covered with absorbe a stain to allow further dwelling and still not much removed. Do you have other suggestions?

  3. #3
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    >>> I saturated blood spots with dProtein 11, agitated blotted. I got a slight transfer but not much. I reapplied d protein, allowed to dwell and used some peroxide, still not much. I covered with absorbe a stain to allow further dwelling and still not much removed. Do you have other suggestions?

    Peroxide will “cook” the suede!

    This is a pigskin suede and pigskin is the worst when comes to stain removal as most of the stains just got into the cross section. Blood coagulates and that makes it the toughest amount stain removal.

    d’Protein-10 need to be constant applied using a dripper or plastic pipette and using a spatula or bamboo skewers to ease the protein stain out.

    The iron components is what gives the stain a rusty color and need to be further remove with d’Tarnish-1.3. This d’Tanish-1.3 has a pH value of 1.3 beyond the safety range as pH 10 for d’Protein-10. This system neutralize each other and if more of d’Tarnish-1.3 is used it is pH balance with Basifier-8.8. Absorb-a-Stain is not good for moving coagulating stains unless it is deflocculated first with d’Protein-10.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    [email protected]


    See this suede problem-solving guide for stain removal:
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    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/kit-s5-...n-remover-kit/


    Leather Doctor® Kit-S5.bs, suede bloodstain removal kit is designed to remove coagulating and rusty bloodstains. Old bloodstains do coagulates and dried bloodstains may range from tan to dark brown with an outer ring. Dried deposits are gently brushed, thereafter d’Protein-10 is applied with gentle agitation until it starts to dissolve and run. Acidifier-2.0 is use to neutralize and rinse remaining residue. d’Tarnish-1.3 continues to works on the rusty trace of the stain until naturally dry. When the stain is gone, Hydrator-3.3 follows to relax stiff leathers and remove surface tension for an even appearance. Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing rejuvenates the leather structure for suppleness when dry. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced with a rub-resistant Protector-S+ that enhances a non-stick silky-feel to shield against sticky soiling. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value for a safer bloodstain removing process on suede leathers. For fine suede, treat it as nubuck (Kit N5.bs) using nubuck Brush-2 / Eraser-4 instead.

  4. #4
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    Very little removed so far, how long can I let dProtein-11 dwell?

  5. #5
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    >>> old dried blood

    Most likely you are removing the "rust" from the iron component - use d'Tarnish-1.3 as alternative.

  6. #6
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    I have tried Tarnish 1.3 / still no result.

  7. #7
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    If you can send me samples of blood stain suede I will remove it to show you how best it is done.

    Otherwise a hands-on training class will help.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-29-2015 at 11:27 AM.

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