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Thread: Aniline (Full MonoTone) - Sun faded leather sofa and chair with dog scratches - "Kessel"

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    Default Aniline (Full MonoTone) - Sun faded leather sofa and chair with dog scratches - "Kessel"

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  2. #2
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    Am I waiting for leather color samples?

  3. #3
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    Sample received.

    Pictures look cheap but surprising the leather quality is superior to "Weissenborn"

    Same system applies with Leather Doctor Kit-A7.cl.
    It bring back more value to retain original finishes rather than to downdrage to an "opaque" finishes.

    The only consideration is the control of color, as there are scratches damages the shade may have to be compromised into a darker red to cover healing darkening marks.

    The choice of quality works should goes by

    1st choice with Transparent system with Aniline-76

    2nd choice coverup with Translucent system with Antique-27

    and the last choice is by Micro-54 system.

    Aniline leathers are build up by stages just the way the tannery does so and each phases of the sequence will bring back the color significantly and the final redyeing is just a contribution to the overall appearance. what do you think?

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    [email protected]


    AnilineTop-76G the heavy version is the recommended follows with the satin version to match original luster level.

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    Leather Doctorฎ Kit-A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system. Please email [email protected] for custom matching services or choice of color: Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue or Dark-Brown. And choice of topcoat luster: Gloss or Satin. This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus the 250ml concentrate ratio such as Acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.

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    Roger, How do you determine that this is a very good grade leather? I'm trying to make a chart or guide on how to determine what type of leather we are working on.
    I had one in the past, but it isn't accurate. I think if we could pre-determine exactly the type of leather it will be easier and safer to clean it and we will be more accurate on the proper dye to use to restore it.
    Are there other tests/ questions we can do to determine how to classify what type of leather it is, other than the questions I have below?

    1 Aniline scratch test- it doesn't scratch.
    2.Color all the way through to suede side- yes
    3.Natural grain- yes
    4.Absorbant- slightly
    5. Finger writing effect- NO

  5. #5
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    On the subject of determining leather types. is there a simple way to tell if leather is Waxed or oiled or just aniline? Best way to tell if leather is vegetable tanned. Can you list all the different categories of leather? I will start with what I know.

    Vegetable tanned
    Aniline
    Aniline oiled
    Aniline waxed
    Nubuck
    Semi aniline
    Pigmented

  6. #6
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    >>> Roger, How do you determine that this is a very good grade leather?

    Although the percentage of existing remainding fatliquor reads 1% it is more supple than the Weissenborn sample that reads 2%. Considering that an optimum fatliquor moisture contents should read up to 14%. Also taken into consideration that the thickness is almost the same for both sample at 1oz thickness.

    I believe the fading will be easily activated with Hydrator-3.3 to a great degree of improvement. Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing will also improve suppleness and color intensity to a degree. Lightening scratch effect will be tremendously improves with Adhesor-73 with both bringing back to color to the surface and smooth all abraded surfaces. Aniline-76 system therefore brings back the leather back to its originality, which retains its original value and characteristic. Thus restoring back to the original with perhaps a shade or two more to camouflage existing repairs blemishes.


    >>> Are there other tests/ questions we can do to determine how to classify what type of leather it is, other than the questions I have below?

    1 Aniline scratch test- it doesn't scratch (to a degree of fingernail scratchability depending on topcoat types and fashion effects).
    2.Color all the way through to suede side- yes
    3.Natural grain- yes
    4.Absorbant- from non absorbent to highly absorbent depending on the topcoat used.
    5. Finger writing effect- NO

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    >>> Can you list all the different categories of leather?

    A - Vegetable tanned
    A1 – Vegetable-Tanned (V) – naked unfinished
    A2 – Vegetable-Tanned (V.a) – aniline dyed with urethane topcoat finishes.
    A3 – Vegetable-Tanned (V.p) – pigmented system finishes.
    A4 – Vegetable-Tanned (V.t) – urethane topcoat finishes.

    B – Aniline
    B1 – Aniline (A) – Urethane Topcoat Finishes - like Weissenborn and Kessel – Does not fingernail scratch easily.
    B2 – Anilnie (A.g) - Glazed – like Partrich – Fingernail scratch easily
    B3 – Aniline (A.wp) – Wax Pull-Up – like Spradlin & Jaques – When pull lightens up
    B4 – Aniline (A.w) – Waxed – like Williams – Fingernail scratch easily without the lightening pull-up effect.
    B5 – Aniline (A.op) – rarely found used for upholstery - commonly used for waterproofing shoes.

    C – Nubuck
    C1 – Nubuck (N) - The reverse side of nubuck is suede – also known as velvet suede – with finer than suede naps.

    D - Semi Aniline
    D1 – Aniline (A.s) – Aniline dye through with micro-pigmented finishes.

    E – Pigmented
    E1 – Pigmented (P) – The suede side is not colored but usually could be from raw vegetable-tanned or chrome-tanned.
    E2 – Pigmented (P.s) – Pigmented finishes system over non-leather material.
    E3 – Pigmented (P.t) – A translucent finishes system over the primary monotone pigmented finishes.

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    We cleaned, rinsed, hydrated and fat liquored today. covered with plastic and rehydrate and fat liquored worse areas again and recovered in plastic. It does look like some color is restoring. We will rehydrate and fat liquor again tomorrow. We have plenty of time while we wait for dye to arrive.

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    Learn to use a leather moisture meter or a simple wood moisture meter, will make you work more predictable.

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    Letting the leather dry out after several days of hydrator and fatliquor applications and keeping wrapped in plastic. After it is dry, you want us to sponge on adhesor and wipe it off with paper towels correct? And we should apply adhesor everywhere, correct?

    I will send a few pictures Monday after it dries over the weekend.

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    After hydrate and fat liquor, a lot of color has come back. Still needs to dry overnight just to see how much.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    >>> After it is dry, you want us to sponge on adhesor and wipe it off with paper towels correct?

    Adhesor-73 is a multifunction products and is used according while it fits best.
    a) Removing Deteriorated Existing Finishes.
    b) Abraded Surfaces Repairs.
    c) Activate Aniline Dyestuff.
    d) Ensure Proper Sealing and Adhesion Promotion.


    >>> And we should apply adhesor everywhere, correct?

    To apply Adhesor-73 everywhere is for function of Sealing and Adhesion Promotion purposes.

    Instruction for various function is as follows:

    A) Removing Deteriorated Existing Finishes:
    1. Shake well, apply to surface and work with horsehair Brush-1, scouring white pad and optional fine 1500/2000grit sanding as appropriate and wipe until white lint-free towel shows clean.

    B) Abraded Surfaces Repairs:
    1. Shake well; apply direct or with appropriate brush and wipe off excess.
    2. Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.
    3. When almost dry compress with a smooth object (leather spatula or a teaspoon).
    4. Remove surface build-up with 1000/2000grit sandpaper.

    C) Activate Aniline Dyestuff:
    1. Scratched or worn areas of aniline and semi-aniline leathers color may be activated when applying Adhesor-73 to improves appearance.
    2. Darkening areas is stretch with a smooth spatula or spoons.
    3. Remove surface build-up with 1000/2000grit sandpaper.

    D) To Ensure Proper Sealing and Adhesion:
    1. Shake well; spread evenly with horsehair Brush-1 or scouring white pad to work into grooves and worn areas, excess is wipe away with a lint-free towel or until the towel shows clean.
    2. Let dry naturally or speed dry with blow dryer.
    3. Darkening areas is stretch with a smooth spatula or spoons to improve appearance.

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    Fully dried over weekend. I started applying adhesor, lightly scrubbing with white 3m pad and wiping off excess with paper towel. Some color returned in most areas. on lighter worn areas, I reapplied adhesor, let it soak in longer and then wiped off excess, trying to pull more color to surface. It appears to have helped a little.

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    Before adhesor

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    After adhesor

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    before adhesor close up

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    After adhesor close up of worse area. Should I have used Impregnator instead on this area, as soon as I applied adhesor I noticed how badly damaged it really was. I only applied adhesor 1 time, I'm not sure how you want me to proceed on this area? this area feels a little rough, and a lot of grain was worn away from the dog scratching.

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    Here is a small blemish/ damaged spot that I noticed when applying adhesor, again should I have used impregnator before adhesor? Once I got it wet with adhesor, I used a plastic spatula and worked the raised areas down.

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    I haven't done anything with this light scratch, how should I proceed with it?

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    The seat cushions on the sofa have many light scratches, not as bad as the one pictured above, just checking how we should proceed here too.

  13. #13
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    Roger, what is the difference between Adhesor and impregnator?

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    >>> Roger, what is the difference between Adhesor-73 and Impregnator-26?

    Impregnator-26 is developed for one purpose that is for impregnating structure weakness that has been over-stretched or worn damaged.
    This product is for below surface while Adhesor-73 is for above surface.

    Here’s the product description and instruction:
    Leather Doctorฎ Impregnator-26 is developed for structural weakness on pigmented; semi-aniline and aniline smooth leather types. This is a protein compact resin-blend compound for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks. It is to seal, strengthen and levelling out uneven absorption for further coating process. It fills and tightens with good levelling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance.

    Instruction:

    1 - Shake well; horsehair Brush-1 to saturate all weak, overstretched and highly absorbent damaged areas.
    2 - Concentrate on weak areas otherwise wipe off unnecessary excess to prevent build-up.
    3 - Sand off surface excess when dry with 1000/2000grit sandpaper.
    4 - Proceed with Adhesor-73.


    >>> Here is a small blemish/ damaged spot that I noticed when applying Adhesor-73, again should I have used impregnator before Adhesor-73? Once I got it wet with Adhesor-73, I used a plastic spatula and worked the raised areas down.


    This looks like a small filling repair that will require a higher viscosity product like Bond-3D and to further increase the viscosity Bond-5C is mixed in equal portion. To improve repairs matching color dyestuff is added for appearance. This repair types becomes super tough and will need Bond-7A to smoothen out while the repairs is curing otherwise it will be tough to melt down the mixed even with Bond-7A. This bonding repairs will not crack, unlike using Stucco-90 that is easier to work with but may not be able to withstand stress and flexes in high used areas, thereafter proceed with Adhesor-73.


    >>> I haven't done anything with this light scratch, how should I proceed with it?

    Bringing up color may be done with Adhesor-73 after leather rejuvenating.
    Thereafter leveling up the scratch may need Bond-3D + Bond-5C + Bond-7A system as described above follows with Adhesor-73


    >>> The seat cushions on the sofa have many light scratches, not as bad as the one pictured above, just checking how we should proceed here too.

    Adhesor-73 is done to activate color to the surface.
    If the leather structure is too loose – Impregnator-26 below surface may help to improve “hand” of leather from weakness. Repairs as necessary with Bond-3D + Bond-5C + Bond-7A system as described above follows with Adhesor-73 accordingly.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-03-2015 at 10:23 AM.

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    Bond 5C- is it a newer product. Not in my product/ price list. Is it a liquid or paste?

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    >>> Bond 5C- is it a newer product. Not in my product/ price list. Is it a liquid or paste?

    Bond-5C is first Beta tested doing a very delicate repair to this 1967 Mercedes leather to cut time and easier handling with increase tackiness for hold-down and added acrylic strength to the urethane Bond-3D. Both have about the same viscosity but when mixed together gels up for better tackiness and control. You may see both products in used from Post#34 of this thread.

    http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...-leather-seats

    The three bonding products Bond-3D + Bond-5C + Bond-7A works as a system and can be found in this on-line store - http://www.leatherdoctor.com/bonding/


    Product Description:

    Leather Doctorฎ Bond-5C is used in combination with Bond-3D in equal parts to produce a tackier mixed for easier application control with added strength for a stronger bond especially for rips and tears. This waterbased medium soft acrylic resin when mixed with Bond-3D works in conjunction with any leather, synthetic or fine metallic mesh as sub-patch.
    A. Rip, Tear and Cut Through Repairs Instruction:
    A rip, tear and cut through repairs utilize a leather or equivalent sub-patch and this is bonded suede side to suede side.
    A1 - Where tension causes the leather to open, it is stretch back to an overlapping position with some physical help.
    A2 - Preferably a leather sub-patch is bonded to one side first to cure prior to bonding the other side to reduce the overlapping effort. Overlapping tension is removed after both sides bonding cures.
    A3 - This is a slow drying product thus a blower may come helpful to speed up the drying process.
    A4 - The bonding process will require the bond to cure for tension strength, thus holding the rip in position until fully cured is necessary.
    A5 - Vertical filling gap may be done with added matching coloring for aesthetic.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-03-2015 at 10:51 AM.

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    Sofa and chair look awesome, but a few areas where there were excessive light scratches feel a little rough. How should we proceed? They might loosen up when ussed but i would like them to feel as good as they look.

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    Lower back, and little on seat

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    also this seat on sofa

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    In hind sight, we should have reduced Aniline-76 with clear-76. They would have been closer to original color and texture. They are a deeper red than they should be. They do look and feel good though.

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    final pictures

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  19. #19
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    Working with “transparent” coating dyestuff is not like working with “opaque” coloring - “what you see is what you get” as each coating will saturate the color intensity. Thus a fine-tuning test out of the color is achieve with cutting with Aniline-76 Clear at 25%, 50% or 75% to control end result desired color saturation.

    Roger Koh
    [email protected]

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    Roger, is Aniline-76 clear the same as a Top coat?

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    Aniline-76 Clear is a colorless dyestuff to cut or mix with the other Aniline-76 color range.

    Topcoat is AnilineTop-76G(gloss) or S (satin) - heavy duty - gloss is stronger than satin, thus always use first prior to luster adjustment with satin - airbrushing application.

    Standard Topcoat is AnilineTop-21G or S design more for foam or bristle or padding application reducing drips and streaks.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-17-2015 at 11:09 AM.

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