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Thread: Hermes - Amazonia - Repair, Restore and Redye

  1. #1
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    Default Hermes - Amazonia - Repair, Restore and Redye

    I had bought this preowned Hermes Amazonia and am hoping to fix this. Amazonia is a rubber coated canvas and I had cleaned it with a Leather Doctor Aniline cleaner, followed with a rinse. I am showing before and after pictures.

    Before:
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    The bag has dried out more, the brown color has returned but the areas of wear are still present (yellow)

    Can this still be salvaged?

    Thanks
    Last edited by Zippy14u; 10-21-2014 at 05:39 PM.

  2. #2
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    >>> The bag has dried out more.

    I am not familiar with the cause of “rubber coated canvas” drying out, but it must be the plasticizers that have diminishes through time just like the fat liquor for leathers.


    >>> Cracks

    Cracks is filled up with Stucco-90 + Bond-3D + Dyestuff for added flexibility and aesthetic.


    >>> the brown color has returned but the areas of wear are still present (yellow).

    Restoration with color refinishing can be achieved with either transparent “coating” Aniline76 or translucent “coating” Antique-27.


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    Leather Doctor Leather Stucco-90
    Leather Doctor® Leather Stucco-90 is design for leather filling repairs or working in conjunction with leather Bond-3D, colors and dyes. This is a waterbased high concentrated compact resin blend leather stucco.


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    Leather Doctor Leather Bond-3D (30ml)
    Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.


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    Leather Doctor Aniline-76
    Aniline-76 is a transparent dyestuff design for coating over existing topcoat. This lively and brilliant new generation aqueous dyestuff provides a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes. To stain directly into leather with no impeding topcoat use Aniline-21 instead.
    Use AnilineTop-21 (standard) or AnilineTop-76 (heavy duty) thereafter to seal dyestuff from crocking or bleeding that also decides the luster with either gloss or matte, or a mix for a satin luster. Brush or pad application use AnilineTop-21 to reduce streaking. Airbrushing use AnilineTop-76 to reduce flows or drips.
    Nine (9) standard colors are available for direct application and for creating a secondary or tertiary color to match.
    The popular Antique-Brown is an example of a mix of one part Orange, Red-Brown and Dark-Brown.


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    Leather Doctor Antique-27
    Leather Doctor® Antique-27 is a water-based compact resin blend translucent hybrid dyestuff design for antiquing leathers to create a secondary, two-tone or an old English leather antique effect. Two-tone wipe effect is created when dry by the use of Adhesor-73 as a mean to rub-off the tip or grain to produce a lightening effect. MicroTop-54 luster choice of gloss, satin or matte seals the color coating and Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick, rub-resistant buttery-feel protection against wear with a classic leather scent.
    Popular colors are available in Black, Chestnut, Burgundy and Tan.


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    Leather Doctor Kit A7.cl – Aniline Leather Dye Refinishing Kit
    Leather Doctor® Kit A7.cl, aniline leather dye refinishing kit is designed for dyestuff and topcoat refinishing from the simple sunlight fading to the severely sweat damages from body oil and grease. Most severely penetrated, prolonged and neglected stains show a darkening effect with a sticky feel have its topcoat and dyestuff probably deteriorated by the sweat. When the stain feels sticky, it is a sign of leather denaturing and reverting to rawhide from breaking of bonds with the tanning agent. When sign of color is transfer to a white towel, it indicates that the dyestuff has also break bonds with the protein fiber. When leather is stiff or shows signs of whitish residue migrating, it shows that the fatliquor is breaking bonds as well with the protein fiber. The main component of the leather protein fiber is amphoteric while the other constituents are not; shifting of the pH mainly caused from sweat to alkalinity affects the pH imbalance. To revert from denaturing into rawhide prior to topcoat refinishing, contaminated alkaline soiling is removed with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies greasy contamination besides controlling dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Custom redyeing commences prior to topcoat refinishing. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery-feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline leathers dyestuff and topcoat refinishing system.
    Please email info@leatherdoctor.com for custom matching services or choice of color: Antique-Brown, Black, Yellow, Orange, Red, Red-Brown, Rubine, Blue or Dark-Brown.
    And choice of topcoat luster:
    Gloss or Satin
    This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus the 250ml concentrate ratio such as Acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    roger@LeatherDoctor.com
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

  3. #3
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    The Hermes rubber coated canvas is said to be a latex material. This has now been discontinued due to it's problems. But is still one I feel worth saving. Since I have already gone over the bag (cleaning/rinsing), I noticed that you mention using the degreaser and acidifier, products I already have. Should I start over with this?

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    >>> Should I start over with this?

    What do you wish to achieve - a complete restoration colour refinishing?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> Should I start over with this?

    What do you wish to achieve - a complete restoration colour refinishing?
    I would like to repair the surface damage first. I think that is the worst of it. Once that is done, I would do the rest

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    Prior to repairs you need to do a restorative cleaning.

    Restorative cleaning is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 (tacky control) system.

    Repair is a combination system with Stucco-90 + Bond-3D + Dyestuff.

    Redyeing system is done with Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 (transparent coating) > AnilineTop-21/76 gloss or satin to match.

    Protection is done with Protector-B+

    If you show pictures of your progress I will help you along the way.

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    "Restorative cleaning is done with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 (tacky control) system, Adhesor-73 > Aniline-76 (transparent coating) > AnilineTop-21/76, Protector-B+"
    I already have these products (A7.cl)
    Is this enough to get me started?
    Last edited by Zippy14u; 10-22-2014 at 02:49 PM.

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    Supply is always available.

    you may start out on one of the side panel for comparison before you continue to other panels.

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    I have completed the restorative cleaning (Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0). After each application, I wipe with a clean cloth and repeat till the cloth is clean. I can clearly see how bad the cracking is now...Name:  2014-10-28 09.57.50.jpg
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  10. #10
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    A crackle effect gives character.

    I would leave it alone, but strengthen it up with Adhesor-73 - a few coating prior to Aniline-76 system.

    Tips:

    Add some Aniline-76 into the Adhesor-73 to give it a colouring with better aesthetic.

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    That sounds great (won't have to wait for the stucco or the bond) Should I still use the stripper prior to the Adhesor?

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    The first pictures shows a savage look and not a mono-tone look.

    Using the stripper may weakens the latex or rubber coating, avoid using it and go for a wild look!

    Tip:
    You may hand brush the Aniline-76 to even out the drastic colour difference so if any.

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    Finished with the Degreaser and Acidifier. The bag is softer, more flexible.

    Oh, also, prior to adding color, should I:

    Apply the Hydrator and Fatliquor?

    How much Adhesor should I add to the Aniline 76?

    What Protector should I use?
    Last edited by Zippy14u; 10-28-2014 at 02:39 PM.

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    >>> should I: Apply the Hydrator and Fatliquor?

    No, this is not leather!

    1. Apply Adhesor-73 with a little colour added for the first 2 to 3 coating to seal it.

    Show pictures before the next step.

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    How many drops of color to Adhesor-73 (2-3)?

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    It is just for colouring the plain Adhesor-73 for aesthetic reason not more than 10%, otherwise you have diluted the strength.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    It is just for colouring the plain Adhesor-73 for aesthetic reason not more than 10%, otherwise you have diluted the strength.
    Will start this in the morning, thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zippy14u View Post
    Will start this in the morning, thanks
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    I applied 1 coat of the adhesion-73. The texture feels smoother. I can see some change, though I may have to add more coats.
    Last edited by Zippy14u; 10-30-2014 at 09:31 AM.

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    Any texture roughness can be sand with 1500/2000grit in between drying.

    Continue to show pictures of your progress.

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    Starting to look promising
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    Continue to work on the rough and crack areas with Adhesion-73 to your utmost satisfaction for structure first before going into Aniline-76.

    Let me know if you have finish with Adhesion-76, I will give some tips on the dyeing process.

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    Let me know if you have finish with Adhesion-76, I will give some tips on the dyeing process.[/QUOTE]

    A lot of the cracks have smoothed out, some cracks still look rough with a smooth texture. This might be the best I can do. Will do one more application to see if it changes (the rougher areas) If not, it will be the best I can do.

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    [QUOTE=Roger Koh;16455]Continue to work on the rough and crack areas with Adhesion-73 to your utmost satisfaction for structure first before going into Aniline-76.

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    >>> A lot of the cracks have smoothed out, some cracks still look rough with a smooth texture. This might be the best I can do. Will do one more application to see if it changes (the rougher areas) If not, it will be the best I can do.

    Severe cracks will require repairs from a combination of Bond-3D + Stucco-90 + Anilne-76 – mixed up, fill-up, and level up with a plastic card and wipe off surface excess. Repeat each time as the water contents evaporates and the filling shrinks. When all smooth out (sanding with 1500/2000 grit), Adhesor-73 application will seal and balance out the absorbency rate ready for Aniline-76.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    >>> A lot of the cracks have smoothed out, some cracks still look rough with a smooth texture. This might be the best I can do. Will do one more application to see if it changes (the rougher areas) If not, it will be the best I can do.

    Severe cracks will require repairs from a combination of Bond-3D + Stucco-90 + Anilne-76 – mixed up, fill-up, and level up with a plastic card and wipe off surface excess. Repeat each time as the water contents evaporates and the filling shrinks. When all smooth out (sanding with 1500/2000 grit), Adhesor-73 application will seal and balance out the absorbency rate ready for Aniline-76.
    Finished with the Adhesion-76. Finally have the Bond-3D + Stucco-90 + Anilne-76 to work on the rough and cracked areas. Will wait for how to instucitons.
    Last edited by Zippy14u; 01-17-2015 at 11:00 AM.

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    >>> A lot of the cracks have smoothed out, some cracks still look rough with a smooth texture. This might be the best I can do. Will do one more application to see if it changes (the rougher areas) If not, it will be the best I can do.

    Severe cracks will require repairs from a combination of Bond-3D + Stucco-90 + Anilne-76 – mixed up, fill-up, and level up with a plastic card and wipe off surface excess. Repeat each time as the water contents evaporates and the filling shrinks. When all smooth out (sanding with 1500/2000 grit), Adhesor-73 application will seal and balance out the absorbency rate ready for Aniline-76.


    >>> Will wait for how to instucitons.


    See above

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    Do I mix an equal measure of each? (Bond-3D + Stucco-90 + Anilne-76) I ran out of the Adhesion-73, will Bond 7A work instead?

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    Adhesor-73 is also for working over the repairs prior to Aniline-76 system.

    Bond-7A when mixed with Bond-3D gives a better tacky mixed, they can then be mixed with stucco to provide more body and the color Aniline-76 provides a camouflaging repairs at the same time. They are all mixable depends on the desired repairs.

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    Finally got around to smoothing out the cracks ( Bond-7A mixed with Bond-3D/Stucco) I didn't realize how bad the cracks were (wow). Am ready for the dyeing process. I will be using a sprayer.
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    Tips:

    Color is recommended to be added to the repair compound to eliminate the color contrast.

    A "transparent" dyestuff will not be able to cover and even out the appearance.

    Prior to color application, the repair is also sand smooth to the finger touch.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-09-2015 at 10:02 AM.

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    Did you overlooked my earlier post regarding adding color to the repair "the color Aniline-76 provides a camouflaging repairs at the same time".

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    Sorry if I overlooked the remark regarding adding color. Can I still fix this?

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    Not too late!

    Try sanding off excess and rough edges of the repairs.

    Color should be added until the repair is barely seen.

    Until then it will make an easier color all over.

    Do not forget if you are using "transparent" dyestuff like Aniline-76, the base will still show through.

    Alternatively is to use an "opaque" coloring like matching Micro-54 to cover up any coloring that blend in and feather out seamlessly prior to Aniline-76 system to the overall appearance

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    Default Repair coverage

    Sanded the rough edges as much as I could. (have used up all the Bond 3D/7A) Checked the Micro-54 but didn't see anything that would match the brown. The color of the bag with the repairs made is now a dark chocolate brown (almost black)
    Attached Images Attached Images   

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    >>> Sanded the rough edges as much as I could. (have used up all the Bond 3D/7A) Checked the Micro-54 but didn't see anything that would match the brown.

    Preparation work at this stage is to get the bag close to one color for an even appearance otherwise it may show through with transparent dyestuff, a tremendous improvement!


    >>> The color of the bag with the repairs made is now a dark chocolate brown (almost black).


    The final color is determined after preparation work to achieve an even color; thereafter color medium choice will determine the final outcome. Working with “transparent” dyestuff will finally bring back home to black. For a better color control an opaque Micro-54 may be mixed with equal parts of transparent Aniline-76 to produce a “translucent” effect thus a desired color may be achieve half way home from black.

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