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Thread: 2010 King Ranch Leather

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Zebulon, NC
    Posts
    3

    Default 2010 King Ranch Leather

    I am interestred in your products to repair my leather seats in my King Ranch.

    When compaired to some of the other King Ranch seats you have helped, my problem is minor. I have some general wear (normal in and out), elbow marks (discoloration) on the console, and cracks (and discoloration on the top of the steering wheel.

    I need your advise as to what products or kit I need to repir and seal the leather. I am trying to keep my seats from looking like some I have seen on your forum.

    I guess the first things you need are pictures. I will send some when I get home today if it is agreeable.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,788

    Default

    Thanks,

    Sure we wait for your pictures!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Zebulon, NC
    Posts
    3

    Default

    Here are the pictures.


    #1
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    #2
    Name:  Console 2.jpg
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    #3
    Name:  Console 1.jpg
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    #4
    Name:  Console 3.jpg
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    #5
    Name:  LF 1.jpg
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    #6
    Name:  LF Lower  Seat.jpg
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    #7
    Name:  LF Lower Seat2.jpg
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    #8
    Name:  LF Lower Seat3.jpg
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    #9
    Name:  LF Lower Seat4.jpg
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    #10
    Name:  LF Seat.jpg
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    Please advise.

    Frank Cooley

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,788

    Default

    >>> elbow marks (discoloration) on the console,

    Referring to your picture #2 & #3 looks like the finishes is damaged through and cracks appears on the edge of the seam. Sweat is the main culprit for this type of damages that cracks the leather. Leather protein fiber is an amphoteric material and is pH sensitive. Sweat contains traces of urea and when ferments may shift the pH to as high as 10 that is where we get the ammonia smell. This shifting of the pH value of the sweat weakens the ionic attraction between the cationic or ionic positive (+ve) protein fiber and its non-amphoteric anionic or ionic negative (-ve) leather constituents like the tanning agents, dyestuff and the fatliquor. The breaking of the hydrogen bonding between the protein fiber and the dyestuff results in bleeding when wipe with a wet white terry towel if the leather is aniline dyed, tacky or sticky when the tanning agent breaks bond that preserves the leather from reverting to rawhide and the breaking of bond between the fatliquor results in stiffness and when flexed cracks the leather.

    Preventive routine maintenance includes removing and neutralizing the sweat with Rinse-3.0 with a pH value of 3.0.

    Sticky issue may be rectified with protonating and neutralizing with Acidifier-2.0 with a pH value of 2.0.

    Restorative cleaning, leather rejuvenating and refinishing are the only solution to return the suppleness and appearance. Sending me a slice of leather sample will help determine the leather finish type and facilitate a color matching for refinishing.


    >>> and cracks

    Any cracks have to be first soften up otherwise any repairs will continue leads to cracks when flexed or stressed.
    A thorough Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system has to rejuvenate for suppleness with softness and strength to withstand normal usage. A stronger repair is done with Stucco-90 + Bond-3D + Micro-54 (matching color). Thereafter decide on what color system best match existing condition.

    Tips on refinishing:
    Aniline coloring is a “transparent” system and bring out he beauty of the grain, however it will also shows the blemishes. Pigmented coloring is “opaque” and cheapen the beauty of the grain unless we want to hide the blemishes and is the last resort for appearance cover-up. A “translucent” hybrid may be the best between and this is achieved with a blend of pigment and aniline dyestuff. We can decide when you send me a sample.


    >>> and discoloration on the top of the steering wheel.


    Let me know which picture we should be viewing.


    >>> When compaired to some of the other King Ranch seats you have helped, my problem is minor. I have some general wear (normal in and out),

    Picture #5 show finishes wear, the clear topcoat is wear out, that show the leather crust. In most aniline leathers when the thickness of the leather is dyed through, the dormant or excess dyestuff if any may be activated by Hydrator-3.3 system to resurface just like putting hot water on dry tea leaves to activate the coloring. Thereafter Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing will refresh the color to a degree and Topcoat-21G magnifies and amplifies the coloring, only when the result is not satisfactory that a new coloring with Aniline-76 > Aniline-21G/76G is initiated.

    Picture #10 abrasion may be suede that is able to detect the surface damages with finger touch and in order to smooth up the skin Adhesor-73 is used for such skin repair. It may take on a darker appearance than existing coloring that is why the coloring types comes in should it be opaque, translucent or transparent will decide the appearance outcome. Other consideration is to have it all in a darker tone or shade to camouflage the damage repairs with transparent dyestuff rather than opaque or in-between “translucent”.

    Pictures #8 & #9 shows perforated rows are forming creases along the lineal rows, suggest that the leather is very dry and stiff, thus when pressure is exerted the weak creases becomes like hinges and carrying all the load. A supple leather will distribute the load equally through the leather panel with unequal distributing of. It is still time to improve the stiffness with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system restoring the leather back to original suppleness with softness and strength from cracking.

    System products mentioned are found in this Kit K7.tc, color is yet to be determined, Aniline-76 in transparent, Micro-54 in opaque or a hybrid between the two to produce a translucent effect.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    info@leatherdoctor.com




    Name:  a2079201464b3f7ad1d2cf_m.JPG
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    Leather Doctor Kit K7.tc – King Ranch Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit
    Leather Doctor® Kit K7.tc, King Ranch leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for periodic maintenance to bring up appearance to a higher level of acceptance. Leather is subject to friction wearing and becomes evident as accidental scratch; scuff and abrasion to deteriorating from greasy sweat stains. A preventive measure to reduce topcoat wearing is by a routine application of Protector-B+, which imparts a natural buttery-feel and cuts friction noise that translates to less friction wear thus prolongs the wear of the topcoats from sliding in and out of seats. Prior to application of topcoat the leather surface should be free of stains or surface contamination to be sensible otherwise both the beauty of the grain and the beast of the blemishing stains will be magnify or amplify through as well.
    Corrective or restorative cleaning is the first process and typically degreasing is the basic as otherwise any greasy surface may be a detrimental to topcoat lasting adhesion. Degreaser-2.2 with a pH of 2.2 takes beyond surface degreasing is also design for deep penetrated body oil, grease and sweat. Its pH value helps stabilize the leather chemistry integrity by protonating the protein fiber ionic more positive (+ve) while degreasing takes place simultaneously. Acidifier-2.0 is the recommended rinse with a pH value of 2.0 acts as a bleeding controller eliminating any rings when the leather dries. Suspended body contamination within the leather structure that still produces a darkening effect may need the help of Hydrator-3.3 to moves the colloid within the inter fibrillary spaces through consecutive wicking process by stretchable paper towel reverse transfer technique. This proven technique allows the soiling particulates to be trapped by the paper towel to be peel off when crispy dry then still remaining on the leather surface. An inspection with Eraser-4 removing any surface wick-up soiling will decide its readiness to proceed with top coating. Other soiling and stains such as blue jean dye, leather belt, plastic ink print, newsprint, ballpoint ink, stamp pad ink, sticky label residue, crayon, chewing gum, silicone shine, permanent marker or accumulated soiling may require the attention of Prep-4.4 to do the lubricating, penetrating and suspending action follows with Clean-3.0 to removes the sticky residue and Rinse-3.0 to rinse to a healthy squeaky clean. Other stain types may need matching solution such as protein stain and tanning stains, etc. Until all stains are taken care of that the renewal of topcoat becomes practical, otherwise camouflaging dyestuff need to come into play.
    Sun fading is inevitable or unavoidable due to UV sensitivity of aniline dyestuff, besides the loss of color; heat affects fatliquor by escalating evaporation thus diminishes the intensity of the color appearance as well. However activating the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure to resurface and replenishing of the fatliquor for color intensity as well correct color loss to a degree. The activating of the dormant dyestuff is done with saturating Hydrator-3.3 up to 72 hours with control evaporation using cling wrapper thereafter replenishing of the fatliquor follows with consecutive evaporating cycle until saturate and leave for natural drying for extra softness. Any surface residue is drive-in with Hydrator-3.3 to a healthy squeaky feel, let dry and surface is dry prepared with Eraser-4 prior to top coating.
    AnilineTop-83G, gloss is used first to amplify or magnify the color intensity with drying and optional sanding in between coats of roughness to satisfaction prior to adjusting its luster level with AnilineTop-83S satin or a mix between to have a custom gloss. Application is done with lint free towel, foam brush or airbrushing for professional result.
    A choice of protector with scentless Protector-D for steering wheel and shift gear with a draggy non-slip grip, while classic leather scented Protector-B+ a non-stick, rub-resistant protector imparts a buttery-feel, reduces noises that translate to less friction wear from sliding in and out of seats or a mix of both for individual preferences.
    This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus the 250ml concentrate ratio such as Clean-3.8, Rinse-3.0, Acidifier-2.0, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use. Note the suffix number denotes the product pH value.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    Zebulon, NC
    Posts
    3

    Default

    I have ordered your recommended kit.

    I am including the steering wheel picture.
    Attachment 3606

    Where is the best place for me to get the leather sample you have requested? I assume your are suggesting that I cut a sample from my seat. I will need an address to send it to. Name:  steering wheel 1.jpg
Views: 305
Size:  227.6 KB

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
    4,788

    Default

    >>> I am including the steering wheel picture.

    The sweat has causes damages to the finishing and dried up the leather structure.
    Same situation as the “elbow marks (discoloration) on the console.
    Recommended restoration includes the following process:

    1: Degreasing:
    Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0 > Acidifier-2.0 > Hydrator-3.3

    2: Leather Rejuvenaing:
    Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3

    3: Dry Preparation:

    4: Sealer & Adhesion Coating:

    5: Coloring (matching system):

    6: Topcoating:

    7: Protection:


    >>> Where is the best place for me to get the leather sample you have requested? I assume your are suggesting that I cut a sample from my seat.


    Probably the back seat could be removed in most cases and you trim a slice from under excess.


    >>> I will need an address to send it to.

    Send sample to this link:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ing/Categories

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