Caring for high-end dress shoes

[patrickBOOTH]

Thank you. Can you answer numbers 3, 4, 6, and 7?

[patrickBOOTH]

Still wondering if Clean, Rinse, Hydrator are all necessary products for simple care of leather shoes. I am thinking I might only need one, or two of those products in addition to fatliquor. If Hydrator has a ph of 3.3 could this just be used to clean off some water marks if exposed to rain water? Is the clean and rinse step only for much more soiled types of situations? Also, can I polish over these application with regular shoe polish that contains coconut oil, carnauba, beeswax, and d-limonene?

[Roger Koh]

>>> Hi Roger, I placed my order, but I still have a few outstanding questions.

I have to assume that most of your shoes are aniline with a gloss or satin finish.
We will use this Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference.





>>> Are there conditions where both Clean and Rinse should be used one after the other, or are there conditions I can only use one. For example, for just routine maintenance vs. getting caught walking a long time in the rain?

In the above guide you see the severity of soiling or problems is horizontal and the solution to the problem in sequence is in vertical column. In the light routine maintenance Clean-3.8 is follow after with Rinse-3.0. And in routine pH neutralizing Rinse-3.0 alone is used. In a water stain or damaged situation Clean-3.8 is used as option while Acidifier-2.0 is used to neutralize alkaline solution overexposure that results in browning rings or marks. Hydrator-3.3 is used to further bring penetrated foreign soiling from inside the leather structure to the surface by “reverse transfer” technique.


>>> Same question goes for both Hydrator and Fatliquor?

Hydrator-3.3 is a multi functional product and in a water damaged situation facilitates colloidal water movement from the inter-fibrillary spaces bring up or wicking foreign particulates. The secondary function is preconditioning the leather protein fiber protonating it to strengthen it positive (+ve) ionic attraction with the other leather constituents especially for the Fatliquor-5.0 to effectively hydrogen bond with the leather protein fiber to impart fullness with its fats, lubricates the internal fiber structure so that each will slide over one another smoothly without breaking it thus prevents stiffness and cracking.


>>> If nothing comes into contact with my shoes, other than just wearing them and brushing them before and after wear how often should I do the Hydrator -> Fatliquor treatment?

A well lubricated shoe both the outside and the inside leather lining will make the shoe very comfortable to wear.
When a shoe is too dry it tightens, feel stiff and when flex will leads to cracks. When a shoe is well lubricated with Fatliquor-5.0 the shoe is more elastic and stretchable thus more comfortable to wear.


>>> Do I need to use both in this case?

It is always recommended that the leather protein fiber is first relaxed and protonated prior to effective Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing. Other function of Hydrator-3.3 is to reduce surface tension. The external surface of the shoe is first hydrated to ensure that it has an even appearance prior to fatliquor replenish it. To ensure that the fatliquor will have a good distribution with even absorbent rate without steaks, marks or rings.


>>> Will using a beeswax and coconut oil polish over your products do anything negative?

Any traditional wax will build up and clogs the leather pores not only distort the beauty of the grain and scuff easily and unsightly, it also retards the leather natural transpiration for wearing comfort – the feet becomes sweaty with moisture trap. Modern topcoat with super soft urethane serves a better purpose to determine the exact luster sheen of choice to contrast section of the shoe with ease. Example is with AnilineTop-76/21 gloss or satin.

Coconut oil polishes are stuffing oils and it saturate the inter-fibrilliary spaces or pores suffocating the natural leather transpiration for breathing comfort, just like wearing a non-breathing rubber or plastic cheap shoe. Besides on the lighter pastel color that is absorbent, it will certainly impart an undesirable darkening effect.

Waterproofing for leather is defined as, even though the leather appears wet outside the inside is dry. Likens to a wooden boat that is wet on the outside and dries the inside, the shoe appears wet but the feet inside is dry and comfortable. These are leather that is plumps with fatliquor with the fat become solid at room temperature and with either oil or wax pull-up as secondary conditioner to impart the waterproofing effect. Such natural waterproofing pull-up effects are namely derived from Leather Doctor® Oil Effect-2.8 and Wax Effect-8.6.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

[patrickBOOTH]

Thanks so much Roger, one more question. Are water mark by themselves a bad thing or is it mostly cosmetic. If you have already done Clean followed by Rinse and there is still a slight mark is that necessarily affecting the integrity of the leather?

I ask because all of my shoes are black and sometimes it can be very hard to even tell if there is a stain, at an arms distance, but if you look really hard sometimes you can "nitpick" and see a mark.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Are watermark by themselves a bad thing or is it mostly cosmetic. If you have already done Clean followed by Rinse and there is still a slight mark is that necessarily affecting the integrity of the leather? I ask because all of my shoes are black and sometimes it can be very hard to even tell if there is a stain, at an arms distance, but if you look really hard sometimes you can "nitpick" and see a mark.

When we talk about leather we are talking more about the thickness integrity of the leather more than the surfaces finishes. When examine carefully at this dried stain we may see the edges indented or a sort of vertical shrinkage has occurred where the fiber structure collapse, becomes stiffer and the fugitive leather constituents leached out and deposited at the edges which sometimes forms a ridge noticeable from the feel of our finger tips.

Surface cleaning is done with Clean-3.8 (mild), Strong Clean-4.3 (strong), Super Clean-4.9 (super) or Prep-4.4 (prep) to match the degree of soiling severity. Rinse-3.0 further removes all residues to a healthy squeaky clean that ends the holistic cleaning system.

Below surface or leather structure cleaning will need the help of Hydrator-3.3 working with its surface-active-agent or surfactancy to moves colloid or foreign soiling particulates to the surface through the wicking process. Techniques includes “reverse transferring” the soiling particulates through a stretchable paper towel (comes with the kit) after the Hydrator-3.3 helps to simultaneously protonates the protein leather fiber and redistributing the leather constituents back to hydrogen bond with ionic positive (+ve) charged sites. This Hydrator-3.3 active phenomenon helps reverse the pH in-balance thus restores the pH chemistry integrity of the leather. To further soften the leather when dry for softness and strength Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished with each absorbent and drying cycle, when the water contents evaporates more is replenished until the leather becomes fully saturated with subsequent fatliquor application.

Old shoes that have shrink and becomes tight to wear will soon be very comfortable to wear again with the Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system. This is done on the insides as well if the lining is also of leather or suede.

Protector-B+ will help to smoothen the leather to reduce friction rubs and helps to easily slide leather or suede lining shoes in and out smoothly as an extension of our skin.

Product information:


http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...%29/Categories

Leather Doctor Kit A3 – Aniline Leather Care Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit A3, aniline leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping leathers at their highest level of appearance, maintaining its pH chemistry integrity, enhancing their suppleness and prevents premature ageing. Leathers that faced the sun, closed to fireplace and heaters dries out the fat and oil that keeps it supple sooner than the non-heat exposed areas. The diminishing of the fat and oil through evaporation results in the leather fibers being stick closer together that results in stiffness and when flexed during used will lead to cracks. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to plumps the stick together fibers prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and strong. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness and cracking. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced with friction noise reduction. This is preventable with a rub-resistant Protector-B+ that imparts a natural buttery-feel. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Cleaner-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0 to the bare body contact areas like headrest and armrest helps reduce greasy soiling build-up. Restorative cleaning and occasional dye stains removal from new blue jeans is accomplished with Prep-4.4. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this leather-safe holistic care system.
Instruction:

Preventive Care:
A non-stick, rub-resistant protection is recommended to be in place before putting the leather to daily use. Protector-B+ imparts a soft natural buttery-feel that enhances the leather luxuriously to the sense of touch. The non-stick surface shields the leather from sticky soiling thus prolonging the high level of appearance. Rub-resistant abilities reduce friction noises that translate into less friction wear. This leather-scented protector diffuses a classic leather scent that boost the sensuous leather more appealing to the leather lover. This preventive care is kept in place at each level of routine, periodic or restorative cleaning cycle. A simply spray and wipe prolongs the need for cleaning heavy soiling.
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Routine Care:
Routine care includes procedures such as general dust cleaning, attending to spots and stains as required especially the neutralizing of swear stains from shifting alkaline. Thus prevents leather from tackiness. A routine non-stick rub resistant protection after neutralizing rinse helps keep leather in a more attractive and healthy state while preventing premature wears.
1. Spray Rinse-3.0, horsehair Brush-1 agitates and towel extract until it shows clean.
2. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Periodic Care:
Periodic care is recommended before soiling causes damages to the finishing. This keeps leather consistently clean and healthy at all times. Body contact areas would require more frequent attention than the unused areas. While the leather headrest and hand rest gets the most of body oil and sweat contacts.
1st phase – Periodic Care:
1. Spray Cleaner-3.8 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1; ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Towel extract until it shows clean.
3. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract to a squeaky-clean.
4. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Moreover, it is used to check for surface tension from blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to check for an even appearance.
3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fatliquor evaporates as VOC (volatile organic compound) when temperature rises especially from exposed surfaces. Periodic fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
4th phase – Preventive Care
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Restorative Care:
This is the ultimate restorative or salvage care system that removes accumulated soiling including aged conditioners. Accumulated soiling that fills creases is often mistaken for cracks. Restorative cleaning is performed by using Prep-4.4. It works by chemical reaction to emulsify soiling through its penetrating, lubricating and suspending power. Horsehair detailing Brush-1 is recommended to worked into heavily soiled areas sufficiently to avoid excessive agitation that might damage already weaken finishes especially on heavily used areas.
1st phase - Restorative Cleaning:
1. Apply Prep-4.4 and agitate with horsehair Brush-1, ensuring a uniform application over the entire surfaces a section at a time.
2. Allow a dwell time of 10 to 30 minutes or before it dries prior to towel extraction until it shows clean.
3. Sticky residue is removed by Cleaner-3.8 with gentle brush agitation and towel extracts until it shows clean.
4. Remaining residues are spray rinse with Rinse-3.0 and towel extracts to a squeaky-clean.
5. Let dry and inspect for satisfaction, otherwise repeat cleaning process as necessary or proceed to hydrating.
2nd phase – Hydrating:
Hydrating is essential to relax and separate the stick together collapsing fibrous structure. Its surfactantcy helps check for surface tension of blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing.
1. Spray Hydrator-3.3 to saturate with an even appearance to soften up the leather.
2. Let dwell 10 to 30 minutes and towel extract wick up soiling until it shows clean.
3rd phase – Fat and Oil Replenishing:
Fat and oil replenishing maintains the leather’s structure integrity and pliability thus strengthen these exposed leather from cracking.
1. Spray Fatliquor-5.0 in like manner as Hydrator-3.3 and let dry naturally.
2. Repeat application in between drying until saturated.
3. The leather is left for slow natural drying for extra softness.
4. Surface strays are wiped with Hydrator-3.3 to free of sticky residue.
4th phase – Preventive Care:
1. Mist sprays Protector-B+ spread with lint free towel and is ready for use when dry.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

[patrickBOOTH]

Great info! I understand what you mean about coconut oil sealing up the leathers natural moisture wicking properties, could it also have an effect on the ionization properties as well, or is it more of just a sealing effect? Also, would you be willing to disclose what fats and oils are in your Fatliquor product? Are they based on a specific tannery's ingredients?

[Roger Koh]

>>> Great info! I understand what you mean about coconut oil sealing up the leathers natural moisture wicking properties, could it also have an effect on the ionization properties as well, or is it more of just a sealing effect?

You are right! It is only a sealing or stuffing effect.

Coconut oil, olive oil and most other oils are non-ionic charged oils so does not hydrogen-bond with the protein fiber, instead just fills up the breathing pores that suffocates the leather from natural transpiration the effect of such oils is you will get sweaty feet as compared with Fatliquor-5.0. Fatliquor-5.0 hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber with the fat that plumps the leather with fullness, the oils that lubricates the millions of interconnecting fibrils that slide over one another smoothly without breaking or cracks and the water contents evaporates that leave the natural leather transpiration for wearing comfort keeping the interior dry by evaporating foreign moisture contents from skin contacts.

The fats and oils are ionic negative (-ve) charged with a pH value of 5.0 safe for all leather and suede types.

Ingredients are non-hazardous, non-carcinogenic, non-irritant and non-sensitizing known causing effect.