Caring for high-end dress shoes

[patrickBOOTH]

Great info! I understand what you mean about coconut oil sealing up the leathers natural moisture wicking properties, could it also have an effect on the ionization properties as well, or is it more of just a sealing effect? Also, would you be willing to disclose what fats and oils are in your Fatliquor product? Are they based on a specific tannery's ingredients?

[Roger Koh]

>>> Great info! I understand what you mean about coconut oil sealing up the leathers natural moisture wicking properties, could it also have an effect on the ionization properties as well, or is it more of just a sealing effect?

You are right! It is only a sealing or stuffing effect.

Coconut oil, olive oil and most other oils are non-ionic charged oils so does not hydrogen-bond with the protein fiber, instead just fills up the breathing pores that suffocates the leather from natural transpiration the effect of such oils is you will get sweaty feet as compared with Fatliquor-5.0. Fatliquor-5.0 hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) leather protein fiber with the fat that plumps the leather with fullness, the oils that lubricates the millions of interconnecting fibrils that slide over one another smoothly without breaking or cracks and the water contents evaporates that leave the natural leather transpiration for wearing comfort keeping the interior dry by evaporating foreign moisture contents from skin contacts.

The fats and oils are ionic negative (-ve) charged with a pH value of 5.0 safe for all leather and suede types.

Ingredients are non-hazardous, non-carcinogenic, non-irritant and non-sensitizing known causing effect.

[patrickBOOTH]

Roger, so far I have done the Clean - Rinse - Hydrator - Fatliquor on my shoes. I can't believe how much the creases have relaxed. I didn't think that was possible. So my next question is if I don't get my shoes dirty, or overly wet or anything how frequently should I do the Hydrator - Fatliquor treatment? Is it time based, or contingent on how often I wear them?

Also, will the ph of the leather be affected by very humid days in the summer? Will that cause breaking of the hydrogen bonds? Also, heat, will very hot days require more frequent attention?

You mention using your products on the veg tanned linings too. Do those require the cleaning and rinsing, or just Hydrator? I am not sure of the ph of foot sweat, but just wondering how invasive of a job needs to be done to keep the linings healthy.

[Roger Koh]

>>> Roger, so far I have done the Clean - Rinse - Hydrator - Fatliquor on my shoes.
I can't believe how much the creases have relaxed.
I didn't think that was possible.

Good if you show some pictures, perhaps I may give extra tips to it.


>>> So my next question is if I don't get my shoes dirty, or overly wet or anything how frequently should I do the Hydrator - Fatliquor treatment?
Is it time based, or contingent on how often I wear them?

Fatliquor-5.0 is a volatile organic compound (VOC) thus will eventually dry up weather the shoe is on display or used.


>>> Also, will the pH of the leather be affected by very humid days in the summer?
When the shoe is in being used continuously during very humid summer days and sweat has accumulated as well and if it ferments with ammonia odor we will know that the protein leather fiber has shifted ionic negative (-ve).


>>> Will that cause breaking of the hydrogen bonds?

The odor alone will tells us that the breaking of the hydrogen bonds between the protein leather fibers and its other constituents especially the fatliquor takes place. The effect is that when the shoe becomes dry it will be stiffer. Trying to wear a stiff shoe and try to break-in will create unnatural creases ad wrinkles and further flexing will leads them to cracks.


>>> Also, heat; will very hot days require more frequent attention?

In such a situation when shoes has odor it is best to neutralize the ammonia odor with Acidifier-2.0 to bring back the pH of the protein leather fiber back to ionic positive (+ve) or protonating it.


>>> You mention using your products on the veg tanned linings too.

In hot summer days the caring of the shoe is to the inside leather lining.


>>> Do those require the cleaning and rinsing, or just Hydrator-3.3?

If there is soiling to the sole then Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 it.
When ammonia odor is detected use Acidifier-2.0 to neutralize it and protonate the protein fiber at the same time.
Hydrator-3.3 can do the cleaning and rinsing and relaxing by itself follows with Fatliquor-5.0 to soften and strengthen it.


>>> I am not sure of the pH of foot sweat,

Fresh sweat is acidic to neutral, old fermented sweat becomes alkaline.


>>> but just wondering how invasive of a job needs to be done to keep the linings healthy.

As the natural bacteria from the atmosphere flourish is such conducive environment and produce a pungent odor – d’Bacteria-3.7 a leather-safe bactericide is used to kill them. Neglected and put aside may becomes mold infested and treatment is by d’Mold-3.6 a leather-safe fungicide to decontaminate them.


Applying Protector-B+ to leather lining will give you a new experience as it lubricates it with a buttery-feel for a rub-resistant comfort with a classic leather scent that charms.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

[patrickBOOTH]

Once again, thank you! Another thing I am wondering is how long you need to let the hydrator sit before applying the fatliquor? Can it go on one after the other, for just regular maintenance purposes? Do I have to let it sit for a long time before applying the fatliquor? Also, how long should the fatliquor dwell before use again?

Also, what is the difference between the Protector with the buttery feel vs. silky feel? Is there a difference in appearance?

[Roger Koh]

>>> Another thing I am wondering is how long you need to let the Hydrator-3.3 sit before applying the Fatliquor-5.0?

Fatliquor-5.0 is for below surface and it need to go through the leather finishes in most cases impede or obstruct penetration to a degree unless it is naked unfinished or pure-aniline. The entire surface has to be of an even color while preconditioning it with Hydrator-3.3. It depends on what wish to achieve, deep creases, wrinkles shrinkage, stains will require up to 72 hours to rectify them. Checking for surface tension will just need an eyeball test as long as it shows even appearance is suffice for routine fatliquoring.


>>> Can it go on one after the other, for just regular maintenance purposes?

Leather rejuvenating system process Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3
Surface have to take on an even appearance with Hydrator-3.3 prior to Fatliquor-5.0 thereafter any surface remnants is work in with Hydrator-3.3.
Application by spraying or foam brush to prevent overspray and it is best work by horsehair Brush-1 to evenly distribute them into the leather structure.
As the leather water contents evaporates more is apply each session until the leather is fully saturated.


>>> Do I have to let it sit for a long time before applying the Fatliquor-5.0?

Dwell time duration depends on leather condition as Hydrator-3.3 plays multi roles, functions or purposes from as soon as it takes on an even appearance with horsehair Brush-1 to up to 72 hours to relax shrinkage, creases and wrinkles or colloidal movement within the leather structure for penetrated stains removal.
A longer time dwell is always work in conjunction with stretchable paper towel as reservoir or a means for trapping the wicking stains instead of remaining on the leather surface.


>>> Also, how long should the Fatliquor-5.0 dwell before use again?

For a new shoe that is too tight or an old shoe that have shrunk too tight, wearing it while still damp help to stretch to the right size.
Natural drying or slow drying results in more degree of suppleness with softness and strength.


>>> Also, what is the difference between the Protector with the buttery feel vs. silky feel? Is there a difference in appearance?

Buttery-feel with Protector B+ or B is recommended for aniline leathers with a gloss or satin topcoat.
Silky-feel with Protector S+ or S is recommended for “pure aniline” or nubuck or napa-suede with a natural finish.
Silky-feel may be used for gloss or satin finish topcoated but buttery-feel is not recommended for the finer more natural appearance of pure-aniline, nubuck or suede.
Buttery-feel is recommended for the interior lining to reduce friction rubs for wearing comfort.

[patrickBOOTH]

Hi Roger, I've been really pleased with taking care of my shoes using this system. I'm still insure how frequently I should be hydrating and fatliquoring. Should it be monthly? Bi weekly? Quarterly? I'm not sure how fast the fats and oils stay in the fibers until they evaporate. If I don't have a regular routine I fear I'll forget and have damage done and it's too late for them.

Also, shell cordovan is a stuffed leather, is it advise able to use my tried and true coconut conditioner on them along with the hydrator, Fatliquor routine? Thank you!