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Thread: Pigmented - Red Dye Stain - How to remove red dye stains from a white leather couch and maintaining on a regular basis from becoming grey with soiling.

  1. #1
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    Default Pigmented - Red Dye Stain - How to remove red dye stains from a white leather couch and maintaining on a regular basis from becoming grey with soiling.

    I have a white leather couch with red dye stains coming from a red bathrobe. I have had the bathrobe for about 2 months now so probably the stains are two months old. I purchased the product called Dry Cleaning for Suede & Leather and some of the pink left but not all. My white couch (see attached photos) is only 8 months old and it is in a sunroom that was added to my house just last spring. During the day you can still see the pink on the couch but I have a feeling it will not show up on the photograph. By the way I ordered the Leather Doctor Kit Sa7.di anyway because I will be using it often and of course now I have to condition my couch and add some protection on it. Your guidance with this is greatly appreciated. Also please provide me with instructions on how to maintain my couch on a regular basis so that the white does not become grey.


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    I have received your kit for the removal of ink and dye transfer and I thank you for same. I am looking forward to trying this so that I can get rid of a mild dye transfer from my red bathrobe onto my eight-month old white couch.

    Now I am looking for a kit or products to clean my couch when stains appear almost on a daily basis. A white couch does get dirty quickly and I would like to maintain its gorgeous white colour. I saw you have two cleaners called “Light Soiling” & “Heavy Soiling” and I was wondering if one of these products remove any kind of daily stains. Also, where I sit I have noticed that the cushion is kind of grey and not that brilliant white so I would like to get rid of that.

    Again, thank you so much for your help and I look forward to your next suggestions.
    Last edited by Questions!; 02-20-2014 at 02:30 PM.

  2. #2
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    We will go through the issues as requested one at a time.

    #1 “red dye stains coming from a red bathrobe”
    Using the Leather Doctor leather-safe system Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 has proven many times over of its excellent result without side effect to the finishes (colorcoat and topcoat). However what we are doing is salvaging a fail attempt with unknown product “Dry Cleaning for Suede & Leather”. Dry cleaners have a high content of solvent and this might have removed the topcoat partially. This possible topcoat removal may drive the stain further into the colorcoat and hope is not the case.
    In practice, if the stain is un-touch or original it is a straight process as follows:

    Plan A:
    1. Squeeze the Prep-7.7 onto the horsehair Brush-1 and apply by spreading and agitating the stain.
    2. Stains release is extracted with absorbent towel until it shows clean.
    3. Reapply and let it dwell up to 4 hours.
    4. Suspended stains is extracted until towel shows clean.
    5. Spray Clean-3.8 and remove with brush agitation the sticky residue for an inspection.
    6. When satisfactory spray Rinse-3.0 and it is finish ready for Protector-B+, otherwise proceed with Plan B:

    Plan B:
    1. Apply Prep-7.7 directly onto the stain.
    2. Lay paper towel and squeeze through the Prep-7.7 to saturate it.
    3. Leave it overnight for at least 24 hours.
    4. Inspect by lifting the paper to see if the stain is “reverse transfer”.
    5. When it is satisfactorily absorbed by the paper towel, the stain removal job is accomplished and proceed to remove the sticky residue.
    6. Spray Clean-3.8 agitate with Brush-1 and extract.
    7. Rinse with Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel, if sliminess persist spay Acidifier-2.0 to achieve a squeaky feel for leather pH chemistry integrity.
    8. Proceed with Protector-B+ when dry.


    Let see how this problem is solved before we go on to the next.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com


    Product information:


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    Leather Doctor Kit Sa7.di – Leather Dye / Ink Stain Remover Kit
    Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.di, micro-pigmented leather dye and ink stain removal kit is an innovative concept of removing blue jeans dye and ink stains featuring a “reverse transfer” technique utilizing a paper towel over the dwelling Prep-7.7 for micro-pigmented, antiquing and two-tone leathers that normally has a satin luster effect. The micro-pigmented and fashion effect varieties have a more delicate finish and is easily removed during stain removal and color refinishing is the norm on most wear areas. Prep-7.7 works by penetrating, lubricating and suspending the stains on dwell time and the paper towel reverse absorb the stain instantaneously from the leather. Prior failed attempt with set-in stains may require the help of Bleach-9.9 as booster to the Prep-7.7 to remove the residual stains. Remove sticky residue with Clean-3.8, rinsed with Rinse-3.0 and neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 when Bleach-9.9 is being used. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and eliminates surface tension prior to fatliquor replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 rejuvenates the leather structure with softness and suppleness when dry. MicroTop-54S is an option for renewing the finish from friction wear. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant protection with a buttery feel that shield against sticky soiling and reduce friction noises. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe dye and ink stain removal system.
    Instruction:

    Testing with Prep-7.7
    Note that secondary colors are delicate and color refinishing is the norm after stain removal on wear areas.
    1. Cut out a piece of paper towel from the kit not bigger than our thumb size and soak it with Prep-7.7.
    2. Test it on the worst stains area and inspect every 24 hours with fresh application until the stain is gone.
    3. Observe if there is sign of stain removal, if it does, the stain will eventually be removed with repeat application.
    4. To secure the test patch from dislodging wrapped it over with see through cling wrap.
    5. When stain is removed with satisfaction, clean off the sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 until a squeaky-feel.
    6. Apply a soak out paper towel with Acidifier-2.0 over the area until dry to strengthen the finish prior to topcoat application.
    7. When test after 72 hours shows poor response, Bleach-9.9 may be used to boost the Prep-7.7.

    Mixing Ratio (1: 2: 2)
    1. A mixing ratio guide by weight is 1 part Bleach-9.9: 2 parts Prep-7.7: 2 parts Hot water.
    2. From the mixing bottle, a small test portion Bleach-9.9 is first added into the bottle follow with Prep-7.7 adding and stirring into a paste.
    3. Hot water is dripped into the bottle using the pipette to activate the bleach and stirring into a creamy paste.

    Testing with Bleach-9.9
    1. Apply onto an inconspicuous or hidden area and leave it for a 12 hours inspection for discoloration.
    2. Remove residue with damp wiping and cleaning sticky residue with Cleaner-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0.
    3. Cut out a paper towel, soak with Acidifier-2.0 and place on the test spot until naturally dry to neutralize the alkalinity.

    Note
    If testing with Bleach-9.9 bleach shows side effect, abandon and continue only with Prep-7.7.

    Actual Application
    Repeat testing successes to the actual application.


    Kit Content and Product Description:

    Leather Doctor® Prep-7.7 (60ml)
    This is a waterbased pH-7.7 high viscosity leather cleaner developed to remove dye and ink stains on all pigmented leathers. It works by dwell-time allowing its superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do its work. It is design to work in co-operation with Bleach-9.9 to synergize its working power. Sticky residue is to be clean with Cleaner-3.8, rinsed with Rinse-3.0 and neutralized with Acidifier-2.0 when Bleach-9.9 is in co-operated.

    Leather Doctor® Bleach-9.9 (30ml)
    This product is only use on pigmented leather finish types. This powder becomes pH 9.9 when works as a booster for Prep-7.7 in a weight ratio mix with hot water at a ratio of 1: 2: 2 (Bleach-9.9: Prep-7.7: Hot water). Non-metal tools are used to prepare the mixture. Sticky residue is to be clean with Cleaner-3.8, rinsed with Rinse-3.0 and neutralized with Acidifier-2.0.

    Leather Doctor® Clean-3.8 (250ml)
    This is a leather-safe pH 3.8 cleaner for removing Prep-7.7 sticky residue.

    Leather Doctor® Rinse-3.0 (250ml)
    This is a leather-safe pH 3.0 rinse to neutralize alkalinity and remove all traces of cleaning residue to a healthy squeaky-feel.

    Leather Doctor® Acidifier-2.0 (250ml)
    This is a waterbased pH 2.0 leather acidifier ten times stronger than Rinse-3.0 developed to rinse and neutralize Bleach-9.9 in this leather-safe system. The effect of neutralizing is to reduce tackiness or sliminess from alkalinity and returning the leather to a healthy squeaky-feel. The objective is to return the leather to its pH neutral of 3 – 5 for the leather-structure chemistry integrity sake.

    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 (250ml)
    This is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator with active surfactantcy for lowering the interfacial tension. It is for hydrating dried, stiffed or shrunk leathers to separate the crushed, stick together fibrils and relaxes them. It is for charging the leather protein fibers below its iso-electric point positive for long lasting hydrogen bond with the ionic negative charged Fatliquor-5.0. It is for facilitating colloidal water movement within the leather structure during the wicking process to move soiling particulates to the surface.

    Leather Doctor® Fatliquor-5.0 (250ml)
    This is a pH 5.0 anionic charged micro emulsion fatliquor to rejuvenate leather with softness, suppleness and strength.
    It is for replenishing original fat and oil that diminishes thru sun bleaching, ageing, heat and alkaline exposure or cleaning.
    It penetrates and lubricates the leather fibers so that after drying they will be capable of sliding over one another smoothly.
    It softens the leather with stretchability, compressibility and flexibility, while enhancing its rip tensile strength greatly. It relaxes coarse breaks, creases and wrinkles enhance suppleness and prevent cracking. It helps to keep leather at its optimum physical performance and prevent premature ageing.

    Leather Doctor® MicroTop-54S (60ml)
    This is a satin luster finishes waterbased soft polyurethane leather topcoat. It is lightfast and non-yellowing. It has excellent flow and leveling properties. It is recoatable and forms a flexible film coat. It gives good performing results from friction wear.

    Leather Doctor® Protector-B+ (120ml)
    This is a leather scented, non-film forming, non-stick, rub-resistant protector that impart a natural buttery-feel. Its non-stick breathable barrier is essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling. Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion. It reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when one slides in and out of auto seats.

    Leather Brush-1 (1pc)
    This horsehair detailing brush is designed ergonomically to be an extension of our hand with a sturdy grooved grip. It is designed to produce effective result easily and efficiently. It is recommended for all smooth leather for a soft and scratch-free cleaning. Its length is 7 inches with a three-row bristle 1˝ inches cleaning head.

    Paper Towel Rags (5 pcs)
    This rag works like cloth, lint free, highly absorbent and washable. General application is for extracting suspended soiling or for spreading hydrator, fatliquor or protector. It is used for both dye and topcoat padding for smooth leathers.

    3 inch Poly-Brush (2 pcs)
    This is a dense foam that resists tearing and shredding and carries more material. It has a solid wood handle that allows greater control for quality results. It is used for controlling and spreading fatliquor for a more even distribution.

    2000-grit wet and dry Sandpaper (1 pc)
    This sandpaper is selected specially for its ability to smoothen rough finish. Sanding is aim at the finish for better anchorage during refinishing. It is for smoothen finishes in between coating when necessary.

    Mixing Bottle (1pc)
    This bottle is for mixing Bleach-9.9: Prep-7.7: Hot water in weight ratio of 1: 2: 2. The mixed products become a whitish cream.

    Pipette (1 pc)
    This 2ml plastic pipette is for dripping hot water to activate the Bleach-9.9 in the mixing bottle

    Stir Stick (1 pc)
    This wooden stir stick is for the mixing bottle.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 02-20-2014 at 04:08 PM.

  3. #3
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    I hope you can see the difference between the wrinkle where it is completely white compared to the rest of the pillow.
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    The second photograph is my armrest where I was leaning into it I think you can see the pink colour.
    #2
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    The second photograph is my armrest where I was leaning into it I think you can see the pink colour.
    Last edited by Questions!; 02-24-2014 at 12:41 PM.

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    Pictures are good enough, besides the color contrast of pink and grey, we see lost of coloring to the leather crust along the seam in picture #2. The removal-failed attempt from non-safe methods reveals the white grains (possible the raw colorcoat with missing topcoat while the grooves still remains pink. We will go into details how to prevent this from happening after we have done a test removing.

    Instruction to reverse transfers the stain for a period of 72 hours.

    1] Apply Prep-7.7 to the stain (about thumb size) and squeeze a cut out paper over only on the center and leave it there for 72 hours (Replenish the Prep-7.7 to keep it constantly saturated and change to a new paper if stains shows).

    See this example:
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    Please show pictures if you have done it right.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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    IT WORKED!!!

    Please see the photos attached. One thing that got me a little worried is that when I cleaned it up with the Clean-3.8 and brushed it with the horse brush, there were little white granules loose. You can see these at the edge of the square. Is this normal?

    Also, I am ready to do this to my armrest as well as my back pillow but I will not start anything until you guide me so that nothing turns grey like it did on my armrest. You had mentioned that you would say something about this after I finish the 72-hour patch test.

    The first one is when I applied the Prep 7.7 Sunday morning and the 2nd one is the one I took this morning, 24 hours later. You can see the paper has a hint of pink. The paper stays wet with the product as per your request. You had also suggested for me to keep this on for 72 hours, keep it saturated with Prep 7.7 so I will send you another photograph tomorrow when it is going to be 48 hours after application of product.


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    Last edited by Questions!; 03-04-2014 at 09:20 AM. Reason: add pictures

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    >>> One thing that got me a little worried is that when I cleaned it up with the Clean-3.8 and brushed it with the horse brush, there were little white granules loose. You can see these at the edge of the square. Is this normal?

    This is only normal if the initial topcoat is already damaged in some ways typical from unknown pre-attempt products that has weakened the finishes.
    The MicroTop-54S, satin luster is the ready replacement after the leather is rinse to a squeaky feel with Rinse-3.0.


    >>> Also, I am ready to do this to my armrest as well as my back pillow but I will not start anything until you guide me so that nothing turns grey like it did on my armrest. You had mentioned that you would say something about this after I finish the 72-hour patch test.

    The armrest seam that turns grey as shown in Post #3, picture #2 is the loss of both the topcoat and the colorcoat that reveal the raw leather crust.
    The entire folding seam is recommended to be repaired in this sequence: Adhesor-73 > Micro-54 > MicroTop-54S > Protector-B+ after the stains are removed.

    Tips:
    To avoid the Prep-7.7 from over working a 24hours inspection may suffice if the stain is already gone.
    Avoid unnecessary physical agitation when using the horsehair Brush.
    Use blotting motion for moisture extraction after Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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    >>> You had also suggested for me to keep this on for 72 hours, keep it saturated with Prep 7.7 so I will send you another photograph tomorrow when it is going to be 48 hours after application of product.


    The 72 hours dwell should produce the best result, however it is not mandatory, the reverse transfer result is inspected every 24 hours and if it proves satisfactorily it should end then with a follow-up removing its sticky residue from over cleaning using Clean-3.8 and follow with Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel. Acidifier-2.0 is used to further control or rectify any sliminess or stickiness.


    Tips:
    The purpose for this testing is to prepare you for the entire work - the proper laying of the paper towel without leaving any air space, the amount of products equally spread out and the duration of time, so that we do not UNDER clean it nor OVER-CLEAN it. Under cleaning it is not acceptable and over-cleaning it may weakens the finishes on already unhealthy finishes.
    This "reverse transfer" technique minimize the use of risky physical agitation as we seen along the seam, where the topcoat and colorcoat are removed unintentionally.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-04-2014 at 09:42 AM.

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    >>> Hi Roger. I have waited a week and a half and now am ready to start all over again. I hope you can see that little square of application and I can guarantee you that it is drenched with 7.7 both under the towel and over the towel. I will check periodically to make sure that the towel does not dry up and I will provide you with another photograph tomorrow at 4 PM. Keep your fingers crossed.

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    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-21-2014 at 09:21 AM.

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    >>> Not sure if you got my second photograph but I took this one at noon today. So the towel has been on for the past 20 hours. As you can see there is still some transfer happening. I lifted the towel and it looks pretty good. I've got a slight feeling I will only need 24 hours on this application. What do you think?

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    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-21-2014 at 09:21 AM.

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    >>> I think that it looks great and I can take it off at 4:00 pm after it has been on for 24 hrs.

    One more question. When I do take off the towel do I immediately clean, rinse, hydrate and oil this patch or can I wait until the whole cushion is done?



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    Last edited by Roger Koh; 03-21-2014 at 09:21 AM.

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    >>> One more question. When I do take off the towel do I immediately clean, rinse, hydrate and oil this patch or can I wait until the whole cushion is done?

    Do it in 2 phases cleanup (Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0) the cushion first and leave the leather rejuvenating (Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0) until the entire sectional is completed.


    Cleanup Sticky Residue:
    Tools to use are horsehair Brush-1 and terry towel for extraction (avoid rubbing use blotting instead as the existing topcoat is questionable from failed attempt and wear).

    1 Spray Clean-3.8 and gently agitate with horsehair Brush-1 and blot suspended soiling away until towel shows clean and surface does not feel sticky.

    2 Spray Rinse-3.0 agitate with brush gently preferable at an angle to achieve a squeaky feel, otherwise Acidifier-2.0 may need to improve to a squeaky feel to restore the chemistry integrity of the finishes.

    Tips:
    As previous attempt have removed the finishes and reveal the grey leather crust, the lesson learned is not to over remove or under remove. Rubbing is avoided but use blotting instead during the sticky cleanup process.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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    Hi Roger I just wanted to show you how well it's going. It is kind of slow but it's worth every minute. As you can see I am just going one little square at a time as per your earlier comments. It is better to take the time then brush the job L

    I'm loving it especially that now I understand what has to be done


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    Last edited by Questions!; 03-25-2014 at 10:16 PM.

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    Everything is moving along great as you can see!

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    Name:  Cleaning of the couch cushions where we sit 2.jpg
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    >>> Yes, it’s me again. I have attached a photograph for your information on what my couch (sitting area) looks like as I am trying to clean it. I am using Super Clean 4.9. Clean 3.8, Rinse and the tiny horsehair brush.

    I believe you are cleaning the rest of your couch not affected with the dye transfer. If so we are doing a restorative or corrective cleaning to remove accumulated soiling. Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 still applies with a shorter dwelling time without the need for “reverse transfer” technique, perhaps a 1 to 8 hours dwelling time may suffice. The Prep-7.7 is simply applied with a 3 inch foam brush and let it dwell. Suspended soiling is then removed with Clean-3.8 plus horsehair Brush-1 towel extraction follows with Rinse-3.0 and towel extraction. Try this Prep-7.7 system rather than Super Clean-4.9 system and let us know your findings.


    >>> Do you have a bigger brush than the one that was provided to me when I ordered the dye transfer kit as it is taking forever to clean my couch.

    Yes the next size of brush is the hand size. I have tried all types of brushes including motorized since the mid 1980’s and today I still clean couches with this lightweight horsehair Brush-1. I clean faster and more efficiently than any of the brushes that I have tried. You may already have some of these brushes especially those bath brush made of natural bristles – any bath brushes that does not hurt our skin will do for any leather cleaning as well. It is the product system that works, brushes agitation helps to clean the uneven surfaces including the stitching, grooves, creases and wrinkles. A hand brush does not reach out to these undulating surfaces more efficiently than a detailing Brush-1.


    >>> It is taking me forever just to do a small square.

    It will take an instant if you use a wiping technique (just like the action of our auto windscreen wiper).

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    Here is the sequence of procedures for a complete refinishing:


    A: Stain Removal, Cleaning and Rinsing Process:

    Step A1:
    Use Prep-7.7 to remove all foreign soiling and stains, stubborn stains will need dwell-time with “reverse transfer” technique (for which you have done it perfectly).

    Step A2:
    Soiling and sticky residue from Prep-7.7 has to be neutralized and removed with Clean-3.8 application and working with horsehair Brush-1 and towel extract.

    Step A3:
    Rinse-3.0 follows to remove all soiling and cleaning residue, spray, brush and towel extract until towel shows clean and a squeaky feel to the leather.


    B: Leather below surface Rejuvenating to Worn Areas and Stitching Seams

    Step B1:
    Apply Hydrator-3.3 with foam brush to these areas to hydrate them.

    Step B2:
    Before the Hydrator-3.3 dries apply Fatliquor-5.0 in similar manner, when dry apply another time and let dry.

    Step B3:
    Spray Hydrator-3.3 over the dried Fatliquor-5.0 path and horsehair Brush-1 with towel extraction to remove surface remnants, otherwise it will retards color refinishing.


    C: Dry Preparation:

    Step C1:
    Surface to be refinished is to be lightly sanded or etch with 1500/2000grit sandpaper.

    Step C2:
    Powder residue is removed with Rinse-3.0 and towel extract and leave to dry.


    D: Adhesion Coating:

    Step D1:
    Apply Adhesor-73 with a 3-inch foam brush, agitate into creases and wrinkles and stitching rows with horsehair Brush-1 and wipe or blot off excess with lint-free towel.


    E: Color Coating:

    Step E1:
    Custom color Micro-54 is to be stirred very well and filter with nylon stocking or paint filter for the amount to be used especially for airbrushing option, otherwise use a suitable fine varnishing brush. Add 5 to 10% by weight of Thickener-48 to Micro-54 custom color and stir very well to control flow. Varnishing technique applies to brushing. By airbrushing set pressure to 80 – 100psi range and use light spraying with low feed and high air volume to fully atomize product. Let dry between coats until satisfaction.


    F: Top Coating:

    Step F1:
    MicroTop-54S is to be stirred very well, all bottom solids has to be dissolved and nylon stocking filtered or paint filter prior to use. Varnishing technique applies to brushing. By airbrushing set pressure to 80 – 100psi range and use light spraying with low feed and high air volume to fully atomize product. Let dry between coats until satisfaction.


    G: Non-Stick, Rub-Resistant Protector:

    Step G1:
    Protector-B+ mist spray and distribute with a lint free towel.


    Let me know if you need clarification.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    info@leatherdoctor.com

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