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Thread: Louis Vuitton - Vachetta leathers - unknown stains!

  1. #1
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    Feb 2012
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    Default Louis Vuitton - Vachetta leathers - unknown stains!

    Like to know how to fix this?

    #1 - the one on top is lip balm
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    #2 - unknown
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    #3 - unknown
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    #4 - unknown
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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    Stain removal system is based on this Vachetta (V) Leather Problem Solving Guide.

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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    Default

    Lip balm main ingredient is wax, with its other oil or solvent contents.

    Old wax may accumulate soiling that changes color; the oil or solvent contents may makes the stain penetrated and produce a darkening effect at the same time.

    The closest stain type category to follow is under Penetrated Oil and Grease in the following sequence:
    1st Phase – Stain Remover:
    Step 1 is to use Degreaser-2.2 to penetrate, lubricate, suspense and emulsify both the wax and oil. The effectiveness will depend how deep and volume the stain is and whether sufficient product follows suit.
    Step 2 is to use Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 to remove surface suspended soiling.
    Step 3 is to use Hydrator-3.3 to move suspended soiling particulates from below the leather structure to the surface to be towel extracted when wet and erase when crispy dry. Moving below surface stains to resurface may take patience and dwelling using a “reverse transfer” technique may facilitate the effectiveness. “Reverse transfer technique is to use a stretchable paper towel to extent over the leather surface so that suspended soiling particulates will be trapped as it wicks pass the paper towel. The trapped stains are peel off when the paper shrinks back when crispy dry.
    Step 4 is an inspection to evaluate the stains and if it is satisfactorily gone but not perfect with some discoloration. This uneven color appearance will then be further rework with Vachetta-2.8 for an even appearance. This is done with application to the entire section of the surface, leaving the product to chemical reaction until natural dry. Dry powdery residue is brush or erase-off and inspect for overall satisfactory appearance. The stain removing follows with appearance treatment ends this phase of stain removal and is proceed to the next phase.

    2nd Phase – Leather Rejuvenating System:
    Leather rejuvenating system comprises of Hydrator-3.3 as the pre-conditioner follows with Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish the fat and oil for leather softness and tear strength.
    Step 1 is to wet out the entire surface and inspect for even appearance with Hydrator-3.3
    Step 2 is to apply Fatliquor-5.0 and allows it to be penetrated evenly into the leather structure. Before it is completely dry subsequent application is done until saturation.
    Step 3 is to inspect for appearance with stretching and erasing with Eraser-4 it for a lightening effect.

    3rd Phase – Non-stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
    Use Protector-D


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com



    Product information:


    Name:  a207915142eea173f2b905_m.JPG
Views: 255
Size:  106.2 KB
    Leather Doctor Kit V6 – Vachetta Leather Grease/Ink/Dye/Browning Removal Kit

    Leather Doctor® Kit V6 is a combination problem solving kit that includes products from Kit V5.dr, Kit V5.ds and Kit V3. Common stains encounter in the course of vachetta leathers lifetime includes the darkening effect from neglected body oil, grease and sweat contact, the occasion ink and dye transfer, and the browning from liquid and sun tanning seasoning effect just like our skin. The protein leather fiber is an ionic positive (+ve) “amphoteric” material thus pH sensitive to influence by alkaline solution shifting ionic negative (-ve), even water with a pH of 7 often discolors or browns it. Its other non-amphoteric leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor remains ionic negative (-ve), hence just like a magnet – “like poles repel”, breaking of the hydrogen bond between them, the leather denatures and in extreme cases revert to rawhide. This adverse contamination is rectify by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system, both to simultaneously degrease and protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to its pH chemistry integrity. Ballpoint, printing ink, dye transfer, gum, sticky substance and accumulated soiling will require the penetrating, lubricating and suspending power of Prep-4.4 follows with Clean-3.8 to remove the sticky residue and Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel. Browning from liquid stain or sun tanning is eliminated or reduced by chemical reaction from Vachetta-2.8 when dry. The above describe the three common class of stain removal. Leather rejuvenating mandatory sequence follows to soften and strength the leather from stiffness that may leads to cracking when flexed. Among leather finishes type, vachetta leathers is the most fatliquor (fat, oil and water) thirsty and will require more fatliquor to soften it then chrome-tanned leathers. In order to lubricate each fibril within the leather structure behaving like millions of interconnecting hinges the fat and oil has to be hydrogen bonded to the fibrils. This is accomplished by preconditioning the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 effectively prior to faliquor replenishing it with Fatliquor-5.0 in between drying cycle until fully saturated. Natural slow drying in between application produces a softer leather. Protecting the leather with Protector-D reduces wear to the grain of the leather, conceal scuff with its healing properties that also allows transpiration to take place or breaths naturally. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing the common problems associated with vachetta, saddlery and veg-tan leathers.
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-04-2014 at 10:29 PM.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    4

    Default

    Thank you!

    I bought the degreaser 2.0 and rinser 3.0 I used both and the stain did not came off;-( however there is a de coloration ...I will get vachetta 2.8. Do I need the hydrator?
    Want can I do next the stain still there :-( as you can see in the three pcs I upload. What would you recommend , do I start with the degreaser again?
    Please help me !
    thanks
    Maria


    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    Lip balm main ingredient is wax, with its other oil or solvent contents.

    Old wax may accumulate soiling that changes color; the oil or solvent contents may makes the stain penetrated and produce a darkening effect at the same time.

    The closest stain type category to follow is under Penetrated Oil and Grease in the following sequence:
    1st Phase – Stain Remover:
    Step 1 is to use Degreaser-2.2 to penetrate, lubricate, suspense and emulsify both the wax and oil. The effectiveness will depend how deep and volume the stain is and whether sufficient product follows suit.
    Step 2 is to use Rinse-3.0 or Acidifier-2.0 to remove surface suspended soiling.
    Step 3 is to use Hydrator-3.3 to move suspended soiling particulates from below the leather structure to the surface to be towel extracted when wet and erase when crispy dry. Moving below surface stains to resurface may take patience and dwelling using a “reverse transfer” technique may facilitate the effectiveness. “Reverse transfer technique is to use a stretchable paper towel to extent over the leather surface so that suspended soiling particulates will be trapped as it wicks pass the paper towel. The trapped stains are peel off when the paper shrinks back when crispy dry.
    Step 4 is an inspection to evaluate the stains and if it is satisfactorily gone but not perfect with some discoloration. This uneven color appearance will then be further rework with Vachetta-2.8 for an even appearance. This is done with application to the entire section of the surface, leaving the product to chemical reaction until natural dry. Dry powdery residue is brush or erase-off and inspect for overall satisfactory appearance. The stain removing follows with appearance treatment ends this phase of stain removal and is proceed to the next phase.

    2nd Phase – Leather Rejuvenating System:
    Leather rejuvenating system comprises of Hydrator-3.3 as the pre-conditioner follows with Fatliquor-5.0 to replenish the fat and oil for leather softness and tear strength.
    Step 1 is to wet out the entire surface and inspect for even appearance with Hydrator-3.3
    Step 2 is to apply Fatliquor-5.0 and allows it to be penetrated evenly into the leather structure. Before it is completely dry subsequent application is done until saturation.
    Step 3 is to inspect for appearance with stretching and erasing with Eraser-4 it for a lightening effect.

    3rd Phase – Non-stick, Rub-Resistant Protection:
    Use Protector-D


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com



    Product information:


    Name:  a207915142eea173f2b905_m.JPG
Views: 255
Size:  106.2 KB
    Leather Doctor Kit V6 – Vachetta Leather Grease/Ink/Dye/Browning Removal Kit

    Leather Doctor® Kit V6 is a combination problem solving kit that includes products from Kit V5.dr, Kit V5.ds and Kit V3. Common stains encounter in the course of vachetta leathers lifetime includes the darkening effect from neglected body oil, grease and sweat contact, the occasion ink and dye transfer, and the browning from liquid and sun tanning seasoning effect just like our skin. The protein leather fiber is an ionic positive (+ve) “amphoteric” material thus pH sensitive to influence by alkaline solution shifting ionic negative (-ve), even water with a pH of 7 often discolors or browns it. Its other non-amphoteric leather constituents like the tanning agent and the fatliquor remains ionic negative (-ve), hence just like a magnet – “like poles repel”, breaking of the hydrogen bond between them, the leather denatures and in extreme cases revert to rawhide. This adverse contamination is rectify by Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system, both to simultaneously degrease and protonate the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) to its pH chemistry integrity. Ballpoint, printing ink, dye transfer, gum, sticky substance and accumulated soiling will require the penetrating, lubricating and suspending power of Prep-4.4 follows with Clean-3.8 to remove the sticky residue and Rinse-3.0 to a healthy squeaky feel. Browning from liquid stain or sun tanning is eliminated or reduced by chemical reaction from Vachetta-2.8 when dry. The above describe the three common class of stain removal. Leather rejuvenating mandatory sequence follows to soften and strength the leather from stiffness that may leads to cracking when flexed. Among leather finishes type, vachetta leathers is the most fatliquor (fat, oil and water) thirsty and will require more fatliquor to soften it then chrome-tanned leathers. In order to lubricate each fibril within the leather structure behaving like millions of interconnecting hinges the fat and oil has to be hydrogen bonded to the fibrils. This is accomplished by preconditioning the leather structure with Hydrator-3.3 effectively prior to faliquor replenishing it with Fatliquor-5.0 in between drying cycle until fully saturated. Natural slow drying in between application produces a softer leather. Protecting the leather with Protector-D reduces wear to the grain of the leather, conceal scuff with its healing properties that also allows transpiration to take place or breaths naturally. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing the common problems associated with vachetta, saddlery and veg-tan leathers.
    Attached Images Attached Images    

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Posts
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    Default

    >>> Want can I do next the stain still there :-( as you can see in the three pcs I upload. What would you recommend, do I start with the degreaser again?).

    A dark stain as shown on absorbent vachetta leathers means that the stain is penetrated and usually oil based if it still shown when the leather is dry. It will need repeat of Degreaser-2.2 to penetrate below the stain to emulsify it and Hydrator-3.3 to well to wick the suspended stain to the surface. Rinse-3.0 is for surface rinsing. Hydrator-3.3 has many functions and priority is to help moves suspended soiling within the leather structure.

    Technique practice is as follows:
    1- Shake the Degreaser-2.2 to gel, transfer apply using a cotton swab to saturate the stain until fully saturated and let to dwell 10 to 30minutes or before it dries.
    2- Blot any suspended soiling until paper towel shown clean and dry.
    3- Inspect to determine its effectiveness, otherwise repeats as the stain is moving to the surface.
    4- When surface appears lighter in appearance, Rinse-3.0 may follow.
    5- Deeper suspended soiling need to resurface and is more effective when Hydrator-3.3 is used. This will require soaking or saturating into the depth of the stain to help moves the soiling particulates to the surface, blotting repeatedly while damp or using a “reverse transfer” technique to peel off the soiling particulates when crispy dry then allowing it to deposit on the leather surface. “Reverse Transfer” technique is using a stretchable paper towel that comes with the kit with Hydrator-3.3 and working with leather Brush-1. The principle is to extent the leather surface so that soiling particulates wick through it and peel off when crispy dry.
    6- When the stain is fully out from below surface it may appear lighter or discolored, which is part of the successful stain removal over cleaning. This slight discoloration is rectified with Hydrator-3.3 to even out the appearance and is recommended to saturate evenly out to the entire panel or section without leaving out a connecting dry section that may results in rings or marking when dry.
    7- Severe discoloration may need the help of Vachetta-2.8 if original stain does shift the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) charges.
    8- Even appearance is also improves when Fatliquor-5.0 is replenished as degreasing also removes the natural fat and oil that contributes to its color intensity.
    9- Finally the Protector-D helps in the total appearance as well as imparting a non-stick, rub-resistant surface. It will also rectify some minor surface defects with its healing properties.

    As you can see the care of naked, unfinished vachetta leather is very unforgiving due to its nature and will need a pure and holistic approach to it, base on science and logic. Note that all products suffix denotes the pH value of the product. Vachetta an amphoteric leather protein fiber is more pH sensitive than others and success will require some understanding of what leather is, knowledge and patience.



    >>> however there is a de coloration ...I will get vachetta 2.8. Do I need the hydrator?

    Rectification for discoloration will require the help of Hydrator-3.3 and Vachetta-2.8
    Recommend Kit V6, otherwise if you need professional services send the bag to me!


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    info@leatherdoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 01-07-2014 at 11:37 AM.

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