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Thread: Aniline (Sauvage) - couch wear & tear :(

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    New Hampshire
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    Default Aniline (Sauvage) - couch wear & tear :(

    Wow! I've spent some time looking through this forum and it seems like I've finally found the right place to get some advice! I have an aniline leather couch that's about 6 years old (maybe older... it was the floor model & had some pretty significant sun damage when I got it -- at a big discount). It is the Oscar sofa from Norwalk Furniture in leather.

    Over time, the seating area with the heaviest seat traffic has started to wear in various ways -- each panel of the seat slightly differently. Here is a shot of the whole couch:
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    Here is a closer shot of the area that's been sat on the most:
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    If I remove the back cushion , the difference between the original leather color and finish and what I'm sitting on today is very apparent:
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    Here are two close-ups of some of the panels I'm most worried about. They have become rough to the touch, feeling almost like tough suede when I run my hand over the couch. Some areas also seem to be thinning... in one photo you can see where a small hole appeared in the leather. I gave it a temporary fix by placing a scrap of leather behind the hole and using leather glue to secure it.
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    It looks like at the very least, I need to introduce my couch to the Leather Doctor Hydrator and Fatliquor. In the past I have used Soft Touch Ram Leather Furniture Conditioner but it does not seem to have been enough!
    I am not concerned about the change in color, but I do want to protect the leather from possible future damage.

    Thanks for sharing your expertise!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
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    5,102

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    >>> Over time, the seating area with the heaviest seat traffic has started to wear in various ways -- each panel of the seat slightly differently. Here is a shot of the whole couch:

    The “wear” is due to friction rubs, and noise is associated to friction rubs. When noise is cut, friction rubs are reduced and this is accomplished with Protector-B+ with a rub-resistant buttery-feel effect as the first defense during routine and periodic care.

    It is typical of aniline leather to have slight difference in color intensity as different areas of the skin may take on dyestuff differently due to tightness of the skin structure. Therefore when comes to redyeing this is a common phenomenon that need to be overcome with “coating” dyestuff using Anilne-76 then with “staining” Aniline-21.


    >>> If I remove the back cushion, the difference between the original leather color and finish and what I'm sitting on today is very apparent:

    Picture also shows that the non-used areas are lighter in appearance and the used areas are ingrained with contaminated soiling including body oil, grease and sweat that appears darker.
    Lighter Appearance - aniline dyestuff is not as UV strong as pigmented color those found in typical auto vehicle thus color faded. Another contribution to the lost of color is the diminishing fatliquor (fat oil and water), and yet another factor is the deteriorating topcoat like AnilineTop-21 or 76.
    Darker Appearance – is normally solved with degreasing it with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system.


    >>> Here are two close-ups of some of the panels I'm most worried about. They have become rough to the touch, feeling almost like tough suede when I run my hand over the couch.

    The “rough to the touch” is the cracking up of the existing topcoat. The existing deteriorating topcoat need to be removed and new topcoat applied with Aniline-21 or 76.


    >>> Some areas also seem to be thinning... in one photo you can see where a small hole appeared in the leather.


    “Thinning” is the result of over-stretching – Rectifying the defects is through Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Impregnator system. This tightening and strengthening of the leather is best done on the reverse suede side to reduce surface build up that may have a darkening effect (a testing is best done prior to application) unless re-dying to a darker shade in part of the restoration process.


    >>> I gave it a temporary fix by placing a scrap of leather behind the hole and using leather glue to secure it.

    Depending on the glue type used may need to be replace if showing signs of deteriorating (never use a solvent based glue that dries up the fatliquor, stiffen and when flex cracks the leather). Recommend product that becomes part of the leather is Bond-3D and using Patch-4S as sub-patch when necessary.


    >>> It looks like at the very least, I need to introduce my couch to the Leather Doctor Hydrator and Fatliquor. In the past I have used Soft Touch Ram Leather Furniture Conditioner but it does not seem to have been enough!


    Fatliquor-5.0 (pH 5.0) is an ionic negative (-ve) charge fatliquor of tannery grade that hydrogen bond with the ionic positive (+ve) charged protein fiber. Hydrator-3.3 (pH 3.3) condition and protonate the “amphoteric” leather protein fiber and strengthen its ionic attraction for a more long lasting hydrogen bonding effect. It is unlike most other stuffing conditioner that stuffs and kills the natural transpiration of the leather for seating comfort.

    Need to understand about “conditioner”, the word by itself is meaningless, it is the adjective that describe the noun that differentiate them, so there are “surface” conditioner and “below-surface” conditioner. “Surface-conditioner” like Protector-B+ is meant to be used on a more frequent routine basis and “below-surface conditioner” like Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 system is used on a longer or periodic care cycle and a must during restorative care cycle.


    >>> I am not concerned about the change in color, but I do want to protect the leather from possible future damage.
    Color is the last resort,


    1st - is to removed the deteriorated and cracking topcoat – Stripper-2.3 process with tools like the Eraser-4 and Razor-60 and 2000grit.
    2nd - is the removing of the surface and penetrated body oil, grease and sweat – Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0 system and pH balance the leather chemistry integrity of the leather to its neutral of (pH 3 to 5) at the same time.
    3rd is to reactivate the dormant existing dyestuff to resurface with Hydrator-3.3 (may save on the dyeing as the appearance will intensified to a degree).
    4th is to replenish original fatliquor (fat, oil and water) for leather softness and strength – Fatliquor-5.0
    5th is to repair the over-stretch leather from the reverse side if possible to reduce darkening appearance to light colored leathers – Impregnator-26.
    6th is to repairs to holes or tears – Bond-3D > Bond-7A system
    7th is to repairs for surface smoothens or rebuilding the skin of the leather on surface worn areas – Adhesor-73.
    8th Topcoat restoration with AnilineTop-21 or 76.

    9th Redyeing is an option and using transparent coating dyestuff Aniline-76 > AnilineTop-21/76 coats over the existing topcoats to satisfaction. However, the darkest color becomes the lighter color choice and when using a transparent dyestuff the color builds up by layers from light to dark and in most situations the final color is usually ends up in the dark range to cover up most of the blemishes that shows through.

    Use this Aniline (A) Leather Problem Solving Guide as reference:

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    Product information:
    The basic products is found in this Kit A6.tc, other mentioned products may be added to this kit from this link:
    http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ers/Categories


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    Leather Doctor Kit A6.tc – Aniline Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit
    Leather Doctor® Kit A6.tc, aniline leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for topcoat repairs from friction wear, accidental scratch, scuff and abrasion to deteriorating greasy sweat stains. These topcoat damages are identified as white, dull or darkening stain from bare body contacts. Accidental whitish damages in most cases are free of soiling and direct AnilineTop-21G application with in between dry sanding rectifies most damages. Repairs to topcoat from daily wears that dulls will require a degreasing to remove penetrated rub-in soiling prior to topcoat application in a sequence process including Degreaser-2.2 follows with Rinse-3.0; Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0 prior to topcoat application. In a greasy and sweaty topcoat damaged areas especially to the headrest and armrest, a deep degreasing is essential follows with Acidifier-2.0 to stabilize the hydrogen bonding between the protein fibers with the other leather constituent like the tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. This deep degreasing process is assisted by leather Eraser-4 in both the wet and dry cleaning process to remove soiling particulates off the leather surface. Hydrator-3.3 helps in the colloidal water movement bringing suspended soiling particulates to resurface through a dwelling and wicking process. Fat and oil is replenished by Fatliquor-5.0 in an emulsion form to penetrate into the leather structure. Once the fat and oil is hydrogen bond with the protein fiber, the water content breaks free leaving a breathing space for natural transpiration. The fat plumps the leather with fullness preventing the leather structure from collapsing during compressing and flexing while the oil lubricates the fiber from sliding smoothly over one another like millions of connecting hinges. Protector-B+ impart a non-stick, rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel helps reduce friction wear to the topcoat and extended a high level of appearance for a longer period of time. When the leather is contaminated with foreign soiling, it is essential to look at topcoat refinishing in a holistic approach. Note that the cleaning and rejuvenating products suffix denotes its pH value in this leather-safe aniline leathers topcoat refinishing system.


    Will walk you through when you have the products ready!

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

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