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Thread: Aniline Wax Pull-up - Pure Aniline or Wax Pull Up

  1. #1
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    Default Aniline Wax Pull-up - Pure Aniline or Wax Pull Up

    Hi,

    I've attached some shots of my love seat. I'm working on a stain on the matching sofa. Both pieces scratch very easily, but I can't rub out the scratches in any way, and it doesn't lighten when stretched, so I'm assuming that it is not a wax pull up but just aniline. Is that identification reasonable? I've got no understandable labels on anything.

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    In my rather vigorous scrubbing of an ancient cat-vomit stain, some wax-like substance pilled off, but I'm not sure if that is ancient wax-effect wax, old topcoat, or 30 years of various leather products being used on the set.

    Thanks.
    Jean

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    >>> Both pieces scratch very easily, but I can't rub out the scratches in any way, and it doesn't lighten when stretched, so I'm assuming that it is not a wax pull up but just aniline. Is that identification reasonable? I've got no understandable labels on anything.

    From pictures, this loveseat leather finishes is positively identified as “Aniline Wax Pull-up”.

    The Leather Problem Solving Guide for Aniline (A.w) Wax Pull-up Finishes Type is used for reference.

    For eliminating and restoring the lightening scuff or scratches products like Protector-D+ or D, Wax Effect-8.6 and AnilineTop-21G are all design for such purposes and are applied accordingly with the sequences of steps (refer to the guide).

    Cat Vomit Stain is classified as Protein-Based type stain, according to the guide the sequence of removal will involve these steps:
    d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 as the stain removal phase, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 as the leather rejuvenating phase, Wax Effect-8.6 as the wax effect replenishing phase and Protector-D+ or D as the rub-resistant protection phase.


    >>> I'm working on a stain on the matching sofa. In my rather vigorous scrubbing of an ancient cat-vomit stain, some wax-like substance pilled off, but I'm not sure if that is ancient wax-effect wax, old topcoat, or 30 years of various leather products being used on the set.


    Like to see which of the attached pictures shows this stain that you are working on?

    In such situation the severity of finishes damages has to be evaluated after stain removal and rectify according under Finish Problem from the Guide.
    Repairs with Adhesor-73 to smoothen the skin may take on a darkening effect and have to be test in a hidden corner prior to actual application. All such repairs becomes blemishes marks or scars, naturally found in this leather types nature versus man-made.



    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com


    Leather Problem Solving Guide for Aniline (A.w) Wax Pull-up Finishes Type
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    Products information relevant kit selected from http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ers/Categories



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    Leather Doctor Kit Aw3 – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Care Kit

    Leather Doctor® Kit Aw3, aniline wax pull-up leather care kit is an innovative leather-safe (pH 3 - 5) system designed for keeping leathers at their highest level of appearance, maintaining its pH chemistry integrity, enhancing their suppleness and prevents premature ageing. Leathers that faced the sun, closed to fireplace and heaters dries out the fat and oil that keeps it supple sooner than the non-heat exposed areas. The diminishing of the fat and oil through evaporation results in the leather fibers being stick closer together that results in stiffness and when flexed during used will lead to cracks. Periodic use of Hydrator-3.3 to plumps the stick together fibers prior to fat and oil replenishing with Fatliquor-5.0 will keep the leather supple and strong. Thus, reduce the premature ageing of the leather against stiffness and cracking. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen during periodic care. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced in preventive care with a rub-resistant Protector-D that enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Periodic cleaning and rinsing with Cleaner-3.8 follows by Rinse-3.0 to the bare body contact areas like headrest and armrest helps reduce greasy soiling build-up. Restorative


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    Leather Doctor Kit Aw5.ps – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Protein Remover Kit

    Leather Doctor Kit Aw5.ps – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Protein Remover Kit Leather Doctor® Kit Aw5.ps, aniline wax pull-up leather protein stain remover kit is designed to remove protein based stains that tends to coagulates. d’Protein-10 is designed to deflocculates coagulating protein stains such as blood, body-discharge, milk, cream, ice cream, egg, meat juices, vomit, perspiration, urine and other protein based stains. Moreover, any staining that comes from a living animal or person will probably need this product in the removing process. Acidifier-2.0 is a leather pH stabilizer that is used to rinse and neutralize to its desired neutral pH of 3 - 5 simultaneously and ensures that the leather retain its healthy squeaky feel with a wet finger testing. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leather and reduces surface tension prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fatliquor-5.0 replenishing rejuvenates the leather structure for softness and suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen. The surface wear of the leather is greatly reduced with a rub-resistant Protector-D+ that enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Note that the mentioned products suffix numbers denotes its pH value in this holistic approach to removing protein based stains from aniline wax pull-up leathers.


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    Leather Doctor Kit Aw6.tc – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leather Topcoat Refinishing Kit

    Leather Doctor® Kit Aw6.tc, aniline wax pull-up leather topcoat refinishing kit is designed for after degreasing in a holistic approach. Most penetrated stains from the head and hands that show a darkening effect have its topcoat probably deteriorated by the oil, grease and sweat. Deteriorated topcoat removed during the degreasing process is refinished with AnilineTop-21G after wax effect rejuvenated. Removing penetrated soiling contamination starts with Degreaser-2.2, a waterbased (pH 2.2) multifunctional degreaser that emulsifies the greasy contamination, controls dye bleeding and charging the protein fiber ionic positive for strengthening the attraction between the ionic negative tanning agent, dyestuff and fatliquor. Deflocculated and suspended soiling is towel extracted, thereafter rinse and pH balanced with Acidifier-2.0 to prevent the leather from reverting to rawhide. When leather feels sticky or slimy it is a sign of leather denaturing, a squeaky feel when wet is a sign of a healthy leather. Hydrator-3.3 relaxes stiff leathers and removes surface tension free from surface blotchiness prior to fat and oil replenishing. Fat and oil is replenished with Fatliquor-5.0 to rejuvenate the leather for the desired suppleness when dry. Wax Effect-8.6 rejuvenates the structural wax pull-up effect and coagulates a cloudy waxy coating on the surface to be heat activated into the characteristic glossy sheen. Protector-D+ enhances a non-stick draggy-feel to shield against sticky soiling, besides healing and concealing lightening scuff and abrasion marks. Note that the mentioned product suffix number denotes its pH value in this holistic leather-safe aniline wax pull-up leathers topcoat refinishing system.

  3. #3
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    From pictures, this loveseat leather finishes is positively identified as “Aniline Wax Pull-up”.

    OK. Thanks.

    Cat Vomit Stain is classified as Protein-Based type stain, according to the guide the sequence of removal will involve these steps:
    d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0 as the stain removal phase, Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 as the leather rejuvenating phase, Wax Effect-8.6 as the wax effect replenishing phase and Protector-D+ or D as the rub-resistant protection phase.


    RIght. I've done d'Protein > Acidifier. I also experimented with Cleaner 3.8 > Rinse 3.0. Then Hydrator > Fatliquor.
    I didn't realize I had Wax Effect, so I'll need to get an order in for the Wax Effect 8.6.
    But, based on initial stain removal, I'm not sure if I should wait to put in that order until I see how this turns out... as don't know if I will want Degreaser 2.2 or Prep 4.4 in my arsenal as well to work on the edges of the original stain, which was treated repeatedly with unknown agents before I got the sofa.
    Like to see which of the attached pictures shows this stain that you are working on?

    It is under wraps just now with the Fatliquor. Here's the initial stain Name:  stain.jpg
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    I'll get a progress shot when the cling wrap comes off tomorrow.

    In such situation the severity of finishes damages has to be evaluated after stain removal and rectify according under Finish Problem from the Guide.

    Of course.

    -Jean

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    Waiting to see how the result turns out!

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    The stain itself seemed to respond well to the dProtein (turned a bit orange and extracted with a towel), but the edges of it are still pretty stubborn. Picture is slightly overexposed/flashed, but you can probably see where we are:

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    As I said, not sure if I should try the degreasing or prep products on the edges of that stain. I could also call it a day on the stain and just work on wax + topcoat. The leather in the area of the stain is much happier now and seems flexible, where the stain itself moved like it had a piece of board underneath it before.

    This is after a 24 hr hydrator dwell followed by a 24 hr fatliquor dwell and 8 hours of air drying.

    -Jean

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    d’Protein-10 always follows immediately with Acidifier-2.0 to rinse and pH balance it.

    Tools for agitation into the pores of the leather surface is to use horsehair Brush-1 to avoid scratching it and leather Eraser-4 helps for better surface traction as well.

    The edging of the stains especially derive from protein tends to coagulate is further removed by help of dental prick or just simple bamboo skewers or toothpick during application and after crispy dry.

    Detail removing is done during d’Protein-10 application with a cotton swab follows by Acidifier-2.0 soaking with help of paper towel that acts as reservoir for the Acidifier-2.0 and leaving there until it dries. This technique also allows any release suspended soiling to be trap by the paper towel during the wicking process then still remaining on the leather surface.

    When crispy dry, remove the tissue paper and work on the stain again, by stretching it to open up the pores and dry detailing it.


    Like to see if there is an improvement to the appearance.


    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 10-31-2013 at 09:34 AM.

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    d’Protein-10 always follows immediately with Acidifier-2.0 to rinse and pH balance it.

    Yes. I immediately followed with Acidifier 2.0.

    Tools for agitation into the pores of the leather surface is to use horsehair Brush-1 to avoid scratching it and leather Eraser-4 helps for better surface traction as well.

    I have not tried the eraser yet, but will plan to get one in my next order. I had worked with the brush and I extracted a bit, gently, with a spoon through a towel on the area and that helped some.

    The edging of the stains especially derive from protein tends to coagulate is further removed by help of dental prick or just simple bamboo skewers or toothpick during application and after crispy dry.

    There's no stain on the surface to lift off with a pick or skewer, if that is how you suggest using those implements. Or are you suggesting that I gently prick some holes in the area of darkest staining?

    Detail removing is done during d’Protein-10 application with a cotton swab follows by Acidifier-2.0 soaking with help of paper towel that acts as reservoir for the Acidifier-2.0 and leaving there until it dries. This technique also allows any release suspended soiling to be trap by the paper towel during the wicking process then still remaining on the leather surface.

    When crispy dry, remove the tissue paper and work on the stain again, by stretching it to open up the pores and dry detailing it.


    OK. I'll try a repeat application of the dProtein -> Acidifier with a longer dwell for the acidifier (I only left that for a few minutes last round, and then tried the Cleaner 3.8 and Rinse 3.0 before an overnight dwell with Hydrator).

    I do wonder if we could be dealing with tannins or oils at this point that might not be helped much by the dProtein.

    Thanks!
    Jean

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    >>> I do wonder if we could be dealing with tannins or oils at this point that might not be helped much by the d’Protein-10.

    Tannin or oil stains does not have an outer ring, it is only the protein stain types that has is type of appearance.
    This stain could possibly be blood and as such the iron contents may have turn from red while fresh to dark when old, and to remove this rust mark will need d’Tarnish-1.3 – see the Guide for blood stain.

    >>> (I only left that for a few minutes last round, and then tried the Cleaner 3.8 and Rinse 3.0 before an overnight dwell with Hydrator-3.3).

    After d’Protein-10 have a good dwell with Acidifier-2.0, thereafter go into Hydrator-3.3 to further flush out suspended contamination. You may take out the Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 in this process).

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    See some info on Hydrator-3.3, especially e) for stain remover. Any discoloration is rectified by d). Effecting hydrating may take up to 72 hours with moisture control and placing paper towel to wick up soiling particulates.


    Leather Doctor® Hydrator-3.3 is a waterbased pH 3.3 leather-safe hydrator. It is a fatliquor preconditioner with multi functional abilities. Surface application is primary to check for even surface tension free of blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing. Structural application will require saturating to an optimum level with moisture oozing out when gently pressed between thumb and fingers.
    The multi functional abilities include:
    a) to check for surface tension for an even appearance free from blotchiness prior to fatliquor replenishing.
    b) To plumps, relaxes and separates crushed, shrunk and stick together fibrils for manipulating away-unwanted creases and wrinkles.
    c) To rectify alkaline overexposure areas by facilitating colloidal water movement to redistribute the leather constituents from surrounding areas.
    d) To activate the dormant dyestuff within the leather structure for color refreshing.
    e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.
    f) To stabilize, pH balance and charge the protein fiber below its iso-electric point (pI) ionic positive to hydrogen bond with the ionic negative fatliquor more effectively. This universal Hydrator-3.3 is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

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    Tannin or oil stains does not have an outer ring, it is only the protein stain types that has is type of appearance.

    Great to know! Thanks for this info.

    This stain could possibly be blood and as such the iron contents may have turn from red while fresh to dark when old, and to remove this rust mark will need d’Tarnish-1.3 – see the Guide for blood stain.

    That seems less likely. But I might need the dTarnish later to clean up the brass tacks on the couch anyway.

    After d’Protein-10 have a good dwell with Acidifier-2.0, thereafter go into Hydrator-3.3 to further flush out suspended contamination. You may take out the Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0 in this process).

    Will do, thanks.

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    OK, I went route 1, and let the acidifier dry with a smooth paper towel.

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    It is better, but the edges of the stain still appear to be deep in the leather and aren't brushing away with dry detailing. Should I repeat the dProtein/acidifer or move on to a hydrator dwell?

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    Please try detailing with a blunt edge bamboo skewers or toothpick when it is crispy dry.

    The edges of the stains will turn whitish.

    Hydrating will return from the whitish appearance.

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    OK I dry detailed until the stain was whitish. But when I hydrated, it just came back again.

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    The detailing process may be repeated if it is still backing up.

    Another tips of completely removing foreign contamination is to use paper towel to become an extension of the leather surface to allow the foreign contamination to wick through and being trap during the hydrating process.

    e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.


    Please show pictures of the progress to better understand the present situation.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    The detailing process may be repeated if it is still backing up.

    Another tips of completely removing foreign contamination is to use paper towel to become an extension of the leather surface to allow the foreign contamination to wick through and being trap during the hydrating process.

    e) To facilitates colloidal water movement within the inter-fibrillary spaces for wicking foreign soiling particulates to resurface.


    Please show pictures of the progress to better understand the present situation.
    Sure, here's another try of dry detailing followed by a hydrator dwell with tissues.

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    It looks to me like I'm just wicking off more of the chair color and not getting any more of the stain edges.

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    Tips:

    >>> Sure, here's another try of dry detailing


    Just detail the edge or darker stain lines will do, leave the center clean area alone (avoid over doing the clean area – the whole idea is to have an even appearance within a panel – thus the outer ring have to go too with redistributing the stains and wicking them off the leather as well by hydrating process).


    >>> followed by a hydrator dwell with tissues.

    It looks like the paper is wet; perhaps the leather is wet as well. In a wet condition situation the hydrating process is incomplete and thus ineffective. The optimum result is to leave the tissue paper until crispy dry and peel off. Points to note is that the paper has to be tight when wet with no air spaces between to achieve best wicking effect. There is two stages in the hydrating process, first is the dwelling with help of plastic covering to control evaporation and this can be left up to 72 hours, second is the lifting off the plastic covering to allows the wicking process to take place until crispy dry, before peeling off.


    >>> It looks to me like I'm just wicking off more of the chair color and not getting any more of the stain edges.


    Suggest you leave it crispy dry and work one more time just the edges, when dry try stretching to open up the pores as well this will help in the detailing. Then proceed with the hydrating process as I have described above to the entire cushion to get rid of any unwanted rings. Please show pictures that you are doing right, otherwise wasted effort.

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    Just detail the edge or darker stain lines will do, leave the center clean area alone (avoid over doing the clean area – the whole idea is to have an even appearance within a panel – thus the outer ring have to go too with redistributing the stains and wicking them off the leather as well by hydrating process).


    Sure. Can you please explain some more about "thus the outer ring have to go too with redistributing the stains and wicking them off the leather as well by hydrating process)"? I'm confused both by your grammar and your plan.

    It looks like the paper is wet; perhaps the leather is wet as well. In a wet condition situation the hydrating process is incomplete and thus ineffective. The optimum result is to leave the tissue paper until crispy dry and peel off. Points to note is that the paper has to be tight when wet with no air spaces between to achieve best wicking effect. There is two stages in the hydrating process, first is the dwelling with help of plastic covering to control evaporation and this can be left up to 72 hours, second is the lifting off the plastic covering to allows the wicking process to take place until crispy dry, before peeling off.

    How do you get paper tight when wet with no air spaces? I read your instructions to use something closer to a tissue than a paper towel, but I see no way to get that really flat when wet. Weights? I can't remove the cushion and I'm having trouble attaching plastic covering (I've been trying to just tuck it in to the couch cushion creases).


    Suggest you leave it crispy dry and work one more time just the edges, when dry try stretching to open up the pores as well this will help in the detailing. Then proceed with the hydrating process as I have described above to the entire cushion to get rid of any unwanted rings. Please show pictures that you are doing right, otherwise wasted effort.


    I hydrated past the last set of rings and they remained. What will make them go away the next time?

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    >>> Sure. Can you please explain some more about "thus the outer ring have to go too with redistributing the stains and wicking them off the leather as well by hydrating process)"? I'm confused both by your grammar and your plan.


    These steps my help explain better. . .


    #1 – Stains to be removed from leather using a novice “reverse transfer” technique developed by Leather Doctor®.
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    #2 – Paper rag or towel is laid over surface stain for example. For removing penetrated rings the leather is first saturated with Hydrator-3.3 prior to placing the paper towel over it for working it out as shown. The use of brushing with Brush-1 will eliminate any air space.
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    #3 – Working out the paper with product application and gentle brushing to stretch out the paper towel (use paper towel that comes with kit for better stretching without tearing).
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    #4 - The paper becomes an extension of the leather surface without air bubbles.
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    #5 – Extend to the edge of the panel if possible to avoid any marks.
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    Last edited by Roger Koh; 11-07-2013 at 11:40 AM.

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    #6 - The drying and wicking process taking place during this time.
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    #7 - The paper shrink as it dries thus clings tighter to the surface of the leather (much desired for reverse transfer effectiveness).
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    #8 - Peeling it when crispy dry reverse transfer the stain neatly.
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    This process may be repeated depending the depth of the stains that need to resurface, as each saturating or flooding of the leather structure can only bring out so much.


    Questions are welcome (Hope you can help me on my grammar by emailing me info@leatherdoctor.com).
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 11-07-2013 at 11:53 AM.

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    >>> I hydrated past the last set of rings and they remained. What will make them go away the next time?



    Since it is an unknown stain the next possibility is to treat it as Tannin Stain according to the Guide – only working on the ring with a cotton swab and feather out with d’Tannin-3.5, thereafter hydrating it again to even out the appearance.

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    Questions are welcome (Hope you can help me on my grammar by emailing me info@leatherdoctor.com).
    Thanks for the great step-by-step pictures of this process.

    Regarding my confusion, I guess I just don't understand rings. Since I was spot cleaning with the dProtein/Acidifier and then spot hydrating, are my rings now stains of lifted dyestuffs? I had assumed that they were just water spots from my spot cleaning and that they would go away once I did a final saturation of the whole cushion and let that evenly dry. But is it your experience that even drying is not enough and that wicking paper towels are required not just to assist with stain removal but to extract whatever causes rings?

    Also, as I've now pretty much stripped the finishes off of the area with the stain, should I be planning, eventually, to add new topcoat in just this section or the whole cushion? I'm just wondering about things to add to my next order.

    Thanks for the help!

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    >>> Regarding my confusion, I guess I just don't understand rings. Since I was spot cleaning with the dProtein/Acidifier and then spot hydrating, are my rings now stains of lifted dyestuffs? I had assumed that they were just water spots from my spot cleaning and that they would go away once I did a final saturation of the whole cushion and let that evenly dry. But is it your experience that even drying is not enough and that wicking paper towels are required not just to assist with stain removal but to extract whatever causes rings?

    Tips:

    1st Details the stain mark of its outer ring as described (good to see the result prior to proceeding to Hydrator-3.3).

    2nd Thereafter removes the outer rings with Hydrator-3.3. Optimum result is by hydrating the entire section with moisture oozing between thumb and fingers. Let it dwell with cling wrapper to control or maintain the level of moisture (otherwise top-up when the paper looks dry) up to 72 hours.

    This outer ring is probably suspending stains from within the leather structure that is fugitive and easier to be removed by the “reverse technique”.



    >>> Also, as I've now pretty much stripped the finishes off of the area with the stain, should I be planning, eventually, to add new topcoat in just this section or the whole cushion? I'm just wondering about things to add to my next order.

    According to the guide under Protein Based Stain: The topcoat is an option (Step number *6). An inspection after Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 will decide.

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    1st Details the stain mark of its outer ring as described (good to see the result prior to proceeding to Hydrator-3.3).
    More dry detailing of stain edges and outer ring(s).
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    2nd Thereafter removes the outer rings with Hydrator-3.3. Optimum result is by hydrating the entire section with moisture oozing between thumb and fingers. Let it dwell with cling wrapper to control or maintain the level of moisture (otherwise top-up when the paper looks dry) up to 72 hours.
    Saturated towels (blue were smoother shop towels)
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    Wrapped for 72 hours
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    Removed wrap and let get crispy dry (could not maintain good contact in all areas, but that doesn't seem to be a problem.
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    Removed towels
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    As far as I can tell, the original dProtein/Acidifier was great on the stain, but now I have a new ring stain the size of half the cushion. I think I'm going to need a lot more hydrator if the method now is just to saturate and wick dry until the ring is gone.

  25. #25
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    The original outline of the stain can be further detail with a blunt bamboo skewers or toothpick.

    The outer lightening and darkening rings will require redistribution to the entire surface of the cushion and foreign contamination wick through the paper towel (use the white paper towel that comes with the kit) with Hydrator-3.3.

    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Roger Koh View Post
    The original outline of the stain can be further detail with a blunt bamboo skewers or toothpick.

    The outer lightening and darkening rings will require redistribution to the entire surface of the cushion and foreign contamination wick through the paper towel (use the white paper towel that comes with the kit) with Hydrator-3.3.
    Thanks Roger. Can you talk a bit more about how this redistributing works? If I saturate the cushion repeatedly with wicking paper towels I should expect more

    1) stain transfer to the towels
    2) dye transfer back to the area of the stain

    ? Or will I remove dye to the towels as well?

  27. #27
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    Also, where can I find more information on what's in your products (MSDS equivalent)? I see you suggest not breathing vapors and such, but I don't know how much I should be wearing a respirator and how much I should just be opening a window.

  28. #28
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    >>> Can you talk a bit more about how this redistributing works?

    In the tannery context it is the immersion “soaking” process – same principle applies for a non-immersion process using Hydrator-3.3 for penetrating, lubricating and suspending soiling particulates, redistributing the leather constituents at the same time.


    >>> If I saturate the cushion repeatedly with wicking paper towels I should expect more


    Only saturating the “leather” thickness with moisture oozing between finger and thumb is sufficient for this non-immersion process – evaporation control and sufficient dwell time facilitate the internal colloidal water movement within the inter-fibriliary spaces.


    >>> 1) stain transfer to the towels.

    Stain transferring to the airtight towel as the colloidal water moves through the paper towel during the wicking or drying process only after the moisture control is lifted.
    The paper towel is left to crispy dry and then peels off, otherwise the stains remains on the leather surface.


    >>> 2) dye transfer back to the area of the stain

    In order for dyestuff transferring back to the stain, there must be sufficient colloidal water movement.
    The protein fiber pH value of the stain area has to be effectively pH balance to ionic positive (+ve).
    Leather protein fiber is “amphoteric” while the dyestuff is non-amphoteric.
    Protonating the protein fibers with Hydrator-3.3 (pH 3.3) and or Acidifier-2.0 (pH 2.0) increases the ionic attraction between the ionic positive (+ve) protein fiber and ionic negative (-ve) dyestuff (fatliquor as well).
    Ionic hydrogen-bonding takes places just like a magnet, unlike poles attracts.


    >>> ? Or will I remove dye to the towels as well?


    Dyestuff that repels (like poles repels between the protein fiber and the dyestuff) becomes fugitive and wicks to the surface as well.




    Roger Koh
    Leather Care Consultant
    www.LeatherDoctor.com
    Last edited by Roger Koh; 11-16-2013 at 10:05 AM.

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by umbrella View Post
    Also, where can I find more information on what's in your products (MSDS equivalent)? I see you suggest not breathing vapors and such, but I don't know how much I should be wearing a respirator and how much I should just be opening a window.


    MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET
    Product Name: Hydrator-3.3
    SECTION 1 Product and Preparation Information


    The original manufacturer or supplier (s) of the specific product (s) supplies the information and opinions contained within this data sheet. The information and specifications are believed to be current and correct to the best of our knowledge. This data does not represent any form of warranty or representations for which Leather Doctor will be held responsible. Since proper use and interpretation of this information is beyond our control, we feel it is the users’ obligation to determine the conditions for the safest and correct use of this product.


    Manufacturer:

    Leather Doctor®
    3008 Maplewood Court
    Coquitlam, BC, V3E 3P3
    Greater Vancouver, Canada.
    Tel: 604 468 2340
    Fax: 604 468 2341


    Emergency Telephone Number: (613) 996 6666 CANUTEC - Canada

    Telephone Number for Information: (604) 468 2340

    Date Prepared: June 1, 2013

    Prepared By: Roger Koh


    Product Usage: Leather, Nubuck and Suede Hydrator


    SECTION 2 Hazardous Ingredients


    This product has not been tested as a whole for health effects on animals or humans. According to the OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration - U.S. Department of Labor) Hazardous Communications Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200) any hazardous ingredients that comprise > 1.0% of the material and any carcinogenic ingredients that comprise > 0.1% must be listed on the MSDS


    Hazardous Ingredient > 1.0%

    Alkylphenol Ethoxylates
    Poly (oxy-1, 2-ethanol)
    ALPHA (Nonylphenol)
    OMEGA - Hydroxy

    Carcinogenic Ingredient > 0.1%

    None


    SECTION 3 Physical / Chemical Characteristics


    pH Value: 3.3
    Physical State: liquid
    Solubility in Water 100%
    Odor & Appearance: Odorless,
    Appearance: Clear Liquid
    Specific Gravity: 1

    Vapor Pressure: Not Available
    Vapor Density: Not Available
    Odor Threshold: Not Available
    Evaporation Rate: Not Available
    Boiling Point: Not Available
    Freezing Point: Not Available




    SECTION 4 Fire and Explosion Hazard Information


    Flash Point: > 265 C.
    Flammable Limits: Not Available
    Extinguishing Media: Use CO2, Foam, Dry Chemicals & Water Spray (Fog).
    Special Fire Fighting Procedures: Water or foam may cause frothing. Use water to cool fire exposed containers.
    If leaking spill has not ignited use water spray to disperse vapors, no unusual or explosive hazards.
    Unusual Fire and Explosion Hazards: Auto-ignition Temperature is > 560F
    Hazardous Polymerization: Will not occur
    Conditions to Avoid: None Known


    SECTION 5 Reactivity / Stability Data


    Stability:
    Stable

    Condition to Avoid:
    None

    Incompatibility (Materials to Avoid):
    None

    Hazardous Decomposition or Byproducts:
    Not Applicable

    Hazardous Polymerization:
    Will Not Occur

    Conditions to Avoid:
    None



    SECTION 6 Health Hazard Data


    Route (s) of Entry:
    Inhalation
    Vapors or mist from spraying may cause mild irritation of nose, throat or nausea.
    Skin
    Brief contact may cause irritation as mild redness and swelling.
    Eyes
    Cause mild irritation, with excess blinking and tears with redness and swelling.
    Ingestion
    Causes nausea or diarrhea.
    Carcinogenicity: None
    NTP? Not Applicable
    IARC Monographs? Not Applicable
    OSHA Regulated? Non-Regulated

    Signs & Symptoms of Exposure:
    Irritation and redness.

    Medical Conditions:
    Generally Aggravated by Exposure:
    Not Known

    Emergency and First Aid Procedures:
    Eyes
    Flush with large amounts of water. Get medical attention.
    Skin
    Wash with soap and water.
    Inhalation
    Get fresh air.
    Ingestion
    Give water and induce vomiting. Seek medical help.



    SECTION 7 Precaution for Safe Handling & Usage.


    Steps to be taken in case Product is Released or Spilled:
    Confine Spill. Absorb it with sand, sawdust or other absorbent materials. Place in Drums for proper disposal.
    Flush any remaining traces with water.
    Waste Disposal Method:
    Contact appropriate State Agencies for the list of proper landfill sites. Not a Federal Hazardous waste.
    Precaution to be taken in Handling and Storing:
    Standard precaution for handling fats, oils and soaps.
    Other Precautions:
    Contains moderate flammable solvents with a flash point of > 80F. Care should be taken in Handling and Storing.


    SECTION 8 Control Measures


    Respiratory Protection (Specify Type):
    None Required

    Ventilation:
    Local Exhaust: Yes
    Mechanical (General): Not Applicable
    Special: Not Applicable
    Other: Not Applicable

    Protective Gloves:
    Rubber Gloves

    Eye Protection:
    Splash Proof Glasses or Goggles

    Other Protective Clothing or Equipment:
    Not Applicable.

    Work / Hygienic Practices:
    Use good industrial hygiene practices
    Protect product from freezing.

    Safe Shipping Information:
    DOT Regulated:
    Shipping Name:
    Hazard Class:
    DOT Labeling:
    General Regulatory Requirements:


    The information herein is given in good faith, but no warranty, expressed or implied is made.
    Law may require the submission of this MSDS but this is not an assertion that this substance is hazardous when used in accordance with proper safety practices and normal handling procedures.

  30. #30
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    Product Name: Fatliquor-5.0™


    SECTION 1 Product and Preparation Information

    The information and opinions contained within this data sheet are supplied by the original manufacturer or supplier (s) of the specific product (s). The information and specifications are believed to be current and correct to the best of our knowledge.
    This data does not represent any form of warranty or representations for which Leather Doctor® System will be held responsible. Since proper use and interpretation of this information is beyond our control, we feel it is the users’ obligation to determine the conditions for the safest and correct use of this product.


    Manufacturer / Supplier:

    Leather Doctor® System
    3008 Maplewood Court
    Coquitlam, Greater Vancouver,
    BC, V3E 3P3, Canada.
    Tel: 604 468 2340
    Info@LeatherDoctor.com

    Transport Emergency Telephone: (613) 996 6666 CANUTEC – Canada

    Telephone Number for Information: (604) 468 2340

    Date Prepared: June 1, 2013

    Prepared By: Roger Koh


    Product Use: Softening all Leathers including Suede & Nubuck.


    SECTION 2 Hazardous Ingredients

    This product has not been tested as a whole for health effects on animals or humans. According to the OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration - U.S. Department of Labor) Hazardous Communications Standard (29 CFR 1910.1200) any hazardous ingredients that comprise > 1.0% of the material and any carcinogenic ingredients that comprise > 0.1% must be listed on the MSDS.


    Hazardous Ingredients > 1.0%
    None

    Carcinogenic Ingredient > 0.1%
    None


    SECTION 3 Hazard Identification


    Hazard Description: Not Applicable
    Information pertaining to particular dangers for man or environment: Not Applicable

    Classification System: NFPA ratings (scale 0-4)
    Health = 0
    Fire =1
    Reactivity = 0

    HMIS ratings (scale 0-4)
    Health = 0
    Fire = 1
    Reactivity = 0



    SECTION 4 First Aid Measures

    General Information: No special measures required.
    After inhalation: Supply fresh air; consult doctor in case of complains.
    After Skin Contact: Generally this product does not irritate the skin.
    After Eye Contact: Rinse open eye for several minutes under running water.
    After Swallowing: If a symptom persists consult doctor.
    Treatment: See above procedures.


    SECTION 5 Fire Fighting Measures

    Suitable Extinguishing Agents: Use fire fighting measures that suit the environment - Water, CO2, Foam.
    Protective Equipment: No special measure required.


    SECTION 6 Accidental Release Measures

    Person-Related Safety Precaution: Not required.
    Measure for Environment Protection: Do not allow product to reach sewage system or any water course.
    Do not allow to enter sewers / surface or ground water.
    Measures for Cleaning / Collecting: Absorb with liquid-binding material
    (sand, diatomite, acid binders, universal binders, sawdust).
    Additional Information: No dangerous substances are released.
    After Swallowing: If symptoms persists consult doctor.


    SECTION 7 Handling and Storage

    Handling:
    Information for Safe Handling: No special measures required.
    Information about protection against explosions and fires: No special measures required.

    Storage:
    Requirements to be met by storerooms and receptacles: No special requirements.
    Requirement about storage in one common storage facilities: Not required.
    Further information about storage conditions: Keep from freezing or overheating.


    SECTION 8 Exposure Controls and Personal Protection

    Additional information about design of technical systems: No further data; see item 7.
    Components with limit values that require monitoring at the workplace: No required.

    Storage:
    Requirements to be met by storerooms and receptacles: No special requirements.
    Requirement about storage in one common storage facilities: Not required.
    Further information about storage conditions: Keep from freezing or overheating.

    Personal Protective Equipment:
    General Protective and Hygienic measures: The usual precautionary measures for handling chemicals should be followed.
    Breathing Equipment: Not Required.
    Protection of Hands: The glove material has to be impermeable.
    Eye Protection: Goggles recommended during refilling.


    SECTION 9 Physical and Chemical Properties

    General Information:
    Form: Emulsion.
    Color: Milky.
    Odor: Characteristic.



    Change in Condition:
    pH Value @ 20*C (68*F): 5.0
    Melting Point: Undetermined.
    Boiling Point: > 315*C (>599*F)
    Flash Point: > 315*C (>599*F)
    Danger of Explosion: Product does not present an explosion hazard.
    Density at 20*C (68*F): ND g/cm3
    Solubility in Water: Soluble
    Organic Solvents: 0%
    Decomposition: No dangerous decomposition products known.


    SECTION 10 Stability and Reactivity

    Thermal Decomposition: No decomposition if used according to specifications.
    Dangerous Reactions: No dangerous reactions known.


    SECTION 11 Toxicological Information

    Acute Toxicity:
    Primary Irritant Effect:
    On the Skin: No Irritant Effect.
    On the Eye: No Irritant Effect.
    Sensitization: No sensitizing Effect known.

    Additional toxicological Information:
    When used and handled according to specifications, the product does not have any harmful effects according to our experience and the information provided to us. This substance is not subject to classification.


    SECTION 12 Ecological Information

    Information about Elimination: Not Applicable
    Other Information: Not Applicable
    Components: Not Determined
    Mobility and Bioaccumulation Potential: Not Determined
    General Notes: Water hazard class 1 (Self-assessment): slightly hazardous for water. Do not al low large quantities of it to reach ground water, water course or sewage system.


    SECTION 13 Disposal Considerations

    Product Recommendation:
    Must not be disposed of together with household garbage. Do not allow product to reach sewage system.
    Small amounts may be diluted with plenty of water and washed away. Dispose of bigger amounts in
    accordance with Local Authority Requirements.

    Un-cleaned Packaging Recommendation:
    Disposal must be made according to official regulations.

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