Aniline (Sauvage) - How to restore my Aniline American Leather Loveseat.

[Questions!]

I have been looking for information on how to restore my aniline American Leather loveseat.* I discovered your forum yesterday and am impressed with your knowledge.* I would like to get some product pricing information, and I hope to place an order.* I have stripped and refinished wood furniture, but never leather.
*
First, I tried to identify the type of leather on my loveseat:
1) I stretched the unexposed area on the back of a cushion.* As a result, the color lightened.* When I warmed it up, the color returned to the original.
2) A drop of water soaks in within a minute or less.* The time is shorter on the tops of the cushions and arms compared to the sides and back of the couch.* I think this indicates that there is a topcoat, but that it has degraded unevenly.
*
I think the type is aniline wax pull-up.* Is it?
The leather is a bit "squeaky" when you sit.* The "matching" couch I have from the same company is soft.* They were both custom, but I ordered them a year apart, so the lot of leather was not the same.* I think perhaps they put a different topcoat as well.* Is it possible to determine whether there is a topcoat and what it is?* And, if I like the soft feel better, is it possible or recommended to remove the top coat?* From some of your posts, it sounds like if you want the best result when doing a redye, it’s best to strip the topcoat.
*
Here’s the loveseat and a sample of the original color:
#1


#2


Lots of issues
1) Cat vomit stains on both seats. – I previously tried cleaning them with lemon juice and cream of tartar - bad idea! - and castile soap. Also used some MacGuire’s Leather product for automobiles. Should I proceed with the normal A.w steps?

#3


#4



2) Stretched leather imprints - The couch was stored with an item on the right seat cushion that stretched the leather in a couple of places. Will the hydrator and fatliquor restore the shape?

#5



...continue

[Questions!]

3) Suede peeking through on tops of backs – Is this severe enough to warrant using the bond/patch or will the impregnator do the trick?

#6



4) Body oils (and coconut oil that I foolishly used to try to even it out!)
#7



5) Drops of blood
#8



. . . continue

[Questions!]

6) Surface scratches

#9


#10


#11



7) Dry and cracked appearance

#12



. . . continue

[Questions!]

8) Faded. Needs to be redyed. I'd like to get a fantastic result. Is it possible without an airbrush?

#13



9) Ink
#14



10) Small dots that might be paint
#15


11) Musty smell from storage

I’ve seen posts that refer to the Aniline - (A.w) Problem Solving Guide. I’m guessing that my loveseat is representative of leather that responds to the steps in that guide, so I would be using those steps.

I think my biggest questions are:
1) Should I strip the entire couch? If so, which products would I need to do this?
2) How do I repair the suede bits?
3) I felt the original finish was too stiff. If I strip it, can I apply a different top coat that will be more supple?
4) Can I do this job without a sprayer? If not, what is the cheapest sprayer I can get that will do a good job?

From your other posts, I think I’ll need the following products, assuming it is a wax pull-up leather. I don’t know the quantity I’d need.
For Restoration:
Degreaser 2.2
Prep 4.4
Cleaner 3.8
Rinse 3.0
Hydrator 3.3
Fatliquor LS 5.5 (For musty smell)
Wax Effect 2.8
Protector D+
Leather brush

For Ink:
Ink Remover 4.4

For Blood
d’Protein 10
d’Tarnish 1.3

For Vomit
Acidifier 2.0

For Fading and Body Oil
Adhesor 73
Aniline Dye ?
Topcoat ?
Leather Eraser

For Mold
d’Mold 3.6

For Stretching and Suede-ing
Impregnator 26

I have larger pictures if you need them. Thank you for taking the time to read this and for your help!

-Rebekah Hill

[Roger Koh]

>>>I have been looking for information on how to restore my aniline American Leather loveseat.* I discovered your forum yesterday and am impressed with your knowledge.* I would like to get some product pricing information, and I hope to place an order.* I have stripped and refinished wood furniture, but never leather.

Thank you, for product pricing please goes to www.LeatherDoctor.com

The procedure for refinishing is almost the same for both wood and leather.
There is no chemistry involved when comes to wood, but leather is all about biochemistry (leather chemist).
Wood is a homogenous material while leather is a composition of protein leather fiber with other leather constituent that transform rawhide into leather.
The basic leather constituents include the tanning agent, fatliquor and dyestuff.
During the preparation stages prior to refinishing, the chemistry balances between the protein amphoteric component and other constituents has to be stabilized or strengthened from reverting the leather to rawhide.
The pH of the preparatory solution has to be kept on the acidic side of the pH scale.
The pH neutral of leather averages at pH 4, solution that has a pH lower than 4 will charge the protein fiber ionic positive (+ve) thus strengthen the ionic negative (-ve) of the other leather constituents.
They behave like magnet “unlike poles attracts”.
Alkaline solutions (pH above 7) when used for specific stain removal like the coagulating protein stain from blood will need to be neutralized with a pH 2.0 rinse.
If alkaline over exposure is left alone it will weaken the chemical bonds between the protein fiber and the tanning agent and leather may become sticky or slimy, a sign of leather denaturing and reverting into rawhide.
Leather becomes stiff as fatliquor breaks bond under alkaline over exposure, leach out, and when flex cracks.
Another sign of alkaline over exposure is dye bleeding, where dyestuff breaks bond and migrates.

So bear in mind that we have to think like a leather chemist while doing a restoration work for leather.
It is really a science and an art.

With the Leather Doctor’s leather-safe system, you simply follow instruction as all the science is built into the sequence of process.

All you need is to have your share of following the steps and putting your art of refinishing wood into the leather.

>>>First, I tried to identify the type of leather on my loveseat:
1) I stretched the unexposed area on the back of a cushion.* As a result, the color lightened.* When I warmed it up, the color returned to the original.
2) A drop of water soaks in within a minute or less.* The time is shorter on the tops of the cushions and arms compared to the sides and back of the couch.
The leather is a bit "squeaky" when you sit.
I think the type is aniline wax pull-up.* Is it?

From your descriptions and pictures, the leather is identified as “Aniline Wax Pull-up”.
We have short of pictures of the original appearance – good to a some good pictures to positive identify it and also determine the original color.

>>>* I think this indicates that there is a topcoat, but that it has degraded unevenly.

All leathers have topcoat in various degrees, except “vachetta” – the unfinished veg-tan leather, popular with Louis Vuitton and Coach bag.
This uneven absorbency has to be balanced up prior to restoration for an even absorbency of fatliquor, dyestuff and wax effect.

>>>* The "matching" couch I have from the same company is soft.* They were both custom, but I ordered them a year apart, so the lot of leather was not the same.* I think perhaps they put a different topcoat as well.* Is it possible to determine whether there is a topcoat and what it is?* And, if I like the soft feel better, is it possible or recommended to remove the top coat?* From some of your posts, it sounds like if you want the best result when doing a redye, it’s best to strip the topcoat.

The leather structure determines the leather “softness” (feel of hand), not the topcoat for aniline wax pull-up. It is the moisture content from the fatliquor and the wax effect that contributes to the leather suppleness. As the fatliquor and the wax effect are volatile, they turn gases and evaporate under heat, thus stiffen the leather. Leather rejuvenating by hydrating to separates the stick together fiber in conjunction with fat, oil and wax replenishing will return the suppleness to the leather. Stripping the existing topcoat will allow equal distribution into the leather structure during rejuvenating for an even suppleness. The replacing topcoat to use is AnilineTop-21G. Texture of the leather thickness determines the leather softness, the surface tactile-feel with finger tips determine if the leather has a draggy, waxy, silky or buttery feel. The texture of the leather is determine by Fatliquor-5.0 and Wax Effect-8.6 while the tactile feel is determine by Protector-B+, D+, W+ or S+. The matching Protection for wax effect is to use Protector-D+ or D without the scent, both have the healing effect to conceal the easily scratch surface and provides a draggy feel.

Roger
www.LeatherDoctor.com

[Roger Koh]

Here’s the loveseat and a sample of the original color:
#1


#2

Reverse the seat cushion and take a close-up pictures of the leather unexposed condition in contrast to the heavily used and faded areas.

Roger
www.LeatherDoctor.com

[Roger Koh]

Lots of issues
1) Cat vomit stains on both seats. – I previously tried cleaning them with lemon juice and cream of tartar - bad idea! - and castile soap. Also used some MacGuire’s Leather product for automobiles. Should I proceed with the normal A.w steps?

#3

Using soap will leave a scum, those we find in our sink and bathtub – bad idea as scum attract soiling.
Cream may leave a darkening effect that spoils the appearance.

Vomit is mostly protein based products and acidic.
Will require a specialty leather alkaline cleaner to break-up the coagulating stains and neutralized with an acidic rinse.
Product used for proten stain removal is d’Protein-10 > Acidifier-2.0

[Roger Koh]

2) Stretched leather imprints - The couch was stored with an item on the right seat cushion that stretched the leather in a couple of places. Will the hydrator and fatliquor restore the shape?

#5

Yes!

The cross section of leather is packed with fibers (suede); they are crushed with uneven tension that results in dented appearance.
Solution:
The entire thickness of the leather need hydrated with control evaporation until the tension ease out, may require up to 72 hours depends on severity.
Products to use is Hydrator-3.3, thereafter Fatliquor-5.0 to restore suppleness thus prevents stiffness that leads to cracks when flex.

[Roger Koh]

6) Surface scratches

#9


#10


#11

Surfaces Scratches:

Mild surface scratches are solved with Protector-D+ or D or Wax Effect-8.6 that also restore diminishes waxes during routine care.

Severe topcoat damages may require AnilineTop-21G.

Abrasion damages that are “sueded” may require Adhesor-73 to restore the smooth skin.

[Roger Koh]

6)


7) Dry and cracked appearance

#12

Dry is the lost of fatliquor and fashion wax effect that diminishes as gases (VOC) volatile organic compound.
Solution to problem: Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Wax Effect-8.6.

Cracked appearance is the result of deteriorating topcoat (AnilineTop-21G that need replenishing).
The preparation work is done during the wet process when the leather becomes stronger and the finishing topcoat becomes weaker.
Depends on severity, a curve or circular razor is used in conjunction with 2000grit sanding and leather eraser.
Note that all sanding is to remove the deteriorated finish and not to the leather itself as the deeper, it goes, the coarser the grain is.

[Roger Koh]

8) Faded. Needs to be redyed. I'd like to get a fantastic result. Is it possible without an airbrush?

#13

The color of Wax Pull-up leather derived from the combination of fatliquor, wax and dyestuff.

As this leather is absorbent, and layers build up colors from “transparent” dyestuff, you want to control the saturation by airbrushing if you do not want streaks.

For a fantastic result – airbrushing recommended with good air pressure to atomize a fine spray for seamless appearance without streaks or drips.

[Roger Koh]

9) Ink
#14

Ink stains for aniline wax pull-up are penetrated (below surface).

Ink stain removal will need penetrating, lubricating and suspending action from the leather-safe Prep-4.4 (pH 4.4).
Thereafter the dispersing action will require Hydrator-3.3.

[Roger Koh]

10) Small dots that might be paint
#15

A safe removal technique for leather without further solvent related surface finishes damages is by stretching the paint under hydration with Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0.

Leather during the rejuvenating process stretches easily that cause the paint to crack and delaminate during stretching to remove the paint.

The last resort is to use Stripper-2.3.

[rebekah.hill]

Here ya go:
I noticed this!

That's the bottom of the seat cushion under the swatch.

[Roger Koh]

11) Musty smell from storage

Musty smell will require d’Mold-3.6 fungicidal treatment before leather rejuvenating.

Leather Doctor d'Mold-3.6

Leather Doctor® d'Mold-3.6 is a waterbased pH 3.6 leather-safe non-phenol fungicide develops to kill mold growth. It is for disinfecting and controlling musty odor from mold activities after decontamination cleaning. This universal fungicide is for all leather types including pigmented, aniline, vachetta, nubuck, suede, hair-on-hide and woolskin.

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ion/Categories

[Roger Koh]

Refer to post #14


If you see the cross section of the leather, this dormant dyestuff may be activated during hydration to resurface.

It is then that you decide how much color you wish to saturate.

Color to choose is from Aniline-21 range, these are staining dyestuff that matches the original, the color is with the leather structure together with the fatliquor and waxes, it is the AnilineTop-21 that enhances or amplifies it.

See color selection from this link:

http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-21/Categories

[Roger Koh]

I’ve seen posts that refer to the Aniline - (A.w) Problem Solving Guide. I’m guessing that my loveseat is representative of leather that responds to the steps in that guide, so I would be using those steps.

I think my biggest questions are:
1) Should I strip the entire couch? If so, which products would I need to do this?
2) How do I repair the suede bits?
3) I felt the original finish was too stiff. If I strip it, can I apply a different top coat that will be more supple?
4) Can I do this job without a sprayer? If not, what is the cheapest sprayer I can get that will do a good job?

>>>I’ve seen posts that refer to the Aniline - (A.w) Problem Solving Guide. I’m guessing that my loveseat is representative of leather that responds to the steps in that guide, so I would be using those steps.

You may use this Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers - Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.w)

Leather-Safe Problem Solving Guide (A.w) – Aniline Wax Pull-up Leathers

>>>I think my biggest questions are:
1) Should I strip the entire couch? If so, which products would I need to do this?
Stripping to the existing topcoat – use Stripper-2.3 or physical removing it.
Stripping of foreign both surface and penetrated contamination – use Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

>>>2) How do I repair the suede bits?
Sueded are repair using Impregnator-26 if the structure is loose or weak (this is a penetrating repairs – thus the name suggest – surface darkening effect may result if overloaded).
Surface sueded Adhesor-73 suffice.

>>>3) I felt the original finish was too stiff. If I strip it, can I apply a different top coat that will be more supple?
Finishes has nothing to do with stiffness, it is the leather structure that need to soften-up (mentioned earlier).

>>>4) Can I do this job without a sprayer? If not, what is the cheapest sprayer I can get that will do a good job?
Without a sprayer, it is difficult to control color saturation (we are working with “transparent” dyestuff different from pigment “opacity”).

Badger S250 is the cheapest you can use, next up is Paasche Single Action.
Paasche is a finer airbrush that gives excellent result.
With enough air supply between 80 to 100psi gives professional results.
We often forget about the air supply - it is essential to drive the airbrush.

[Roger Koh]

From your other posts, I think I’ll need the following products, assuming it is a wax pull-up leather. I don’t know the quantity I’d need.
For Restoration:
Degreaser 2.2
Prep 4.4
Cleaner 3.8
Rinse 3.0
Hydrator 3.3
Fatliquor LS 5.5 (For musty smell)
Wax Effect 2.8
Protector D+
Leather brush

For Ink:
Ink Remover 4.4

For Blood
d’Protein 10
d’Tarnish 1.3

For Vomit
Acidifier 2.0

For Fading and Body Oil
Adhesor 73
Aniline Dye ?
Topcoat ?
Leather Eraser

For Mold
d’Mold 3.6

For Stretching and Suede-ing
Impregnator 26

You may email me the products and quantity you select from the on-line store and I will help if they are sufficient.

Roger
www.LeatherDoctor.com

[Roger Koh]

Here is my product recommendation, in 2 orders covering Phase 1 and 2.

All wet cleaning that involve stains removal and decontamination ends at Hydrating for an inspection prior to softening the leather structure.

We will decide the extent of the structure damages and proceed from there. This will allow us to determine how we shall end the refinishing and the desire color can be achieved.


Phase 1a – Specialty Stain Remover
For Blood
d’Protein-10 - 250ml
Acidifier-2.0 - 250ml
d’Tarnish-1.3 - 30ml

For Vomit
d’Protein-10
Acidifier-2.0

For Ink:
Ink Remover 4.4 – 30ml
Cleaner 3.8 - 250ml
Rinse 3.0

Phase 1b – General Degreasing above and below surface.
Degreaser 2.2 – Quart
Acidifier 2.0 - Quart
Rinse-3.0 - Quart

Phase 1c – Mold Decontamination
d’Mold 3.6 - 2 x 250ml


Phase 1d – Hydrating
Hydrator 3.3 – 2 Quarts

Phase 2 - Fatliquoring
Fatliquor-5.0 – 1 Quart


Phase 3 - Repairs
For Stretching - Impregnator 26 – 60ml
For Suede-ing - Adhesor-73 - 60ml


Phase 4 – Aniline Staining Dye System with Wax Effect
Aniline-21
Wax Effect-8.6
Adhesor 73
AnilineTop-21G
Protector-D+

Or
Phase 4 – Aniline Coating Dye without Wax Effect
Adhesor 73
Aniline-76
AnilineTop-76
Protector-B+

Basic Tools:
Horsehair Brush-1
Leather Eraser-4
Terry Towel
Airbrush – Paasche single action size 1 or equivalent