1967 300SEL Mercedes - Cleaning, Softening, Repairing and Refinishig old Mercedes leather seats

Hi Roger, I'm trying to clean ,soften, repair and re-dye my seats.The back seat has some sun fading at the top and a small tear in the bottom seat along with some discoloration (pics 1,2 and 3)
The front seats have tears at flex points and some bolster wear. I think I need to soften them first before making and repairs as they are stiff and I'm afraid I will do more damage disassembling the seat.(pis 4 5 6 and 7)

Thanks Gary in Port Moody B.C.

#1
Attachment 3309


#2
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#3
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#4
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#5
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The sequence of process is as follows:

Restorative Cleaning:
Prep-7.7 > Clean-3.8 > Rinse-3.0

1. Wet Preparation:
Physical removal of deteriorating finishes with matching sanding grit > Rinse-3.0.

2. Check the health of Leather:
The leather should have a squeaky feel otherwise use Acidifier-2.0 for pH balancing and rinsing especially body contact areas.

3. Check for penetrated body oil, grease and sweat:
Doubtful areas is recommended to work with Degreaser-2.2 > Acidifier-2.0.

The above processes are to remove both above and below surfaces soiling including deteriorating finishes to a healthy squeaky feel.

4. Leather Rejuvenating:
Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 > Hydrator-3.3

5. Repairs
Bond-3D + Patch-4S repairs for rip and split
Impregnator-26 to strengthen over-stretched weak creases

6. Refinishing System
Adhesor-73 > Micro-54 (custom match) + 10% Thickener-48 > MicroTop-54M (or other matching luster)

7. Finishes Protection
Protector-B+

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]


Recommend this starter Kit Sa7.cl with necessary individual add-on

Attachment 3324
Leather Doctor Kit Sa7.cl – Semi-Aniline Leather Color Refinishing Kit
Leather Doctor® Kit Sa7.cl, micro-pigmented leather color refinishing kit is design for a holistic restoration approach to not only the finishes but also rejuvenating the leather for suppleness. Most of these repairs may range from missing finishes to abrading damages into the leather structure. Some expose areas may be contaminated with foreign soiling that includes conditioners, protectors, body oil, grease and sweat or alkaline overexposure from cleaners. A comprehensive repair for a long-term lasting solution will require a holistic approach to deal with both the exposed structure and surface finishes. The practical and functional softness and strength of the leather depends on the health of the structure with average thickness between 0.9 to 1.2mm from stiffness and cracking. The aesthetic aspect of the leather finishes averages 0.02mm (or 20 micron) in thickness for practical compressing and flexing from cracking. A leather-safe restoration system begins by stripping with Stripper-2.3 and rinsing with Rinse-3.0. Degreasing with Degreaser-2.2 follows with Acidifier-2.0. The suffix numbers of these four products denotes it pH value for recharging the protein fiber ionic positive besides the act of decontamination. The leather integrity is revitalizes once the ionic attraction between the positive protein fiber and its negative leather constituents like the tanning agent and fatliquor (fat, oil and water) is initiated. Leather rejuvenating system for softness and strength is accomplishes with Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0. Surface uneven absorption is seals with Adhesor-73 to reduce the need for color over-coating thus increase its flexibility and stretchability from premature cracking. Protector-B+ imparts a non-stick rub-resistant surface with a buttery feel, reduces noises that translate into less friction wear. As the leather surface is well lubricated it reduces compression when comes to heavy body contact thus reduces compressed creases and wrinkles. This kit comes with reduced weight option to save on shipping thus the 250ml concentrate ratio such as acidifier-2.0, Rinse-3.0, Hydrator-3.3 and Fatliquor-5.0 has to be cut or filled up with distilled water prior to use.


Attachment 3325
Leather Doctor Prep-7.7 (Pigmented Leathers)
Leather Doctor® Prep-7.7 is a pH 7.7 waterbased, high viscosity heavy-duty prep cleaner for pigmented leather types. It works by dwell-time allowing its superior penetrating, lubricating and suspending power to do its work prior to towel extraction. Proven technique include “reverse transferring” suspended stain during dwell time through a stretchable absorbent paper towel rather than being reabsorbed by the leather instead.

It is design to remove stain such as:
a) Blue Jean Dye
b) Leather Belt
c) Plastic Ink Print
d) Newsprint,
e) Ballpoint Ink,
f) Stamp Pad Ink
g) Sticky Label Residue,
h) Crayon,
i) Chewing Gum,
j) Silicone Shine
k) Permanent Marker
l) Accumulated Soiling

It is highly recommended that the remaining sticky residue is thereafter remove in conjunction with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 as a holistic leather-safe system.


Attachment 3326
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-3D (30ml)

Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-3D is for leather structure bonding repairs, such as abrasion, cat-scratch, and filling repairs with Stucco-90, Pigment-64, Micro-54, Anline-76 and Aniline-21. This waterbased medium soft polyurethane leather bond will not lift the leather finishes unlike other dry solvent-based glue. Works in conjunction with leather Patch-4S as sub patch and suede fibers as fillers. Excess clean up when dry will require the help of Bond-7A.

Attachment 3327
Leather Doctor Leather Bond-7A (30ml)

Leather Doctor® Leather Bond-7A is a bond smoothening aid and excess clean up after Bond-3D. This is a soft nitrocellulose lacquer emulsion bonding aid to level and remove excess Bond-3D from leather surface safely without the need for sanding.


Attachment 3328
Leather Doctor Impregnator-26

Leather Doctor® Impregnator-26 is design for structural weakness on pigmented and aniline smooth leather types. This is a protein compact resin-blend compound for impregnating worn leather grains and micro cracks. It is to seal, strengthen and leveling out uneven absorption for further coating process. It fills and tightens with good leveling properties that is film forming for improve abrasion resistance. Caution! Avoid darkening effects on all non-pigmented leathers; apply from the reverse suede side instead!

Attachment 3329
Leather Doctor® Leather Patch-4S (6” x 4”)

Leather Doctor® leather Patch-4S is use as a sub-patch during surface skin repair in conjunction with leather Bond-3D. This is 0.4mm thick vegetable tanned full-grain leather.

Thanks for the reply Roger, I read the text and think I understand it. I will contact you Wednesday and order the stuff.

Gary

Hi Roger, I need more prep 7.7 and something to soften the vinyl at the top of the dash.

Thanks, Gary

How is the progress, do you have pictures?

How long was the "reverse transfer" dwelling time to suspending all these years of accumulating soiling?

I will email you for the order.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

How is the progress, do you have pictures?

How long was the "reverse transfer" dwelling time to suspending all these years of accumulating soiling?

I will email you for the order.

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I let it soak all Friday night wrapped in plastic to slow evaporation, I plan to stop by the garage on Sunday to check the progress. The small area I did check looks very clean!

Gary

Here's some pictures of the back seat in the cleaning process. The darkness in the perforated Leather part of the seat is missing pigment , not dirt. It's coming along nicely.

Gary



#1
Attachment 3350


#2
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#3
Attachment 3351

Refer to picture #1

There is a darkening line probably 3 to 6 inches by 1 inches size on the left size.

This should be properly clean off with Clean-3.8 and Rinse-3.0 and disappear when dry.



Picture #2

The partial cleaning result looks good!



Picture #3

The darkening effect I believe is from the Prep-7.7 as in picture #1.

They should be clean with Clean-3.8 follows with Rinse-3.0 to remove the remaining of the Prep-7.7 and disappear when dry.

[ Roger, I will re-clean with 3.8 and 3.0. The dark spot is now almost gone that it had dried. I want to proceed with the seat repairs and re-coloring and will e-mail you for more supplies.

Gary

Thanks,

Like to see Picture #1 and #3 at this cleaning stage.

tips:
Any penetrated stains below surface is best to wick them to the surface with Hydrator-3.3.
Using the stretchable paper towel for "reverse transferring" any foreign contamination is recommended.
Prep-7.7 is also considered as a foreign soiling if left beneath the surface.

A final inspection is recommended before moving into the "leather rejuvenating" phase.

Hi Gary,

How is the progress?

Like you to show us some of the "reverse transfer" technique result working with Prep-7.7

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Hi Gary,

How is the progress?

Like you to show us some of the "reverse transfer" technique result working with Prep-7.7

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I've been too busy at work this week , but will be back at it soon.

Gary

The progress is good, but I need more explanation about the sanding of the finish after cleaning. The reverse transfer working with the 7.7 is fine, but because my seats haven't been cleaned in 40+ years, I find it faster to clean small sections with the brush. There is little in the way of stains, they are just dirty all over. Here is a photo of the headrest. The left side I did with the brush.

[IMG]rear.seat.clip.003[/IMG]

Roger, After spending 4 hours sanding the rear seat back, I wanted to show you a picture to see if I'm ready for the next step of re-Hydration of the Leather.
Please tell me what you think. I can't seem to attach photos here, so I will e-mail you the photo directly and perhaps you will have more luck sending it here.

Regards Gary

Thanks here are the pictures. . .

Posting by clicking the top right picture frame (insert image) and follow through. . .

#1
Attachment 3412


#2
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Looks good, sanding is to removed weak, old and deteriorated finishes without etching into the leather crust or removing the grain.

Wet sanding can continue during the Hydrator-3.3 process, during wet sanding the leather becomes stronger and the finishes becomes weaker. An effective hydrating with control evaporation using cling wrapper can be left to dwell up to 72 hours (optimum level is to squeeze between thumb and finger for a little moisture oozing out and maintaining this level with replenishing if necessary). Any darkening effect experience during the Prep-7.7 would be eliminated during the hydrating period (refer to picture #1 left side darkening effect). Stretchable paper may be place over darkening areas for a reverse transfer of foreign contamination during the dwelling and drying process. During the hydrating period the leather thickness should be saturated and any unwanted creases are worked out crosswise.

Please show some pictures for further tips!


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Roger, here's a picture of the rear seat backrest soaking in Fatliquor and wrapped in plastic. After 2 days I will unwrap it and see if it feels like a baby's bum.





Attachment 3422

Correction!

My post #17 describe Hydrator-3.3 process.

You mention about soaking in Fatliquor-5.0 and under wrapped which is not in practice.
Fatliquor-5.0 is applied at regular interval drying cycle – as the water contents evaporates it is reapplied.

If your picture shows Hydrator-3.3 dwelling in progress instead, note that the leather is not under stress with your duct tape otherwise you will create unnecessary creases and need to be rework with Hydrator-3.3 again. You may remove the duct tape and let the whole plastic sheet just drape over would be a preferred method without any stress to the leather tension.


Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Roger, I did let the 3.3 soak in before I applied the fat liquor. When I applied the fat liquor, I kept adding it until the seat would not absorb any more. I did remove the tape and plastic shortly after taking the picture so I could add more fat liquor. I will drape the plastic over the seat loosely as you suggest.

Gary

Dwelling with plastic wrapping is for evaporation control during Hydrator-3.3 process and not used during Fatliquor-5.0 process.

During the fatliquor replenishing process there is no need for evaporation control, quite the contrary it should be left open so that the moisture contents evaporates for the next application until the leather is saturated or does not absorb anymore.

To remove any surface remnants work over with Hydrator-3.3 until the surface is squeaky, remember that fatliquor is for below surface. This ends the leather rejuvenating system and repairs begin.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Roger, I'm satisfied that the rear seats are hydrated now and would like to move on to the repair and re-dye part of the repair.
Please let me know what products I need next and some step by step info. I have a very small tear in the seat bottom and a larger repair on the front of the armrest.

Gary

We may begin the repair but like to have an inspection if the tear without missing parts able to overlap a bit otherwise the cushion or section need to be compressed to create an overlap prior to the repair. Better you show pictures to give you specific instruction.

Products you will need are Bond-3D and Patch-4S. A pipette plastic makes inserting the Bond-3D between both suede sides easier.

Technique is to bond one side and let it perfectly dry before applying the other side. Remember that this bond is waterbased and will not bond until it is dry. Advantage is, it allows final adjustment for holding the bonding in place. Concept is just like working with fiberglass.

Micro-Pigment color is custom match from Micro-54:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...-54/Categories

Custom matching services:
http://www.leatherdoctor.com/servlet...ing/Categories



Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

I have started the repairs on the rear seat bottoms! The small tear was dealt with by cutting out a small leather patch, coating the backside of the patch and tear with Bond 3D and positioning it under the tear with the help of pic tools. I was unable to support the seat from behind, so I went around the tear and used the holes in the leather to push up the patch in place. I repaired the damaged piping on the seat bottom by making an application tool out of a piece of hose and used it to coat the damaged leather with Leather Stucco 90. I'll wait for it all to dry and sand it smooth.


Gary

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#2
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#3
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#4
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Tips:
Stucco-90 is sandable when dry, easy to work with, however to increase flex strength Bond-3D can be added.
Bond-7A is design to work with Bond-3D when sanding becomes tough.
Stucco-90 + Bond-3D + Micro-54 may be used as the final filling to reduce color buildup in those repair areas.

When working with d’Urine-2.1 on the bottom of the hand rest it is preferable to apply the product from the suede side to ensure fully saturation. When dry the suede side is brush with Suede Brush-3 or Eraser-5 to remove wick-up soiling particulates. Repeat Hydrator-3.3 > Fatliquor-5.0 application and erase or brush off wick up residue during each application. Impregnator-26 application from the suede side is recommended to strengthen up the leather fiber structure before bonding repair recommended.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
www.LeatherDoctor.com
[email protected]

Roger, A member of my Mercedes forum mentioned that he used a product much like Stucco-90 and when he recolored his armrest, the color absorption was uneven between the repair and surrounding leather.
He suggested adding dye to the Stucco-90 before using to achieve a good color match. What is your opinion.

Gary

There are few options when using Stucco-90.


1. When Adhesor-73 is applied to seal off absorption sufficiently either from fillers of any kind or surface wear or scratches prior to color application it will even out the absorption rate thus eliminates different color intensity without need to spot coloring.

2. Bond-3D when added to the Stucco-90 makes the compound less absorbent and able to take more flex in areas that will be subject to stress. Adhesor-73 is still a mandatory process prior to color coating.

3. Micro-54 color, plus Bond-3D, plus Stucco-90 recommended as the last fill will improve the color contrasting transition. Adhesor-73 is still a mandatory process prior to color coating.


Note:
Besides color intensity difference between repairs and surrounding areas, I have seen repairs that develop the common spider web crack too soon and I think the problem is in the flexibility of the filler that uses heat curing. If a repair does not last more than 3 years for practical everyday usage it will be very expensive considering the need to re-repair and all the frustration. This repair is now more than 5 years and still going strong, it was a $2400/- job with a 3 years warranty can’t afford to let it fail within the warranty period – see how it was done - http://www.leathercleaningrestoratio...ow-to-Restore-!

Hi Roger, I had a chance to repair the armrest on the Mercedes. I had removed the leather cover in order to easily reach the torn area from behind. I did not cut down the patch the way you advised, because the leather is so far gone in that area. I used a solid patch around 2"/2" with the corners rounded off..
I placed a weight over the repair once I had all the torn edges lined up. when it dried, I reinstalled the arm rest cover and the repair withstood the strain of stretching it into place, very well.

#1
Attachment 3481


#2
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Gary

Thanks for sharing your progress.
Knowing that this damaged is actually caused by rat urine and has resulted in the leather going brittle and crack easily.
As discussed the urine stain has to be decontaminated follows by leather rejuvenating and leather structure impregnated for added strength prior to bonding repairs.
If the repair can withstand the stretching and is pliable this repair will stay good for life.

Roger Koh
Leather Care Consultant
[email protected]

I think it was mice not rats. I did use your anti urine solution and made sure to rinse it well. I did make sure the leather was hydrated correctly after cleaning and before repairing. I have pushed down on the reassembled arm rest and the repaired area flexed without damage just like the other side of the armrest. On Monday, I will fill in the repair and sand to a correct finish. How are we coming with the dye? Do you need to see the seat again for color matching? please let me know.

Regards, Gary

>>> Do you need to see the seat again for color matching?

Yes, please!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

>>> Do you need to see the seat again for color matching?

Yes, please!

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OK. I have all the stuff from Roger to finish the rear seats. Hopefully, I'll get to it this week. Vacation is over, no more excuses. I will take pictures when I'm done.
Gary

I had a chance to finish the rear seats. Getting the mix correct when shooting the dye onto the leather did take some time, but in the end it all worked well.
Here's some pics

GaryAttachment 3773Attachment 3774Attachment 3775Attachment 3776Attachment 3777

Here's a picture of my rt. front seat before and afterAttachment 3978Attachment 3979

Gary

Thanks Gary,

Please would like to see a close up shot of the after similar distance with the before.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Roger Koh

Thanks Gary,

Please would like to see a close up shot of the after similar distance with the before.

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Here it is Roger;Attachment 3980Attachment 3981

Gary