Louis Vuitton Speedy 35, handle darken from used and another mistreated that went dry and dull but not cracked

“Louis Vuitton vachetta handles that are dark patina”

As the leather dries of its original fatliquor the leather becomes more absorbent; thus body oil, grease and sweat stains deep into this naked leather. Oil and grease darkens leather, only aesthetically; it is the sweat that contains traces of urea that weakens the leather that leads to cracks. When sweat ferments it shift alkaline that’s where the odor derived, in extreme cases. So do not forget about sweats. The only solution to this problem is three folds, first is to fatliquor replenished it so that the fats and oils in the leather acts as a natural repellency. This process will season the leather naturally instead of the very raw biscuit color that left alone will have a greater contrast in color when stains sets in. Second, is the routine neutralizing the sweat from shifting alkaline with an acidic pH 3.0 rinse – using Rinse-3.0. This naked vachetta leather pH neutral is lower than the average chrome-tanned leather of 3 to 5. Acidic solution will lightens this leather and alkaline solution will yellows or browns it, even with tap water that averages pH 7. Third is to protect it against sticky soiling with a natural water repellency with Protection-D+ with a non-slip grip.

"also one handle has had leather honey applied heavily and then it has had its surface scraped off with a white eraser and it has been washed with water. It has gone through a lot . . . Trying use the white eraser on it, then using baby wipes, then using a leather cleaner, I think the pH was not suitable because it darkened horribly, then using leather honey to condition and then trying to do it all over again. . . and now it is dry and dull but not cracked, just dull and not smooth or shiny."

Darkening Effect of Conditioners:
Have to be mindful of any conditioner that has a darkening effect, check their pH value too. Whatever that is soak-into the leather, need to be degreased out of the structure with Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0. Note that the original softening and strengthening of this leather to gives its suppleness is by fatliquor; and the original is to be replenished not with any other conditioners not used by the tannery originally. Also note that the pH value of fatliquor is acidic having a pH value of 5.0; as said acidic lightens and alkaline darkens.

White Eraser:
White eraser looks harmless; but they are abrasive and works worse than fine sandpaper because when wet it’s alkaline that contribute to the browning effect as well. Next is the more you erase the coarser the leather becomes that alter the light reflection turning into fine nubuck.

Water:
Tap water has an average pH value of 7, will still rings and yellows or browns these vachetta leathers. Use an acidic pH 3.0 rinse instead, that will not rings, yellow or browns the leather.

“The other handle is shiny because it was not mistreated but it is just dark from wear and use and handling.”

Part of the shine is due to the grease build-up and the surface is not abraded by the white eraser. In this natural state the degreasing follows with rinsing will return the leather almost to its original state, depending on how severe the condition is prior to degreasing.

“Trying use the white eraser on it, then using baby wipes, then using a leather cleaner, I think the pH was not suitable because it darkened horribly, then using leather honey to condition and then trying to do it all over again.”

Baby Wipes:
Baby wipes are mostly alkaline and will rings, yellow and browns vachetta leathers.

Leather Cleaners:
Most leather cleaners are alkaline, leather-safe cleaners should have a pH value between 3 and 5. Are manufacturers that ignorant? Not necessary so, partly it’s the cost, alkaline is cheaper but acidic is expensive. Just like the bath soap and shampoo we used, the correct pH value should be pH 5.5. The test is when it reaches the eyes of baby; you will hear them screams if alkalinity is used above pH 7.

“I would give one more try at fixing them first but the right way if there is a right way, if not it can't get any worse!”

The correct way to do it is to use a pH 2.0 Degreaser and follows with a pH 3.0 Rinse.
1] Degreaser-2.2 > Rinse-3.0

The next step is to balance the pH further and getting the leather chemistry integrity right.
2] Hydrator-3.3

The above 2 steps is to decontaminated what’s has been absorbed into leather out and they have to be done in similar manner to balance the appearance. These above steps are done in continuous sequence while the leather is damp. Technique would involve film cling wrapping them both degreasing and hydrating deep into the thickness of the leather. This may be done repeatedly as the suspended foreign contamination only way to get out is through the rinsing and the wicking process. When dry it is erase with leather Eraser-4. To balance the surface texture it is to be corrected with fine 2000grit sanding, otherwise the abrade side will still looks dull and the non-abraded side will still look shinier due to surface light reflection. Tanning treatment with d’Tannin-3.5 is to “bleach” in conjunction with the super fine sanding to balance the browning effect.
3] d’Tannin-3.5 > 2000grit Sanding

Inspection is the next step; when appearance is satisfactorily fatliquor-replenishing follows.
4] Fatliquor-5.0

When dry and inspection, protection follows.
5] Protection-D+

“but I don't know where to order your products.”

Products kits and refills are ordered direct from Leather Doctor®; just email your shipping address and pick you kit that fits your problem and we will send you a PayPal invoice.

Here’s the recommended kit

http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...erkoh/V3BT.jpg
Leather Doctor® Kit V3.ns : Vachetta Leather Tannin Removal Kit

I will walk you through with more details when you are ready. . .

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Louis Vuitton Speedy 35, handle darken from used and another mistreated that went dry and dull but not cracked – is there a right way of fixing them?