can this bag be re dyed?

Hi everyone,

I REALLY don't think that I should attempt this project myself, but I am wondering how and/or where to get this bag re dyed? I would like it to be dyed a darker color, like a British Tan color, or even the color of the sofa in the advertisement above (reddish brown color).

Is this possible? how do I find someone to do it professionally?

Also, will the hardware be dyed also?

fyi: I live in central Texas area, but I'll travel to Houston, Dallas or San Antonio if needed.


I've attached a pic of the bag that I 'd like to have re dyed a darker color, is this possible?Attachment 460

I agree to have it done professionally (not impossible if you would like to do it yourself), it’s too detail with mixed of hardware.

No! The hardware will not take up the dyestuff (but need to be protected or clean-off the overspray).

There are professionals here that might offer you the service, for sure I am.


However Refinishing has to fulfill its Purpose as follows that I abide.

1. To produce an uniform aesthetically attractive leather that is pleasing to the customer.

2. To fulfill customer’s desired choice of color, tactile feel (buttery, draggy, silky or waxy) and the leather scent that charms (the scent of leather is more leathery than the leather itself).

3. To rejuvenate leather physical properties with structure suppleness; cleanability and durability of the finished product.

4. To recreate close to the original fashion effect.

5. To return back to its original leather types for value and practical usage.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

I am in the middle of this project of redyeing a very stained leather bag. I am almost finished dyeing the bag to a dk brown/mahogany color, but now I am concerned about which product to use to:

1. seal in the color so that the bag doesn't fade or rub off onto my clothes

2. protect & waterproof , condition, and give a SLIGHT sheen (I don't want that acrylic look that most bags have)

Does anyone have suggestions on what I should use to seal, waterproof, and condition?

btw, the leather was originally very matte, quite soft leather, but with the Fiebings Prof. Oil dye I used, it's a little TOO matte, so I want some sheen.
(I did use the Fiebings DeGlazer before dyeing).

experience leather users PLEASE help!

hey, guess what? I took on this project alone and i had to go to a darker color than originally planned but I used Fiebings Prof. Oil Dye (mahogany) and it's not too bad...some streaking but the guy at Tandy Leather said he really like's it.

Anyway, I am very concerned about the finishing topcoat and fading.

(Tandy leather suggested several things but they told me they were guessing since my bag is such a soft leather and wasn't matte, but wasn't really shiny either)

What do you suggest?:confused:

Topcoat Aniline-79G (gloss) is what you need to protect the aniline dyes from bleeding.

And Leather Scent-B is to have a buttery-feel, non-stick, rub-resistance protection that impart a classic leather scent to the leather.

As shown in this kit.

#1. Aniline - Leather Care Kit A250.pdet
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...herCareKit.jpg
Contents:
Prep-4.4 - 60ml
Degreaser-2.2 - 60ml
Topcoat Aniline-79G -60ml
Cleaner-3.8 - 250ml
Rinse-3.0 - 250ml
Leather Scent-B - 120ml
Hydrator-3.3 - 250ml
Fatliquor-5.0 - 250ml
Leather Eraser-4 - 1pc
Leather Brush-1 - 1pc
3” Poly-Brush® - 1pc
Washable Rags - 5pcs


Aniline leather problem solving guide.
http://i300.photobucket.com/albums/n...lemGuide-1.jpg

Leather Doctor® Topcoat Aniline-79G
It’s a gloss finish for upholstery Aniline leathers.
This is an aqueous fine particular size urethane resin emulsion topcoat.
It’s to protect aniline dyestuff with excellent toughness and flexibility.
Instruction:
1] Apply after Aniline Dye-63; otherwise prep clean - use Prep-4.4 follows with Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] Pad or fine spray without streaks or drips.
3] Non-Stick, Rub-Resistance protection with a classic leather scent - use leather Scent-B (buttery-feel).

Leather Doctor® Leather Scent-B
It’s for Pigmented, Aniline and Nubuck Oil Pull-up leather types.
This is a non-film forming, non-stick rub-resistant protector that enhances a soft natural buttery-feel with a classic leather scent.
It’s for imparting a non-stick breathable barrier essentially to shield the detrimental effects of sticky soiling including the nasty ballpoint ink.
And for helping to release those tenacious dye-transfers stains especially on light colored leathers easily without resorting to unnecessary color refinishing.
Its natural buttery-feel protection increases the leather resistance to wet and dry rubs, thus reduce stretch, scuff and abrasion.
And it reduces friction squeaks that wear the finishes when leather is rubbed against during movement.
Or friction that wears the leather finishes caused by getting in and out of auto.
Note:
To reduce sheen and scent add Buttery Feel-76.
Instruction:
1] Identify, inspect and dry soil removal prior to application.
2] Shake well, mist spray and spread evenly with a foam brush.
3] Or spray and wipe with absorbent towel for quick easy care

Leather Doctor® Aniline Dye-21
It’s for staining absorbent aniline leathers.
This is a new generation aqueous transparent staining aniline dyestuff that is more lively and brilliant than most liquid dyes.
It’s to provide a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes.
Colors available in Black-115, Clear-177, Orange-157, Red-180, Red-Brown-159, Yellow-128, Dark-Brown-124, Rubine-113 and Blue-119.
Instruction:
1] Prep clean - use Prep-4.4 follows by Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] When prep clean using Degreaser-2.2 either rinse with Acidifier-2.0 for bleeding control or with standard Rinse-3.0.
3] Inspection when dry – use leather Eraser-4 to remove wick-up soiling particulates.
4] Shake well before application.
5] Reduce shade - add Clear 177
6] Airbrush to even out the color avoiding streaks or drips.
7] Blow dry in-between coats until desired result is achieved.
8] Leather rejuvenation – use Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
9] Topcoat protection to match Aniline Dye-21 - use Color Fix-99 (natural), Topcoat Aniline-79G (gloss) or Topcoat Aniline-59WM (waxy-matte).

Leather Doctor® Aniline Dye-63
It’s a transparent dyestuff for coating aniline leathers during refinishing; more effectively than the staining Aniline Dye-21.
This is a new generation aqueous transparent coating aniline dyestuff that is more lively and brilliant than most liquid dyes.
It’s to provide a more superior light fastness and fades resistance than most standard liquid dyes.
Colors available in Black-315, Clear-377, Orange-357, Red-380, Red-Brown-359, Yellow-328, Dark-Brown-324, Rubine-313 and Blue-319.
Wet and Dry Preparation:
1] Prep clean - use Prep-4.4 follows by Cleaner-3.8 then Rinse-3.0.
2] To degrease use Degreaser-2.2; follows with Acidifier-2.0 for bleeding control or with the standard Rinse-3.0.
3] Leather rejuvenation – use Hydrator-3.3 follows with Fatliquor-5.0.
4] Inspection when dry – use leather Eraser-4 to remove wick-up soiling particulates.
Instruction:
1] Shake well before application.
2] Reduce shade - add Clear 377.
3] Airbrush for an even appearance; avoiding streaks or drips.
4] Blow dry in-between coats until desired result is achieved.
Topcoat Protection:
1] Use Topcoat Aniline-79G (gloss) or Aniline-53WM (waxy matte)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by NaniDiamond

it's not too bad...some streaking...

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Show us pictures of the streaking, would you?

It is better to correct it now prior to topcoating it.

It is recommended to use a "coating dye" instead of a "staining dye".

A "coating dyestuff" will coats over existing topcoat to provide a more even appearance.

A "staining dyestuff" requires the surface to be evenly absorbent to do so.

That's why you have the streaks problem.


Roger Koh
[email protected]

Streaking may be an indication that the dye is not staining the leather at all.

Try using a wet cotton swab to test out if it will bleed; if so, the entire dyeing work has to removed completely; otherwise it will mess up (dye transfer to) whatever that will come in contact.

You may need to take a look at a reliable aniline refinishing system and start all over again.

Roger Koh
[email protected]

Regarding the streaking, I found out that I should have applied the dye after I'd water dampened my handbag...I tried it on the following coats and it made all the difference in the world!

Used Mr. Clean Magic Eraser for clean dye off hardware...(found that idea on youtube, lol)

here's how it turned out...btw, I didn't go with the aniline dye since i'd already begun my project using oil based dye.

The guy at Tandy told me that the aniline is best for synthetic leather? (i dunno)

anyway, I used 2 coats acrylic resolene, then went over that w/ 2 coats of mink oil (to soften it a little).

I don't really like the plastic feel due to using the resolene, but when i buff, almost none of the dye comes off , so it really did seal.

I wonder if i only needed ONE coat of resolene? hmmm..

here is my finished product:

(some really hot water spilled and cause more streaking, but the another coat of dye & mink oil evened things out enough for me)

Aniline leathers are typical soft to the hand in terms of compressibility, stretchability and flexibility for suppleness; otherwise leather rejuvenating is recommended.

The leather surface tactile-feel should either be silky, waxy, buttery or draggy of choice to match.

Topcoating to protect the aniline dyestuff from bleeding, crocking or rubbing is preferably to match with the aniline finer delicacy as compared to other finishes; using refine topcoat; example an urethane topcoat would be finer than acrylic topcoat.

A natural color fix would be the finest as compare to a waxy matte topcoat or a gloss topcoat.

Using mink oil to soften leather may work; but it has its darkening effect to consider when used on light colored leathers.

It retards leather breathability; and may brown when exposed to sunlight for those more fluid; that goes browner when exposed in sunlight; and becomes gummy when oxidized by air.

So test it out prior to using it.

Fatliquor on the other hand designed for leather does not have such adverse effect on fine leathers.

Mink oil “stuff” the leather pores; may leak out and smear to clothing on contact.

Fatliqor-5.0 is an anionic fatliquor that “hydrogen-bond” with the cationic protein fibers that leaves the inter-fibrillary space void for leather breathability also known as transpiration.

So here are a few tips of what’s best for fine aniline leathers for your next project.

Roger Koh
[email protected]